psulion22

Not to throw a monkey wrench in your design, but how a flex feels can change based on kick point 😬 The first thing I'd do is figure out exactly what you feel your stick does well and what it doesn't. What do you like about your shots (of all types), passes (both giving and receiveng of all kinds), handles, etc. and what don't you like? What do you think you want to improve and what don't you want to lose? You'll be able to get a sense of how each part of the stick affects your game. Then I'd think hard about how you play. What position do you play? What is your best stick attribute? Where do you take most shots from, how far from the net? What type of shot do you take most? Do you make a lot of saucer passes? Do you take a lot of faceoffs? What is the most important and least important stick skill in your game? This will let you figure out what you need most in a stick. Be honest and reasonable with these. Don't expect to get a new stick/curve and all of a sudden have a 100 mph slapshot or Patrick Kane dangles. Also understand that retail sticks and curves have strengths and weaknesses and you'll probably have tradeoffs. You're not going to be able to all of a sudden be able to do everything well. It's best to focus on what you do most and get a stick that will help with those attributes, ie don't get an amped midkick stick because you want the one slapshot a game you take to be harder. And if all else fails, get a Jetspeed Team stick in your flex with a P90TM curve. That would be about as middle of the road as you can get. It's a hybrid (dual) kick point shaft with a blade that is a mix of just about every retail curve. You can find them on Sideline swap for pretty cheap, and it performs pretty well for the price. This way you can fine tune from there.

The Kane is similar to an old Shanahan. It's a flat heel with a mid twist and a little toe curve. You play most of the time with the puck on the heel, but need to move the puck to the toe to shoot (similar to the P28). That's where I struggled most with it. I was using a P10, not the true Kane Pro, so the length may have been part of the problem. But if you don't get the puck onto the toe and get your hands around, it's all muffins with this curve. It doesn't have as much toe beak as the P28, and the square toe makes it hard to roll your wrists on shots and stickhandle vs. the P28 arrowhead. The biggest benefit are saucer passes because of the big flat heel. It's almost hard to not sauce the puck flat. I was putting a little sauce on passes I didn't even want to. Everything was up and spun like a frisbee. It was crazy. Why are you looking to switch to this specific curve?

Look for the thread about the P90TM. The information you're looking for about it is in there. While a P88 is indeed flatter than a P28 or P92, it is still not completely flat. The entire blade is not going to be on the ice at any point. You are correct, it's easier to stickhandle with a P28 or P92 because the more rockered, rounded toe allows for more wrist movement and less interference from the blade. You have to decide what you are looking for. Do you want more consistency and certainty, and are willing to give uo some performance for it? Then go with P88 or P90TM. Do you want higher performance and playability at the cost of some consistency and certainty? Then go with P92 or P28. No curve is going to give you everything perfectly. I will also say that a Bauer P92 is similar to the CCM P29, but not exact. It's a little higher lie, a little more rockered, and a little more open. If those things are what are causing your issues, then maybe try a P29 or clone. Or try a P90 or P90T pro stock that may have a little more rocker to it. The Benn Pro is similar to the P90TM, but a little thinner and slightly more rockered.

I don't think it's either. He's the only on the team wearing that. To me it looks like he's purposely covering over the Bauer logo on the cuff. Maybe some kind of protest against the company? Maybe the "V" stands for Vladimir, as in Putin? Or maybe it's some kind of added slash protection added over the cuffs? It's strange for sure.

Does Hockey Canada not have a coaching development program you can access? If not, I believe anyone can become a member of USA Hockey, even those to the North. Edit: sorry, I just realized the date on this.

I use the Buttendz and I really like the grip and control. I had previously used TackiMac and ButtEndz are less tacky in a good way and firmer. But if all you're looking for is to protect your palms, strecth grip tape works really well for that without the excess cost and install.

Sorry to beat a dead horse here, but I've gone through all the previous threads and haven't gotten a clear answer. I need new player skates. I'm currently in 2S Pro 8.5D and they fit great. Knowing this, I bought a pair of Ultrasonic goalie skates in the same 8.5D (the goalie skates don't have the FIT system) and they have a touch too much width and volume. From the other threads, I gather this is because of the extra wall height Bauer added to the Ultrasonic. My last Bauer scan (before the FIT system) listed me as a Vapor D. I don't have a particularly wide or deep foot. But, I do feel I need a wider skate because I get a pressure point at the base of my pinky toe where the toe box meets the skate. I had Vapor EE skates and the width was fine, I just didn't like the tapered fit profile. So here is my question - for those of you who have used both a 2S Pro and Ultrasonic, What size of each did you have and how did you find the sizes compared? Did you get the Fit2 if you were in a D width?

I found there is a very slight dead area if you are just getting on to an edge, likey due to the 6* needed to travel to engage an edge. Much like what EKB said about just shaving the ice. It took a very minor adjustment to learn to get past that 6* and it hasn't been a problem since my first skate with them.

Though then a lighter runner would glide faster, but sharper edges could be used to counteract the loss of mass for ploughing force. Here’s a very basic article essentially stating that all, and none, of the explanations for the slipperiness of ice are completely accurate. https://www.insidescience.org/news/why-ice-slippery-its-not-simple-question yeah, I don’t disagree with that at all. Even if friction melting is happening, most people are going to see more improvement by reducing weight in other places, mostly their midsections!

Both Bauer and CCM produced a perforated runner for a while. Bauer's had small triangles cut out. CCM used larger scoops. As Buzz pointed out, durability was an issue, especially on the Bauer version. Step Steel has always been considered superior because of the steel they are made from. It's a better quality, more consistent, sharpened better, and held an edge longer. The height and weight aren't as big of a factor.

Yep, even that paper is seemingly using “ice” molecules and “water” molecules interchangeably “Ice friction is thus low due to the high mobility of the water molecules at the slider-on-ice interface at temper- atures close to the ice melting point. This slipperiness can be suppressed by increasing the local contact pressure towards the ice hardness. It is the exceptionally high hardness of ice, close to its melting point, that enables the slipperiness of ice and distinguishes ice from other solids.” If this paper is accurate, then the lower mass of lighter steel runners doesn’t increase gliding due to higher surface melting. But does it lead to decreased contact force and therefore lower friction due to the decreased mass?

We're talking about layers only molecules thick. So yes, hard ice is faster than softer ice, or worse ice that's wet on top. But for moving on ice, the melted water layer creates a hydroplane effect that the blades move over. A little more water and you go faster, too much and then surface tension kicks in and you stick. Here's an article explaining it. https://www.vox.com/science-and-health/2018/2/13/16973886/why-is-ice-slippery

Manufacturers have been trying to shave grams off of the runner weight for decades, just like they've been trying to do to all the equipment. They switched the holders from metal to plastic. Then they added holes to them. Then they added holes to the steel runners. T Blades made a runner that was a smaller piece of metal and a lrger plastic holder. Bauer tried fusing aluminum to the steel. Now they're trying that with carbon fiber. If there was no tangible benefit, skate manufacturers wouldn't have been trying to cut weight essentially since they started making skates. I agree that the redution of even 35% of the weight of a runner, which results in just a few grams, is likely not going to make anyone faster or better when taken as a weight savings. However, there are two reasons I can think of that would actually make a difference and cause an improvement in performance. The first is overall weight distribution and balance. These runners are being included on Bauer's flagship skates. Those skates are incredibly light overall. Changing the distribution of the weight by even a few grams could make a pretty big difference to how the skates feel to the player. Reducing the amount of weight underneath the foot would likely improve the feeling the skater has with the ice. CCM has gone to one piece boots, not just to cut overall weight, but to eliminate the midsole and the weight under the foot as a result. As an example of this, forget the weight of composite vs wood sticks where the difference is huge, but look at how changing just a few grams here or there can result in a composite stick that feels too blade heavy, or not blade heavy enough to give good puck feel. Look at how adding one or two grams of lead tape to a golf clubs changes the swing weight and performance. Second is playing off T Blades design, and goes along with the development of countless methods of reducing drag like blade profiles, FBV, Z Channel, Flare blades, and many others. Skating creates friction between the metal blade and the ice. That friction heats the metal and causes surface melting, that melting is what allows us to glide on the ice. When skates are too sharp, the edges penetrate the surface melt and dig, reducing glide. By reducing the amount of metal in the runner, you also reduce the mass of the blade. Reducing the mass of the blade allows it to heat faster and higher, causing more surface melt, and increasing glide. An increase in glide and a reduction of drag could increase overall speed, manueverability, efficiency, and endurance, far more than the simple reduction in weight of a few grams could. Plus, less metal likely means less rigidity, and more flex on the blade. That flex creates more energy return, acceleration, and stopping efficiency (part of the theory behind Bladetech runners).

This could actually be the solution to the problem. Right now you have two fused pieces that don't truly integrate into each other. If Bauer added posts to the steel portion that ran up into the carbon fiber tabs, it would likely solve the issue of breakage, and maybe even make the runner more sturdy as well. Even simply adding metal reinforcement to the tab portion would probably fix the problem

I'm a step-in girdle guy and have used many. The RBK 9K was the gold standard, and I wore one for a while. But man is it heavy. I recently switched to the Super Tacks and i love it. It's just as protective in most places as the pro level 9K, and even moreso in some, and is about half the weight (or feels like it). I wish it was a little more full step in like the 9K, but it's defintely better than a wrap style. if you want a step in girdle, it's a great option. You can find one on eBay or SLS.

I got you. I’m in your boat. Picking the puck up is a totally useless skill that has no real application in a game and is pointless to try and learn. Or at least that’s what I tell myself because I can’t, for the life of me, figure out how to do it!

Except that he didn't do both. He chose one over the other. And he stopped playing after a short time because it wasn't fun for him anymore. Once he progressed past the beginner stages and into games, he wasn't ever near the puck to make any hockey plays. He got frustrated and quit. So I do agree with you, hockey should be about having fun for most people. But emphasizing skills that are less or not utilized in most situations in favor of important ones is probably not a good way of having fun in the long run.

I knew a guy that was a new player pretty determined to learn how to play. He used to go out to a roller rink every day and work on skills to improve. The problem is he wouldn't work on any skill needed to play hockey. Mostly he'd practice clappers and picking the puck up on his blade. He got really good at both, it was pretty impressive in warm ups. Too bad that once the game started he wasn't ever close enough to the puck to use those skills because he never worked on his skating, stick handling, or giving/receiving passes. He wanted to look cool, and felt that those two skills would accomplish that, while being afraid to fall and be embarrassed. Needless to say, he doesn't play anymore.

That P90TM is an awesome curve. It does a lot of things well, without the negatives that each curve that makes it up brings on its own.

That FT3 Pro is the best stick I've ever used. The hybrid kick point gives you power wherever you put your hand, and with whatever kind of shot you're taking, even off balance. At $159, the FT3 is a great deal, and I think the FT3 Team is probably just as good, but heavier. And it does have a more dampened blade core than a Vapor, which would help you with those passes. The issue for you is going to be that it's grippy.

In case you wanted to find them, the Shanahan was the Bauer P10. Some pros are still using them, including Patrick Kane (though his is an extreme lie 7) and Giroux. You can order P10s through Bauer’s “Pro Custom” service. Though you could order P106 too, I think. I’m pretty sure Base is making a P10 clone too.

I have one of those 1X bags, and I really like it. The backpack straps make it pretty easy to carry, and I really like that it stands up on its own so it takes up a smaller footprint in the room. Yeah the wheels are going to get some chirps, but it’s a solid backpack bag if you don’t want to use them. Rockstar Sports is making a goalie backpack carry bag that is getting rave reviews. It’s not on their website, so you have to contact them. I’m not sure, but they may make a player sized bag either off the shelf or as a custom piece. You may want to shoot them an email to see what they can do.

I'll echo what the others have said and say that softness in the ankle of the skate isn't necessarily a bad thing, or an indicator that the skates need to be replaced. With a composite boot, I'd be more concerned about any delamination or softness in the heel, quarter, and especially outsole. And with a Bauer skate with an Edge holder, I'd be looking for movement from the steel in the holder. I have 2S Pros that are a little softer in the top as they were when I bought them, but like your son I also don't do the top eyelet and prefer a little more flex. I definitely don't think I have lost any performance in them with the softer ankle, in fact I think I'm skating better now. But these skates replaced a pair of MX3s where the outsole had delaminated and the steel was flexing in the holder. I definitely was losing power and performance from that, and the change to the new skates was immediately noticeable.

I have received warranty replacement sticks from Warrior and Bauer in bubble wrap and plastic. So if it’s good enough for them, it’s probably good enough and the easiest way. And as far as the stick bag comment (yes, I realize it was like 4 years ago). I use a stick bag to protect my car, not the sticks. I don’t want tape and wax marks/residue all over the interior of the car.

Steve McKichan, the former (current?) Leafs goalie coach, just did a video about this with this goalie school - Future Pro. He is advocating a depth first approach. One reason is that the shortest path between two points is a straight line, which makes sense and would be the logical reason for that method. Another thing he mentions is that a depth first approach eliminates the short side of the play. If you come directly from the starting point to the new angle establishing depth, it means you are moving along the shooting line from the first spot and completely covering the angle to that spot as you do. You gain an advantage here since you now know that a shot has to go far side. The depth you gain shortens the shooting angle and helps you cover the far side. Using a middle first, which is the same as angle first, approach means that you may be directly along the shooting angle, but you open yourself to short side and across the grain shots, which are tougher to stop as you're moving. So in his method it seems like you're going D->A->S