strosedefence34

A retail Supreme skate is built on an oversized last so a retail D skate actually measures E width A heel width. I don't know if this would completely put me off from buying brand new 1S pro stock skates but it doesn't help that you can't try them on before hand. I can't answer if there are really any fit differences between 1S and 2S Pros. I haven't tried on any of the new Supremes I am still using 190s from the MX3 days. If I were to get new skates though I would start with Supremes.

1254241 is the player code 6 1/2 is length D is width A is heel width T6 I am pretty sure is a size 6 toe cap I am not sure what size toe cap comes on a standard 6.5 skate though.

Has nothing to do with the electricity bill and everything to do with having customers buying skates locally from those stores.

I said Stallion sorry I mean Surgeon. I just looked back to my sale of them. They were the Surgeon 500 the white ones.

I use the Quicklites and second this. Man CCM really messed up by switching things up with the current Jetspeed line. The RBZ line in my opinion was the best line they ever had and kind of wish it would have remained untouched. FWIW I was using the original STX Stallion elbows prior to the Quicklites and I found those to run short.

Thanks for the info. I will probably need the one for the BR100

Bumping an old thread here I am not sure which edge checker the shop has (pretty sure it's a blademaster) but is there really a difference between these two magnetic replacement angles aside from $5? or should I try and match these to the edge checker? http://blademaster.com/web/usa/en/blademaster/251-br1001.html http://blademaster.com/web/usa/en/blademaster/255-br201.html

Here is an older video of Bauer's process. This video shows the foot last in the skate while it is baked.

I find the Isles pro stock in general is hard to come by on sideline swap and eBay. I almost never see their sticks or anything for sale. You might have better luck calling the islanders pro shop at northwell ice I think they handle most of the pro stock sales for the Islanders. Even then you only have Lee, Leddy, and Clutterbuck who wear the nexus line of gloves. Komarov wears the older Bauer 4 rolls. Also I believe CCM and Warrior make a lot of the "team stock" just gloves with generic specs or their most popular specs and ships them out to teams with just the team name on the gloves. I could be wrong about that though.

Not really sure why you quoted me I was mostly just saying for a home user that doesn't know how to sharpen with a manual machine and doesn't have someone to teach them how to do it I think it is a no brainer go with an automatic. Me personally I do know how to sharpen skates and while I have had my skates sharpened on a Sparx I still prefer the finish of a manual sharpener. Thats my personal preference.

While they are both skate sharperners they are two different animals. It really depends on if you know how to use a manual sharpener or if you have someone willing to teach you how to use one vs would you rather just get the thing in the mail do a quick setup and be up and running within an hour or so? Me personally I know how to use a manual sharpener so I'd probably go for the Wissota but that's just me.

I am glad you found a solution. That is just entirely too much work for me. For now while I work at the shop I will stick to the BladeMaster. When I quit I am probably going to buy the BlackStone X whatever for home use because I prefer that to a Sparx. I do think the Sparx is a great product and it has its place in the hockey community it is just not for me based on my tests. Plus I already know how to sharpen with a manual sharpener.

@Leif at the shop I work at we use the Blademaster version of the spinner system. We aren't using the traditional diamond and quill. Not that I think it really makes a difference in establishing a hollow on the finishing wheel.

To back this up I sharpen my own skates at 5/8 ROH on a blademaster double head machine. A friend of mine has a Sparx machine and I asked him if he would sharpen my skates at 5/8 ROH because I was curious to see how it did compared to how I do my skates. We did at least 8 passes if I remember because we did 6 and the skates were slightly out of level and then we put them back in for 2 more passes and I checked them again and they were dead on. When I skated on them for the first time the sharpening didn't have the same amount of bite that I was used to coming off of a manual blade master. It almost felt like I was skating on a sharpening that was a couple of skates old at that moment. It wasn't bad just wasn't great. If I were to do another "test" I would try a 9/16 ROH from Sparx. A factor that could play into this is that he said his ring was more than half way used up. When I sharpen my skates I dress the wheel so it is a fresh start. As the rings get used up since you can't redress them does the consistency stay the same? I don't see how it could but then again I really don't know.

ASU's new helmet design. I am not usually into flashy equipment but I think for ASU it works and I think they have one of the best setups in college hockey. Minnesota is now a CCM school

I don't have an answer to your question. When ever I sharpen any type of black/ carbon steel I always use a piece of leather we have hanging around the shop. I personally don't ever think it really gets all the burrs off and I do think they need to be de-burred with a stone but I won't do that to someones skates (unless they ask me). To be honest though I don't know or remember if I have ever sharpened Step Blacksteel. I know I have done CCM and Bauer. The fact that I feel like I can never get all the burrs off is one of the reasons I will never skate on black steel. I have also had a friend who has skated on Step Blacksteel and regular Step steel and he said he really didn't notice much of a difference. Paul Boyer the EQM for Detroit seems to think the same as I do.

There are ton's of threads on custom skates. If you do some searching you may get some more info. A quick rundown though Bauer and CCM are pretty similar in that you get your feet scanned they make boot recommendations for you. You go and try on those boot recommendations and they build your custom skate off of that recommendation and your 3D foot print out. Both companies recommend you stay within the family they put you in. So if they say you're a Nexus you shouldn't try and ask for a Vapor without at least trying on a retail model and seeing how it fits. That being said though their recommendation may not be the best choice for you either. These are computers you need to go with what fits the best retail wise. While doing the process your fitter will be able to add notes to the order and you'd have some input with those notes as well (for example by pinky toe rubs in the retail skate). Both companies have been making custom skates for a very long time so they know what they are doing. True skates are a little different in the sense they do not have a retail counterpart you can try on to really nail the sizing down. They scan your feet and usually ask you for the size and model of your current skate and build you a skate. You also have a spot where you or your fitter can enter in notes about how you would like your skate built. There is a 100+ page thread on True skates alone. Read through it if you are considering these. If you are considering customs the best advice is figure out which brand you want to go with and try and find a shop/ fitter who has experience doing this. Going to someone who has years of experience fitting people for retail and custom skates will be a much more enjoyable experience than some high school kid making $14 an hour counting down the minutes till their shift is over.

In the post it says "You can adjust length in the order submission but width is not an option as the custom last process shapes the skate to your individual foot (L and R). At any time during this process you want to make additional notes to your foot scan, you can." and that is coming from the Product Manager. I don't think anyone can say for certain you can request a AA heel. The best you could do is in the notes make a comment that you have a very narrow heel. In the past they have made C width retail skates. Like any other custom product you will probably have put a little faith in the process and give them as much info as you can. I would also recommend trying to find a shop that has experience in custom skates. At least with Bauer and CCM both companies have customer facing documentation that say they are making a 3D print out of your foot and building your custom skate off of it.

Have you had the CCM scanner scan your foot by chance to see which family you'd be and size? You really just need to set aside some time and go into Pure and try some on. Hopefully they stock a 12.

If you go with the CCM Total Custom Plus you also have stiffness options and the 80Ks go up to size 14 in the Custom Plus.

Did they mount them without steel in them? Someone else can correct me if I am wrong but I always thought you were suppose to mount holders with steel in them to help prevent the holder from twisting.

This will probably be the closest you will find. https://www.amazon.com/Zonas-Porous-Athletic-Inches-Yards/dp/B00N56V2HG I too do what @stick9 suggested and don't notice it. I always have the clean edge at the top of my knob.

It's not a placebo. Here is a post from Chadd who told me to do it in the first place. Even if it doesn't work for everyone it is a free fix someone can try first before investing in all sorts of gel pads and everything else.

It just spreads the pressure out more evenly. Also it gives you slightly more space (we are talking mm) between the tongue and laces since it sits on top of the boot/ eyelet. I feel like it's hard to explain but it defiantly worked for me.

I would just jump up a level to the S27s. That is a great all around skate for a young kid or a beginner player. Plenty flexible but also stiff enough to provide some support.