Sniper9

And ls2s were one of my all time favorites!

The liner and tongue are completely diff. But from esthetics stand point I'd get the ft6 based on the fact I think the asv are horrendous looking. They had a good thin going with tht as3 and made the asv looks ridiculous. Looks like robot skates. And don't get me started on the camo

So I got around to making my templates and putting on one side to see how they look. Here's a pic on my cat pros. I just just the kydex as a practice set. My next ones will definitely be the cf weave holstex which will look much better and make it look seamless and not noticeable at all. It actually took me longer than I thought. Cutting the kydex with my Dremel was quite messy with the plastic dust. In the future I may heat up the kydex and cut it with an olds which seemed to have worked quite well and like a hot knife in butter when I was doing some minor adjustments after the initial cut. I weighed the pieces and it adds about 60 grams per skate. Well see if I notice it skating. I used a heat gun and not the oven as I knew I wasn't going to be able to mold it in one shot bc of all the curves and the fact the kydex cools and gets stuff pretty fast. Was a bit tedious spot heat gunning and forming but oh well. I'll finish the other side and other skate tomorrow. VID-20230514-WA0003.mp4

Nice tongues. They look very similar to the true felt ones. How much did Bauer charge u

Spray it out on a cup then use a paint brush. You can also use leather dye or acrylic/oil based paint pens.

I just ordered the holstex sheets as I like the carbon fiber look. Too bad Amazon Canada doesn't have the kydex carbon fiber pattern or holstex. Ended up ordering from a Canadian site and shipping was almost as much as the item. Just under $50 for 12*48 holstex vs $23 shipped for kydex on Amazon. Oh well. Still way cheaper than getting it done at a shop. Btw, what bit should I use with my Dremel when cutting out the pattern. Just their general cutting wheel bit? Holstex looks pretty damn good especially to match the carbon weaves on true skates https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr6q_veujba/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Damn you actually drilled the holes eh... You coudkve removed the attachment system off the ccm tongues and sewed those on...

Well, the problem is, the staff shouldn't assume the customer knows what 80% of normal tightness is. Some ppls normal tightness is cranking it and others normal tightness is less. The fact is the staff should always do the tightening and pull outwards. Anyways, it's totally up to you what you want to do.

Well if it's covered by Bauer's warranty they don't lose anything. But knowing Bauer or even any skate company they probably won't accept blame for improper baking.

I would've asked for a replacement... Like you said, if it goes a mth after warranty you're effed

From what I heard it's a spring and it won't be a dial.

Personally if you were to swap tongues, id cut the hyperlite tongue leaving about an inch for a "tab". Id sew Velcro on it and now you'll be able to swap any tongue you want in and out as long as you also stitch some Velcro on the new tongue.

Ya I was going to bring this up as well. Definitely saves re eyelet and gets the skates snugger than you'll ever be able to with the laces alone.

If they were only in the oven for three mins then they were def over tightened and or tightened by pulling the laces UP vs pulling them OUT TO THE SIDE. The facing is definitely stretches a bit but only time will tell whether it'll get worse. You should only tighten the laces at 75%, then use your hands to massage and mold the boot around your foot. Who tied the skates, you or staff? If staff did the entire heat moulding process then that's good because you can blame them 100%. If you did it then it'll be harder to blame them. But at the same time them being the "experts" they should be advising you to not tie too tight and how to tie them properly. If it were me I would return them for a new pair since it would bother the hell out of me having brand new $1000 skates looking like that off the bat.

New trigger release on the xs holders though...

I don't know why people even pay mrsp on a top tier stick

Aside from durability and to some degree, weight, I think most of us agree the technology from one year to the next isn't going to be noticeable. With weight were at the point where if it gets lighter it's not better. 370-400 grams seems to be a very good sweet spot for stick weight. Some may even prefer heavier. Sigmatex, sigmatex 2... I don't buy the marketing. Is it a "better" material. Sure, if you believe the marketing. Will you see the benefits on the ice? Who really knows. I get companies need to make more models and make "changes" as they need to make money. That's how it goes. With cars, clothing, etc. But every year... Come on. It's also obvious that they are doing it so they only need to make a limited amount of one model so the product actually gets mostly sold out prior to the new model. There was a time where you could get a good selection of previous model sticks at a huge discount for months to a year after the new release bc the factories had to make 2 years worth of sticks vs 1. The ft3 pro was supposed to be the least durable of tht jetspeeds and I've had both of mine since they were released. Blade is still stiff and only cosmetic chips and cuts.

These companies releasing new stuff so often has made me totally lose interest lol. I know protective comes out every two years which it's been this way for a while, but the annual stick releases are too much.

That's fair. And the fact that step and tydan were Bauer's biggest threats.

Maybe, but byonics multi fit came out last year or even the year before. And even before that byonic and baldetech still offered edge steel when tydan and step were told to stop. So there must be something with bladetech and byonics design that worked around the patent.

There must be a way around the patent. Byonic did it first with the multi fit steel. Heck byonic and bladetech are able to avoid patent issues just by changing the shape of the part of the steel that's insignificant

Take it from someone who's strayed away from trues more than once and just ended back in trues. If they work for you and you're just curious, fight the urge and stick with ur trues. Maybe try something else when your trues are toast but don't spend money on another pair of skates when you don't need new skates just cuz.

That's too bad. Solid steel.

I was going to ask this too. If a certain skate works. Just stick with it.

What do you mean retail like big box stores? I ordered mine online and got it within a week. Profiled and sharpened. If you're one that is worried about steel breaking then you'd have to off the bat to begin with. Keep the stock steel as a backup so you're not steelless for 1-2 weeks tops. And realistically the chances of quality snapping is super rare.