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Sniper9
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Everything posted by Sniper9
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I personally like the original speed plates better. I like how they are very rigid and I like the stiff feel of the arch support. The SP 2.0 is you flexible, IMO, and actually adds a bit more volume than the original.
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No they didn't. Tbh the guy that moulded them didn't seem to know what he was doing regarding trues skates. He did them as if they were regular retails skates. The guy that did my scan wasn't in and he's the head true /vh guy. The lhs I went to has done the most vh/true skates in the west coast, that's why I went to them, but unfortunately got someone who didn't really know how to do the moulding. I knew right away it wasn't going to fit bc the skates were barely warm vs hot. I don't think the tensor and wrap technique should be done all the time but I would suggest it for ppl with skinny legs/ankles like myself. It definitely should be something to be considered after a sub satisfactory first bake. Good thing these skates are easy to do yourself. I put them five mins on each side with my convection oven and it was nice and toasty and super pliable. Did one skate at a time to be sure and let it cool down for a full 15 mins on my feet.
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Just did my final bake and tweaking. I knew of the tensor technique but never really tried it. Then I saw some videos and ig stories where stretch wrap was used and was intrigued bc the stretch wrap seems like it would lock things in more. So I gave it a shot and wow. Such a noticeable difference in everything being locked in and that much more snug. After, I moulded my speedplates (still a way bigger fan of the SP 1.0 over there 2.0) and am all set. Shouldn't need any additional tweaking at this point. Just thought I'd share, especially for those who feel their skates could be locked in more.
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Small holes drilled into skate toe cap?
Sniper9 replied to VegasHockey's topic in Ice Hockey Equipment
Probably I don't follow much inline anymore but all of them should imo. Only makes sense. -
You have lots of options in Vancouver for leagues and pick up!! You should sign up for hockey community if you already aren't on it. It's an app or website.
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Small holes drilled into skate toe cap?
Sniper9 replied to VegasHockey's topic in Ice Hockey Equipment
Def a necessity for roller hockey. It gets super stuffy. Even the true inline boots have vents on the toecaps. -
I actually would prefer the nylon. Probably holds rivets better too. Technically composite just means a mix of materials doesn't it? I think in the hockey industry we just use it synonymously with carbon.
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And because of this I think a lot of people complain about lack of heel lock when this happens. Even for me I was wondering but it all makes sense when you think about how you're scanned and how the skates are moulded. When standing my toes brush up against the cap just s but more than feathering which I thought would be an issue but once I'm in the skating stance I feel nothing at all and the heel is sucked right in and locked.
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Anyone else find that because the heel pocket on the skates are deeper than other brands (probably due to the scan being done in a lunge like position) that while walking it doesn't feel like the heel is as cupped completely, but when skating or even in a slight lunge it locks in? Just something I noticed with both pairs I've had. Not sure if this needs to be tweaked or if it's designed this way as the scan is done with ur feet/ankle in the knee bend position for optimal biomechanics when skating.
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Some updated pics. I ended up rebaking them in the oven at home since my lhs didn't have them nearly hot enough... Pretty sure they had them in the oven no more than five mins. Anyways, I also put my speed plates in and they are good to go. Fit is perfect. No issues with the heel lock and arch on the right skate like I had with my first pair so I guess it was due to my poor lunge stance in my first pair. Overall pretty happy with how the SB 4.0s turned out as they look pretty clean Imo. As for the tab I ended up just using epoxy to adhere the velcro tab directly onto the underside of the toe box. Doesn't looks like it will loosen as it's really bonded on there.
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The tab that's part of the toe cap sheared off. Whoever stitched it put too many holes in it and basically made the tab perforated and it ripped off like a cheque off a chequebook. I'm assuming they will use another piece of plastic and cement it on the under side or the toe box to re create the tab... And then see the tab back on the velcro strip.
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Did u just glue the tab that broke off or the tab AND the strip of Velcro on to the under side of the inside of the toe box
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Got a reply from true. They said they would be cementing the tab back on and restitching. So I might as well try it myself first and if whatever I try doesn't hold up, I'll send it in within the six mth warranty. ... For now I've put some industrial Velcro on the tab and in the toe box to see if it is sufficient. If not I'll see if my lhs has the Nash hockey repair glue.
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I've emailed both true and will be stopping by the lhs tomorrow. Do you by any chance know what the shoe repair place did to fix it? Obviously I rather have it fixed locally or even by me with epoxy or glue than to send it out just to have true do the same ....
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It's a shame the whole skate has to be remade over something so small...
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Picked up my skates. The good and the REALLY BAD. Overall skates looked good. And fit good. Length was perfect. No issues with fit or cosmetic stuff off the bat. I get home adust the tongues and THIS.... I think I'm going to cry 😭. I hope they can just swap the toe cap and not have to remake the whole skate...
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The quick change isn't even a deciding factor for me since my all time favourite holder is the tuuk ls2. I ended up sourcing SB 4.0s as I like bolt systems best for holders. I haven't had issues with the sb 4.0s on my as1 yet. I make sure I check that they are tight every few skates. I'm a 263. I could've gotten them for quite a bit cheaper on sideline but I would have had to wait at least a week for them to get here and my skates have already arrived at my fitter. Need to drop the holders off tomorrow.
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Order has been shipped to my lhs. Have a decision to make about which holders I want since the SB 4.0 aren't in stock and are on back order for them until July. 1) find it elsewhere and they will mount for free. This would mean possibly getting online and waiting for shipping but would save me money as I can re use my blacksteel. 2) get the xs holder. Means more money spent on steel and my blacksteel would be collecting dust if I can't sell. 3) mount my ls2 holders I have that are brand new. Same as 2) but also the thought of drilling access bolts on a brand new boot makes me cringe. 4) keep the true holder. Would have to wait 2-3 mths for blacksteel for this holder/ if anything happened to this holder it wouldn't be a quick turnaround to replace since it's not carried in stock by many shops locally. I should double check to see my fitter does have it though.
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I tried to Google the codes but I the numbers don't say what model it is (from what I've searched). Unless I'm just a total noon. Does CCM dress sticks or are their pro stocks what you see is what you get? I know it's a ribcor bc of the ribs but not sure if it's the exact model as the skin. http://imgur.com/gallery/Ntb7SPR
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Seeing that's all the chipped areas are where the rivets were, are you sure the damage wasn't from when you remover them from your skates? I mean, those areas would be hard to even notice with the rivets in and mounted on your skates.... The rest of the holders seem to be in good condition.
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Confused about the first part of your post. So you do or don't want Bauer doing a heat mould off your foot last?
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Probably won't know unless you re did the scan and it comes back fine. 6 mths is a long time to tinker around. Since the warranty period has passed, I question whether they will even honour the remake.... There's only so much you can tinker with the heel itself since it's pretty solid. You can adjust the width of the heel but not the height so if that's part of the issue you may be out of luck. Also, how is the arch? My right skate wasn't as dialed in as the left and the one thing that worked really well in locking in the heel and improving overall slippage inside the boot was altering the arch that was initially too flat. Once I increased the arch to suit my feet it felt much better. I also used a heat gun around the ankle area and just below where it's carbon fiber and squeezed the boot with my hands to make it more narrow. Once it cooled I put it on and it felt too narrow but id then heat gun the area again just enough so that the area softened just enough to relieve the tightness and that ended up making the right skate locked in. Should you have to do this for a custom slate? No. But I'm just giving you some ideas and showing you how customizable the skates are. Areas like the arch and below the ankle require more heating and patience as it's really hard carbon fiber.
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How old are your skates? Get them to remake. The right
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I've owned true and CCM within the last couple of years. I haven't owned Bauer's since my one100s about 8 years ago so I can't comment on them. The trues are by far more durable than the ccm As1s. The as1s are nice skates but they aren't worth the price point Imo. I play about once a week and in three mths the ccms show way more wear than my trues did in 1.5 years. But do your own research and at the end of the day the best fit is really all that matters.
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What was used to remove the logos on the holder?
