Sniper9

That's a good question. Could be preference as some ppl like more wrap and some less... Also, I always wondered why we had to choose which line if it was total custom. If it's completely custom, couldn't you choose any model regardless of the retail "fit" as itll be made for your foot but just a diff paint job and materials.

https://blogs.sparxhockey.com/stop-the-clicking-fix-your-loose-steel-with-this-hockey-hack

With too end skates that are completely thermoformable, you don't need to crank on the laces either. With the as1s I find I tie them just as tight ( which is just enough to remove the slack / a touch tighter). As for waxed laces I always used them with my trues but that's mainly bc I like the thinner look of waxed laces. So just for esthetics.

It doesn't look like those insoles fit you length wise... When I have me heel all the way back my toes literally line up to the edge. Looks like yours falls about a cm short.

The arch looks really high....

Is that from the slot widening? Too much weight during the bake/mould process?

Why don't you just use the stock footbeds or superfeet.. cutting out the arch area will significantly change the fit of the footbeds and pretty much make it trash, Imo. Personally I like the feeling of my arch being supported but for me it doesn't cause pain. Also why are you using your fingers?

If you're going to use shims which requires removing rivets etc, I would just swap the holders to something you're used to... Just another option. But it does suck having a set of holders and steel that is just collecting dust. The true holders aren't easy to sell though, unless you more or less give them away.

I never felt more on my toes with the trues. I went from the one100 to trues both profiled to a quad zero. No issues.

For me if I went total customs route I would get added comfort liner and larger toe cap. If it happens to be a touch too large I don't have a problem adding 1-2mm of foam to decrease the negative space. Personally, I rather add a bit of foam which would add comfort than try to punch or stretch an area in the toe box junction. I actually did spot heat the junction with my skates and created more room for my pinky however it didn't work that great because the actual toe cap an clip was extremely hard to modify. The carbon right where it meets the toecap wasn't the problem as that heats up well and is extremely mouldable. What ends up happening is that the carbon and toe cap don't expand at the same rate creating even more fit issues and more discomfort bc the plastic toe cap clip/rivet ends up sticking out even more bc or the discrepancy. Not sure if that makes sense but that's what I experienced. What ended up working ok and what I settled with was adding the liner on that area. Putting the skate on and tied it up. Spot heated the area with a heat gun and stood on the skate to add weight and also used my hands to push down in that area. Nothing too crazy but enough to accommodate the added liner without it making my foot feel like it's squished.

At least you don't get PM's. Unless you do... Lol.

This is me with my as1s... I had to put Eva foam there myself to remove that plastic ridge feeling on my left skate (pinky). It's more prevalent on my left because my left foot is bigger than my right. It's an issue I hope CCM addresses in the future or with the ft2s. I wonder if this issue is prevalent with the ft1. Have comfort lining on the forefoot is an option for total customs along with increasing the toe box so why don't you go that route if you do another order?

Pretty sure the ft2 will also have the 90 day satisfaction guarantee.. so just try them.

The tongues being too far down is a common issue I see where people aren't pulling the tongues up after putting the skates on. I see so many pics of this online. Of people or even lhs watched the videos produced by true and svh, all these things are addressed as well as little fine tuning techniques. If you need to rebake hour entire skate bc of overall fit, do that first, and try the tissue technique in the heel and see how it goes. The CCM Orthomove insoles are garbage I'm. Worst feeling aftermarket insoles that I've tried. Personally, even with the trues being a custom skate, I find the best insoles I've tried in them and with other skates are the speed plates. Using SP will also possibly prevent you from having to fiddle with the skates arch as the SP will fill in any negative space you may have without you having to alter the actual shape of the boot (unless you want to).

Those areas are very solid. You aren't pushing the carbon but more the lining. From my experience to get the lower part of the boot to change shape ( arch, heel), a heat gun is the only way to spot mould it. Baking the skates as a whole isn't going to allow you to Target the certain areas well enough nor is the heat high enough. Personally I'd use a heat gun especially if you need to redo the tissue technique more than once. Seems like waste to have to rebake the whole skate for a couple of small areas. Blisters are from friction. I'm not a fan of the stock insoles. You can also trim the red insoles arch areas to see if that would work. Your heel issue I would try the tissue technique but with a heat gun. Personally, Ive had great success dialing in my skates with the heat gun where baking in general wasn't cutting it.

I wore a small in the one95 and they were fine and I had to cinch those near max too. In the jetspeeds I'm pretty sure I'd wear a medium but that's bc they are probably the tightest fitting pants available right now. For warrior I am going to try a small since the medium feel ok but I have to cinch the waist max as well.

Generally you can purchase accessories from them via email. Tongues etc. Or go through the shop u got scanned. It's a provincial holiday in Canada so likely won't get a reply until later this week or tomorrow.

The one inch extension on most retail pants isn't sufficient if you get a medium? You look at pro players and it varies a lot from player to player regarding the gap between the knee cap and the bottom of the pants. Some have it overlap. Some meet each other and some even have a gap. I personally would get a size where I didn't have to cinch up the pants all the way. Bc that means there's a lot of excess room everywhere as well, like in the leg holes etc.

I'd like to know too. The pro stocks have the oval which looks the same as the as1. I probably would've gotten the first gen super tacks at clearance if it wasn't for the coffin vent and yellow liner.

You're the exact same specs as me lol. But I find being a medium is hit or miss as I think the s in warrior would fit better. As for the jetspeeds my buddy wears small for his pants and he said the ft1 were even tighter than his 1x. So I think I would be a medium in the jetspeed like but others probably would prefer a small.

Are you wearing the same size with jetspeed? I wore a small in Bauer one95. Got a medium int he warrior qredge bc I was within the sizing chart for the medium on the lower end... Height wise I'll always be a medium but my waist is a 32. I find a small fits better since I like it a bit snugger.

Sorry, my skates are in my storage room and I honestly don't want to go out of my way to do that.

The true I lace up to the top and even tightness throughout. The as1 I can't lace tight on the top eyelet. It has to be fairly relaxed or I have no flexion so the as1 seems to be higher for sure but I haven't measured. What seems to work is just regular tension throughout until the top where I'll bend forward to where I think my stride bend is and tie it tight on that position. This way it gives me decent flexion.

They're ice skates. They will be subject to many more gashes, cuts, puck marks etc. It's what happens. I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

Do they both have the same profile? Generally I find I can get away with a lower hollow with black steel bc it has a bit better bite and edge retention. I usually go 1/2" roh but with blacksteel I can use 9/16" roh.