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Sniper9
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Everything posted by Sniper9
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From what I know the read towers are supposed to be as far back as possible to the heel.ofbthr skate... Wouldn't that position be the same regardless of how long the holders are? Wouldn't the rear tower always be pretty much int he same place and the length between the rear and front towers change, thus only changing where the front tower is mounted? Unless the SB holders and tuuk holders have a diff balance point, and even if the holes line up, the SB holders would be positioned all the way back vs tuuks not being all the way back. I always noticed the tuuk holders (even on Bauer boots) weren't as flush with the edge of the heel vs CCM/sb setups. Both skates with holders meant for it's size. You can see the tuuks don't go all the way to the edge of the heel.
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CCM holders seem to be longer in terms of their mount's size Their steel/runner length may be the same but their 263 holders seem cover off more length vs tuuks in 263. Can someone confirm this? My 263 SB holders on my size 7 skates basically have no room at the heel or toe, so putting 272 holders would make the holders stick out at the front. Whereas on my size7 Bauer's there was still some room. @Nicholas G can u dm the shop in Vancouver. I want to avoid this place since I live in Vancouver.
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Personally don't think it would be that hard. Email them. They do all kinds of repairs etc after the fact. The only thing that would be an issue at this point is the cost.
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I don't know why CCM just doesn't use their brass eyelets on all the holes. The edge of one eyelet has a small piece that crumbled off. And I'm pretty sure it came from factory that way since it had no other damage or dents. Even after a heat mold the stamped eyelets by the forefoot have some space between it and the facing bc of how the facing curved down and wrapped my foot from the bake. I don't think it'll cause me issues bc I don't tie my skates very tight due to the wrap and stiffness of the as1. But just kind of silly that they wouldn't include top end materials for a top end skate.
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Also why does it even matter. Every athlete or human being will endorse a company given the right $$. Especially if it's something they already use. Heck I'd endorse CCM.bauer or warrior etc even for three free gear alone. Back on topic...
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Take the tongue out and unlace completely. It either has grey inserts which can be pulled off as it's only taped on. Or if it's only red Eva foam you may need to chisel it off. The red Eva foam is only about 1-2 mm though so not sure if it'll make a tonne of difference for your son.
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I was surprised I never had issues putting them on and taking them off other than making sure the top two laces were undone and laces had slack. Never had to turn my foot sideways. My feet were always locked in too. I guess I'm lucky with how my feet are proportioned.
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Was it from an accident or was this pretty much from birth?
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Crazy. Is this for leg length discrepancies
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It's just weird how the finish can vary so drastically from one boot to another. My trues we're more or less flawless. Carbon was even with all the weaves uniform. The gloss on the finish was uniform and didn't have matte spots like the ones do now. And very minimal residual glue. Even the stitching was straight which from what I saw was a rarity. Only thing for mine were the one skate had the vent holes on the bottom of the boot drilled in by someone cross eyed lol. Which I didn't care about bc no one sees that.
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Those who argue the sloppiness of the finish of trues, do you really think it's acceptable? I can understand whether you personally care or not. But do you really think any company charging 1000 bucks for anything should overlook the details that true has... And this is on top of the complaints in fit etc as well. I've seen trues products in their sticks and protective gear and the finish is overall very good. So why is this level of QC overlooked with the skates?
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For me, personally, as long as it doesn't affect the integrity of the skate I don't really care but as a company producing a brand new item (not refurb etc), I just don't understand why they don't think esthetics is important, bc the reality is that it is to the majority of people out there.
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Ya but you'd think there's a level of pride in the way something looks. It's like saying it doesn't matter if you buy a brand new car with orange peel scuffs etc bc it won't affect it's performance.
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How does this pass qc ?? I've noticed that since they changed their carbon fiber weave, there have been way more substandard cf finish... Seems like the pitting in the cf coating is on every single skate that comes out of the factory.
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That's a good question. Could be preference as some ppl like more wrap and some less... Also, I always wondered why we had to choose which line if it was total custom. If it's completely custom, couldn't you choose any model regardless of the retail "fit" as itll be made for your foot but just a diff paint job and materials.
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With too end skates that are completely thermoformable, you don't need to crank on the laces either. With the as1s I find I tie them just as tight ( which is just enough to remove the slack / a touch tighter). As for waxed laces I always used them with my trues but that's mainly bc I like the thinner look of waxed laces. So just for esthetics.
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Is that from the slot widening? Too much weight during the bake/mould process?
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If you're going to use shims which requires removing rivets etc, I would just swap the holders to something you're used to... Just another option. But it does suck having a set of holders and steel that is just collecting dust. The true holders aren't easy to sell though, unless you more or less give them away.
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I never felt more on my toes with the trues. I went from the one100 to trues both profiled to a quad zero. No issues.
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For me if I went total customs route I would get added comfort liner and larger toe cap. If it happens to be a touch too large I don't have a problem adding 1-2mm of foam to decrease the negative space. Personally, I rather add a bit of foam which would add comfort than try to punch or stretch an area in the toe box junction. I actually did spot heat the junction with my skates and created more room for my pinky however it didn't work that great because the actual toe cap an clip was extremely hard to modify. The carbon right where it meets the toecap wasn't the problem as that heats up well and is extremely mouldable. What ends up happening is that the carbon and toe cap don't expand at the same rate creating even more fit issues and more discomfort bc the plastic toe cap clip/rivet ends up sticking out even more bc or the discrepancy. Not sure if that makes sense but that's what I experienced. What ended up working ok and what I settled with was adding the liner on that area. Putting the skate on and tied it up. Spot heated the area with a heat gun and stood on the skate to add weight and also used my hands to push down in that area. Nothing too crazy but enough to accommodate the added liner without it making my foot feel like it's squished.
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At least you don't get PM's. Unless you do... Lol.
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This is me with my as1s... I had to put Eva foam there myself to remove that plastic ridge feeling on my left skate (pinky). It's more prevalent on my left because my left foot is bigger than my right. It's an issue I hope CCM addresses in the future or with the ft2s. I wonder if this issue is prevalent with the ft1. Have comfort lining on the forefoot is an option for total customs along with increasing the toe box so why don't you go that route if you do another order?
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The tongues being too far down is a common issue I see where people aren't pulling the tongues up after putting the skates on. I see so many pics of this online. Of people or even lhs watched the videos produced by true and svh, all these things are addressed as well as little fine tuning techniques. If you need to rebake hour entire skate bc of overall fit, do that first, and try the tissue technique in the heel and see how it goes. The CCM Orthomove insoles are garbage I'm. Worst feeling aftermarket insoles that I've tried. Personally, even with the trues being a custom skate, I find the best insoles I've tried in them and with other skates are the speed plates. Using SP will also possibly prevent you from having to fiddle with the skates arch as the SP will fill in any negative space you may have without you having to alter the actual shape of the boot (unless you want to).
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Those areas are very solid. You aren't pushing the carbon but more the lining. From my experience to get the lower part of the boot to change shape ( arch, heel), a heat gun is the only way to spot mould it. Baking the skates as a whole isn't going to allow you to Target the certain areas well enough nor is the heat high enough. Personally I'd use a heat gun especially if you need to redo the tissue technique more than once. Seems like waste to have to rebake the whole skate for a couple of small areas. Blisters are from friction. I'm not a fan of the stock insoles. You can also trim the red insoles arch areas to see if that would work. Your heel issue I would try the tissue technique but with a heat gun. Personally, Ive had great success dialing in my skates with the heat gun where baking in general wasn't cutting it.
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I wore a small in the one95 and they were fine and I had to cinch those near max too. In the jetspeeds I'm pretty sure I'd wear a medium but that's bc they are probably the tightest fitting pants available right now. For warrior I am going to try a small since the medium feel ok but I have to cinch the waist max as well.
