Sniper9

For those who ordered boot only. Did they come pre drilled for the holder you told true you were going to use, not pre drilled at all, or pre drilled for the step holder (which is more or less the same pattern as most holders on the market )

I wouldn't consider it moving down. The only benefit the edge holder offers is the ease of swapping steel which realistically the majority of rec players don't even utilize. The cast majority use the same steel from day one until they need to replace it due to wear or even lasts for the life of their skates. The extra 3mm height of the edge is negligible esp with all the tall steel out there today. I found with the step steel and edge holders, I even felt way too high up. To each their own though.

Finally got the setup that I like and everything is dialed in.... Can't explain how much frustration the edge holders caused me... But was able to take these for a spin and just love the ls2 holders. And the peace or mind that the steel is locked in by a bolt again. I ordered the holders purposely avoiding the versions with the red accent. The eBay listing I got it from even had ones with black accents showing, but it was a bulk ad for various sizes so I got whatever they had in my size. Oh well. When I have time I'll use a bit of acetone to remove it or really fine grit sandpaper and wet sand it off and some plastic polish to match the gloss back. My setup is currently as follows; Standard tongue with embroidery Superfeet carbons with the red footbed out Tuuk ls2 holders Ls3 steel profiled to quad zero and 9/16" roh Elite yellow waxed laces Finally a happy camper now. My advice for those who are going to order these, just get the boot and have the holder of your choice that you are used to, and currently use, mounted. Save yourself the time and money of getting holders swapped multiple times like me. I actually didn't mind the step holders but aesthetics got the best of me.

I didn't have issues with the step holder. And didn't have issues with the black edge since the shop did the same rivet setup as Bauer does and has a copper on the rear front instep. But when I put the white edge on at a diff place, they did all steel rivets on the front and after one skate 3 of them in the right foot came loose. I think it was more to due with the rivets not being properly installed in the first place though. I've since put ls2 holders on at a diff place, and they didn't use copper on the front as well. I'll see how that holds up although I can tell the rivets seem to be installed alot snugger this time around. Like u said though, worst case if need be, I'll have additional coppers added here and there.

Any of u guys have rivet issues? I know I've read it here and there in this thread but does the fact that the boot is full carbon make it harder for the rivets to hold and stay tight? I'm only 160 lbs and have never had rivet issues. The most recent holder swap I did, the place only used copper on the rear two. Whereas true did copper on the rear two of the back and front part of the holder, and I know Bauer adds one copper on the front rear instep as well.

Picked the skates up from my lhs with the ls2s mounted. Swapped the ls2 steel that came with the holders with my old ls3s that we're on my one100. Man the feeling of tightening that bolt... And having the steel nice and snug from front to back. The nightmare is over 🤪😁👌

Personally, if you're willing to spend the money and willing to put the time into getting used to a totally different feel of skate go for it. If you're happy with what you have and play at a recreational level, I'd personally stick with what works.

It's funny bc I'm a size 7 and my laces we're a 108 it seemed. Although probably safe to use after a couple hrs after baking, I personally would allow at least 12 hours before using them on the ice after heat molding since these boots are heated for so much longer than other skates, and get to such a pliable state when hot.

Dropped the skates off at the LHS to have the ls2s swapped in..... need this headache to be over lol

It's good they are able to work around the patent but it's obvious it is causing some fit issues, whether it's happening a lot or just bad luck for me. Most people wouldn't test the fit of their steel to the extent that I do but once it's in your head.... The ls2 holders have the best fit out of the edge, and step holders I have right now. Even the step holders which have the same bolt system as the ls2 have up and down play when I push the blade into the ground with alot of weight. I can live with that because it's like that for BOTH holders and will feel the same on both feet. Whereas the edge one foot I have to skate a certain way not to toe pick while the right I'm fine. Not sure I'd that makes sense. The play itself isn't a huge deal but the non uniformity is.

I've contacted them and am awaiting a reply. I've also asked to exchange for steel for ls2 holders if a refund isn't possible.

Yea I have. It seems to only be an issue with the holder just like with my black edge holders which were brand new. It's not a tydan defect. It's just something for whatever reason is causing issues with the left holders. Not sure if it's the trigger system that causing overall fit issues or not. I just need to give up on these holders or settle with only using Bauer steel potentially. I actually have a feeling the different rear hook on the afternarket steels like step and tydan may have something to do with it. If you compare those with the ls steel u can see there's extra notches on step and tydan

I know I said the previous was my last post but I wanted to provide an update. Went for my first skate with my new edge and tydan blades and the up down movement on the left skate was very noticeable. To the point it caused me to toe pick here and there. I've also figured out it's a combination of the holders and steels tolerances. I lined up the ls3 steel to the tydans and there's def a shape diff. The tydans front hook is a bit shorter than the ls3 so the hook doesn't sit all the way into the notch for the hook of the holder (likely causing the play since it throws the rest of the proportions off a bit). The funny thing is that it doesn't seem to effect the right holder so it could be a left holder mold tolerance ... But for sure the ls3 steel is molded more specifically for the edge holders. Since I'm 0/2 for left edge holders with this problem on both step and tydan steel, I don't think I'm going to try to warranty and get another left holder since I think the problem will.stil exist. I've decided to just put back my step holders on and cut my losses. Just a shame my tydan steel will.br collecting dust if I can't sell them.

We will see what happens.... I think things will only improve from here. At least they better or they're not going to be able to stay alive, especially since Bauer and ccm have stepped up their game, and most people don't need a 100% custom skate. For me, I had no issues with Bauers fit and my skates were from 2010. I haven't tried any retail skates since. The only reason I got the true was because of the novelty and curiosity. Happy with them but if Bauer offers the same comfort, my next pair would likely be with Bauer again. The thing about retail skates is you can actually try them on before you buy them, which is also a huge plus. And exchanging them due to warranty would be much easier at the retail level. Not back and forth emails, and then potentially a remake of a skate which could be weeks.

Regarding laces, you would think they would just send skates with laces no shorter than 96, since it's better too long than too short...

I wonder what the % is regarding ones that get sent out that shouldn't have. I mean, you only really see the bad ones being posted. Most people that are happy obviously wouldn't make a post and rant about it.

Just tried the tape method using only Scotch tape as sock tape would have been too thick and it worked like a charm. Let's see how long it will last if I don't remove my blade (which I don't intend to do) Also just for kicks, I swapped the tydan with the ls3 I had laying around and it fit snug no clicks movement, nothing. You could also visibly see less gap between the holder and the ls3 steel where it clicked with the tydans. So either Bauer made their steel thicker to compensate for possible fit issues, or it just so happened the one set of ls3s I have is on the thicker side, OR Bauer steel fits best bc it's their steel for their holder? Oldtrainerguy, do you have issues with lateral move movement with ls steel too, or primarily with other aftermarket brands? I actually wonder now if its not even an issue with the trigger and just the width of the blade channels vs the diff variable widths of steel out there. And because so many people have the edge holder, it makes it seem like it's an edge holder issue? I mean the trigger holds the blade in place but even the bolt of an ls2 holder wouldn't prevent side to side movement of the steel if the channels were just a hair too wide...... And I've also read a post earlier about steel being so tall now that it puts more strain on the holders which were developed for older height blades. Anyways, I think this will be my last post about holders etc. I'm occupying way too much time worrying over something so petty.

I hope it works out for you and I hope this was a learning point for true. Whether performance is effected, all companies should know that esthetics plays a pretty huge role in quality as well. VH is now backed by a huge company and the QC should be improved greatly. There should be people paid to literally look at a finished skate and inspect them for glue etc.... I had glue residue on the actual silver logo. It wasn't easy to get off but it wasn't hard either. That could have been easily remover before it was sent out. Whether they're unable to keep up with the demands at this point may be another issue they are running into, but pumping out products with the carbon weave like yours will only deter future sales.

To have to do that on every holder just to see if it's good isnt worth it imo. Products should be reliable enough for defective ones to be a one off and fee and far between, not a coin toss. Also, my clicking is from side to side movement on my new holder. The other ones I had it was from up and down. So go figure. Oh well as long as it doesn't get worse I can live with it. It's at the very back two inches of the blade behind the actual trigger, and it's so minimal, so it's likely not even going to cause any problems.

I would think the sock tape would do a good job. Anything thicker to reduce the play, I wouldn't even bother as that's just way too much play to try to fix.

Can u send me a pm regarding what you mean exactly when repairing with the tape. I am picturing the below link, but in case you had a diff method http://blogs.sparxhockey.com/stop-the-clicking-fix-your-loose-steel-with-this-hockey-hack

Maybe. But I got these holders on before my steel came in. And the frustrating part is that one set of steel may click while the other won't and vice versa. So really, that may help with your first set of steel but not future ones. At the end of the day, it is just too inconsistent, and it gets old returning holder after holder. I play 1-2x a week max during the winter season and 1x a week tops during the summer, so this issue likely won't even be an problem for the life of my steel. My last ls3 steel lasted me a good 4 years and they still have a lot of sharpening in them and they were profiled twice. So even if I get a good 2-3 years out of this holder, I'd be happy, but will be switching out to the ls2 (I have a spare new set), or look at whatever new options are available at that time.

So basically the holders are hit or miss.... And when it's a miss your Sol.

You may be right that we, and I may be making a bigger deal than it really is. But it's in my head now and it's going to bug me now that I know it's there or it will eventually happen. If it doesn't get worse over time that's fine, but if it does it means it's something I'll have to constantly monitor which is mentally exhausting. I just like the piece of mind with the ls2 holder. I had them.on my one100 for the 7 years I had the skates. No issues at all. Went through two sets of steel and they are still super snug. With all the diff companies making steel these days, there may also be some play in ls2 holders though, who knows. I've only ever used ls2 and ls3 steel for my ls2 holders. For my edge I've used step, tydan and ls3. Step was the loosest, tydan was pretty snug but some minor clicking, and ls3 was pretty good overall. So it could be the steel tolerance, or the holder, or both. And just that the edge has a more sensitive tolerance because of it's locking mechanism being plastic components vs a nut and bolt that can be adjusted in the ls2.

Yes it is. What do u mean use the furniture felt. I know there's the tape trick to reduce wiggle room but I am not going to use that until there's a more noticeable play. Right now it's very minimal just enough to make a click. I think even the thickness of Scotch tape would make it really difficult to install the steel. That's how small of a tolerance it takes to be off for the edge holder to cause issues, which is why I'm not a fan at all. The trigger lock holds the blade in place to a certain degree but will never be as firm as s bolt and nut. I think having a very thin layer of rubber or silicon in the holder channels to hug the blade would be a good idea potentially, unless it really absorbs energy transfer of the skaters. This way though, it would adapt to the minor size tolerance differences alot better from holder to holder/steel to steel Aesthetically the edge holders are the best, imo, but reliability wise, not so much. I wish they made a refined ls2 holder that had the updated body lines of the edge. Step/graf holders have the brilliant idea of having the bolt on the outside, but they aren't the best looking.