Slate
Blackcurrant
Watermelon
Strawberry
Orange
Banana
Apple
Emerald
Chocolate
Marble
Slate
Blackcurrant
Watermelon
Strawberry
Orange
Banana
Apple
Emerald
Chocolate
Marble
Sniper9
-
Content Count
1997 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
113 -
Feedback
100%
Everything posted by Sniper9
-
That honestly just looks like residual glue to me.....
-
I know how you feel. I had the same experience with the tuuk edge holders. I was losing my mind. But am glad now that it's behind me..... Post pics when you can, if be interested in seeing what you mean. Did you use a shoe horn when putting on the skates during the bake fitting. If not, that is a good reason why the lining is separating from the boot.
-
I'm pretty sure the tape on the outsole is actually double sided tape used when aligning the holders on he boot.
-
Who said anything about masking tape being there to support the footbed and or aiding in the rivets holding? The masking tape could have been used during the build process. It's kind of ridiculous you are now assuming things and making stuff up. You really are that bored aren't you.
-
The only thing on the sole of the true boot is lining of masking tape. I doubt that was out there for the rivets.... Looks more like the tape was there for the last process.
-
I'm pretty sure JR meant that CCM has the layer not true. Also different issues arise on skates for different people. Someone might have rivet issues and some might have tendon guards and some have both etc. If you read reviews for any products, there are issues for everything that may or may not appear for others. The only real consistent issue I have seen the qc for excess glue and other cosmetic stuff. My rivet issue was only after I had the holders replaced twice. So there's no way I can really blame true for this problem as there are many other factors that could be why. Like I said before, there are alot of true homers here but if you are tired of reading it, then why not just unsubscribe from this thread?
-
The mashing of the rivets is essentially what the last shop that I got my ls2 holders put on did. And they look much more sturdy and aren't going anywhere. The one that did get loose I noticed wasnt flattened as well and wasn't sitting flush, so that was an oversight by them unfortunately. That shop pumps out alot of true skates and the majority of those they install tuuks on so they must have caught on earlier that rivets don't grab well on the true/vh soles. I'm glad you Chimed in on this JR.
-
I'll agree that a lot of people defend the company quite a bit. Imo, since true took over, all the cosmetic issues like glue and uneven stitching should be more strictly quality controlled. As for the rivets, it could have been an issue of removing and riveting a number of times causing the holes to widen slightly. However with a carbon sole it seems that would be less of an issue than traditional soles. But like I said, I can't really say the rivet issue is actually a problem with the design since the issue only started to arise when the tech strayed from trues original rivet pattern.
-
I wouldn't defend them if there were issues that arose with my skates. The tendon guard issue is an issue with alot of skates and is mainly bc ppl use the tendon guards to pull off their skates. I had a pair of Bauer's with tendon guards I ruined bc I held on to them while I banged the toe of the skate on the floor to get ice off the blades. My second set of Bauer's I never used the tendon guard to do the above or to remove them and they are in perfect condition after 7 years. I'll definitely document if I have issues with my true tendon guards. One criticism I do have is that the Velcro on the tongues are horrible and wear out way too fast. I've read almost every single page of this thread and the I don't recall rivets being an issue. None more than the odd person have with other skates. The tendon guard thing I will admit seems to have been an issue dating back to vh but i think it has more to do with how the skates are difficult to put on and off and ppl are using the tendon guard as leverage to remove their skates. Scott even mentioned in his videos not to use the tendon guard as leverage.
-
Read my edited post. I edited it while you replied. But like I said. I never had issues with the rivets with step holders from the factory. So really it's not a design flaw. The issue for me arose when I made modifications after the fact and the places where I had my holders swapped didn't use the same rivet/copper pattern that true had. So I assume true is somewhat aware of rivet issues and the need of extra copper rivets for added strength, since they are one of very few companies that utilize four copper rivets per skate.
-
A design flaw how? The inability of rivets grabbing properly to the sole of the boot? If this is the case, it isn't a just a true problem but a vh problem as well. I think it's probably just as common with the new ccm boots that are also of a monocoque design. I don't think it's so much a flaw that the rivet system needs updating big time now that soles of boots aren't fabric/leather anymore and energy transfer is much more efficient with the carbon boots. What true, and other companies should do is start using the t nut design Graf has. Now that most new holders have more or less the same hole pattern, it only makes sense to have bolts that make holder replacement and swapping a cinch. A cheaper option would be to line the inside sole of the boot with some kind of material that would allow standard rivets to grip better. Lastly, this issue seems to be resolved simply by alternating steel and Copper rivets. EDIT come to think of it, I never had rivet issues with the stock step holders nor did I with the first set of edge holders I put on. I believe the issues started because when I had my second set of edge holders put on the tech only user copper rivets on the two rear towers and standard rivets on all eight on the front tower. True put copper rivets on the two rear of the front tower, and the first edge holders had the same rivet pattern as Bauer's with the copper on the rear instep of the front tower. When My ls2 holders were put on, they followed the same rivet pattern as when I had the rivet issues where no copper was used on the front tower. I should have told them to put at least two on the front tower. Oh well, I don't see this being an issue that can't be solved simply by adding a couple extra copper rivets in the front tower.
-
It's like the hole for that one spot may be stretched a bit or was widened slightly when I swapped the step holder for the tuuk? I only assume this because this one rivet always seated slightly at an angle as if the hole was a bit too big and when the rivet is pressed it would moved slightly and not be compressed flush, causing it to be easily loosened when strained. These are technically the fourth set of holders on these skates. First was the stock step. Two diff edge holders. And now on the ls2. I noticed the issue on the second set of edge after one skate. So it could be the fact so many holders were put on and taken off, or just techs not taking the time when riveting and inspecting their work. I don't plan to change the holders anymore at this point unless due to breakage. Hopefully the copper route does the trick as the other ones seems snug and fine. Also, It really looks like the carbon sole makes it hard for traditional steel rivets to get a good grip.....
-
So that pesky rivet came loose again after three skates. Replaced it with copper. Hopefully that's the end of that....
-
Just figured out a way to use the Powerfoot without cutting anything. Put adhesive loop Velcro on the Powerfoot that faces up so it actually just hooks into the velcro tab by the toe box... This way u don't need to permanently stick the Powerfoot onto the toe box as well.... 🤙
-
If you don't like the logo cover it up yourself. There's many ways you can do it.
-
Only problem I can think of by putting the Powerfoot under the Velcro tab is having the hook on the velcro rib on my socks/toes. That's why I would either cut the tab or put the Powerfoot over it.... But that would mean I would be stuck with that setup and the tongue only able to be in the one position.
-
Did you figure out how you wanted to install them? Adjusting the tongue all the way up so it doesn't go into the toe box and then having the velcro tab covered by the power foot? That's what I think I'd do if I were to use it. Don't really wanna have up the power foot. But for now having the tongue into the toe box has decreased enough room in the toe box for me to be happy with it.
-
Either mail it in to some of the places listed on this thread, or buy new steel online from tydan etc who actually does profiling etc for you before it's shipped out
-
Is that like the zherdev pro/frk?
-
The Powerfoot for trues is the same as the mako. I wanted to get Powerfoots but I'm not sure what to do with the Velcro tab as well. Not sure if I'm supposed to put the powerfoot over it or under it. I currently have my tongues so they are a but lower and overlap the Velcro tab in the toe box. So there isn't any Velcro sticking out on the bottom. It has decreased some negative space but I want more space taken away at the tip of the toes. It doesn't really bother me but it would definitely perfect the fit. I'm thinking if I do go the Powerfoot route, I'd either move the tongues up and put the Powerfoot over tht tab or cut the Powerfoot to accommodate the tab. Would like to see what others here have done.
-
Removing the red insole definitely provided a better fit with superfeet. I just can't use the stock insoles due to it's sponginess. It also almost feels slippery too.
-
Yea if ur feet lines up with the. Blue insole then the fit is correct (pretty much biggest toe in line with the end of the insole). Mine brush. When I had the step holders the left actually touched. But like I said it was bc of the pitch. Now they only brush.
-
There is a layer of foam inside of the toe caps. You can shave some of it off or remove it. I'm pretty sure it's just a layer or two of the red footbed that's on there for shock absorption and/or for reducing room in the toe box. I'm sure that's one of the things they already suggested though. If you are using the step holders, the pitch makes the toes against the toecap more noticeable. When I went from the step holders to the tuuks it def reduced the amount of contact between my toes and the toe cap due to the change in pitch. If your feet line up fine with the footbed/insole, it isn't going to be a size issue in terms of a boot that's too short.
-
Step is 10' radius stock
-
My clicking on the edge holders came from the steel having movement up and down and it was hard for me to replicate it with my hands only. I had to actually put weight into it.
