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Krev

Easton Mako Skates

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I just picked up a pair of Mako 2's and I'll be skating them tomorrow morning at a stick time. I'm excited and afraid at the same time. hahaha

Really, the only adjustment you'll have to worry about is the change in pitch. It's just more aggressive. Shouldn't take too long. Other than that, it'll be a great skate for you.

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Little progress report today on the mako 2's.......I can't say enough good things about them, when I hopped on the ice I was already thinking about the pitch but within 5-10 mins I was totally fine on them. immediate take aways were I felt more explosive off the line, the turning radius is bananas and I could really feel my edges forward and backward crossovers felt really powerful and stable. I tossed on my total ones at the end of the session and they felt clunky and a bit slow. The skate felt really comfortable toward the end of the session smallest 2 toes on my left skate got a little numb but I'm sure that will work itself out with with wearing them, and lacing. I found that I didn't need to crank these down to keep them tight, where as the total ones I was using waxed laces and between 2nd-3rd period I was generally tightening stuff up again. Hoping to get these into a game situation next week at some point, but so far so good.

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Wouldnt skate size factor into it? Im guessing 1/32" on a size 7 skate is very different than on a size 12.

No, it is a static measurement at the skate, not at the top of your head.

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@AfftonDad - A little confused because Ive never seen the equipment before. Anyway, would you have any idea of how big a shim I would need to add to a size 8 skate to add 3 degrees to the pitch? I know its possible to calculate using trig, but Im not sure if I should be measuring the smallest angle from the very front of the boot, or if I should measure from the back of the front part of the holder.

Im trying to get the pitch of my skates with marsblades to match my makos, and gotta figure out how thick a piece of HDPE im gonna need.

@Chad - I think I understand now. Any idea how big a shim would be needed for a size 8 to add 3 degrees of pitch?

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About 2.5mm if my calculations are correct.

+1 = 1/32

+3 = 3/32

3/32 = ..094"

.094 " = 2.4mm

ok I'm lost again. Heres why Im not getting it.

If pitch is measured in degrees, and the CXN holder is 3 degrees more aggressive than tuuk, then when adding a shim, you would definitely have to take skate size into account (unless its so negligible that I'm greatly overestimating it)

Take this for example:

G3zY7V7.jpg

Now lets say that angle C on a Bauer skate is 5 degrees, then the angle on Mako skates should be 8 degrees, correct?

If you change the length of side a, then side c has to increase more to achieve the same pitch angle.

If I knew where to measure from, I could just solve the problem like this, but the way holders work, I don't know if I should be measuring from the end of the toe cap, or somewhere like this:

F0SLin8.jpg

Can someone explain where im going wrong? I went ahead and ordered a 1/32" peice of HDPE, so I can epoxy pieces together to get the right amount once Ive figured out what it is for sure.

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The difference is negligible, unless you're comparing youth skates to a size 14 boot. If it helps, think of it as +1, +2 and not in actual trigonometric degrees. This isn't structural engineering, it's a rough estimation and has been the industry standard for decades.

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The difference is negligible, unless you're comparing youth skates to a size 14 boot. If it helps, think of it as +1, +2 and not in actual trigonometric degrees. This isn't structural engineering, it's a rough estimation and has been the industry standard for decades.

haha alright I see. So since the sheet I ordered comes in 1/32" thickness, Im gonna try bonding together three sheets and testing to see how it feels. Marsblade is supposed to have the same pitch as tuuk, so this should get me to the same pitch as my ice skates.

Question about the mako 2 for those who have used them: How is the footbed compared to the mako 1? I ended up swapping mine out with some Bauer footbeds because I didnt like how the mako footbed felt. It was definitely grippy, but I guess I just like the smoother texture of the bauer footbed better. In pictures it definitely looks different than the mako 1.

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Yeah... I'm convinced now that the usage of the term 3 degrees is a misnomer/misusage. Here is a blade/holder overlayed on one that has been rotated by 3 degrees (in the true since of the word degrees). The intersection is shown in green. In other words, the green area shows what you would have to do to a blade to contour a TRUE 3 DEGREES into it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2A94zJKeEY5TkpCMFFfUF95czQ/edit?usp=sharing

Edited by AfftonDad
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The difference is negligible, unless you're comparing youth skates to a size 14 boot. If it helps, think of it as +1, +2 and not in actual trigonometric degrees. This isn't structural engineering, it's a rough estimation and has been the industry standard for decades.

He just explained they're not actual degrees. Why are we photoshopping hypotheticals?

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He just explained they're not actual degrees. Why are we photoshopping hypotheticals?

If you read AfftonDads post carefully, he was simply confirming Chadd's post, and I just confirmed AfftonDad's. No big deal.

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He just explained they're not actual degrees. Why are we photoshopping hypotheticals?

There are a lot of "strong personalities" on here that can sometimes jump you if you suggest something that is different from what they believe. I was simply trying to provide a convincing (and hopefully non-confrontational) argument to back up what Chadd said about them not being degrees (in the sense of trigonometric angles). In my line of work, degrees mean degrees, so I held the belief for a long time that the Mako had 3° (in the trigonometric sense) because that is what I read. I had convinced myself a year ago (when I had my Mako's pitch reduced slightly by 0.5/32nds on a Blackstone machine) that they couldn't possibly be degrees in the trigonometric sense. I tend to think about things like this in great detail so I appreciate having a true understanding of what is going on. I generally assume there are some others on here that are interested in trying to understand things to that same level of detail. Even still, since I first joined the forum, I have learned to apply a filter to the things I post, because I'd rather avoid the feather ruffling.

Edited by AfftonDad
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Carry on, folks, don't mind me.

edit: I like this forum. I like most of the people here. I wasn't attempting to call anybody out for their trigonometric experiments.

Edited by laserrobottime
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If anyone is interested, To satisfy my own curiosity, I "measured" the front to rear tower angle on some of the common holders (Reebok Speedblade, Easton CXN, Reebok EPro, Easton Razor Bladz II, Tuuk Lightspeed Edge) from their pictures on HockeyMonkey. The accuracy of the measurements is subject to my ability to "guestimate" the balance point on the blade and is subject to the amount of perspective of the photo (I didn't include the Graf Ultra 5000 because of obvious perspective in the picture). Because the measurements are at best rough, I didn't want to post it to the thread but if you are interested, PM me and I'll send you the link.

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Better than the mako 1 foot bed, thought I didn't have any problems with those either.

Zach

The only problem I had was how thin they were and because of how tight the boot is on your foot, mine would always bunch up when I took my foot out. Eventually they had enough creases in them that I couldn't get my foot IN the boot without them bunching up. I had to put in new insoles (ended up going w/ my old Superfeet).

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Yeah... I'm convinced now that the usage of the term 3 degrees is a misnomer/misusage. Here is a blade/holder overlayed on one that has been rotated by 3 degrees (in the true since of the word degrees). The intersection is shown in green. In other words, the green area shows what you would have to do to a blade to contour a TRUE 3 DEGREES into it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2A94zJKeEY5TkpCMFFfUF95czQ/edit?usp=sharing

Over the years I've seen some shops whose final product looks a lot like that.

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I'm getting the slightest heel lock problems in them. Even after a heat gun and boot squeeze. I didn't experience this with the Mako 1s. Anyone else with this problem?

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I have not been. Something worth trying might be to take the tendon guard off, bake them again, and really get after squeezing them AND holding them in place. Removing the tendon guard should allow you to really get in and focus on the areas you want to.

Zach

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