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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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Broke the blade off a prostock X60 last night just couple inches above the heel. Can I just cut off the jagged part and put a blade in right there (tapered I assume) or do I need to cut it and then flip the shaft over and put in a std blade?

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Broke the blade off a prostock X60 last night just couple inches above the heel. Can I just cut off the jagged part and put a blade in right there (tapered I assume) or do I need to cut it and then flip the shaft over and put in a std blade?

A few pages back a guy cut a broken ops x60 straight down the middle of T in textreme and put a tapered blade in. You may need a strip or two of tape but thats your best option imo

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Broke the blade off a prostock X60 last night just couple inches above the heel. Can I just cut off the jagged part and put a blade in right there (tapered I assume) or do I need to cut it and then flip the shaft over and put in a std blade?

all you need is just 13x26mm HOLE!

and one more TOTALONE with CCM V10 tapered blade retail Ovechkin

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nadap053037145351231_thumb.jpg

Edited by MilleniumFalcon

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I saw a lot of mentions of Dolomites, but has anyone tried a Warrior Widow? I got one from a teammate that I was going to cut off the bottom and try to get a tapered blade.

With the dagger taper, you're most likely going to have to cut higher than usual to get a blade in there

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Thinking of buying a pro stock se16 new and cutting the blade off so I can put my custom blade in. Is it crazy to buy a new stick just to cut it? Would be around $120. A little worried I'll ruin it if I can't get the tenon out?

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Thinking of buying a pro stock se16 new and cutting the blade off so I can put my custom blade in. Is it crazy to buy a new stick just to cut it? Would be around $120. A little worried I'll ruin it if I can't get the tenon out?

Buying the actual SE16 shaft would be cheaper. I'm sure you can find broken SE16 OPS on eBay for cheap.

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This is true, however sometimes they do a wrap of carbon fibre around where the blade and shaft join. They do this so when the stick is flexed they don't get a crack line at the join site. Therefore you can try sanding the area prior to applying the heat. I have done this a few times to customize sticks - changing out the blades and it worked very well.

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I can't find any se16 tapered shafts. I don't want a red eq50 they're ugly. It's a pro stock se16 with gold eq graphics. Would go great with my team colors because we clones of penguins uniforms (amateur penguins). If I win the auction at starting price it's only 100. I don't know what to do :\

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I can't find any se16 tapered shafts. I don't want a red eq50 they're ugly. It's a pro stock se16 with gold eq graphics. Would go great with my team colors because we clones of penguins uniforms (amateur penguins). If I win the auction at starting price it's only 100. I don't know what to do :\

SE16's, at least retail ones, are made with heat resistant epoxy. That means you can't heat and pull it like other sticks, such as Dolomites. You're going to have to cut the blade off at the fuse point, then heat and chisel out the tenon inside. It's always risky, especially with pro stocks (depending on if they have a modified construction), to damage the stick when doing that. With a slip up, you can bow out the shaft wall, crack it, etc... Yeah, a lot of people have done SE16's, including me, but I think there is a different mentality when you're fixing a broken stick rather than converting a new stick. I guess if looks are that important to you, go for it.

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Hey guys!

I have a SE16 and I absolutly have the curve on it so I was wondering if I convert it in a shaft blade combo. I read a lot on this thread but there's still one thing I don't get, when I'm at the chiseling part, do I need to heat it up a bit and I just don't get the chiseling part. What am I suppose to chisel? The tenon or the side of the tenon? I don't quite understand that part (first language is french). So if anyone could clarify in steps what do I need to do after cutting the stick at the fuse point, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

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Hey guys!

I have a SE16 and I absolutly have the curve on it so I was wondering if I convert it in a shaft blade combo. I read a lot on this thread but there's still one thing I don't get, when I'm at the chiseling part, do I need to heat it up a bit and I just don't get the chiseling part. What am I suppose to chisel? The tenon or the side of the tenon? I don't quite understand that part (first language is french). So if anyone could clarify in steps what do I need to do after cutting the stick at the fuse point, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

When I convert my sticks, including having done a SE16, here's what I do:

1. Cut off blade at fuse point

2. Heat up tenon, then use something (small chisel/flathead screwdriver) to separate the tenon from the shaft wall. I did this on all 4 sides on the tenon by forcing your tool in where the glue is. You should be able to compress the softened tenon (because I heat it every so often and its not that thick of material.)

3. Once the tenon was lose, i used a punch to pound it towards the handle end of the stick. Once it got to far down for the punch, I used a longer piece of metal (rebar, etc...) to finish pushing it all the way out.

I hope this helps.

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When I convert my sticks, including having done a SE16, here's what I do:

1. Cut off blade at fuse point

2. Heat up tenon, then use something (small chisel/flathead screwdriver) to separate the tenon from the shaft wall. I did this on all 4 sides on the tenon by forcing your tool in where the glue is. You should be able to compress the softened tenon (because I heat it every so often and its not that thick of material.)

3. Once the tenon was lose, i used a punch to pound it towards the handle end of the stick. Once it got to far down for the punch, I used a longer piece of metal (rebar, etc...) to finish pushing it all the way out.

I hope this helps.

Very helpful thanks a lot!

I'll try it this weekend :)

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It's not an ideal fit, but I've paired a blade salvaged from an OctoGun with a shaft salvaged from an s17. I've also salvaged the blades from s17s and s19s depending on the breakpoint. I'd imagine the RS would be the same. Both techniques are already listed in this thread.

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