Jump to content
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

Recommended Posts

Thanks for all your help guys.

Regarding the question earlier I cut it an inch above where the lie would start...where top of the blade meets the shaft.

that particular stick I have cut one inch above (close to the top of the stick) the fuse point.

I will try heating and knocking the tenon back. It seems as though there is a glue (strong) holding the tenon in place.

I will put in some more elbow grease later this week and post pics and keep you all posted.

These are retail warrior dolomites btw (70 flex) I put a tapered blade beside the stick and it seems like the adult tapered will fit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Farhan... from my experience with conversions, the easiest were Warriors, sherwoods and RBKs. Warriors took maybe 3-4 min total of heating and knocking back. RBK and sherwoods - didnt even need to heat it up. Just cut, and was surprised to see very little of the fluff and tenon. Used a chisel (screwdriver) and hammer, and a small tap knocked everything out, resulting in a very clean shaft. I got a batch of prostock RBK shafts (about 8 of them) that I converted that way, only 2 needed a little more heating... still have two of them that I'm intending to sell off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone tried converting the 8.0.8? i might pick up a prostock one if it is possible to do as tsr only carries them in the pasha curves

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi!

Has anyone experience in cutting a Warrior MacDaddy. I have the blue grip version and the blade cracked on the top from toe to heel. Because it has a low kickpoint, i don't want to flip it and use it with a standard blade.

Can i cut it at the fuse point and put a tapered blade in? How can i identify the fuse point?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah but it has weird like slopes(walls aren't even parallel) in the shaft. I had already cut a lot off. I'd need a 12 inch plug to even use it now (flipped, I still can't fit a blade in the bottom)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Warrior , Bauer, and i would say any others that use a bag instead of a steel mandrel for the inside forming and manufacturing of their perspective stick , the end user will have a tough time converting after the stick is broken and ready for making new.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

has anyone cut a totalone yet?

I bought a broken TotalONE OPS recently with the broken blade cut off already. The cut made 1.5" below the "E" in TOTALONE". I was able to put a 7K tapered blade in there but had to add a strip of tape on the tenon to make a snug fit. I think the cut was made too high up the shaft so it might be a good idea to start lower and work your way up the shaft. Bauer tapered blades might have slightly larger tenon compared to the RBK 7Ks, so depending on your choice of blade it might affect where you make the cut.

When the blade on my TotalONE goes, I'll definitely be making the cut lower from the "E"...maybe 2.5"-3" below instead of 1.5".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi!

Has anyone experience in cutting a Warrior MacDaddy. I have the blue grip version and the blade cracked on the top from toe to heel. Because it has a low kickpoint, i don't want to flip it and use it with a standard blade.

Can i cut it at the fuse point and put a tapered blade in? How can i identify the fuse point?

I tried a while ago, lined it up with a tapered blade and cut at the tenon but it wouldn't fit even with chiseling, kept cutting up the shaft in .5 inch segments but I still couldn't find a fit so I ended up with a jr. standard blade in it with some tape on the hosel for a tighter fit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought a broken TotalONE OPS recently with the broken blade cut off already. The cut made 1.5" below the "E" in TOTALONE". I was able to put a 7K tapered blade in there but had to add a strip of tape on the tenon to make a snug fit. I think the cut was made too high up the shaft so it might be a good idea to start lower and work your way up the shaft. Bauer tapered blades might have slightly larger tenon compared to the RBK 7Ks, so depending on your choice of blade it might affect where you make the cut.

When the blade on my TotalONE goes, I'll definitely be making the cut lower from the "E"...maybe 2.5"-3" below instead of 1.5".

thanks for the reply. im thinking i might do a dolomite blade because the hosel is shorter than any bauer blades. i'll know soon i think my blade is going to go lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for the reply. im thinking i might do a dolomite blade because the hosel is shorter than any bauer blades. i'll know soon i think my blade is going to go lol

A shorter hosel will mean you'll need to add a longer wood extension on top?...adding more weight lol.

The T1 shaft I got wasn't cut on top but I still had to add an 1" extension. If he didn't cut off the blade too high up, the shaft would have been perfect for me...no extension!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Managed to seperate my Dolomite DD last night, couldn't have been easier

There is a visable line of where the two meet, around 2" below the base of where the graphics end. All I did to east the blade out was score the joint with a knife & then heat on the stove. It pulled out relatively easy & left the shaft free of any damage

There seems to be some sponge inside the shaft which was a bit odd :blink: But I suppose it's to reduce vibrations or something? :huh:

My only concern is whether or not a tapered blade will fit straight in there? Our LHS doesn't really stock many tapered blades & I'd hate to order one in for it not to fit!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Guys and gals.

was wondering if I could get some help here...Ive converted easton and bauer sticks without a problem.

I have 3 warrior dolomites which I am trying to convert. Not sure which year this is but this is how they look

I cut away the blade (all 3 of them are broken at the blade)

I can see where the tenon is, when I try to hammer away at it, it seems as though its going through the shaft (damaging/cracking the shaft)...I was able to make some progress but it seems as though nothing is helping.

this is what I am left with for my end result, and I cant make any progress...

should I be heating up the shaft (near the tenon) and then chiseling away? if anyone has converted this particular stick it would be awesome to know how you did it, or what am I doing wrong.

Thanks gang.

so had some free time today and decided to give it a whirl. heat, chisel, and needed needle nose plier to pull out what i chiseled away. took me about 20 minutes but got it. Have 2 more to go. going to cut a bit lower thise time...

was able to get a tapered mission blade into the stick with some tape wrapped around the blade hosel. lets see how it holds up tommorrow night.

thanks for all your help guys and gals. the chisels were a great investment.

one last question, i was using our ceran top stove to apply heat to the shaft, are you guys doing the same thing or do you find a heat guns works better?

to see my pics of what i started out with look at the bottom of page 46. Didnt want to quote pics :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Managed to seperate my Dolomite DD last night, couldn't have been easier

There is a visable line of where the two meet, around 2" below the base of where the graphics end. All I did to east the blade out was score the joint with a knife & then heat on the stove. It pulled out relatively easy & left the shaft free of any damage

There seems to be some sponge inside the shaft which was a bit odd :blink: But I suppose it's to reduce vibrations or something? :huh:

My only concern is whether or not a tapered blade will fit straight in there? Our LHS doesn't really stock many tapered blades & I'd hate to order one in for it not to fit!

A Dolomite tapered blade will fit into the shaft. most tapered blades will fit, but if your are looking for the same feel as the dolomite go with the warrior blade.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Two questions:

1. I have a prostock SE16 and after a couple games, I have a crack in the blade as well as it going soft. I have read many techniques for converting the stick to a shaft, but does anyone have a youtube of the process? I plan to cut the blade, and heat/chisel until I have the shaft.

2. A teammate has a couple Bauer XXXX OPS that he destroyed the blade on. Is this a possible candidate for the conversion or would it have to get flipped?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would just try heating up the joint of the blade and shaft and pull. It may pull apart since it is a fused stick.

I have never been able to pull the blade out of a SE16. I have removed the blades from a couple of prostock se16s and a pro EQ50 with heat, dremmel and a chisel. Cut slightly(mm)above the fuse line then use the dremel to clean out the inside of the shaft. then the heat gun, with the chisel, to separate the tenon from the shaft. work one side first then the other. Once you cut the the blade off you will be able to see exactly what to do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

prostocks might be different type of sticks with the same paintjob... so essentially for prostocks you might get lucky and have it easily converted, or get one that cannot be done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

finally I shot the full process while I was at my father-in-law' country house helping him with a car...see how do russians do it!

1) Pro stock easton sl with broken blade

2) cut 2.5cm above the fuse line

3) apply some heat and chisel...gently

4) apply some heat and chisel...gently

5) apply some heat and...win!

nadap125743639580230_thumb.jpg

nadap125744432251230_thumb.jpg

nadap125744772302230_thumb.jpg

nadap125745504573230_thumb.jpg

Anyone try this with a Warrior Kronik yet? If so how'd it work?

kronik is a true ops. just insert it into the butt end.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...