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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

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DrMolotov

Who here customizes there stick

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How many people still get out the soldering torch, heat up the blade and shape some funky pure custom curve?

I have never tried doing the above on a composite as I'm not sure if it would wreck the stick.

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I did that w/ my last three 5030's........only I used a gas stovetop.

They were Bourque retails, but I turned them into some ugly Bourque/Hull twist.

They're absolutely great for ball hockey, but I can't stickhandle a puck to save my life w/ this curve.

I just about always tinker w/ wood blades/sticks, sometimes out of boredom or just curiousity.

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Some years ago I did that to most of my wood blades. The old Christian Puckmaster were perfect for customizing...they wouldn´t break or get too soft.

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Before I got my customs I would always tinker with Easton and Christians to get a good pattern going. Christians just tore apart too easy to begin with but Eastons were mint. Just heat them up, stick them under a door and torque them into wedges.

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I had very good luck modifying the old Branches blades. I still have a couple of the bigger hooks laying around here.

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i've tweaked some easton wooden prostock blades and have generally been successful. i still have a tendency of the fiberglass seperating from the wood in the spot i heated when i twist the blade

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When I played high school all patterns came in two formats. Ugly and Uglier. That being the case I became pretty good at recreating curves and sanding / shaving the toes and heels of blades.

I use to have to spend way to much time modifying sticks. Thank God from pro returns.

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is it possible to alter the lie of a blade without doing too much damage to it? the best easton pro stock blades i could fine came in a 6 or so lie, and i'd prefer aa 5-5.5. is there a way to cut the bottom down or sand it to change it, or will this just fray the bottom out completely

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can you do it with the easton hybrid blades?

You could give it a try but generally blades with any composite in them lose a ton of durability. I tried it on a composite blade and it broke in a few shots.

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thats because of the foam core. Im just wondering if the hybrid blade has that. I think ill try it tho cuz I cannot shoot with an yzerman and hit the net.

I think its also because the material that the composite blades are made of become really brittle after they are (re)heated, I dont know if it has to do with the foam core.

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On Sher-woods, I take goof-off (same as goo-gone) and rub it along the shaft, it takes the ink off, but smudges so it looks "antiqued" I just like how it looks :P .

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On my old Itechs I would spraypaint the bottom chrome, put a sweet curve on it and grip it until it was pitch black.

On my Synthesis I painted it silver so it olny says Synthesis on it.

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has anyone tried filing down a composite blade?

I don't have an extra one laying around but I'd like to modify the lie on some of composite blades and was curious if anyone has done it if it affects the performance.

thanks in advance.

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I just heat it slowly over an open flame. If you have a torch you can use that too but to prevent burning the blade I don't let it touch the flame.

I keep it a safe distance away and let the blade heat slowly. Rotate and move it around so it heats evenly and you don't burn one spot.

Do this til it feels pliable. It might be hard to tell when this is cuz it won't turn to putty.

When you go to shape it, go slowly so you don't break the blade.

I've never done this but if you're gonna tweak a woodie replacement blade, I'd try putting it in the oven (on some foil or something) at a moderate temperature for a while.

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when i used my si core shaft i spray-painted the wood blade and part of the shaft i did this to a few shafts.

i use a heat gun to heat my blade up . i wouldnt put it in the oven you might start a fire. before i got my heat gun i would use the burner on my stove and i would burn my blades.

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