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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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SE16, ST's and a lot of the S range (S5, S11, S15 etc) are the Easton ones I have done like this. You can't do this to the elliptcal profile sticks like S19's and RS and no one has ever given me a S17 to fix and I haven't got my hands on a broken Mako, yet.

As to earlier Easton sticks I wouldn't know.

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Cut down the AI9 & it takes a tapered blade for anyone interested

Going to start this now...any pointers?

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Going to start this now...any pointers?

Afraid I had to use trial & error until the hole size was correct. Maybe mine was slightly different because it's a pro stock but there was a hard, dense foam in the bottom section of the shaft.

Sorry if this doesn't help much but I don't know what to recommend

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SE16, ST's and a lot of the S range (S5, S11, S15 etc) are the Easton ones I have done like this. You can't do this to the elliptcal profile sticks like S19's and RS and no one has ever given me a S17 to fix and I haven't got my hands on a broken Mako, yet.

As to earlier Easton sticks I wouldn't know.

I cut a couple of S17's but I had to cut way up and put in a long plug.

IMG_20120429_190025Large.jpg

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Is this the same for most Easton sticks?

This works with the SE16, EQ50, Mako, ST, Synergy Elite, Synergy SL.

All "fused" OPS will work this way. I have never tried it with any of the sticks lower in the line. I dont know if the higher content of fiberglass will impact the success rate.

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I don't know if this has been mentioned before in the thread but I'm to lazy to read 33 pages :) so can I heat and pull out the blade of my dolo spyne hd

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I don't know if this has been mentioned before in the thread but I'm to lazy to read 33 pages :) so can I heat and pull out the blade of my dolo spyne hd

Well at least you admit you are lazy! :laugh: Type spyne at the top where it says search this topic.

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Cut down the AI9 & it takes a tapered blade for anyone interested

AI9 was one of the easiest ones I have done. Done 3 now (thank God for AHL teams) and each one took relatively little chiseling and I didn't have to cut very high.

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Hey guys, I have an old mission fuel ops, not the fuel ti, the one before that. The blade is cracked but the shaft is basically new.

Is it just a case of cutting the blade off and sticking in a standard blade? Or will it be a taper job?

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I think with the Fuel OPS, you can convert it to a tapered shaft, but you'll have to cut higher up, which means a longer end plug, UNLESS you can get one of the long hosel tapered blades.

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I read that the One95 can be cut and salvaged. Mine is getting eaten at the toe so am considering the process once it breaks. Is it a straight cut and fit for a tapered blade or should I expect a higher cut for a standard?

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I just converted an APX for a buddy of mine. I cut 2.25" below the T in the Textreme logo by the lower Bauer logo. Since it was my buddies, I only inserted a blade (no glue/tape) and it fit with only a tiny amount of wiggle. Should be fixed by 1) gluing or 2) one strip of tape max.

What size hosel does this take? Tapered?

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Conversion complete, ended up just making it a ball/roller stick. Quite blade heavy but that was expected, and happy with the results.

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Got a pro stock dolomite that I can't seem to heat and pull the blade out of. I have gotten blades out of 3 pro stock dolomite shafts before easily. This one will not budge! I need to keep the shaft in useable form without charring it too badly. Help!

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Is the blade salvageable on an One95? I'm tempted to take on the blade and put in a different one as I can't get used to the p14 curve.

No. It is not fused.

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ok so i cut the blade off my dolomite spyne hd and i managed to chisel out the tenon but a tapered blade wouldn't fit. So I cut another 3/4 of an inch and it still would not fit how much higher roughly will i have to cut?

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ok so i cut the blade off my dolomite spyne hd and i managed to chisel out the tenon but a tapered blade wouldn't fit. So I cut another 3/4 of an inch and it still would not fit how much higher roughly will i have to cut?

How thick are the remaining walls? Are you sure you can't get another thin layer chiseled out?

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have salvaged a couple of warrior ops blades from snapped shafts in the past, cut high on the fuse point then used a grinder to thin down the shaft material, soon the joint and construction becomes visible and after grinding almost all the shaft material away i am left with a blade which can be epoxied into a rescued shaft.

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