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Cool so we get to hear the story just one more time.

For me if I went total customs route I would get added comfort liner and larger toe cap. If it happens to be a touch too large I don't have a problem adding 1-2mm of foam to decrease the negative space. Personally, I rather add a bit of foam which would add comfort than try to punch or stretch an area in the toe box junction. I actually did spot heat the junction with my skates and created more room for my pinky however it didn't work that great because the actual toe cap an clip was extremely hard to modify. The carbon right where it meets the toecap wasn't the problem as that heats up well and is extremely mouldable. What ends up happening is that the carbon and toe cap don't expand at the same rate creating even more fit issues and more discomfort bc the plastic toe cap clip/rivet ends up sticking out even more bc or the discrepancy. Not sure if that makes sense but that's what I experienced. What ended up working ok and what I settled with was adding the liner on that area. Putting the skate on and tied it up. Spot heated the area with a heat gun and stood on the skate to add weight and also used my hands to push down in that area. Nothing too crazy but enough to accommodate the added liner without it making my foot feel like it's squished.

Hi guys. I’m on my skates (custom Vapors) every day and tried to get into VH and then True on two separate occasions. Both times I felt like I was too far forward on my toes when pivoting as a defenseman. I loved the fit and the response of the skate. Ive spoken to a veteran member on here about profiling and flattening the steel (currently at 9.5/10.5). I’ve also heard of lifts being used in the front. Has anyone else struggled to transition? Was it the profile of the steel or was it the cut of the boot that angled you for forward flexion? Any recommendations or insights are appreciated. Thanks!

I have a 1510 1650 for mine but I didn't try using the shipping foam. Pelican makes pick-and-pluck foam for the 1510 1650 and other models - making it very easy to customize a perfect fix for your Sparx. colins

Mine arrived at work today, sent Monday evening from Sweden via Denmark, Germany and Belgium to England. What struck me is the sheer weight and size of the box. It’s very heavy. Back home it took me 30 minutes to unpack it, align the wheel, and sharpen my skates. A slight adjustment was needed, and my BAT gauge shows the edges are near perfect. I skated on them this evening, no complaints at all. They are good. I am impressed with the weight of the unit, and the quality feel. Yes it’s partly made out of plastic, but the quality is very high. Alignment is easy. Sharpening is very easy. I left it to take three cuts and prepared dinner. They appear to have ‘ripped off’the ProSharp unit, but in so doing they’ve made huge improvements to the ease of use. And massively reduced the price. The official travel case is a Pelican 1510. Does anyone know if the foam in the packing box can be used in a stock 1510 case?

Just for you buddy!

So far I have the elbows and shoulders (top of line versions) and really like them both as good values. Perfectly happy with elbows, and mostly like the shoulder pads outside of how they rest on my collarbone. Definitely a fan of the line. Looking to try shins next!

I don't get many photos of myself since I'm usually the one taking them (I'm a league photographer and shoot photos between shifts in games I'm playing in), but every now and then a teammate grabs my camera and manages to catch me (I've slowly been trying to train a few guys haha).

I’m rather surprised Sparx haven’t mentioned this given that I’ve been gnawing at their ankles over the last year, but the Sparx machines and accessories are now available in Europe from Monkey Sports in Sweden, about £1200 including shipping and VAT. The price is not unreasonable. Mine is in transit as I write. Last time I checked they still had stock.

M Reebok HP CCM 30/35/70 made overseas 520/7000 Made in Canada HP35 =520 HP45=RBZ HPUCLP=U+Crazy Light X models have waist zippers to add +1 C models use Ufoam P models use PE inserts

Another small victory: played goal at drop in today. New exercise regimen has paid off as I was nowhere nearly as winded as normal when playing. I let in a few muffins, but it’s not like I get to play all that regularly at this point.

This. If you want to keep it looking pretty, use a piece of leather to hone the edges after sharpening. Or just don't hone it at all. The "residue" left over from sharpening should come off of the steel as soon as you begin skating.