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jonesy9020

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jonesy9020 last won the day on May 27 2015

jonesy9020 had the most liked content!

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Equipment

  • Skates
    Bauer Supreme One.7
  • Stick
    Warrior DT1 or Mako Shaft/APX2 Blade combo
  • Gloves
    Eagle X72
  • Helmet
    Bauer 7500
  • Pants
    Easton 85s
  • Shoulder Pads
    Itech something old
  • Elbow Pads
    Bauer Supreme 6000
  • Shin Pads
    Bauer Supreme 8000

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    Male
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  1. Agree with Althoma. The Shifts are second to top of the line skates, while everything else is entry level or lower mid-range. Provided they fit, the Shift is a no-brainer from that list. I recently picked up Teams on clearance and they're quite comfortable. Initially I thought they were rather boxy and wide in the forefoot, but they're comfortable after a bake. Alkali's sizing is a little strange. If it helps, I typically wear a 9 in Bauers and I'm in a 10.5 in Alkali. The X500s in particular will not be sufficient for you if you are a decent skater -- very soft boot.
  2. I've found the outside midfoot pressure issue easier to deal with in baking than issues in the arch. Prior to punching, which can seriously impact the durability of skates and make them prone to creasing, my first suggestion is to build up the area on your foot where you feel pressure with dense material -- I've found the felt sticky floor protector pads used on the bottom of kitchen chairs quite useful for this purpose. Stick them where it hurts, wrap with tape, put a sock on, and mold the skates after baking with the felt in the boot, lacing pretty tight. Generally it is also a good idea to stand up while molding for at least a minute (but don't move around). Alkali specifically recommends standing though other manufacturers do not. What you are describing with the unbearable pain sounds like it comes from a compressed arch. Typically this arises where the arch is misplaced in the boot relative to your foot and/or where the skate is not deep enough (you don't pass the pencil test) resulting in you tying too tight. If the culprit is arch placement, it may be worth looking into OTC orthotics like superfeet. The arch issue is very difficult to address even with professional skate fitting, as it tends not to show until you've been skating for 10 minutes or so. If the culprit is lack of depth, bulky orthotics will only make it worse.
  3. Recent convert to Alkali Teams after years on standard Hi-Los, most recently mounted on a beat up CCM U+12 ice boot. I've found the Alkali skates very comfortable, and I do feel that I can coast much longer with less rolling resistance, but feel I have lost the ability to accelerate quickly, and I feel much more back on my heels. I've mitigated this a little by skipping the top eyelet, but I still feel slower. To add to this, I am a longtime relatively unmodified Supreme user on ice, so I don't need an overly pitched-forward boot setup. I have never felt the need to skip an eyelet prior to the Alkalis, as I prefered the lateral stability from a full lace up over the slight increase in forward flex. In the Alkali, I feel like I'm in ski boots when laced up all the way, and like I have gobs of forward flex when one eyelet down. I found this particularly odd as the Alkali Teams are softer than my typical boot. Looking for suggestions on how to get some quickness back. Was thinking of mounting a hi-lo chassis on the alkali boot. Open to suggestions.
  4. Yes and no. It depends on the type of stick. In almost all cases, if the blade is removable at all, it will only fit tapered shafts, not standard. The only exception I know of to this is Also, in recent years, with the development of dagger (QR series, recent Vapors) and elliptical tapers (Stealth), and particularly with "true one-piece" construction (most top line sticks, regardless of brand) where the shaft runs right through to the blade hollow, lots of higher end sticks will not have any material in the hosel area at all, or if they do, it will not be properly shaped to fit any type of shaft. It's very tough to figure out through the marketing mumbo jumbo to figure out what will work and what won't. Based on the position in the line, and shaft geometry, my guess is that your 5092 blade can be salvaged. Best way to find out would be to stick a tape measure down till it hits the top of the hosel, mark that, then cut that length off the outside of the shaft. Then you should hopefully see a line delineating the difference between the hosel and the shaft, which you can start chipping away at. I'd pull another blade you have elsewhere to mark where the bottom of the tenon should go to.
  5. Ended up going with a late model Vapor X800 based on some convos between other members on here. Going to keep this open as there's a pretty noticeable lack of feedback on the board for both the EK40 and Stallion 400.
  6. Comps to the Sher-Wood EK40 would also be great. Yes, I know they're different kick point sticks -- doesn't matter quite as much for roller. More concerned about balance and blade feel.
  7. Hey everyone, Apologize for starting a specific product question thread, but couldn't find much feedback on this stick in existing forums/reviews with a search. After breaking my stick last night, an original True A5.2, I'm in the market for a replacement. The Stallion 400 at IW looks nice. At first glance I like that it's available in my preferred curve and flex (75 and p88 for roller -- find it does better on slapshots with the lighter flex and lighter puck combo). The weight at 459 is a little heavier than the A5.2, but is in the right wheelhouse. The price is my main attraction, as I'm not looking to spend more than $80 or so right now. Just looking for any user feedback -- is it particularly blade-heavy or well balanced? How's durability? Does it play true, stiff, or soft to advertised flex? How's blade feel? Also, it looks like standard shaft dimensions online, but want to make sure it doesn't change halfway down the shaft. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
  8. I think there are several factors that led to the demise of the smaller local hockey store, including product cycles that are WAY too fast for a brick and mortar inventory system, and the 20% discount world of big box stores, but I think the small store's (generally speaking, not all stores) response to the advent of online stores played a serious role in contributing to their demise. To put this in perspective, I think I need to describe what my experience was going to buy skates about 15 years ago. I drove about 20 minutes to my local store, sat down, and tried on probably 5-7 pairs of skates. I talked to the owner about his thoughts on all the models. He would tell me honestly any issues or strengths he'd seen with previous purchases of a particular brand or model. I'd make a choice based on the comfort of the skate and the feedback they gave me, pay for the skate, and I'd get my first bake and sharpen covered. If I had fit issues and needed a second bake or a boot punch, they'd cover it. If a rivet or eyelet came loose, it would be replaced for free. Fast forward 5 years. When I go in the store, the kid who's fitting me seems disinterested and unknowledgeable. They don't know anything about the different skates but tell me the Vapor is lighter than anything else out there. I tell them my budget and they push me to go above it. "Fitting" is putting my foot in a Brannock device and then just giving me a stack of boxes to try on. Sharpening is a separate charge. Baking is a separate charge. Rivets cost $2 a pop. $3 for copper. The owner of the store was still great, and, when he was there, he did everything the way he used to for me. But he'd delegated to kids who didn't know/care about customer service. He's given them rules to use for these different services that really shouldn't apply to skates bought in store. It does NOT cost you $30 to run a small oven at a low temperature for 10 minutes. Particularly when I just bought full price skates that you're getting a good margin on. The response of this store, and several others, was to make up the competitive disadvantage that they had versus online retailers by nickel and diming players. And the players left. Frankly, if the stores had done this ONLY for customers who bought product elsewhere but brought it in for different services, I would have been more than okay with it. If you'd rather save a few bucks than support the guy around the corner, then that's your call and I won't condemn anyone for it, but you can't expect the guy running the store to do you any favors in that situation. But they did it across the board. Ultimately, I started to buy skates online because I felt 1) the service at the store was not a good enough value to merit the increase in cost, and 2) the store failed to demonstrate to me that they valued my business. I got so used to this nickel and dime attitude that I was truly shocked when I walked into a Total Hockey last year and they replaced two loose rivets for me for free. I was shocked when my first bake and sharpen were on the house. I couldn't believe that they would replace my snapped helmet hardware at no cost. I still wasn't thrilled with the fitting assistance, but at least I did not feel that the employees were trying to squeeze every last nickel out of me. It's ridiculous to think that these minor, low cost services were what swayed me, but they did. I also wondered why they did it. The skates and helmet I had repaired were not purchased at TH. Ultimately, I ended up going back to TH to buy skates because of the good experience, but I'm not sure that most people would do the same. I think this was a minor hole in the TH business model that pales in comparison to their overexpansion and use of storefronts with way too much retail space, but I think it was a hole nonetheless. While THs prices were competitive, I don't know that I ever saw them have better prices than some of the major online retailers. I firmly believe that there were a number of people who went to TH to get fitted, left, bought at a lower price online, and brought the skates back to be baked for free. The end of this for me comes down to how to "fix" the brick and mortar store model. The problems to me seem to be the following: 1) Fast product cycle turnover and the need to stock a wide variety of sizes, flexes, patterns, etc. in each model. 2) Having to buy in sufficient quantity to get a shipping discount good enough to make sustainable margins 3) Having to have a storefront large enough to fit all this inventory. The solution, to me, seems to be a co-op of sorts. Here's what I envision. 1) Smaller hockey retailers merge buying power and create a purchasing company, with each shop as a shareholder, to stock some low-rent warehouse in the middle of nowhere with tons of product. Since they are now buying for several stores across the country, they can get bulk and shipping discounts that were previously unavailable when they were simply stocking their own shelves. 2) Actual storefronts shrink in both physical size and on-site inventory. The brick and mortar location becomes more of an interface than a store. Think Apple store. Everything's on display for you to touch and play around with, but the product you end up receiving is usually ordered online and shipped to you a few days later. There's a model of each stick/skate/glove available for you to try out, but you do not leave the store with the item, and while there's an example of each pattern and each model for you to pick up and hold, that particular stick stays at the store. 3) Keep 1 pair of every skate model in each size available in the (much smaller) stock room. You have enough for everyone to try on, and you're not stuck with massive quantities of old product that you can't sell when a new model is inevitably introduced. When you find a pair that fits, the store places an order for you, which is delivered from the warehouse to the store or the customer's address. 4) Deposit for fitting. $20 (or some other number that is proven to be low enough that people will pay it and high enough to protect your profit margin from vultures). If you buy a pair, it is applied against the total cost of the skates. If you don't, the store keeps the deposit. 5) Loyalty card provided on purchase that gives you free servicing of rivets, eyelets, and free baking for the life of the skate. Voucher for 10 (or some other number that is statistically optimizes business generation while reducing cost) free sharpenings. Keep them coming back. These stores would cost less to lease, operate and staff, would provide a better experience to the customer because a particular model/size would never be "out of stock," and would drastically reduce the problem of overstocking old inventory. They'd also be far less cluttered and more visually appealing. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts/criticisms of the model. Certainly it would take a lot of coordination, but it does not seem impossible. I admit that there's something to be said for people wanting to walk into a store and walk out with gear in their hands, but I think if the retailer provided enough reasons (e.g. free services with some kind of loyalty card that you get when buying the gear), people would like it and come aboard. It goes without saying, but best wishes to JR in this transitional phase. EDIT: It's been about three years since I learned antitrust law, but I am concerned that there could be an appearance of non-competitive practices between competing retailers. Thinking of the Topco case, but again its been 3 years. If anyone has some narrower insight on the legal implications that'd be great.
  9. Agree with Kovalchuk on all those options. I'd add the True A5.2 in there if you're willing to spend similar to the S180. Phenomenal, very well balanced stick. I've also found that it has a bit more of the "pop" factor that you get with top-end sticks.
  10. Easton's flexes drive me batty. I had a 75 flex Intermediate OG Synergy that was probably the best flexing stick I ever owned. I eventually sold it and I regret it. I got a 75 flex EQ50, which I though would be similar flex as it's in the same mid-flex family. It's a noodle by comparison. I have an 85 flex mako tapered shaft that feels much more similar to the OG Synergy 75 flex. I've also played with a recent 75 flex HTX and thought it was pretty similar to the original Synergy. Long story short, it seems like there's no consistency across the board from Easton.
  11. APX2s are way better than any other skate you mentioned, but may not be the right fit for your foot. Any pressure points you felt in the Vapors you tried would be especially problematic in the APX2 as they're extra stiff and problem areas would be intensified. They're moldable, but they're not as flexible, particularly in the lower quarters, as a Mako or Ribcor. If you came close to fitting in Vapor D-width, then you definitely do not need a Nexus. If the Vapor you were close in was an EE, than a Nexus D-width may be an option. I'd trust the sales rep you had. The Nexus like is significantly wider than the Supreme or Vapor lines.
  12. Received the stick last night and was in near-new condition. Shipping was fast and communication was excellent. Highly recommend dealing with bolt91!
  13. I generally go with older higher end sticks, but I picked up an RBZ130 recently for $60 on clearance and have been pretty impressed. Same would apply for the RBZ Maxx, RBZ 80, and RBZ 260 as they're all basically the same stick.
  14. Yes. It will feel very stiff at first, but you will eventually be able to accelerate quicker and turn sharper. It will also support your ankles far better than the One20. The 170 is a pretty solid sweet spot for a bump-up to a next level skate. Not so stiff that you're in pain but stiff enough to support you for somewhat competitive (beer league level) hockey.
  15. It's a somewhat heavier stick. The materials seem decent though. If he likes it, I say go for it. At 10 years old, he'll be growing quickly so you'll probably have to buy a new stick within a year anyway. At $39, if it doesn't work out you didn't lose much. That said, the 5052 is a better stick.
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