VegasHockey

I am sure someone will leak that info soon enough. Bookings for 2022 are being finalized this 12/1.

If you think Bauer has increased the cost of gear significantly, just wait for what CCM is doing in 2022...

Does it still work? I would totally buy it if it works and they aren't using it.

Love those things.

Ive tried everything. One of the benefits of owning a hockey shop 😉 TLDR: I prefer the FT4 Pro over the Hyperlite. However, I think the 100K is better than them both. I actually like the FT4 more than the FT4 Pro though as the slightly lower stiffness allows the boot to flex a little more. The FT4 Pro and Hyperlite are very different. FT4 Pro is very stiff, considerably stiffer than the Hyperlite all over. More forward flex in the Hyperlite than the FT4 Pro. FT4 Pro is significantly more responsive. Weight is about the same with standard steel. With the Carbonlite option, the Hyperlite is significantly lighter. I did not like the Carbonlite though. FT4 Pro foams seem better than the Hyperlite, I feel they actually mold better to your feet. Hyperlite didn't lock me in as well as the FT4 Pro. I like the liner better on the FT4 Pro, I would feel my heel slip slightly on hard pushes in the Hyperlite. I assume the monoframe boot also contributes to better fit. I didn't notice the fancy new outsole on the Hyperlite. Maybe because I used Flare instead of typical steel but the implied design of the new Hyperlite outsole was supposed to allow for more flexion and thus more grip. I felt nothing different or new. I didn't like the Hyperlite tongue. The tongue insert was painful for me. No lacebite, just overall was not comfortable and when in a deep knee bend I felt like it was digging into my forefoot. I also prefer the interchangeable tongue of the FT4 Pro.

I have the 14" gloves and have the the pre-released version and the final product ones. Love them! My favorite glove prior to these was the FT4 Pro and Vapor 2X Pro. Out of the box they feel like .5" smaller than they are rated. They fit like I expect, no slop, tight to the hand, plenty of room in the cuff for maneuverability. If the final product ones break-in like my pre-released ones you should expect them to slightly loosen when they break in.

I use this specific brand. Its cheap for two rolls. Very strong and stretchy. Amazon.com : Foretux Mini 2 Pack Stretch Wrap Film with Handle | (3.94" Wide X 1000 Ft.) Heavy Duty Industrial Plastic Wrap |Thickness 80 Gauge Shrink Wrap for Moving Furniture and Boxes : Office Products

Verified the discount with TRUE and everyone is correct. They are discounting for Black Friday, up to 20% on anything TRUE. Looks like we will be doing the sale as well 😉

Let me clarify. I think a genuine Pro Stock CCM/Bauer/Warrior/etc or a stick from http://prostockhockeysticks.com/ is better option than All Black (brand) stick or HSM Blackout (brand) stick. The quality, construction, balance point, feel, and pop are significantly better. Yes, sometimes you get a bad Pro Stock stick (CCM/Bauer/Warrior/etc) and it only lasts a few games, but that can happen if you buy a retail $300+ stick as well. We sell a ton of Pro Stock sticks and the ones that usually have limited life are the latest builds that are super light (FT3 Pro, Trigger 5 Pro, Vapor ADV, etc) and the failure rate of those sticks is no better or worse than the top tier sticks yet the cost if half the price. If someone breaks their stick within the first 30-45 days and it looks like a genuine failure we usually work with the buyer and provide them a new stick at a significant discount. Has stick construction changed significantly in the last 15 years? Debatable. Weight has gone down due to flatter carbon weave, less resin and updated procedures but I don't consider these changes to be revolutionary. The Sherwood Rekker EK15 was released in 2014 and its sequel the EK60 both weighed under 385 grams. Thats less than the current Bauer Nexus Geo and Hyperlite. There is a very limited amount of technology that can be incorporated into stick shafts, you remove weight by using less materials which means less life in the stick. There is no way of getting around that. No fancy carbon weave, layering process, or magical resin is going to change this. Look at the failure rate of low end sticks vs high end sticks and you will see a direct correlation.

Are you sure about this? The TF7 and TF9 should still be covered by MAP.

Most of the customers/players I know who got them said they are decent, but have swapped to other skates or switched back to their previous skate. I tested them and they seem ok. Nothing special or significant stood out to me. Positives: Updated lacing system allow for more forward flex Updated liner and foams are nicer than previous generations Negatives: Carbon Curv doesn't seem durable, many of the Hyperlite skates that come into the shop are in bad shape. Updated tongue has a very stiff insert that many people find uncomfortable Carbonlite runner (optional) is trash. Stay away from it. Neutal: Updated outsole is supposed to allow more flexion and torsional flex. I did not notice this when testing them. Skate is supposedly lighter than previous generations. While it does weigh less than the 2X Pro, its heavier than the 1X. We are talking about a very small margin, so that that with a grain of salt.

Pro Blackout sticks from HSM are decent. I would however go with a Pro Stock stick at the same price point any day.

50% of the time the toe cap on the new Bauer doesn't respond well to punching. Where the cap attaches to the boot or the actual plastic itself can become compromised. Can you share a picture of the exact spot bothering you?

Very similar however the P90TM is slightly taller than the P90T.

I think if you are comparing his $160USD stick to the "big brands" sticks at or near the same price point, his sticks are significantly better. I agree, they aren't as good as a GEO, Project X, FT4 Pro, Trigger 6 Pro, AS4 Pro, etc. but at nearly half the cost they are pretty fantastic. If I had to choose between a Hyperlite and one his sticks, I would take his stick 100% of the time. Then again, I absolutely hate the Hyperlite, lol.

He is legit. Sticks are very good! Nice balance, pop, weight distribution! I would rate his sticks just as good as a top of the line CCM/Bauer/Warrior.

The build code is printed on the stick shaft.

Then I would reach back out to him. Only he would be able to pull information on your build code to determine the construction. Sounds to me like they change your blade construction between the two builds. Can you confirm both batches of sticks have the same build codes?

Who did you order them from?

These work well for what you are wanting: https://www.orthoticshop.com/sole-softec-ultra-moldable-orthotics.html

Yes, this is common on CCM and Bauer skates when players select clarino liners. The liner doesnt soak up water and instead repels it which creates condensation and the rivets rust. Selecting a fabric liner helps with this. Its nearly impossible to get TRUE skates without holders mounted. Obviously, not having to drill holes is always preferred. Trust me, no pro shop enjoys removing a holder, drilling more holes and mounting a new holder. Its very stressful. One mistake or broken drill bit and the whole skate is ruined. I actually had a drill bit snap on me a month ago when mounting Marsblade holders and the broken portion of the bit attached to the drill slit my hand open like a razor. It was terrible.

Bauer is quoting 45 days.

Yes and no. The heel of the Hyperlite is a unique construction so you cannot fill those with epoxy. The forefoot uses standard carbon fibre. I would almost recommend building a very thin shim to sit between the heel of the holder and the outsole if you are going to drill new holes to mount the holder. Anytime people tell me they want oversized holder on top of the line skates I always ask them "why didn't you just go custom?" A custom skate would have given you the option for a +1 holder and then you wouldn't have to tweak the structure of the skate.

Yes, you can do it. However you cannot use the existing front or rear holes, because then the holder would then not mounted in the center of the boot. Make sense?

I know these skates. I did the swap. The rivets we use are sourced from Blademaster and Blackstone, they are industry standard. Not sure why you have rust if you air them out properly after every skate. One of those rivets looks definitely like it's pulling through the boot. Happy to replace it or your local shop can replace it. Looks like one of the rivet teeth broke off allowing the rivet movement and then it sheared itself apart. Some rivets have washers on them to minimize movement since we swapped the Shift holder with a CCM holder and the holes were slightly larger. I didn't want the holder to have too much play otherwise it would wiggle itself loose and once the holder starts to shift all of the rivets will slowly loosen and pull themselves apart. I also didn't want to put in 10 copper rivets either....