VH Footwear/TRUE by Scott Van Horne

[flip12 715]

Some upgrades!

Black Velocity Step Steel profiled by No-Icing Sports -- 8" toe -12" heel radius, 5/8" hollow with a minor forward pitch

Plasti-dipped toecap (done by myself -- pretty easy to do with some time, patience, and correct materials)

Thanks for another detailed update on your VH upkeep. I'm curious, what did you find was good to do and good to use for the self-Plasti-Dipped toe cap? I want to do that to my MLX before they get heavily worn.

[mc88 160]

Thanks for another detailed update on your VH upkeep. I'm curious, what did you find was good to do and good to use for the self-Plasti-Dipped toe cap? I want to do that to my MLX before they get heavily worn.

Materials used (most of the materials can be found at Home Depot or hardware store and shouldn't be more than $30 in total):

- Performix Plasti-Dip

- Scotch Blue Painters Tape 2093 EL

- X-Acto Knife

- Kimberly Clark Purple Nitrile Exam Gloves or similar disposable gloves

- Any sort of Rubbing Alcohol

- Any sort of Scrap Paper (I used printer paper)

- Any sort of Rag, Cloth or Paper Towel

Process:

1. Remove the tongues and laces from the boots -- You can leave the screw on the top of the toe-cap in -- I just sprayed on top of it and left the coating on the screw anyway
2. Scotch Blue tape the entire perimeter of the toe-cap -- I found it better to tape up to the edges of the synthetic sewn pieces and not worry about the thin side-walls -- also, if your skate is like mine where a bit of holder sticks out in the front, then shove a piece of tape in sideways in between the holder and boot to keep it from leaking onto the top of the holder -- use the side of the x-acto knife to push the tape flat on the holder
3. Scotch Blue tape some scrap paper around the entire boot/holder/runner to block off areas of over-spray -- I found that if it does hit the holders/runners/synthetic pieces, then it's easy to remove by scrubbing with a DRY paper towel after it dries
4. Put on the nitrile gloves and then tape a piece of scrap paper around your left forearm (or non-dominant arm) and over the wrist part of the glove to block over-spray!
5. Pour some rubbing alcohol on to a cloth/rag/paper towel and thoroughly wipe down the toe cap. Let it dry for a few minutes
6. Shake the plasti-dip can for about a minute and then with your non-dominant hand, hold the boot tilted upward and out in front of you, so that you're looking at the underside of the toe-cap
7. With a back and forth sweeping motion, spray the plasti-dip 8-10 inches away from the boot. Start from the bottom of the toe-cap and work your way upward -- Look for an even wet shine across the toe-cap; It should not be drippy, runny nor have gaps/holes in the coating... again EVEN
8. Repeat same spraying process for the the other skate
9. Wait 10-15 minutes (or 30 minutes depending on how your climate is) before applying another coat -- If you want to know when the coat is dry, look for an even matte finish. Nothing will be shiny!
10. Continue to apply a minimum of 6-10 coats with 10-30 minute drying breaks in between -- I applied 6 coats, however, after a practice session I noticed there was some that got scratched off by a skate, BUT still not flakey
11. After the final layer has been applied, wait 4 hours for it to completely cure
12. After curing, take your X-acto knife and score around the entire toe-cap to release the plasti-dip from the side-walls and tape
13. Carefully remove the tape, if you notice any plasti-dip coming up with the tape, cut it down the center with the X-acto knife -- I did a technique of pulling the tape up with my left hand while running the x-acto blade behind it with my right hand
14. If you have any major mistakes or flakiness, start over. Peel off the plasti-dip like you would a sticker, then repeat the steps above but add more drying time and increase the distance of the spray from the toe-cap
15. If all went well, then go hit the ice, your toe-cap is plasti-dipped!

Edited December 13, 2014 by mc88

[Monty22 833]

Truck bed liner may hold up better. There are a few smooth spray can options out there.

[mc88 160]

Truck bed liner may hold up better. There are a few smooth spray can options out there.

Dip Coat offers a spray that is supposed to make plasti-dipped surfaces more durable. However, haven't tried it yet.

https://www.dipyourcar.com/Dip-Coat-Spray.html

- Protects Dipped Surfaces from surface scratches and marring

- Creates a smoother, slicker, less rubbery feel of dipped surfaces

- Enhances colors and pearl finishes of dipped surfaces

- Daily UV protection - Protects dip from staining

- Makes dipped surfaces easier to wash

I think what's nice about this stuff is that it's super user friendly, so if you mess up, you can always take it off and start over.

Edited December 9, 2014 by mc88

[flip12 715]

Excellent, thank you!

[iceman8310 106]

when I ordered mine i went for the coated toe

[Monty22 833]

Same here.

[shooter27 116]

Scott is only using the 3D tracing for speed skating boots. When I met up with him this time last year he was doing a trace for a national speed skater. I inquired about it for my funky shaped feet and he said that it doesn't produce the best results for hockey.

I asked him about the scanning and he said the scanning ends up creating a boot that has a heavily contoured outsole which makes a hockey holder not sit right on the outsole.

[chinglechingle 0]

Just got my VH skates today. I got my tracings done through a sales rep for VH in my area. I have a few questions. I noticed my big toe touches the inside of the toe cap. I know the fit is supposed to be tight, so was just wondering if others' toes touch the inside of the cap. I also noticed that there is a hole drilled through the heel part of the sole, for easy changing of runners in the LS2 holders. Is this something that Scott does or is this something the sale rep did when he put in the runner?

[mc88 160]

Just got my VH skates today. I got my tracings done through a sales rep for VH in my area. I have a few questions. I noticed my big toe touches the inside of the toe cap. I know the fit is supposed to be tight, so was just wondering if others' toes touch the inside of the cap. I also noticed that there is a hole drilled through the heel part of the sole, for easy changing of runners in the LS2 holders. Is this something that Scott does or is this something the sale rep did when he put in the runner?

You want your toes to ideally scrape the cap, but it shouldn't feel squished or give you any discomfort. If you there is any discomfort, mark where it hurts/squeezes your foot inside the boot, and send it back to Scott so he can punch it out. Depending on your shipping method, typical turn around time is 1-2 weeks (including shipping days).

The hole under the heel is pretty standard/normal for a LS2 holder. It's so that you can change the runners. Unless you have a TUUK Edge, Graf UL5000 or a Reebok SB4.0 (E-Pro) holder, then no hole is required as you can release the runner via a trigger or by accessible external screws. What's nice is that Scott's drilled out hole is much smaller than what you'll find on most boots. Here is a pair of prostock Bauer Vapor skates with LS2 holders (notice the larger hole):

Edited December 13, 2014 by mc88

[mc88 160]

Little update:

Love the Black Step Steel. The profiling I got took a bit of time to get used to in terms of finding the balance point, but after an hour... butter. After 3-4 practice sessions at an hour and half each, the runners still look clean and sharp as if they just came off the sharpening wheel. Will update in a month or so to see if the steel still has its edges and polished finish.

After 3-4 practice sessions at an hour and half each, the plasti-dipped coated toecaps are showing signs of wear on the inside of the toe-cap; however, despite multiple scrapes/dings, the untouched areas are still holding strong. I think once the coating gets really, really scratched up, then I'll take it off completely, apply 10 coats this time, and use the protective, anti-marring Dip Coat spray. But, as of now, not necessary.

Edited December 13, 2014 by mc88

[IPv6Freely 2094]

when I ordered mine i went for the coated toe

What's that?

[jimmy 194]

Great!

The combination 8-12' radius is just the shop have a metal mold of that or change 2 molds at half point by the hands?

I want to hear how do you feel the profiling.

No, the template is not 2 of them, one template with a seamless blend of the 2 radius.

[Mimizk 114]

No, the template is not 2 of them, one template with a seamless blend of the 2 radius.

Oh... so they have many of metal mold each kinds of radius option which they publish on website.

Amazing.

I'm wondering which contouring machine are they using.

Anyway, for example if they use Bladmaster machine, Blademaster doesn't produce such combination or variation for their general line up of Custom Radius metal mold.

Also Blademaster provides custom order of metal mold though, I think it must be not cheap prices...

I feel I want to use the shop someday...

[Monty22 833]

What's that?

Prior to ordering mine, I inquired about toe box options, this was the response: "We do apply a hard black toe coating to some of our pros' skates."

Seems to be holding up pretty well.

[IPv6Freely 2094]

Prior to ordering mine, I inquired about toe box options, this was the response: "We do apply a hard black toe coating to some of our pros' skates."

Seems to be holding up pretty well.

Ah that's cool, thanks!

[Mimizk 114]

Prior to ordering mine, I inquired about toe box options, this was the response: "We do apply a hard black toe coating to some of our pros' skates."

Seems to be holding up pretty well.

I've noticed that I can't find screw head on your skate.

How does velcro work?

[Hank_33 9]

I've noticed that I can't find screw head on your skate.

How does velcro work?

was wondering that too. the screw on the toebox is the one thing that always bothered me in vh's design

[Monty22 833]

was wondering that too. the screw on the toebox is the one thing that always bothered me in vh's design

From what I can tell the bolt head has composite/plastic over it. I can feel the nut underneath if I run my fingers across the inside of the toecap.

[lohnman 0]

The screw is still there its just under the thick coat of epoxy.

[Davetronz 109]

When I was thinking of dipping or spraying my toes, I wanted to preserve the screw/hole. I've had to replace a velcro strip (skate cut), and I've lost my screw a couple times. I wish that screw wasn't there though!

[mc88 160]

When I was thinking of dipping or spraying my toes, I wanted to preserve the screw/hole. I've had to replace a velcro strip (skate cut), and I've lost my screw a couple times. I wish that screw wasn't there though!

Try really cranking down on that screw to tighten it up if you haven't already done so. After I did this, I didn't have anymore screws coming loose.

[Larry54 243]

Try really cranking down on that screw to tighten it up if you haven't already done so. After I did this, I didn't have anymore screws coming loose.

I've done this and have never lost a screw while skating. Mine are the socket head type for an Allen key so it's easier to really tighten compared to a Philips head type. Otherwise you can put blue loc-tite on the screw threads.

[Monty22 833]

I would be careful about over tightening- you could crack the composite toe box.

[Mimizk 114]

I think it's better to use something like Lock-Tight.