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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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Can a Rebok 10K be converted? If so, what does it take? tapered, I assume, but I know what happens when I assume. 65$ down the drain

I've done about five 10k's. Four of them I cut above the fuse point and stuck in standard blades and added a wood plug on the end (they were long to start with and I was lazy) and they work beautifully. One I spent the time on at the fusepoint and it took a tapered blade.

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I've heard pro stock 10k's are easily converted. Not sure about retail 10K. You'll need a tapered blade.

stop

I doubt you would be able to heat and pull it

It's the Pro Stock A1T, which is a true One piece. The blade is flimsy and I want to convert it, the shaft is nice and grippy. I can't heat and pull it because it is a true one piece, but I see a bubble where it looks like a 2 piece. Should I go by the stamp (A1T) or cut near the bump? I dont wanna lose the entire shaft

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My A2C 10Ks were real one piece sticks. all I did was cut low on the shaft and put a tapered blade right in.

It's pretty easy to tell if it's a fused stick. tap on the area where you think it's fused. it will make a different noise than the rest of the shaft if it's fused.

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Anybody think it'd be possible to pull the blade out of a one95 and reuse it? It's a pro-stock and a I love the curve but I wanna try a lower flex.

one95 is a true OPS, there is no fuse point.

It's the Pro Stock A1T, which is a true One piece. The blade is flimsy and I want to convert it, the shaft is nice and grippy. I can't heat and pull it because it is a true one piece, but I see a bubble where it looks like a 2 piece. Should I go by the stamp (A1T) or cut near the bump? I dont wanna lose the entire shaft

if you cut low (on the bump), you can always make another cut. forget the heat and pull method, just chisel the tenon out.

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shotty: How did you convert an S19 OPS to a taperd shaft? I got my hands on a retail Easton S19 couple days ago. I removed the cap on top and slid down a measuring tape inside the shaft. Surprisingly it only went down 39", and it will go no further. Did you cut the blade and chisel out the inner shaft to fit a tapered blade?

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that is surprising. i just measured mine and its 49" even. i didnt do any chiseling, and to be honest, i lost at least 3/4" inch by cutting too high. maybe there's a piece of carbon blocking the tape measure from going deeper? i play my sticks at 63 3/4" (measuring from floor to knob with stick standing up), so with the height of the blade being ~12" and a 2 2/3" ext plug, its perfect... although i would usually prefer a shorter a plug, it actually balances the stick almost perfectly in this instance.

it's too bad i'm kind of falling out of favor with the S19 shaft shape.

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the cost of end plugs add up if you have a bunch of sticks, and they aren't exactly glamorous so I try to keep as many around as possible. if you're thinking about using the tops of the plugs, just tape off where you want the tenon to start, make a thin cut all the way around and use a chisel. sanding will take WAY too long, unless you have a belt sander.

Thanks alot shotty. That is exactly why i wanted to reuse em, i will give that a shot this weekend.

and videos of popular stick cutting would be nice. even pics maybe...

Edited by farhanshak

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Thanks alot shotty. That is exactly why i wanted to reuse em, i will give that a shot this weekend.

and videos of popular stick cutting would be nice. even pics maybe...

I'd make a video, but don't have any broken sticks.....Anyone want to send me one lol?

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For the record, I converted an S17 into a shaft/blade this week with a salvaged blade from an Octogun broken in the shaft.

The OG tenon is shaped like a running track and the S17 taper is more like a football, so it's not a 100% match but they paired pretty will together. Overall, I lost less than 2" on the shaft length.

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I'm worried that my hockey blade might be broken or breaking, and I was just wondering if I can just replace the blade on it. Its a one piece stick, a Warrior Hitman. If you can just cut off my old blade and stick in a new one what kind of blade would it need a standard or tapered blade? Also I havent read this whole thread but what is all this about the OPS blade tendon? are they in all OPS and how hard are they to get out to get the new blade to fit in?

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A lot of the One Piece Sticks are essentially blades put into shafts, just like a regular blade/shaft combo.

However, instead of glue that is easily heated, the 2 pieces are joined with a more "permanent" adhesive.

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I'm worried that my hockey blade might be broken or breaking, and I was just wondering if I can just replace the blade on it. Its a one piece stick, a Warrior Hitman. If you can just cut off my old blade and stick in a new one what kind of blade would it need a standard or tapered blade? Also I havent read this whole thread but what is all this about the OPS blade tendon? are they in all OPS and how hard are they to get out to get the new blade to fit in?

Was it worth heating the blade up ? :biggrin:

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Was it worth heating the blade up ? :biggrin:

I definately think so, it really isnt that bad. But for the future I know how to properly heat a composite blade, because I did it about 3 times trying to get the curve to stay. I didnt heat the blade up enough the first two times, I couldnt get it hot enough to make the composite material malleable, but for future I know to heat it up while still trying to make the curve. It still stood up to about a months worth of games and more because it isnt really broken but it does have some give to it when you try and move it with your hand, and when you really lean on your stick to take a shot the blade starts to straighten out on the ice. I dont consider it a waste or a loss, because like I said before that was the kind of curve I wanted and I got it, now I just need to cut the old one out and try get a replacement blade to fit in. If that doesnt work then I will consider it a waste and wrecked. :p

Also which blade will fit into the Hitman shaft a regular blade or a tapered? I went to my local hockey store and picked up a normal blade and it seem to line up with the line on the hitman of where they joined the blade and shaft, a tapered shaft didnt look wide enough or long enough. Was I right?

Edited by Led Head

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you should be able to see a line or bump, or some indicator where a blade would normally meet shaft. sometimes it is difficult to see exactly where the "fuse point" is but if you hazard an educated guess, you won't lose much. whether your shaft will take a standard or tapered blade depends on where you cut. if you look at your stick from a front perspective (toe of blade facing toward you) you should be able to see a taper. if you want to use a tapered blade, cut as low as you can as closest to the fuse point as possible. if you want to use standard blade, cut above the taper (what you lose in shaft length, you almost make up wholly in blade hosel length).

unless the tenon on your stick is hollow (very few are), chances are high that when you cut the old blade off at the fuse point, there will be a mass in the shaft that will prevent you from inserting the new blade. this is the tenon everyone talks about. the exception to this is if you cut high enough that the tenon is chopped off still intact with the blade.

there are a few ways to remove the tenon, they all require a bit of patience: 1. chisel it out, starting from the centermost point and working your way to the inner shaft walls. the tenon material is layered and relatively weak on it's own, so you'll tear through it easily if you take your time. you'll see a thin layer of "white" in between the tenon and the shaft wall, this is the adhesive holding the tenon to the shaft, when you get to this point you can either try to insert your new blade, file it away or use the chisel to chip it away. the inner shaft walls are pretty strong so you don't really need to worry about damaging the shaft unless you're careless. another way is to heat the tenon up from the outside and the inside, then forcing it either down the shaft and out the butt end or by trying to pop it out the hosel end with a long piece of re-bar or something of similar rigidity. obviously the length of the re-bar has to exceed the length of the shaft. heat, insert rebar and with one hand, hold the stick and pound the exposed end of rebar onto the ground.

I try to avoid the latter method because I feel that the amount of heat required to activate that white layer of adhesive is detrimental to the performance of the stick. it also works very well with some sticks and not well with others. for example:easy on TPS, difficult on Easton. may be the type of adhesive they use or possibly how they fuse the two pieces together.

when in doubt, leave yourself a bit of room for error. it's easier to make two cuts and get it right than to make one cut and lose out.

I hope that was detailed enough, let me know if you have any other questions.

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Ok guys so heres my problem, I bought a new blade for my stick, a bauer vapor X20 wood blade, and when i cut the blade off my old stick the hosel on the blade is almost the exact same size of the shaft. Meaning I would have to sand the hosel on the stick down the make it fit in the shaft, and I was just wondering if it would be worth it to sand the blade or just leave the blade and buy a shaft (Im looking at the Bauer Vapor X20 shaft. Plus with what I cut off the blade to make it the right height when I first got it plus what I cut of to try and but a new blade in it would make the flex around 115 i think, which would be way to stiff for me, so if I buy a new shaft I could get one at 85 which would be more suited for me.

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Ok guys so heres my problem, I bought a new blade for my stick, a bauer vapor X20 wood blade, and when i cut the blade off my old stick the hosel on the blade is almost the exact same size of the shaft. Meaning I would have to sand the hosel on the stick down the make it fit in the shaft, and I was just wondering if it would be worth it to sand the blade or just leave the blade and buy a shaft (Im looking at the Bauer Vapor X20 shaft. Plus with what I cut off the blade to make it the right height when I first got it plus what I cut of to try and but a new blade in it would make the flex around 115 i think, which would be way to stiff for me, so if I buy a new shaft I could get one at 85 which would be more suited for me.

If the X20 wood blade is a standard taper, you'll have to cut the ex-OPS higher up to make it fit. You'd be better off buying a tapered blade to fit the shaft without losing any more length.

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the problem is that people don't read, they just ask away. if he would have read the directions directly above his post, he would have known that he needed to cut above the taper to accommodate a standard blade.

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the problem is that people don't read, they just ask away. if he would have read the directions directly above his post, he would have known that he needed to cut above the taper to accommodate a standard blade.

true enough but no one answered me when I asked if the warrior Hitman was a tapered blade. So I assumed it was a standard shaft I couldnt find anything in a google search to answer that question either.

Edited by Led Head

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true enough but no one answered me when I asked if the warrior Hitman was a tapered blade. So I assumed it was a standard shaft I couldnt find anything in a google search to answer that question either.

You couldn't tell you needed a tapered blade by looking at the shaft and where the fuse point was?

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true enough but no one answered me when I asked if the warrior Hitman was a tapered blade.

that was in my post too (how to tell).

regardless, just cut higher until it fits. or as I said before, look at the front profile of the stick and you should be able to see where the taper starts.

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So I took my Pro Stock 10K and made it into a tapered shaft, stuck a P02 blade into it. (found it at pure Hockey). I will shoot with it monday, but seems solid so far

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My Mac Daddy broke a few weeks ago and I found myself a couple of taperd blades today, Had to cut about 10 inches up the shaft to stick a blade in. there was this spine like thing inside the shaft that was causeing my some issues, any way im gonna throw an extension inside the other end and see how it works after all this.

Later this summer I may have access to some broken 10K OPS. Is there a certain AT number that is easier to turn into a taperd shaft or are all 10K's the same.

thanks

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