Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[tml67 0]

cemetery: How long is the shaft after you cut off the blade? Also, did you cut off any shaft on the top when it was an OPS?

Is that a tapered blade in there now?

Thanks

[cemetery 14]

cemetery: How long is the shaft after you cut off the blade? Also, did you cut off any shaft on the top when it was an OPS?

Is that a tapered blade in there now?

Thanks

I cut off around 2 inches originally to bring it to 56", the shaft is now just about 47 1/8" long. I'll have to cut another inch off the butt, then insert the 4" plug and it'll be back to my length. And yes, it's a tapered blade in there now.

[shotty 7]

love those dolomite blades!

[tml67 0]

I cut off around 2 inches originally to bring it to 56", the shaft is now just about 47 1/8" long. I'll have to cut another inch off the butt, then insert the 4" plug and it'll be back to my length. And yes, it's a tapered blade in there now.

Thanks for the info.

Where can I get these Bauer composite extensions? I'll need to get an extension when it's time to cut the blade on my One95.

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

online stores and some lhs's have the extensions. Not sure who has them in canada

[puckhoggy 0]

hello from Russia, guys.

Yesterday I converted the SE16 grip with broken blade.

I did it this way:

1) found a fise point (I had to sand around)

2) Cuted at fuse line

3) heated with a heat-gun at 550C for about 5 minutes

4) used knife as a wedge between tenon and shaft (I was surprized by softness of tenon!)

5) I took a rebar with proper diameter (which freely went through the shaft) and pushed the tenon out through the shaft!

it was really easy, it took about 30 minutes to get a perfect tapered shaft, but it differs from stick to stick. Some sticks were really hard to convert and it can take up a day. Dolomite and SE16 were easy, but some SL's are really hard.

BEFORE (SE16):

IMG

AFTER (SE16) (spray paint silver metallic):

IMG

SO I have an Easton SE16 stick as well that broke at the blade this past summer. I am finally going to try to convert it into a 2 piece.

I noticed in other threads some cut the stick an inch above the fuse point, while others cut it at the fuse point. Which method is better or more reliable to have the best outcome in quality? And for those who have the SE16 converted, what tapered blade did you choose to go with?

thanks.

[fatwabbit 93]

SO I have an Easton SE16 stick as well that broke at the blade this past summer. I am finally going to try to convert it into a 2 piece.

I noticed in other threads some cut the stick an inch above the fuse point, while others cut it at the fuse point. Which method is better or more reliable to have the best outcome in quality? And for those who have the SE16 converted, what tapered blade did you choose to go with?

thanks.

IMHO i would cut an inch below the fuse line closer to the blade. That way if you f-up the cut, you still have a little play with and can slowly work your way down. Easier to have a longer shaft than to have a shorter shaft.

[puckhoggy 0]

IMHO i would cut an inch below the fuse line closer to the blade. That way if you f-up the cut, you still have a little play with and can slowly work your way down. Easier to have a longer shaft than to have a shorter shaft.

Darn. I got too hasty and did a cut at the fuse line.

On another note. Besides a heat gun and having a flat-head screw driver handy. What else do I need to complete the task.

Other than using a dremel, is a chisel just as good? Is there a particular sized chisel I should pick up?

If there is the foam in the fused area, do I just heat and pull it out? and then chisel the tennon? Does is slide out once heated and cut on one side?

thx!

[Xero117 7]

I got a broken Int. Synergy Elite and had partial success into turning it into a shaft. The main problem I have now is that the tapered SR blades I got don't fit, the width of the hosel is perfect but the height is just too tall to fit into the shaft. Do I cut even more off the shaft to make it fit? Currently have an altered wood blade that was chiseled and sanded down to fit into the shaft. Any suggestions?

[shotty 7]

Darn. I got too hasty and did a cut at the fuse line.

On another note. Besides a heat gun and having a flat-head screw driver handy. What else do I need to complete the task.

Other than using a dremel, is a chisel just as good? Is there a particular sized chisel I should pick up?

If there is the foam in the fused area, do I just heat and pull it out? and then chisel the tennon? Does is slide out once heated and cut on one side?

thx!

flat head screw driver really isnt going to help you all that much. chisel is the absolutely minimum. dremel is good too. as for chisel sizes, i bought a combo pack that came with 1/4", 1/2" and 1"... and i use them all. depending on the quality of the fusion and the epoxy used, sometimes all you have to do is hit around the edges to seperate the tenon fron the shaft then in the middle and it will slowly pop out the other side... sometimes you have to chip away from the middle to the outside edge. if there's foam, i just use plyers to pull it out before i start.

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

I've used a flat head screwdriver a bit each time I knock a tenon out. A chisel will be used more though.

[EvilPepe 24]

Sooo...gone through this process with a few TPS sticks, decided to chop a Ballistik down and see how it works (I saw that someone was asking about this awhile back).

Used a .52 Caliber, the model before the current iteration (I don't think it is any different from the current one, other than graphics).

It is completely hollow, no foam, nothing. If you cut about an inch below (towards the blade) the little maple leaf (should have taken measurements), you can look inside and see the adhesive bonding the pieces form a ring on the walls of the shaft. I cut just above this (towards the blade), and filed down the inside with a cheap diamond file (just slightly).

Voila. Easiest chop job ever. Put a T90 tapered blade in it with no problem. Feels solid, but I haven't used their shafts before so I can't really compare apples to apples.

[yrhmblnr8r 69]

flat head screw driver really isnt going to help you all that much. chisel is the absolutely minimum. dremel is good too. as for chisel sizes, i bought a combo pack that came with 1/4", 1/2" and 1"... and i use them all. depending on the quality of the fusion and the epoxy used, sometimes all you have to do is hit around the edges to seperate the tenon fron the shaft then in the middle and it will slowly pop out the other side... sometimes you have to chip away from the middle to the outside edge. if there's foam, i just use plyers to pull it out before i start.

Flat head screw driver has always been my go to.

I noticed in other threads some cut the stick an inch above the fuse point, while others cut it at the fuse point. Which method is better or more reliable to have the best outcome in quality? And for those who have the SE16 converted, what tapered blade did you choose to go with?

The last time I converted an SE16, I cut at fuse point, drilled down the center of the tenon, heated, then wedged the screwdriver head around the edges of the tenon to collapse it. Once it was separated from the shaft, it pulled out with pliers. After it cooled, I trimmed off another 1/2 centimeter just to even up the cut.

[MilleniumFalcon 5]

Darn. I got too hasty and did a cut at the fuse line.

On another note. Besides a heat gun and having a flat-head screw driver handy. What else do I need to complete the task.

Other than using a dremel, is a chisel just as good? Is there a particular sized chisel I should pick up?

If there is the foam in the fused area, do I just heat and pull it out? and then chisel the tennon? Does is slide out once heated and cut on one side?

thx!

after 11 conversions I decided in favor of this method (fuse line cut):

1) try to do it w/o a heat gun first, drill the tenon in the middle with 10mm auger

2) drill the tenon as much as possible, drill around (DO NOT HIT THE SHAFT WALLS INSIDE)

3) use 8-10mm chisel to punch out the tenon remains (at this stage you can use some heat to kill the foam inside the tenon)

4) be very careful with chisel tool because it's easy to divide the shaft into layers and fray it out (the same problem can appear in case of overheat)

5) cut 1cm above the fusepoint and grind inside a little to make the hole look beautiful

this method is more safe, overheating can damage the shaft, it's better to apply a heatgun at step 3 to make the tenon remains more softer

post your pics and good luck.

[tml67 0]

I would use a vise, if you have access to one, rather than cutting at the fuse point & chisel. I've converted 4 or 5 TPS sticks with perfect results.

1. Find the fuse point on the stick

2. Use heatgun and apply heat to the fuse point area for a few minutes

3. Use a knife and make a separation line around the fuse piont

4. Attach the broken blade end to the vise

5. Use a heatgun and apply heat 3 to 4 inches above the fuse point. Distribute heat in this area evenly for about 10 mins

6. Use elbow grease and pull away!!!

7. If it won't budge, just repeat step 3 (with reduce heating time) & step 4.

I converted a SE16 by cutting at the fuse point and chisel. IMO, this method was a lot more troublesome than using a vise...just my 2 cents.

[tml67 0]

The blade on my pro stock One95 "C29" snapped yesterday. It's served me well since late Feb of this year.

I want to convert it to a taper shaft, so I saw off the broken blade today. I started really low, trying to preserve as much of the shaft as possible. After the first cut, I took a look at the inner shaft and it didn't look in any shape it would accept a taper tenon. It's almost an oval-like shape. I went a little higher and chopped off some more shaft but it looked the same. The shaft is currently 50" long, which is the length I like for a standard blade, so I'm really hesitant to cut off more unless I'm absolutely certain it will take a taper blade.

If someone has successfully converted a prostock "C29" to a taper shaft, please help me out!! I took off about 7" to 7.5" from the heel of blade. I initially cut off about 2" on top of the shaft when it was an OPS, so the shaft is exactly 50" at the momemt. I'm afraid my "C29" inner shaft might be a little different than cemetery's "B" prostock.

Hey shotty: If you haven't cut your "B" prostock already, can you help me out and do a cut really low to see if the shape of your inner shaft is like my "C29"? The shaft wall on the lower blade end is really thick compared to the top of the shaft.

Thanks

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

The blade on my pro stock One95 "C29" snapped yesterday. It's served me well since late Feb of this year.

I want to convert it to a taper shaft, so I saw off the broken blade today. I started really low, trying to preserve as much of the shaft as possible. After the first cut, I took a look at the inner shaft and it didn't look in any shape it would accept a taper tenon. It's almost an oval-like shape. I went a little higher and chopped off some more shaft but it looked the same. The shaft is currently 50" long, which is the length I like for a standard blade, so I'm really hesitant to cut off more unless I'm absolutely certain it will take a taper blade.

If someone has successfully converted a prostock "C29" to a taper shaft, please help me out!! I took off about 7" to 7.5" from the heel of blade. I initially cut off about 2" on top of the shaft when it was an OPS, so the shaft is exactly 50" at the momemt. I'm afraid my "C29" inner shaft might be a little different than cemetery's "B" prostock.

Hey shotty: If you haven't cut your "B" prostock already, can you help me out and do a cut really low to see if the shape of your inner shaft is like my "C29"? The shaft wall on the lower blade end is really thick compared to the top of the shaft.

Thanks

I'm pretty sure B one95's are actually one90's. My samsonov with the b code doesn't feel like a one95. One95's have such a thin taper that it makes it hard to get a senior tapered blade in and keep the shaft long enough. I stuffed intermediate blades into my broken G3 one95

[tml67 0]

I'm pretty sure B one95's are actually one90's. My samsonov with the b code doesn't feel like a one95. One95's have such a thin taper that it makes it hard to get a senior tapered blade in and keep the shaft long enough. I stuffed intermediate blades into my broken G3 one95

Hmmm...I guess my best option is to stop the cutting, flip it and use it with a standard blade on the handle end. How long is your G3 One95 after cutting it to fit an intermediate blade?

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

Hmmm...I guess my best option is to stop the cutting, flip it and use it with a standard blade on the handle end. How long is your G3 One95 after cutting it to fit an intermediate blade?

with the intermediate blade it's longer than before it broke. It broke right where the shaft meets the blade and I cut an inch or two above that. Perfect fit.

[tml67 0]

with the intermediate blade it's longer than before it broke. It broke right where the shaft meets the blade and I cut an inch or two above that. Perfect fit.

Intermediate blades are nowhere to be found in my area...non existent...never seen them before. I guess I'll flip it and use the shaft with a standard blade. Thanks

[halfmoonyote 0]

Ok, so sort of an inverse question (in context to this thread)...

Has anyone had any luck saving a blade from a broken OPS?

Reason I ask is because I recently had one of my pro stocks break a few inches down from middle of shaft. Shaft was cracked blocking a shot, and then a few shifts later, I was locked up with another guy going into the corner, and sort of speared myself with my own stick and the stick itself collapsed where it had cracked a few shifts prior.

That said...I'd really like to try and salvage the blade because I love the pattern. I made a flush cut on the broken lower half, and I can physically see the top of the blade tenon. I heated that sonofagun up like crazy and yanked away (I know, that sounds horrible) with no results.

I have a Dremel, so should I try to make shallow cuts on all fours side of the shaft and try to whittle away the shaft that is surrounding the tenon? (if that makes any sense).

Seems like a lot of tedious work to rescue a blade, but in this case it's worth it to me I guess.

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

Ok, so sort of an inverse question (in context to this thread)...

Has anyone had any luck saving a blade from a broken OPS?

Reason I ask is because I recently had one of my pro stocks break a few inches down from middle of shaft. Shaft was cracked blocking a shot, and then a few shifts later, I was locked up with another guy going into the corner, and sort of speared myself with my own stick and the stick itself collapsed where it had cracked a few shifts prior.

That said...I'd really like to try and salvage the blade because I love the pattern. I made a flush cut on the broken lower half, and I can physically see the top of the blade tenon. I heated that sonofagun up like crazy and yanked away (I know, that sounds horrible) with no results.

I have a Dremel, so should I try to make shallow cuts on all fours side of the shaft and try to whittle away the shaft that is surrounding the tenon? (if that makes any sense).

Seems like a lot of tedious work to rescue a blade, but in this case it's worth it to me I guess.

Yes, I did it with a TPS OPS. However, those were a lot different science than, say, an Easton.

[dayroc 0]

I've converted a int. x60 ops w/a tapered x60 blade replacement.

I just cut at 1.5inches above the tenon and the blade went right in.

The shaft was too long to begin with so it bright it down to the perfect height.

[fatwabbit 93]

halfmoon, I've salvaged a blade from a broken OPS before.

I tried the heat and pull method, but agree that it takes a lot of muscle to do it. I also tried the 'samson' method of doing it with clamps and spreaders but it didnt work too well. Here's what I did in the end.

I cut the blade off from the shaft at the spot where I believe would be the end of the TENON. I then lined up the blade against a few tapered blades to get a rough idea where the hosel would end (fuse point), then cut a notch into that area around the whole profile of the shaft. Then crisscross cuts around the remainder of the shaft. Once done, heat up and use a screwdriver to pry the remainding shaft off. Because of the crisscross cuts, the remainding shaft would just break off in pieces. Sounds complicated, but the sawing took a couple of minutes, and the heat/pry took about 5 minutes.

The blade still had some of the epoxy type glue on the tenon, so I sanded it down a little. The blade fits well into tapered shafts, might need just one strip of tape on the tenon for some other tapered shafts.

Edit.... also converted a TpS XN10 two days ago. Tenon popped out of the butt end after a little chiseling, and looks pretty good.

[halfmoonyote 0]

That's awesome. Thank you tons for the tip fatwabbit. I'll give that a rip and see where I come out.

Out of curiosity, how long did the blade last you after you did that?