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I have some pant shells and just keep the same size, they're cut slightly different (a touch boxier) but not enough to warrant me dropping down a size.

What do you mean "multiple flex points all the way down to 70"? Generally, the more you cut the stiffer the stick will feel, not the opposite, so the longer the stick the lower the flex. Not sure if that's what you mean but that's how it sounds, also your first post mentioned cutting a 95 flex down to the height of an 85 flex, which seemed odd since the height of each would be the same unless one was an extended version. Either way, if I were in your shoes I'd keep the curve and go with the lower flex. I love the P90TM and have gone back and forth between that and a P28 and the P90TM wins it for me, such a great curve, just wish it were easier to find pro stock and sellers knew the difference between P90TM, P90, and P90T since they're definitely not the same lol.

It extends so far from the forehead it might as well be a visor. It gets 0 stars in the looks category.

I'd say AS-V Pro's, the Tacks shoulder caps tend to wrap a little more front/back than the Jetspeed/CL/RBZ/QL line.

You're like a month too late lol, I had a PP9k FS for a while that I practically gave away finally. If you're not opposed to a Warrior shell, PSH has a bunch. Most of the ones I have fit slightly wider than CCM but the latest one I got from a different seller (Londsonsports on SLS) was a little smaller/narrower, so it's a crapshoot. They are girdle shells but they don't have the plastic kidney guards like the PP90/PP9K, honestly with modern girdles (of the last 20 years) I don't know how much those added guards do anyways. https://www.prostockhockey.com/player-protective/shells/size-m-warrior-covert-qre-girdle-shell-team-stock-toronto-maple-leafs/

Also, knowing how he is, he prob knew it would piss a bunch of people off so went out of his way to make it look as bad as possible.

I mean he's setting that bar pretty low, I'm pretty sure my 10 year old could manage to make a pair of gloves look better than that lol

Maybe a paint marker? Should be more durable than something like a Sharpie, but I've gotta say, any time I've seen gloves that people have blacked out branding/accents you can always tell. Depending on where the accents are/size/shape, maybe just covering an area with pad-skinz in black might look better?

Just be aware, the 910 and Vector 08 are both oval shaped, so if he has a round head shape they won't work for him (the 710 is round). CCM is generally a little larger compared to Bauer, I'm a small in CCM and a medium in Bauer models, but I couldn't wear the 710 when I tried it since the round shape didn't work for my oval shaped head lol

If you tried using this on the entire palm you'd have a super thick/stiff palm, it's great for small repairs but you wouldn't want too much of it on there.

You'd have to re-palm the gloves and use a dyed material and yes it is very difficult to do, you have to remove the bindings and cut all the threading, then clone the shape and re-sew everything back together. There are a few places that do this still, some are not so great at it and some are pretty good. CPR (custom pre repair) is the pro level for this but impossible to get stuff done if you're not a pro since they're so backed up with work for NHL clubs, or you can check out ITR on instagram/facebook, he does some great work and has about a 2ish month turn around and some fair pricing (just a heads up, this sort of work is not cheap, we're talking prob $80-100 for a simple re-palm, much more if you also want fancy new gussets or some other custom overlays). https://www.instagram.com/itr_hockey/

A large shell on a med. girdle will definitely have overhang. Pants are generally a bit bulkier as opposed to girdles (which fit closer to the body) so the same shell will be looser on a girdle as opposed to pants.

Are you sure the clip is snapping over the posts 100% It's a tough squeeze, I had to use a flat head to push it down hard enough, but once it snapped on it was super tight and is a PITA to get back off (I know b/c I had to remove them twice to get rivets tightened). I know the first time I installed mine I thought they were on all th wway but I still had a little ways to go.

I noticed that too, appears to just be a new knob which is good because the dial system works great. I've had two different knobs, one with a straight groove across and one with a cross hatch, didn't notice a difference, but maybe that one is more metal than plastic which might be stronger.

Which XS tongues did you try? They have a normal, a thin, and an extra thick... if you tried the thick one maybe see if you can swap them for the standard or thin to try out?

That also explains why I have to have rivets tightened/replaced so frequently on my FT4 Pros, guess they need to find a better coating to use in those areas where metal will be anchoring.

Warrior girdle shells run a little shorter, if you want pro stick there's a seller on SLS with a bunch of the "new" pro stock Warrior girdle shells which run much smaller than they used to, so if you were to get a L in that it would prob fit more like a medium length wise. With CCM shells (PP90/PP9K) I've found little consistency in sizing, I have about 7 or 8, all medium, and maybe 2 are the same, the rest are shorter/longer/wider/etc., it's a crapshoot. The Tackla girdle has nice kidney pads so you'd even be fine with a pant shell rather than a girdle shell, the pant shells are usually just a little more roomy/boxy so if you sized down in that it might work out well length wise and have enough room.

Was at Pure Hockey yesterday and took a look at the FT6 Pro elbows and shins... the FT6 Pro elbow pads are really nice, slight strap changes from the FT4 Pro but aside from that the changes appeared cosmetic to my untrained eye (I was hoping to find a pair of FT4 Pros on clearance but ended up ordering a pair direct from CCM today). The shins didn't impress me much, the knee area didn't seem to have much padding (like most retail pads) and the top flap not being removable seemed a bit odd.

If it's the identical steel swapped to the new skate/holder then maybe it's just the newer boot with more stiffness creating the feeling of a sharper edge? Maybe the old holder was worn and the steel was sitting ever so slightly off so it felt less sharp? I'm just coming up with theories but my bet is the stiffer boot has your foot in a better position and therefore the steel is contacting the ice a little different and feeling a bit sharper.

You could always coat the metal with plasti-dip or something to avoid metal on metal contact and protect the blades, or just put some electrical tape over the edges of the tool... anything to avoid metal on metal and you should be good.

In my experience, last night, this would've been super helpful since trying to pull the steel out of my skate between shifts, while it was wet and cold, was not an easy task. No matter how much I wiped the steel trying to dry it, it was still slippery (also bending your foot up in awkward positions really doesn't help with your leverage... I managed to get them swapped but man that tool would've made the task wayyyy easier). edit: I don't have Edge holders, I have XS, the Edge tool prob would've made my life easier if they worked on XS and I had one.

two words... speed holes.

It sits away from the chin a bit, but from what someone mentioned, sounds like it would regularly hit and cut your chin lol. The new Wargate thing is the same idea, a cage that sits away from the chin with no chincup, just much uglier than the cateye.

If it's more than $20 I'm not interested 😂 I got the sheet of vinyl off Amazon for about $15 to play with, to me it's a low level concern so I'd rather spend my money on other gear.

I put CF vinyl on my FT4 Pros after seeing someone post on here with pics of theirs (vinyl was automotive vinyl off Amazon). I was going to just do the red strips first but after realizing how much of an absolute PITA it would be to get the lines to match with all the slight curves on the boot I just covered the whole bottom area (which was still a pain). Honestly it looked good but after a few games got some nicks and scratches and looked worse than the Nascar graphics so I pulled them off. Here's a pic I cropped down since you can kind of see where they chipped off on the inside and you can also see how I didn't get a perfect cover of the grey/silver near the heel. Also I felt the outside of the skate was too plain now, needs a CM logo at least lol. Untitled by Jon Schusteritsch, on Flickr