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Updating this post... had the Mix backpack since Sep. 2022 and am now looking for a replacement. The bag itself was a good size and had good features but the quality of the inner coating was poor (it has a PVC/rubber like coating they applied to the nylon all over the inside of the bag, probably the cause for the nasty chemical smell it had for the first few weeks). I have had black pieces of coating in all of my equipment for the past 6 months or so, started as a minor thing but now is getting out of hand with so much crap finding its way into my gear. The areas where it peeled off you can now see light through the nylon so I'm guessing it's only a matter of time til the material rips through. I contacted the company to see if there was any warranty or anything, mainly just to see what they'd say and if they knew about this issue, their reply was a resounding no to there being a warranty but offered a 35% discount if I wanted to order a replacement. That's definitely going to be a no from me. So, currently I think I've settled on the Warrior Pro backpack as a replacement, the only thing I'll miss about the Mix bag is the water bottle holders which I didn't even care about at first lol So anyone looking at the Mix Hockey backpack, save your money and look elsewhere, spend a little more now to save a lot more down the road.

First let me say this is a never ending journey. You'll think you found the perfect pair then a season later something will pique your interest and you'll try something different and be on the hunt all over again only to return to your previous "favorite" and find it's not as good as you remember lol it's an evil cycle. I've been through a bunch but tend to prefer the U+/CL/RBZ line, never tried Jetspeeds or QL's. I've had some Ultra Tacks and they were nice but didn't breathe as well and I didn't like how boxy the shoulder caps were, they had like a ledge to them. CL's were the best overall as far as lightness and comfort but their caps are just so big (which is why I never tried QL's or Jetspeeds since they have the same caps). I tried Vapor 2X Pro and 3X Pro, the 3X Pro was the better of the two and was super light and breathable but just felt awkward when I wore it, the caps or something kept feeling like they were hitting stuff when I moved (also the caps felt like they'd break in pieces if I touched them wrong which is just how Vapor caps are). I tried Stark at one point, wasn't a big fan. Tried STX, they didn't stay in place very well. U+ ones are awesome and havre the best cap/bicep combo but they don't breathe as well as the CL's. Right now I'm wearing CL's with U+ caps, best of both worlds, they're light, mobile, and breathe really well, ansds the caps are much more low profile (they're not the prettiest since I'm not the greatest with a sewing awl but they do the trick lol).

Happy Birthday MSH!!

CCM makes youth skates that are heat moldable, obv they have a variety of models but most of the higher level ones will be heat moldable. I picked up a pair of Tacks for my son a couple of years ago when he still played that they baked in the shop for him, they were closeout from the year before so they were on sale which made it even better (these were a size 12 from what I remember so still youth). A Leif mentioned they do make ankle sleeves which may take up some space, also maybe try some Superfeet insoles which raise the heel slightly which might help (stock insoles are always so thin and flat). Lastly, the old advice from Hans in the Mighty Ducks... wear thicker socks lol

probably just the "new" North American way lol (and "new" to me may be the last 20+ years haha). I'm 44, back in the 90's it was all heel all the time lol, I used this square blade bent at the heel, it was like a paddle to a boat, I wouldn't dare use that now lol

This sounds like the "new" way to shoot. Back in he day we were always taught to shoot from the heel, then the P28 came out and everyone switched over to shooting from the toe. Now it seems that's the more common approach and using the pull in and shoot method (to alter angles, etc.) is very popular. So with that in mind, many of the curves out there will accommodate your style so you can play around with other curves, I would experiment with the P28, P29/92/90 (all basically the same, P29 is CCM's P92, and P90 is CCM's pro code for the P29), or my favorite, the P90TM. The P90TM is a cross between the P28 and P29/92/90, has the toe curve of a P28 but a little less open and with a more squarish blade shape like the 29/92/90, for me it's the best of both worlds. Or just stick with what you have if you're comfortable. I hate change so once I find something I like I stick with it until I find an issue or real reason to change.

Very quick and easy task. X-Acto works better than a seam ripper, you can just snip each seam that holds on the shot blocker (once you get ne side free the second side of that blocker is easier since you can now lift/pull it up which exposes the seams more). I started trying to use the seam ripper before realizing I was making it more difficult for myself. Each glove will be different, some have larger/easier to get to areas between the padding where the shot blocker was attached so just take your time and check it all out before cutting anything, this way you know you're cutting the right ones.

Honestly, current skates fit better BUT there are so many variables now that make it hard to find that perfect fit/feel. I was in Vapors for a bit which I thought fit good but hated how tall/stiff the sides were, so then I went to Ribcors which were a world of difference and felt more like that old style flexible boot. I'm now in custom Jetspeeds which are incredible. My advice is to try to find some older CCM Ribcor skates, not even the top models, look for the step down from the top so the 90K (step below the 100k), 88k (step below the 90k), or 78k (step below the 80k), they'll feel more familiar but give you more of the modern benefits. As for the Bauer Supreme 2000... this was my first pro level skate back in like 95/96, I found a used pair at Play it Again Sports that fit like a dream, they were awesome for a couple years until I got some new Graf 705's in '97/98, those things were amazing.

I grew up in the 90's wearing Bauer and they were not true to size, not as drastic as some of today's skates but I was about 1.5 sizes down. The 3000 was the pinnacle in the early 90's but the ones you linked are a later model so not sure the quality/sizing (that vertical zig zag stitching wasn't introduced until the Comp which was after the 4000, so I'm guessing later on they may have re-used older model numbers for mid tier models). One thing to remember is back in the 90's and early 00's a 5.5 was still a kids size, there was no "intermediate", so they may also be built on a narrower last which may explain the fitting issues.

That Hockey Tutorial guy will endorse anything for the right price, he has no shame lol, I stopped watching his stuff after the whole charity scandal and just getting tired of biased reviews. He doesn't hold a candle to Hills' "Hockey Reviews" page in terms of reviews. With that off my chest, I did enjoy the Graf video, my 705's I got in the mid 90's were my favorite skates I ever owned, partially because the brand had so much history and just stood out over Bauer/CCM at the time (it was like going for a Porsche over a Ford), and partially because they just felt so good on my feet. I haven't seen or tried any of their new offerings but they'll always have a place in my heart.

Even high end pads don't have a ton of padding on the side/ribs. Easiest thing might be to get a padded shirt, I think they're for football, but they have padding on the rib area (I used to get them for my son who plays lax goalie, also would get them to cut the pads out to attach elsewhere for different things). I'd say try the shirt, they're relatively cheap, or find some rib padding for football/lax (I've seen it in Dicks) and attach to the shoulder pads or straps (someone on here once attached padding to the side straps, I can't find the thread though).

Not sure why this would go in this thread but sounds like you need to file a claim with USPS, only the shipper can do that, from there they'll try to locate and if you had insurance you;ll get everything back one way or another. The seller is not out any money as SLS doesn't take their payment until they approve the swap. You can also reach out to SLS but I've heard they're pretty terrible with stuff like this. There's a whole thread dedicated to SLS issues on sports2k so maybe someone over there might have more insight (there's a lot of members there that sell a ton on SLS). One thing.. if you're in Toronto how can you ship with USPS? Don't you ship Canada Post who them transfers to USPS? If so I would include whomever actually accepted and was paid for the shipping.

Any shell will work since it's just a cover, no need to attach any of the loops that some shells have, those are just more trouble than anything, just use the belt/closure the shell has and you're good to go. Just be aware, collecting shells can be addicting 😅 I've lost track of how many I've had over the years, they're much cheaper than buying new pants so it's easier to match teams you're on. In my experience, the PP90/PP9K shells run a touch longer, Warrior girdle shells run smaller (the ones from the past year or so are really small), the Tacks shell is a bit more fitted but has a zipper at the waist to add length if need be. Bauer has some Supreme shells, they're pretty true to size but I always felt they seemed cheap, the material on the backs of legs was thin and like mesh, I wasn't a fan. You can also use pant shells, they tend to run a little larger, a PP10 or the Bauer pant shells would prob be good since they're a little longer than a regular girdle shell, only other difference is they don't go above the waist/belt where as a girdle shell will go higher.

It has happened to me once or twice but the pliers make it easier when doing it between games/at home (new steel/new holders can be pretty tight... I had to replace one of my holders and that one was significantly tighter). Last month I had to change mid game, one of the few times ever... had gotten a bad sharpening, not level and my outer edge was no existent. Firs two games I played on soft crappy ice (or standard LI ice) and didn't notice, but next game I was at one of the few good rinks with harder ice and had to swap steel after a couple of shifts.

I picked these up a while back, they work like a charm! They have the rubber on them so they won't damage the steel. They now live in my hockey bag and have come in handy on numerous occasions. https://a.co/d/fXVn7B5

I second the Tacks/Jetspeed girdle. I have a Super Tacks, size medium, and wear it at -1" (or possibly -1.5"), the velcro area goes from like + or - 2" and you could even modify it for additional adjustment if you wanted (I'm 5'9" for the record). I know on the older 9K girdles you could get larger extended thigh pads, I bought a set from HockeyMonkey years ago since they were on clearance for like $20 not realizing how huge they were lol, never used them but did use them for spare parts to make repairs to other things.

The Canucks matte black helmets remind me of that one guy in every beer league with the old matte black Easton bucket that never looked good, usually paired with roller hockey pants and some skates from 20 years ago... it's a hard no from me.

I only had/have issues like that when I had that thigh piece on my shins which is why I always cut them off. I wore 9K's for years before switching to Super Tacks, the 9K doesn't have much in ways of adjusting from what you've already done but you could try shortening the adjustment strap (double up and sew together to make shorter, or sew on more velcro so you have more adjustment room). Maybe also try adding a wrap of tape to the top of the knee part of your shin guard?

Those Bees days were years ago lol, and yes John was running it at the time, I went with the Pigeons afterwards (after he left that team) and now a few over 40 teams, I'm too old to keep up with college kids now.

I've had two kids go through LTP and few fiend's kids... the skates are all entry level with either Tacks or Jetspeed labeling on them, so prob the same as what your son has already (could differ with sizes as well, if he has big feet maybe it's a different model but all of the younger/smaller sizes seemed to be the basic Tacks or Jetspeed labelled skate which really doesn't have any of the tech you'd find in adult skates). As for profiling, if he's just learning I wouldn't worry unless you see him struggling... no sense in trying to tweak/worry about things like that when they're still learning how to skate and the basics of the game, leave those details for when he's older and understands the differences (old man rant: back when I was a kid no one paid any attention to profiles or even hollows, we just skated on whatever we were given and we all did just fine with our wooden sticks and cinder block skates 🤣). One tip... if his current skates fit him fine keep them for now and get the next size up so he can wear those when he outgrows what he's in now, I did that with both of my kids since I already had skates for them which they were using for skating lessons.

When my kids were little we just started with used stuff. They don't outgrow everything too quick, the skates yes, but things like pants/elbows/shoulders not so quick. Also if you're doing a LTP program usually they supply all of the gear head to toe as part of the cost (when my kids were little it was $150 for the program and that included all of the gear too, it was a bargain). So hold off on buying everything til you know the gameplan. If the kids haven't been on ice yet I'd suggest some skating lessons to start since a solid skating foundation will help a ton when they start the LTP (since they don't really teach basic skating too much). I would scour FB marketplace and CL for gear, SLS is tough since some people try to make a profit off of their free LTP gear lol, but hey a mix of SLS/ebay/FB and CL is a good start.

I've used shin pad straps just like Monty that I had lying around for repairs in the past, also I have a habit of hoarding all old straps that are in good shape before getting rid of equipment lol. But if you're not handy you can always try a tailor or shore repair place, they'd have some elastic or nylon and can attach new velcro. Here are two examples of my amazing sewing skills (insert sarcastic voice there)... pair of U+ CL elbow pads I love that had this web sort of strap with a "non slip" coating that wore off and started to disintegrate, I cut that out and added two straps, one was a shinpan strap (which I later shortened even more), and the larger was a part from an old neoprene knee brace. Untitled by Jon Schusteritsch, on Flickr and this was a shoulder pad straps that was way overstretched, I cut it to just a few inches and attached part of a strap I took from some arm pads we removed from my son's lacrosse gear: Untitled by Jon Schusteritsch, on Flickr I will use anything I can get my hands on that will do the job lol

Tacks are the current relative to that style still using the JDP cap, the strapping and some minor details change year after year but the guts are still the same. You can sometimes find older generation Tacks online for a good deal, also even 2nd/3rd tier from the top would be equivalent since the top models all got super beefy compared to those older styles. If they're still in good shape overall maybe try what Monty mentioned and have the straps replaced... I've used donor pads for their straps in the past, or find a shoe repair place or maybe even a tailor/dry cleaner that may be able to sew new straps on for you.

When I switched from Bauer w/ LSE to CCM w/ XS blades I also had that more in the heels feeling. A friend who works at a shop mentioned the normal pitch of the blades is slightly different between the two brands/blades (I don't have the technical data to back that up but when I described the feeling she was immediately familiar with what I was describing going from one to the other). I debated putting the Tuuks on the CCM's but figured I should try profiling at first and it made a big difference in getting that feel just right (what worked on one might not work on the other). Last year I got new skates, CCM again, same size but they had an upsized holder which also required a little tweaking to get that comfortable feeling again (ended up going from a quad .5 on a 263 to a quad 0 on a 271). So if I were you and the boot fits great, try tweaking the profile to get that more familiar feeling.

I too found this, the 910, 720, and X all fit pretty different even though they have the same shell which was surprising. I've worn 910's for a few years now, they fit great but every now and then I get hot spots near the temples (I found this was wore before I removed the ear guards, once those were removed it created a touch more room and made it better but it still happens just not as painful). I bought a couple Tacks X, one in my normal CCM size, small, which ended up being way too tight. I then tried a medium which fit but felt like my head got swallowed u too much, like my head felt way too deep inside the helmet, so I sold that one too. I recently tried on a 720 at Pure Hockey (I really liked the idea of a little less weight but also more airflow and maybe eliminating that temple hot spot), unfortunately the 720 was not right either, the small was the right size (matched the 910) BUT it felt like it swallowed my head too much like the X did, just felt awkward in how low it sat (and how much the top of my ears would stick out if the display model didn't have ear guards on which crushed my ears, which are not that big lol, I'm not dumbo I swear haha). So for now I'll stick with my 910s' and maybe try to find a way to tweak the temple area to eliminate the hot spots.