Vet88

Clamp the steel in the vice then push firmlyish on the side of the skate. You are looking for the holder to move from an upright position and deviate to the side. If it is loose enough you will clearly see the holder go on a lean.

Theory is not my strong point, I'd start with weighing your boot then multiplying the kgs by 9.8, that will give you the newton force of the boot in a sideways jig (yes, I included the steel in the jig). If gravity is moving it then this force in a vertical jig should move it. And my apologies to the flare thread, this is my last post on this particular matter.

Why not? What forces are going thru the inside edge when you accelerate from a standing start? Foot pronating into the push, your whole body weight on one foot driving thru the toe. 100kgs then or you pushing on it in a jig?

I don't have access to prosharp, sparx or elite sharpeners (they are the ones I know of that use a vertical mount). But do I really have to explain how, if you can't move it by hand, it's not going to show up in a vertical mount that has very little sideways deflection occurring on the boot? You stick the boot in the machine and you press the button, it's not going to move sideways unless you are actually testing it and then it's up to the quality of the clamping unit. If you really want to test it in a vertical mount I'd suggest a bench mounted vice clamp would be a better proposition.

I have, if you search earlier threads about this issue I posted pics of my sons skates, neither I, the sharpener I was going to at the time or my son could move the blade by hand yet put his MX3's in the jig and the flop was very noticeable. Fixed it with Teflon tape but eventually they should have been replaced, I didn't as he moved on to other skates shortly after this.

Bit of both and if they don't really notice it they aren't willing to pay for it. Remember that it doesn't suddenly let go, it happens over time and you are adapting to it every time you skate. I'm not saying every edge holder has this issue but it is more significant in edge than any other brand.

And so I have heard the same from just about every other skater I point it out to, I can't make it move as they try to shift it by hand. Leverage, as Archimedes said. Put it in a holder....

No, you don't notice. In general, at least in my experience without a great deal of force and effort, you wont actually notice the blade moving if you are trying to do so by hand. It's not until the boot gets put in the jig to get sharpened that it becomes noticeable, and this requires a sideways mounted jig, a sparx or any other vertical mounted boot holder will tell you sweet fa. As to sample bias? I sharpen skates. I don't have any bias other than the fact it's an edge holder that predominately flops. Everyone needs skates sharpened, regardless of skate brand. I see every type of brand and edge holders are the worst. Admittedly I don't do hundreds of skate a week, I live in a small town where ice sports are a niche market but I'm only echoing what other high volume, quality professional sharpeners have seen every day, @oldtrainerguy28.

Where in the hip? Front of groin? Or deep in the center? Or rear? An xray should show if there is an impingement, bone deformity or considerable cartiledge damage (this shows up as grey areas around the hip joint), an ultrasound will show any tendinopathy, other muscular damage or any edge wear on the outside bone structures (which can indicate a bone density issue or some other problem), and as caveman27 said this is the mri process so you can see inside the hip and whats really going on. I had both my hips revisioned when I was 48, still playing hockey today. My son has FAI's on both his hips (similar to what I had) and this impacts his hockey, gym work etc, next day his hips hurt. He has surgery scheduled for next year and hopefully this will delay any osteoarthritis to a much later date than when it hit me. Hip pain sucks and if it takes you away from the ice that is even suckier, I wish you all the best in getting it fixed.

Grade of tears? There is a lot more of a conservative approach these days to dealing with tears but when they get to a certain level no amount of time is going to return them to a decent state. imho he should have gone through all the options with you and what to expect with a conservative approach / rehab programme.

Or ask yourself why are your skates opening up on you? If you skate neutral, bio mechanically aligned over the skate blade, then this doesn't happen. If you pronate into the skate then they will open up and regardless of what skate you buy, this will always happen. It can be fixed, there are various ways to address pronation or you just buy the stiffest sidewall skates you can with the knowledge that in time they are going to open up and need replacing. A rebake can get you a few months more but once they start to open up it's all downhill from there.

Then it sounds like you haven't worked in a shop sharpening skates. It's an issue I see daily, put the steel in the clamp and watch the boot flop. Most players don't care because they don't want to pay for the repairs and for a beer league competition it just doesn't make things that much better. Talk to anyone who cares about their equipment and it's impact on performance (at least in my experience) and then it's a different matter.

fwiw, before they scan you ask them to measure your feet either by hand or in a Brannock. With manual width and length measurements known then do the scan, compare the scan results against the manual results so you can validate the scan results.

Have you tried the pencil test? Whilst not the be end of all as a test, it's a reasonable good guide that if you fail it then depth problems (such as lace bite or your lump) can happen.

2 options: 1: Reebok lace locks. Downside is they are getting harder to find and can break with a puck impact. Fit them before and after the area you want to tie loosely. 2: Eyelet extenders, make your own, it's not hard. Middle of the boot and moving into the curved area I would use single extenders although a 2 eyelets version might work ok. With either of these options you buy the boot that fits you well everywhere else and then fix the volume issue.

50k if you can find some....

I have never got good results stretching for length, there are parts of the boot that are not designed to move that way. But there are options, they are just harder to do. 1: Work with the toe cap. You need to heat the front of the boot up and then pull the toe cap out by 1mm - 2mm. You need to be very careful doing this because you can pull the toe cap right out and destroy the boot. I am also not sure how this would work now with different manufacturing processes, I know an ex pro who finished playing 5 years ago and this is what he got done to every boot he had for his right foot. I have never done it myself. 2: Punch the heel out. If you have a curved heel shape then by punching the heel out you can gain another 1mm - 2mm of length in a boot (like a supreme) that has a straight heel shape. But the heel is a hard area to punch out because of curves and the stiffness of the boot in that area. 3: Punch the toe cap out. A special tool needs to be used, customworx have made one so maybe reach out to JR and ask him for contact details of a shop that will have one. And with a mix of these you can add around 1/2 a size to the boot.

xtraice / revolution / cheap chinese brands x 3 are the ones I have skated on. Xtraice was the best by a fair way. Also our local rink owners have been reviewing different types and they agreed xtraice was one of the best they had seen and tried. If you are putting them outdoors you need to take extra care in keeping them clean. Regardless of what brand you choose, dirt is the number 1 enemy.

If you go the custom route you need to be very specific about the facing and the height you are requesting and make sure that they will do this. Some manufacturers are removing this option from the retail custom side eg CCM no longer offer it to retail clients. You can fix volume with eyelet extenders, either make your own or buy them.

It really depends on what has caused the lace bite, sometimes a thinner tongue will work - no degradation in the tongue because of lace pressure and the thinner tongue means more volume in the boot, this may be just enough to relieve / shift the pressure on the tendon.

I have gone up and down the scale. A big change in length is really hard to do, even an inch makes a big difference. When I started I found the only way to do it is you have to make the adjustments around 1cm at a time, play with that for a while till it feels comfortable and then add / shorten as required. It means you may need more sticks / butt ends but the transition over time is reasonably painless. Now that I've spent a while doing this I find that when I pick up any of the sticks I played with for a while I settle in really quickly even if it is a couple of inches different from my current stick. But this is part of my training now, I'm always swapping sticks / lengths, generally working with 3 or 4 sticks in a one hour period.

It's possibly an ongoing sign that your foot is rolling in the boot ie pronation. A perfect fitting boot doesn't fix pronation, it only hides it until the boot starts to give way against the relentless pressure from the foot. I know of pros playing in Europe who go thru 3 - 4 pairs a year of customs (all brands) because the skate opens up. Rebaking will close it up again but each time they open up faster. If you pronate it can be addressed but it takes time and effort.

There has to be a reasonable operating range otherwise one would be changing disks out that had relatively little wear on them but there has to be more to it than that. A Wissota 911 uses a 7" disc, a Incredible Edger uses a 3" disc so their SFPM a fair way apart. Maybe it's the composition of the discs, I don't know if one can use aftermarket discs with a Wissota, we purchase from a number of suppliers for the Incredible Edger. Now that I'm looking into this it is surprising how little there is out there about the subject. If you look into the science behind knife sharpening there are 100's of articles but skate sharpening, almost nada. So many questions - What is the ideal SFPM? What is the range? Why isn't there a water cooled sharpener? In theory a shallower hollow should keep it's edge longer, has anyone actually tested this? Why doesn't a slow spin ultra cooled disc work for skate sharpeners as it seems to be a nirvana for knife sharpeners? If anyone knows of any publications re the science behind skate sharpening then I'd be grateful if you could point them out.

Does anyone know what the "ideal" rpm the electric motor in a skate sharpener should run at? Or more exactly what the sharpening disk should spin at? Somewhere I read that they should spin at 4000rpm. A Wissota 911 spins at 3450rpm. The Incredible Edger motor spins at around 1400rpm but it belt drives the disk at around 6100rpm. Anyone know what a Blackstone, Blademaster etc spin at? If you have access to a machine it should be on the motor.

Notwithstanding any skate fit issues, these will fix any lacebite issues and give you the flex forward you want: http://greatsaves.org/skate_lace_extenders.html