Vet88

Clamp the steel in the vice then push firmlyish on the side of the skate. You are looking for the holder to move from an upright position and deviate to the side. If it is loose enough you will clearly see the holder go on a lean.

Theory is not my strong point, I'd start with weighing your boot then multiplying the kgs by 9.8, that will give you the newton force of the boot in a sideways jig (yes, I included the steel in the jig). If gravity is moving it then this force in a vertical jig should move it. And my apologies to the flare thread, this is my last post on this particular matter.

Why not? What forces are going thru the inside edge when you accelerate from a standing start? Foot pronating into the push, your whole body weight on one foot driving thru the toe. 100kgs then or you pushing on it in a jig?

I don't have access to prosharp, sparx or elite sharpeners (they are the ones I know of that use a vertical mount). But do I really have to explain how, if you can't move it by hand, it's not going to show up in a vertical mount that has very little sideways deflection occurring on the boot? You stick the boot in the machine and you press the button, it's not going to move sideways unless you are actually testing it and then it's up to the quality of the clamping unit. If you really want to test it in a vertical mount I'd suggest a bench mounted vice clamp would be a better proposition.

I have, if you search earlier threads about this issue I posted pics of my sons skates, neither I, the sharpener I was going to at the time or my son could move the blade by hand yet put his MX3's in the jig and the flop was very noticeable. Fixed it with Teflon tape but eventually they should have been replaced, I didn't as he moved on to other skates shortly after this.

Bit of both and if they don't really notice it they aren't willing to pay for it. Remember that it doesn't suddenly let go, it happens over time and you are adapting to it every time you skate. I'm not saying every edge holder has this issue but it is more significant in edge than any other brand.

And so I have heard the same from just about every other skater I point it out to, I can't make it move as they try to shift it by hand. Leverage, as Archimedes said. Put it in a holder....

No, you don't notice. In general, at least in my experience without a great deal of force and effort, you wont actually notice the blade moving if you are trying to do so by hand. It's not until the boot gets put in the jig to get sharpened that it becomes noticeable, and this requires a sideways mounted jig, a sparx or any other vertical mounted boot holder will tell you sweet fa. As to sample bias? I sharpen skates. I don't have any bias other than the fact it's an edge holder that predominately flops. Everyone needs skates sharpened, regardless of skate brand. I see every type of brand and edge holders are the worst. Admittedly I don't do hundreds of skate a week, I live in a small town where ice sports are a niche market but I'm only echoing what other high volume, quality professional sharpeners have seen every day, @oldtrainerguy28.

Grade of tears? There is a lot more of a conservative approach these days to dealing with tears but when they get to a certain level no amount of time is going to return them to a decent state. imho he should have gone through all the options with you and what to expect with a conservative approach / rehab programme.

Or ask yourself why are your skates opening up on you? If you skate neutral, bio mechanically aligned over the skate blade, then this doesn't happen. If you pronate into the skate then they will open up and regardless of what skate you buy, this will always happen. It can be fixed, there are various ways to address pronation or you just buy the stiffest sidewall skates you can with the knowledge that in time they are going to open up and need replacing. A rebake can get you a few months more but once they start to open up it's all downhill from there.

Then it sounds like you haven't worked in a shop sharpening skates. It's an issue I see daily, put the steel in the clamp and watch the boot flop. Most players don't care because they don't want to pay for the repairs and for a beer league competition it just doesn't make things that much better. Talk to anyone who cares about their equipment and it's impact on performance (at least in my experience) and then it's a different matter.

xtraice / revolution / cheap chinese brands x 3 are the ones I have skated on. Xtraice was the best by a fair way. Also our local rink owners have been reviewing different types and they agreed xtraice was one of the best they had seen and tried. If you are putting them outdoors you need to take extra care in keeping them clean. Regardless of what brand you choose, dirt is the number 1 enemy.

It really depends on what has caused the lace bite, sometimes a thinner tongue will work - no degradation in the tongue because of lace pressure and the thinner tongue means more volume in the boot, this may be just enough to relieve / shift the pressure on the tendon.

I have gone up and down the scale. A big change in length is really hard to do, even an inch makes a big difference. When I started I found the only way to do it is you have to make the adjustments around 1cm at a time, play with that for a while till it feels comfortable and then add / shorten as required. It means you may need more sticks / butt ends but the transition over time is reasonably painless. Now that I've spent a while doing this I find that when I pick up any of the sticks I played with for a while I settle in really quickly even if it is a couple of inches different from my current stick. But this is part of my training now, I'm always swapping sticks / lengths, generally working with 3 or 4 sticks in a one hour period.

It's possibly an ongoing sign that your foot is rolling in the boot ie pronation. A perfect fitting boot doesn't fix pronation, it only hides it until the boot starts to give way against the relentless pressure from the foot. I know of pros playing in Europe who go thru 3 - 4 pairs a year of customs (all brands) because the skate opens up. Rebaking will close it up again but each time they open up faster. If you pronate it can be addressed but it takes time and effort.

Notwithstanding any skate fit issues, these will fix any lacebite issues and give you the flex forward you want: http://greatsaves.org/skate_lace_extenders.html

They should have done an ultrasound (as well as the xray), that will show any tears or disruption / inflammation to the lcl or surrounding tissue. An mri is the next level of resolution if the ultrasound and xray cannot identify the issue.

I don't have access to that anymore and our Bauer in country ordering is done out of Europe. Hopefully someone local to you will read this and be able to guide you to a US or Canada online source.

There are 2 widths you can get in a skate, the forefoot width and the heel width. Retail skates have a set heel width which is why the sizing is only D or E, customs can be ordered with a separate forefoot width and heel width (or should be able to eg Bauer custom ordering process where you specify the heel width you want).

It was for FT2 customs.

Making material move inwards is never a good idea, it has memory and any outward pressure on it always makes it want to move back out. But material that is small in the first place resists outward movement a lot more. If I want a narrow heel that is where I want to start, not something that is oversized and then squeezed downward to fit.

Something I have just seen that came from CCM. If you want a narrow heel then CCM customs may not be your best bet, CCM no longer make heel sizes under a D width. So if you want a B or a C etc heel width then you are sol. I'm willing to stand corrected but this came direct from CCM.

These: https://www.icewarehouse.com/Drymax_Hockey_Skate_Socks/catpage-DRYMAXSOCK.html They tick every box I think you are after, they are one of their best sellers and my favourite after I tried nearly everything IW sell.

Does his 70k skates have 10 or 11 eyelets? Retail version have 10 so if he is skipping the 10th eyelet it means he either has custom facings or it's something like the 50k facing on a 70k frame?

Regardless of how the skate fits, the fit does not correct your bio mechanics.Lets say you pronate, a perfect fitting skate will straighten your ankle and help to reduce the amount it pronates but your foot STILL wants to pronate in the skate. Over time the pressure the foot places against the inner wall will eventually cause the inner rear quarter of the skate to open up, which allows the foot to rotate a little more, which places more pressure on the inner rear wall etc etc. A self fullfilling prophecy. Also a skate with extra stiffness causes other issues, even with a perfect fit. Your foot still wants to pronate but it is now leaning up against an unforgiving wall and keeps banging against this with every step you take. I have seen many examples where this has lead to blisters and irritated tendons. You either adjust the skate to suit your bio mechanics or you retrain as I have done and many others are successfully doing, the skate itself doesn't fix anything.