Mimizk

What tools Crosby, Ovechkin, McDavid and McKinnon use is not our concern. Because we are not Crosby, Ovechkin, McDavid or McKinnon. To be more specific, we are different, especially in power, including weight. I weigh about 72-74 kg, which is light compared to most NHL players. Leg strength is clearly inferior. When such an amateur wants to enjoy playing ice hockey, sharpening by the RoH may cause inconvenience. This is because the groove depth and blade angle are inseparable and non-selectable. We little guys need a sharp angle that bites properly against the ice with poor weight, but we don't need a groove depth that bites deeply. If the latter is too deep, it will cause unpleasant vibrations and loss of control. The advantage of the flat bottom sharpening is that the blade angle and groove depth can be selected separately. It does not matter whether the blade is trapezoidal in shape or not. In this respect, flat bottom sharpening may outperform round groove grinding, but it is not inferior at all. I repeat. It can be compatible that people of good physique do not need the FBV and that we need FBV. I just choose not to mention it because I am not a big man, but even a big man may feel the need for FBV in some situations for his own reasons. You can choose the suitable method that you need. It is really great that you have no complaints at all about RoH. I am envious. I'm not, which is why I love FBV 100/50 .

Thank you Buzz, ProSharp is great company. In this case, I'd like to make sure about what you would have recommended me. Your pasted link shows a leather horn. But also ProSharp uses a ceramic horning stone before that to deburr for the coating blade. So I guess the ProSharp's leather horn / leather strop works as wipe off the slightly stayed burr at last rather than main deburring. Do you use the ProSharp leather horn alone? Or with ceramic horning stone?

Thank you guys, I've read your posts. To sum it up... 1) It can deburr with cheaper thing even if it is a gummi like material stone. 2) So there is less value to pay expensive money for genuine stones for example SPARX or STEP's. 3) Fine ceramic honing stone is also better as gummi stone. ...right?

I'm going to buy a honing stone which can be used for coated skate blades like STEP Black Steel. I could find some rubber or clay honing stones below though, which one is better choice? I'd like to hear someone's favorite. 1) SPARX "Coated Steel Kit" 2) Max-Performance Sports "Clay Honing Stone for Hockey Blacksteel Runners" 3) Wholesale Skate Sharpening "Blacksteel Hone - Rubber" 4) CCM (STEP) "Honing Stone & Cloth Kit" 5) Nash Sports "Black Steel Honing Stone"

I don't intend to talk something about these but I post these documents on here to expect that it would help someone. (I made these documents to explain about FBV for my friend; forgive me if somewhere is wrong) The last one is an edge comparison picture using real edge angle of all xx/50 spinners but please note that the colors are not matching with the other charts. Just I've used color gradation to make the illustration be clear.

Also I was confused by the mismatch between the genuine TRUE holders and VH boots' outsole. Oppositely, compatibility with CCM XS holders is really good. It looks like "true" genuine holder for the VH boots. + genuine TRUE holders + CCM SpeedBlade XS holders

I've started using my 4th VH skates. These pair have completely granted my wishes. I'm really satisfied with them. Especially "built in medial shims" solved problems that have caused by external shims which I have used on past my VH boots. The compatibility between VH boots and CCM holders is also great. No longer I don't feel any negative points except heavy weight. Options: 1) Enhanced side wall protection 2) Metatarsal tongues 3) Built-in heel lift shims (+3mm) 4) Built-in medial shims (+3mm) 5) Additional instep volume control 6) CCM SpeedBlade XS holders 271 7) Sidas Conformable insoles 8) 72" unwaxed laces

I've been using a lot of pairs of Warrior franchise gloves. I really love them. Then I want to repair its gusset leather. Usually I use my local shop to repalm the palm leather only. But the shop can't repair gusset leather because they can't supply gusset leather themselves. I know that some famous repalming shops can repair gusset. They supply the gusset leather by themselves by cutting it off from sheet leather. My local shop answered me that maybe they can repair if they can get the material. So I want to buy the material leather, but I can't find it out. Is it the true name of the leather that the "Nash" or "Micronash"? For example I can find "Clarino" leathers on the internet stores because it is a true name of the leather which has created and named by Kuraray Inc. But I can't find "Nash" leather. Anyone knows some good stores who deal with "Nash" or "Micronash" leather?

Just made up my newest version of copy-grip. I'm glad that I could make it in this year.

First, cut off some wood timbers to 15.5*25.5*145mm. This is just my geometry. If you want more long grip, you need extension as you want. The square,15.5*25.5 is much important number. So I cut a timber little big and after change it slowly with something like plane or files. After all, cut some corners off if as the wooden core can be set in your silicone mold. Make silicone mold of your master piece. It's better to coating your master with primer/surfacer because resin have construction factor. Before casting, coat wooden core with something like varnish to prevent bubbling. Set wooden core into the silicone mold and cast epoxy resin. Now as you know I'm considering to order my new sticks. I bought a QRL stick from my local shop though, I can test it under very average environment. I'm feeling it was really good work for my hockey life.

57g... I don't know its wood kinds but the general wooden plug we can buy our local hockey shop with the same length as my copy grip. 46g... The origin wooden grip which was made from 5*5cm some kinds of ash wood timber. All wood, no resin. 62g... One of the copy grip which you can see my put photo, the brighter color one. Some kind of pagoda tree and resin covering. 76g... The other one of the grip on the photo. Darker one. Lace wood with resin covering. If want to prevent being going to heavy or coming babbles up, coat the wood core before casting. But it's troublesome for me...X)

The amount of end grip is not big. So I can't say this heavy though, also can't say light against general end grips which have been sold in local hockey shops. Because its wood core vacuumed much of epoxy resin until resin would harden. And also probably you can see babbles around top of the end grip. This is not came when I did casting, but also had taken slow times and came out from inside of wooden core instead of infiltrated epoxy resin.

I've made some end grips which have exactly the same shape. Wooden core and epoxy resin covering. I usually bring 3 sticks to the game and each sticks have been cut at different length. Then I choose one from that according to my feeling after warmup. But I noticed that I felt shorter one as long and longer one as short by very slightly difference of my end grip. So I decided to make this copy grips. I don't know whether this is really true though, I heard that usually people call such this method as "insert casting". I will make 4 or more copy grip for my ice and floor sticks. Already bought many different kinds of timber. So also looking forward to see another beauty wood grains :)

I have been thinking the same thing long time. The lacross elbow pads looks so mobile but someone told me as that lacross elbows don't have enough protection for playing hockey safety. How do you feel about this point? I want to hear your opinion.

I've found this photo on Instagram. The person who uploaded this photo is a pro hockey player and have been using X02 and some spinners include this one for 2~3years. Usually he sharpen only his skates. Also he is troubled with vibration of X02. I've seen the construction of X02 for the first time though, I can't stop to say its design is so bad. I guess, the spindle and bearing settings are DIY level... X01/02 use small grinding stones, so it needs more rev than 8inch sharpeners. General thinking, we may think it should be needed reinforcement of spindle unit, but this machine is opposite.