bunnyman666

I guess the next question is this: can you spec more beef in the construction of your boot if you’re buying goalie boots? I can take care of that *if* needed; I’d rather they build it beefier than me adding my own protection. They will make it purtier than I; though my mould making skills are improving again. A mask may be finished as early as June as I almost have the shape I want and I will be refining the mould. Sorry for the digression. I’d rather not mod a brand new product if avoidable, besides the installation of a pair of Overdrives! Repair of the blade holder would be very easy if anything were to happen to it and that is actually making me feel better about buying the one piece.

I hope this fixes the problem! Sending positive vibes, friend!

It would not be all that hard to fix, frankly.

I actually use it to prevent slipouts more than anything! John MacLeod, the Overdrive creator, moves with these in a way that one could only dream of. The one thing I loved about cowling-free was that these weren’t needed for me! Originally, they were developed because he sharpened his skates beyond sharpening (pre-replaceable runners on cowlings). A young Jonathan Quick used these back in the day.

Or @Nicholas G, it was explained by a more eloquent guy. ^

In essence, they go on the outsole and prevent slippage and help movement in the crease. Once you experience them, it all comes together. Not my website, by the way. I just sell the blades at my sharpening business.

Yesterday was a real test for the J-pouch. Let’s just say that what the surgeon warned me about came true in spades. I hope today is a better day!

Looking into the one piece goalie skate. Of course I have to see if I could install an Overdrive blade on the skate; if so- it will be bought for my business! I have to have a pair to show that it can be done! Bwahaha!!! Anywho- I will be very interested in seeing how the scan process will be compared to the tracing process. I am kind of hoping they could refer to how my last boot was built, as it is damned close to perfection! Do they still take into account all of your sore spots? Has anyone here ordered the one piece goal skate? If so, how do you like it?

15 minutes is an eternity as far as warm up. Not from the standpoint of being too long, but just from the standpoint that usually warmups are five minutes max. I have found that getting in the reps is what I needed as far as tracking the puck, i.e. glove, blocker, right and left pads as well as the body shots.

Thank you. I am just bitter enough that I will have to keep fighting! I am in a LOT of pain right now.

Just had my possibly last surgery for closing my loop illeostomy. This is supposed to be the easiest one. Needless to say this had been rough. Bleeding out my bum, pain meds barely touching the pain, puking after having an ice lolly and getting a straight catheter every few hours has been less that fun. Ugh.

Sorry to read that. I hope for the best possible outcome for you.

If you think about it, the full 9 mm difference is pushed forward. 9mm is half an inch-ish. Think of the difference between the feel of goal skates and player skates. It is a totally different feel on ice. 4.5 mm each way forward and aft gets into the “hardly feeling it” territory. 280mm is a LOT of runner on a small skate like a size 7.5, getting into goalie skate territory. But my untrained mind would say that 280 gives one more to play with as far as getting blades profiled. But then again- we’re talking pro stock and mainly pro return at that- could be an experiment that failed for the skater in question.

Confirmed what I had originally thought. That is lazy.

Just what I suspected on using the rear holes. That is LAZY. @JR Boucicaut I can’t see any shoppe worth their salt taking on that job for the reasons stated. I have, unfortunately, had a few barbarians drill unnecessary holes in my boots, too, in one of those operations I had described! Just because a place has “pro skate repair” on their shingle, that shingle does not make anyone in the shoppe an expert! Knowing that many of the good repair guys are gone from the “good” hockey stores, I know I would be sending my stuff to you. @Nicholas G I hope your friend can get satisfaction from the shoppe in question. I have had both 272mm and 263mm holders installed on 7.5 boots in a few brands. The 272mm were usually on higher end skates, but not always. Sometimes, I think they throw on whatever they have in the bin, to be blunt with you. If they are out of 272’s, they will throw on 263’s.

@Nicholas GNot any of the three named, but the install looks pretty hinky to me. I would not be leaving the shoppe without giving the manager an ear full! I may not an expert on skate repair, but I know when the rivets were cranked too hard! I have seen a few skates in my shoppe that had cracked holders in spots that had over-cranked rivets. I have that exact installation done (272mm holder on a size 7.5 boot) on all of my player skates and eyeballing those pix, I would expect to be pitched too far forward with the placement. From my untrained eye, it looks like they mounted using the existing holes from the old holders on the heel of the boot. I may be wrong here, but that’s what it looks like from the pix.

For me, the Sparx is worth its weight in gold @bflohcky. You are a great candidate for the machine. You are actually the profile for whom they built this machine. I am obsessed with perfect edges and was spending a king’s ransom on that pursuit. This has already paid off for me. You will see literal cost savings.

Unfortunately too much truth in that statement...

Nope, nor without even or consistent pressure. But if the choices are crummy or no sharpening and this devise, this sounds like a better option than going without, and certainty better than some edge refreshing methods. Some hand sharpeners don’t get a good, level and consistent edge, either. I am not a hater and there have been times where a slam into the post made me wish I had a tool like this on the bench.

What does this devise do to the sides of the runner? Is it safe for polished or coated steel? It won’t round off steel like I have seen some edge fresheners do, will it?

Funny, ‘cos mine are easy on and off, and my heel lock is slightly less. I can even wear a thin sock with mine now. Never used a shoe horn with the exception of the first few times wearing them. Mine were transition era VH/True (VH branding).

One more session of drop in. Kick saves, a few stinker goals and finally got into a rhythm. Then it was time to go home.

Last Sunday was another Drop in played. Only a few more weeks before getting chopped on for hopefully the last time.

I would not say even duped. Technically, since the heel and the quarter are together, it would qualify as one piece. Is there a performance benefit? Probably not except that the heel and quarter are stiffer and theoretically would not flex from each other. If the outsole is the same type of composite glued on, then there is another layer or two of fabric on top, then it would technically be one piece. So I would not say you’ve been duped; a 100% singular boot with outsole would most likely be very expensive with little to no benefit. True’s boot is not one piece for certain! It’s like a monocoque fuselage- many pieces compose the “mono” of the monocoque. I now want to watch the video @flip12 referenced. Now I am curious, myself.

“One piece” in composites can be a misnomer. I have not seen the assembly of any CCM “one piece” boots, but can say with certainty that many “one piece” composite items are not always one piece and can merely be finished as one piece. When the pieces are bonded together, they do act as one piece! I am thinking that the quarters and heel are the one piece and the outsole and insole are glued on/in. Many times, two halves are bonded together to make one piece in the midst of the manufacturing process. If there were truth in advertising laws governing truly “one piece” composite structures, I could think of few that would be telling the truth!