shoot_the_goalie

The original 8mm socket I got with the skates was no longer able to fit and grab the bolt, probably cause over time the bolt hole deformed a little. So I just got a cheaper new 8mm nut driver socket with thin sidewalls and that did the trick. It does make you really appreciate all the new tech with the newer gen holders. (triggers, nut screws, etc)

I spot 3 major design areas that could use refinement - 1) the toe cap, 2) the holder, 3) the carbon fiber bulge at the heel of the boot. But like I said, I'll take functionality in a skate over design any day, but don't think the two need to be mutually exclusive either.

Still rocking the original True SVH customs and still love them, but man, True skates still look ugly. You would think after all these years they would finally have a good looking custom boot. I get fit is paramount, but....

Forget it. Got a different nut driver and problem solved.

Still using the old True Step holder and having trouble now getting the bolts unscrewed. I know it's an 8mm nut driver, but the driver doesn't seem to be setting on the bolt and/or the bolt is stuck. Any ideas on how to get the bolt loose?

Isn't it a Pro Stock Hockey Stick? Covered in some other thread.

Is there a real tangible benefit from the 3D printed tongues? I'm due for a new set of tongues, and not sure if it's worth the cost vs. the traditional ones.

I loved the RBZ when I was wearing them. Quicklites, were more "boxy" to me and didn't love them. I'm in FT4 Pros now which I love, except for that small protrusion on the top of the backplate which always gets caught on my jerseys. FT6 I believe has it as well. In general I thought the QLT line was a miss by CCM. CL, RBZ, FT lines are all great.

Jetspeeds. FT4 Pros are great. FT6 Pros are very good too, but less adjustability and customization than the FT4s. If you really want to go streamlined and light and don't need that much protection, you can always try out referee shinguards.

Bauer ProSharp Machine Out of curiosity has anyone used this machine? How does it compare to the Sparx?

I wonder if that happens if you sweat a lot and then don't dry out your helmet. Sweat can be very caustic.

I have both the Total Custom version and the retail version. Small areas of lattice have "broken" but nothing major, and easily repairable with some glue (just be very careful and precise with the glue and don't use Krazy Glue cause it's more caustic than other glues on the market and will slightly degrade the lattice material). I do find the custom has a higher level of "memory" with the foam, which isn't great, but it's not an issue as of now. The custom lattice doesn't have as good of a "bounce back" like the retail version. The trade off of course is that the custom is way more comfy and proper fitting.

posted

Was taking out my gear tonight, and when I was taking my helmet out, this popped out on the floor. Anyone know what this part is? About the size of a thumbnail. I don't see anything missing from my helmet after careful inspection, so could be from another piece of gear. I have mostly CCM gear if it helps.

How I deal with pain as I get older: -always stretch. dynamic stretch before activity, and static stretch after activity -keep in shape, especially muscle work. as we get older our muscle tissue wears down causing more stress on joints/ligaments. Proper sleep is also very important. -if I have a specific painful area, but I know I can play on it without making it worse, I take some liquid capsaicin and apply to the area and then wear a brace or tape over. The burn distracts your nervous system from the other localized pain for a few hours. I find Icy Hot, BenGay, etc doesn't work nearly as well. -Ibuprofen is your friend, but don't take too much as it can screw up your digestive system too.

Great to hear! Skate, skate, and skate....get on the ice as much as you can, whether it's on a pond, public skate, beginner lessons, stick & puck, etc. Try having a friend or someone close to you join the journey with you to make it more fun and motivating.

Hmmm....I just use Lysol spray. Usually the type that has the least amount of scent to it.

FoxRiver liners, for the price, are very durable (even though very thin), and very good at moisture wicking. Thinees are more like pantyhose with a reinforced toe. So they don't deal with moisture as well imho.

Why wouldn't 3d printing be a viable option here? It all depends on which material you use. CF would probably work as well as ABS. Obviously don't use something like PLA....

No idea, but wonder if you could 3d print it?

I second FoxRiver. They're great and pretty durable for how thin they are.

I have a custom and a retail. I don't notice the difference in weight, except that one has a visor vs a cage. If I had to guess, I would think the custom is slightly heavier, cause it has a more dense 3d lattice vs the retail version. I would highly recommend the custom though over the retail, cause for the price difference, the custom is a much better helmet imho.

I use FT4 Pro shoulders too. The Hex shirt pads sometimes get "caught" on the ft4 pro side panels which can be slightly annoying. However I’ve also tried the EvoShield shirt with the rigid rib pads which are WAY more protective than the HEX, but also much more obtrusive.

I have these after I got cross checked to the ribs: https://www.mcdavidusa.com/collections/hex-padded-tops/products/hex-basketball-tank-3-pad They're not perfect but they're the closest thing I've used that is also the least obtrusive. Once the rib bruising went away however, I stopped using it. So for me, it's not a preventative piece of gear...more to protect an already compromised area. McDavid also makes this which can be cut to size as needed: https://www.mcdavidusa.com/products/hex-skin-turf-tape

neodymium magnet with the appropriate pull force also will work.