ViperRy

I have the hockeyshot revolution tiles. I’m not a big fan for skating or puck glide. Its ok for both, but does not excel in either. Very nice to have to borders and the versatility of small tiles, however I would look at other synthetic ice manufacturers. Something to think about: I was just like you thinking I would strap on skates all the time, but I haven’t since I first got the tiles. If I were to do it again I’d get some dryland with great puck glide.

Taking a snap shot while in stride is the most deceptive shot. Usually done with weight transfer to the inside leg. Gosinger has got it down. Visually, howtohockey on youtube has some solid vids to get you on the right path as well. Not a tutorial, but what you want to do in stride is something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRsfDZ5ga1c Some howtohockey snapshot vids: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsxYCuu-DUY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUnHfAiBfSA

Lol my mistake. I just re-read the op and I completely must have mis-read it on mobile the first time. Anyways, it still may add some value because he was comparing to the CCM/Reebok. The HM uncrested may actually be normal in sizing in the sense they are cut larger than the CCM where, in our experience, was cut smaller than most other jerseys.

I stated “unless something has changed”. This was our whole team’s experience with the reebok uncrested NHL Jerseys. They are a much tighter fit. Just relaying our experience with Jerseys op was refrencing cause we all know most sizing charts are not always accurate for the particular garment on online retail sites.

Step is a great runner - both the V steel and Blacksteel. Precise width down the runner on my calipers, doesn't bur much, and from my understanding as about as straight as they come for a runner. I run the blacksteels personally and never had a problem getting them in and out of multiple Tuuk Edge holders. I take them out of the runners to sharpen on the sparx all the time.

Our team used the Dallas Reebok uncrested jerseys which are now badged CCM. Unless something has changed, definitely size up. Whole team complained their normal size was too small.

Damn, I didn't know they stopped selling the cross grinder, just thought they were OOS. I should have bought the ring when I had the chance. Now I need it and have to drive to a lhs.

Wouldn't more blade on the ice make him faster or glide better with the Mars? Less agile, I understand that.

Am I reading this right... he feels more forward flex with the supreme because his ankles are skinnier? I dropped to the second eyelet on my Vapors to get more forward flex and am happy. Ankles and heel lock are good and I still get the forward flex I need.

Old thread but just to add to what everyone else is saying for future viewers, the off ice tiles will get your basic motions down for muscle memory. However, I noticed that some things like saucing and shooting were definitely different due to height, using a shorter stick, added friction. I ended up getting the skatable tiles so I can strap on a pair of old skates and use my current stick. At least this eliminates a couple of the variables but not the added friction.

Funny I thought the same thing regarding price when looking at the top sticks from CCM. Picked up a Jetspeed in P28 and its working out well. I do like the "hybrid" kick point, snap shots come off just as hard as my True sticks. Coming from P92 I'm adjusting to the new curve.

Along with what others have stated above, puckstop.com will ship from the UK. I would make that the last resort because they are fairly expensive. There are some Canadian shops that will ship as well.

Another update, I took a pic side by side of my left and right runner after sharpening with my sparx. Left is runner had 35 passes with intermittently running the speed skate under the faucet. Right side left alone after sharpening. In person, you can see that the runner which had passes with the speed skate has a shinier polished finish.

You're right, I should re-state that I'm speaking from experience solely in my area - MD/DC/NoVA. Also, I may not be privy to other mail in sharpeners that do FBV and with the rep of no-icing.

I gave FBV a serious shot for months. Sent in runners numerous times to NoIcing so I know I was getting a quality cut. I went back to roh and was a stronger skater although I could feel the slight loss of glide. Then I got a sparx sharpener and have been pleased the FIRE cut. For me, The feeling FIRE gave me on my skates was in-between FBV and roh. I switch back and forth sometime between 5/6 fire and 11/16" ROH. From my understanding, the tolerances are higher for FIRE whereas the tolerances for fbv are super low. If you're not getting your runners cut by extremely experienced and meticulous sharpener like NoIcing, I suggest sticking with FIRE. Your edges have to be close to dead even for a proper FBV cut. Moreover, sparx did a study testing numerous runners and holders. Almost all had some bend to them either due to the runner having a bend, the holder bending the runner, or both. The higher end runners like step having minimal. Even with the slightest bend fbv will lack an edge somewhere down the runner due to the low tolerance. This is why I take my runners out of the holder when sharpening for any grind just cause its very easy with the tuuk edge holders and it eliminates that variable. This is my opinion through my own research. Take it for what its worth, but I suggest you do your own research on fbv, tolerances, bends in runners/holders, ect. If you are going to stick with FBV, I would have no one else but NoIcing sharpen your runners. I tried a couple LHS that I let FBV cut my spare runners when my main set was out at NoIcing. When trying them I would randomly hit the deck cause of no edge. For what its worth, I can get my runner's edges after a Sparx fire cut down to what I believe is two ten-thousandths off when checking them with my HDI.

Bauer edge with step steel all the way man. I personally was not a fan of the SB4.0+. Plus, you can pull the runner off the edge easily to make sure you get a sharpening not effected by the holder possibly bending the runner. SB4.0 you have to apply thread locker everytime you pull the runner and make sure its dry before you hit the ice (Ive had a screw back out).

Thanks qmechanic / DRR! This settles it, the S has to be the designation for small. DRR, I agree.. I got one in today. I may have to get another to hoard haha. qmechanic: I actually read one of your review posts on the FX50 on here from 2007!

I would suggest moving to 9/16" first then try 5/8" if you feel strong on the 9/16. Summer ice can vary in softness in different areas.

Had to edit the the post, it was an "S" on the end, not a 5.

Hey, bringing up some old equipment, but does anyone know the difference between the itech FX50 and FX50S hybrid shields? The only difference I can see in pictures is that one is labeled FX50 and the other is labeled FX50S on the side clips. They came in 2 sizes I believe. One was the "standard", and the other was the "small". Can someone confirm the S on the side is for the "small"?

So I got a back to back skate in with runners that received passes with the wissota speed stake and runners that didn't. Both runners were step blacksteels with a 5/8" Fire cut on my sparx. Results: I did notice a fairly minimal increase in glide. I tried to replicate the same push on both sets of runners, tried one footed glides, ect. The bottom finish of the sparx cut did look slightly more polished after passes with the speed skate. Note that I'm utilizing multiple items that are supposed to increase glide such as the blacksteels and the flat bottom fire cut. The speed stick will most likely be more effective or a more significant difference may be felt on non dlc coated / polished steel and non flat bottom. Conclusion: For a guy that is always trying to find that extra edge, $45+shipping for the long term use of this device is worth it to me.

Hey, the 18 SBP grip plays like my other 85 flex mid kick sticks and I do notice the difference from the 95 flex 17 model I have as well. Check this site out, it lists actual flex at different sections of quite a few top end sticks. Has Last yr's A6.0 as well as the XC9 on there. http://twu.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/hockeyflex.php

You're supposed to have you're hands out in front and when striking the ice before the puck on say a snap shot, your top hand should be in front of your bottom to create some load/flex. I believe what the elevate stick is essentially doing is this. It creates the load on the stick easier with the bend in the shaft.

Did you lace them up when you’re hands were sweaty or damp and your skin soft? I remember tighteting my laces up after a game period and the waxed laces ripped a chunk of skin right off my finger, took a bit to fully heal.

Thanks for the update Mark. I spoke to a gentlemen at Wissota and he said it should definitely help after a sparx sharpening, which I use, more so than a experienced pro at an LHS. Once mine arrives I’ll post an update as well. I have spare runners with the edge holders so I’ll try a back to back swap at the rink.