th6252

So I pulled out an unused A6.0 I got on sale a while back when total hockey was still a thing and I had this issue as well, along with my other 2. So I took some goof off and an old sock turned inside out and the adhesive came right off. Took me maybe a total of 10 min to do and I now a relatively gloss finished stick with no damage to the paint. Thanks for the tip!

No idea, just thought it felt and looked a little weird. I’m used to seeing the front tip of the Holder sticking out the front of the boot a bit when looking down at the skates. I know all skates/holders are constructed differently, but it’s not something I was used to seeing.

Good to know thanks!

Yeah, I assume the holder thing is a fairly easy fix for a competent shop to do, but (not that I pretend to know much a swapping holders) it didn’t seem there was much real estate on the outsole go go bigger.

Had a chance to try on the TF9 over the weekend and I gotta say, fit for me was nearly spot on...just a few small hotspots that I’m pretty sure can be punched out. Had to go down a half size which is nice since it puts me into a jr boot and an extra $200 savings which makes them an even better deal than they already are. Now the negatives(for me). I just didn’t like the thin stock tongue. I was surprised because usually this kind of thing doesn’t bother me and I’m fine with whatever typically comes stock. The nice thing is the boots have a good amount of depth so it should be no problem if I want to swap out to a thicker felt tongue. Not sure if I missed it earlier in the thread but has it been confirmed that you’re able to order felt tongues from True? The other negative for me is along with going down a half size in the boot comes a smaller holder, 246, than I’d like(used to 254, and even 263). Just kind of threw me off. But again, should be a simple fix if the larger holder will fit on the boot.

Check IW

While already seemingly a great value for high end skates, they’ve become all the more tempting for me now with the limited time rebate program.

Too bad man. But hopefully this will be a new beginning to your hockey journey and you’ll find a team you’ll be happier with. Good luck!

Maybe check out the Sherwood Rekjer line. The shoulder caps seem pretty low profile on them and they have the adjustable biceps guards.

2n doesn't exist in 13, i think they stopped making nexus 13" in the previous generation.

if you can, try to find a place that has a computerized traction(cervical decompression, not static traction) machine. that and targeted exercises may be the only thing that saves you from more aggressive medical intervention.

The pinky and ring finger are innervated by nerve roots C7 and C8. Can make an argument the C5 and C6 was causing the shoulder symptoms, but not at all when it comes to the fingers. Also, the fact that the medrol dose pack did nothing to alleviate your symptoms is alarming. Honestly, you really need an MRI ASAP with your constant radicular symtoms and weakness. Likely the only reason they're having you do a month of conservative treatment first is because your insurance likely won't authorize the test without it.

Yeah, I wasn’t sure what was going on until I just saw your post. I just checked another A6.0 I forgot I had that I’d cut but never prepped for use and noticed the same sticky feeling. ...nothing that a bit of matte clear coat can’t fix.

Yes, I noticed it in my A5.2 and A6.0(the original line). I hadn’t played in almost 2 years and noticed they both felt very tacky. Was assuming it was coming from either residue on my gloves or residue from the cohesive grip tape on the handle that I hadn’t changed in a few years.

I’ve dealt with a similar issue as well, but my shins may not be quite as short as yours. What ended up working for me eventually was the Bauer Pro Series shins that came out in 2010. They were the predecessor to nexus protective and came in adult 13” size so they were noticeably deeper fitting than any other 13” jr shin on the market(including the top of the line Reebok 10k at the time).and I also found they tended to run a touch shorter than anything else on the market. I also remember checking out the the Nexus 8000 line as well looking for a possible replacement down the road in case my pro series went caput and found they had a very similar fit as well. So maybe check to see if you can find nexus 8000(or even 6000) in 13”.

typically no dye necessary for spinal mri's when looking for disc issues. dye is sometimes necessary when looking for a labral tear because it can be difficult to pick up on the images and the dye will fill any cracks or tears in the cartilage.

can't really be sure, but it sounds like a lower neck problem. C7 innervates the triceps and middle finger, while C8 innervates the ring and pinky. go see either a good musculoskeletal based chiropractor or ortho (preferably not an urgent care facility or a gp/pcp as they tend to really be terrible with musculoskeletal and nerve injuries) to get a proper work up asap. the longer you let that nerve issue go, the higher the chance it can cause permanent issues.

does the tingling in the arm start above(shoulder side) or below(wrist side) the elbow. which part of your hand/fingers are involved(last 3/pinky, ring and middle or first 3/thumb, pointer and middle)? the way you're describing it, it could be anything from a pinched nerve in the neck(due to a disc issue, degeneration, arthritis or combo of things), to thoracic outlet syndrome(from a possible 1st rib issue or something muscular like spastic scalenes) to ulnar tunnel syndrome along with a bunch of other possibilities. doubtful that the bone spur in your humerus is causing that. but the fact you're having some weakness in your arm/hand is no bueno. that likely means there is some chronicity to your issue and likely some nerve damage going on in which the impingement on whatever nerve(s) involved needs to alleviated asap along with some therapy to assist in regeneration of the nerve(s). regardless, you need to be properly examined so that course of treatment can be administered asap to limit any possible nerve damage.

just checking in to see if you've had any luck in finding anything that works. i have the same problem as you being cursed with short arms, i also have an issue with most elbow pads butting up against the cuff of my gloves(always try to look for the shortest fitting 13" gloves i can find). the best pair that worked for me were the old reebok 20k's in small which were just barely wide enough to accommodate my forearms, but they're on their last legs and i need a replacement. i remembered the original rbz's and the ft1's in medium were a pretty good option as well back then but i was satisfied with my 20k's at the time.

i saw that post as well and can't say i necessarily agree with the 5100 and 4500 being the biggest helmets. they can fit on the large side if you have a "long" head front to back, but not so great for wider heads. i have a biggish and wide head and wore the 5100 for 3 or so seasons. although it was the best fit i could find at the time, i went on to try the reakt when they came out and felt they fit larger all the way around for me. depth was similar, but noticeably wider and just had an overall "larger" feel to it. I was wearing a L 5100 adjusted roughly half way open, but the L in the ims 9.0 i eventually settled into (which has the same fit as reakt) i have almost all the way closed and could almost fit into a M all the way open. ymmv.

Yeah, too bad as I was looking forward to checking them out.

Not sure if this the place or time to put this question, but does anyone know if the QL gloves replace the KFS or CL's? Was assuming the CL considering the tapered fit while the KFS was a contour fit.

Just picked up a pair of M8's....baked, sharpened and ready to go. Gonna hit up a stick and puck tomorrow to see how I like 'em. Took me nearly 3 hours to decide between these and Graf 9035's, but the 30 day trial period promo Easton is running ultimately won me over. Hopefully I don't have to go back and return them for the graf's, but it's nice to have that option.

they're listed in the catalog so i'd assume yes.

not sure how long they were in for as i was chatting with the rep and trying on a pair of graf's too at the time. i wanna guess under 10 min or so though. they certainly weren't any more pliable than any other skate i've had heat molded before which is why i was suspecting they weren't in for long enough. as far as temperature, i really have no idea. that's the main reason i didn't pick them up on the spot because even though they felt pretty good even being inadequately heated, i was thining they should've been more pliable. that's the reason i came in here looking for advice before i went back. think i read these should be done 1 skate at a time for 15 min at a temp of 200F? thanks for the help!