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Sniper9

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Everything posted by Sniper9

  1. That's the cage version of the visit flip lol. Aka monahan, kronwall, hagelin etc.
  2. If they're anything like the as1, the boots are very spot heat mouldable with a heat gun. You could get easily great up an area and form it with ease. I did this when I had mine. You have to be careful bc they heat up fast and get super soft.
  3. Guess you'll hate me for posting this then..... https://hockeysupremacy.com/en/helmets/visors/bauer-hdo-deluxe-replacement-lens-2-sets.html They don't make them anymore but some places still have stock
  4. You're looking for the actual screws that have the flush top vs the dome shape that all other screws are like, am I correct? Most pro shops should have the hardware kit but it will come with the plastic clips too. Also what would have been cheaper and more economical is to buy the two pack replacement visor and the hardware set separate (this is about 10-15 bucks). When u buy the single visor it's one visor and hardware for 99. (or equivalent in USD). If you're in Canada, here. https://cyclonetaylor.com/bauer-pro-clip-side-kit-1-set-2017.html If you don't want to buy the kit with clips u may have to just go to the hardware store to find the equivalent. Bring your helmet posts to ensure the threads are the same
  5. By instep do u mean arch. Instep is on the top of your foot , the area where lace bite generally occurs with ppl.
  6. I'm 5'10 165. I cut my sticks 2.5" from the standard 60". Interested to see how the 68 flex works for me. Used the 75 flex true a6.0ht yesterday and was very happy with it coming off of the ek365 75 flex which played more like an 80-85. Clappers with the ek was better, prob the best with any stick I've used. The true 75 was good as well but def felt the stick bend a lot more and although velocity seemed to be there I rarely gor it over 2-3 feet off the ice, whereas with the ek365 it was bar down almost every time. I guess it's a give and take going with diff flexes.
  7. I'll let you know. 75 is fine for me but I've always wanted to try something with a lot of whip. When cut down my 75 is closer to an 80. I'm 5'10 165-170 lbs so the 75 is technically the "ideal" flex for me even cut down. I cut my sticks 2.5 inches on 60" sticks. I have no problems getting my stick to flex but wanted to try one flex eating lower just bc it seems like what all the cool kids in the pros are doing these days. Or petterson Matthews etc. The intermediate true in 68 flex is listed at 58" tall so I'd still have to cut it about half an inch and would technically make it feel closer to 69-70 at most, so it's a good 10 flex in feeling drop from my cut down 75. Should be interesting to see how it feels. If you use your Sr sticks full length you def would need an extension, and that would make the stick feel even more whippy than 68... I think big you went from 75 to something as low as 60-65 with an extension it would be too much of a change.
  8. Ya warrior Easton's in the past. And even Bauer I remember we're significantly thinner. That's why I was hesitant with true. I did pull the trigger and ordered myself two a6.0 ht intermediate sticks online as they were on clearance for 129 each. I use a 75 sr true now and always wanted to try the newer 70 flex seniors. I figure 68 flex is close enough and for the price it's worth the experiment especially of the shaft dimensions are the same as the Sr.
  9. That's great to hear. I never realized that some brands made intermediate options, were made with the same dimensions as Sr, except being shorter.
  10. Anyone know whether Trues intermediate sticks have a smaller diameter shaft and smaller blade vs the Sr?
  11. Stock up when u find a good one when on clearance.
  12. If anything maybe reach out to true and see if they can redo the liner. If anyone can do it , it should be them. They do offer repairs. It be warned their repair work can seem pretty sub par sometimes.
  13. Just put the CCM vr25 on my warrior Alpha one pro and no issues with the screw sitting flush with the spacers and screws it came with.
  14. Have two 6.0 ht on order as they are marked down most places. Got two for 180 cdn shipped. I've used the a5.2 in the past so interested to see how different they feel.
  15. I noticed when the tongue is adjusted higher away from the toebox, it actually alters how close my toes are to the end of the toe cap. With it in a somewhat neutral position my toes were feathering the toe cap. When I moved my tongue forward to reduce the height of the toecap (which I like) I noticed my toes jammed up against the end of the toecap more causing me to have to remove the black plug on each boot. But if yours didn't fit to the point u had to use superfeet, you should've gotten a remake.
  16. Do u check to see if there were toe plugs and try removing the red liner that's glued to the toecap
  17. I'm actually quite surprised that UA only had a temporary licensing agreement. Thought they bought out the company and when they stopped making it, it as game over.
  18. For me it wouldnt be bc of putting on and taking off as I can do so without a shoe horn and only top eyelet undone. I just find bc my ankles are so skinny that when I do a full and proper wrap it only leaves about 1.5 inches of space between opposing facings which, imo, cause a bit too much wrap when the laces are tied up. Not sure if it makes sense. Basically I want to reduce the volume of the boot and not have the facing wrapped as much as it does right now to achieve this. Here's a pic of what mine look like. The area between the facing gets reduced a bit more when tightened. Who knows. Maybe the skates were meant to wrap as much as possible so you're not so dependant on the actual laces in keeping the foot locked in and the volume of the boot can be altered simple by the facings wrapping more on a low volume foot and wrap less for a higher volume foot and the fit/performance isn't affected.
  19. U able post pics of the difference? Is the reduction throughout the entire facing or just the top 3-4 eyelets.
  20. As stated already the scan and current skate size is used to determine how you like your skates to fit. I like as little room as possible and like my toes to brush the cap. Some ppl like their skates half size bigger than that is considered a "proper" fit. Your fitter should make a note to have the skates built off the brannock and scan only and not previous skate size and holder size. And note whether you want no room or 1/2 size room in toe cap etc. Secondly you CAN get initials put on the low profile tongue. I've seen it. So not sure what is going on there on your end. It's literally the same piece of material sewn onto the low profile tongue as the other standard or t guard tongues. For me I could get my foot inside my skate pre bake as well bc I have pretty skinny ankles. I personally don't think true makes the eyelet/wrap area custom to your ankle size bc I've seen ppl with skates that vary from barely passing if not failing the pencil test to almost seeming as it the boot has too much volume. True can get away with this bc of how mouldable the boot, and in particular, the facing is. For my next pair I actually might request them to have the facing/eyelets reduced half an inch.
  21. I would choose the stock foot beds over super feet since the Trues arch is made to yours. Superfeet will defeat the purpose of the skate being custom.
  22. Ya wearing a jock over it was the only option I thought was effective without interfering with the x wrap. Kind of a pain since that's a lot of layers. I've since stopped using the core shorts as I found it actually gave me very tight hip flexors the day after being on the ice. It was good during the rehab of my groin tear though.
  23. I ditched both my red insoles and use speed plates I like it to be firm on the bottom of my feet and as little cushion as possible. Gives me better feel.
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