Sniper9

As others already mentioned. No red insole and tighten to only slack is gone. I'd even consider rebake with no red insole and tighten them at only 70% or so, especially the problem areas for you in terms of volume. You also have the option of getting the low profile tongues (unless you have those already) Do you fail the pencil test considerably or are they just tight width wise? The facings on the Trues have a lot of flexibility when heated up both in terms of accommodating wider feet and narrow. Can post pictures or where the problem areas are while on your feet? For me I have very skinny calves and ankles so I need as much wrap as possible or the shrink wrap method was mandatory. For u, you may be the group that don't even need to lace the top two eyelets while heat moulding the traditional way. I have a feeling your issue can be easily resolved with a proper rebake.

They skipped 2?

There's been promos by places like sportchek and prohockey for the rekker 365 for 129. Also warrior qredge sl for 150ish... Qx for similar price etc. Not sure if they are all still on sale. Sport cheks flash sales generally have the odd really good stick on sale. Mind you, you won't get current too end sticks for more than say 10-20% off.

Speedplates?

I just got ft1 shoulders. Got a pretty big discount on them. Would not pay retail for them as they are pretty much foam and a couple of rocket frame prices on the sternum and spine. Impressed at the weight and mobility though.

It's been circulating around Instagram. The new as2s.. ovechkin was one.. but I bet they are all just reskins.

My experience has been no more than 4 weeks. And lately everyone I've spoken to have said 3 weeks.

Why don't u just use their oven but do the wrapping yourself like I suggested earlier.

So just realized my trues only have 9 eyelets, obviously because they are made to the size of my feet / strategically placed. My as1s and previous Bauer's both had 10. Because I skip an eyelet on the Trues does that equate to almost two eyelets dropped on the as1s, esp because the as1s were even taller than it's predecessor? I already noticed even tying my trues all the way to the top I had quite a bit more flexion vs the as1s.

I don't understand why not all dealers are doing the recommended shrink wrap method though...

Can't go wrong since it's just plastic wrap 😁. Prob no worse than my dollar store one I got and that worked perfectly fine. When I got scanned my knees were directly over my toes but not past.... My next pair I might just have it slightly bent just behind the toes and see if that makes a diff... I have a feeling it won't really make a diff since the scan isn't the only thing they build off of. They also look at all the pictures of your feet and your foot on the brannock (mind you this is more for skate length)

It's not actual saran wrap it's shrink wrap for packaging. You can get it at any hardware store. Or you can get the food grade plastic wrap and cut the whole roll to the width you want.... I'm in Canada and my local dollar store had them for three bucks vs 10 at the hardware store. Or look on Amazon. As for the fit. Ppl who have thicker ankles I find seem to have less issues with fit when heat moulding the traditional way without shrink wrapping because they naturally require less wrap. My ankles are very skinny so I need the extra help in removing the negative space. Do the shrink wrap method and if you're still not happy, initiate a remake request. Imo you shouldn't need to do more than shrink wrapping if the skates are made inside out with ur foot last. No way during the build process the fit would have gone wonky to the point where you would need clamps etc. So if they don't fit the way you think it should from shrink wrapping, you're probably never going to be happy. But you have to decide whether they don't feel right bc you need to adjust to the feel or bc they straight up dont fit. I'd go for a few spins on the ice for sure before coming to a decision. I do wonder if the position you're feet are in during the scan can influence how the skates feel though.... If you're Inna deeper lunge vs more upright... It definitely Changes the angle of the ankle and shape of the heel... I can see if you're in a deeper lunge it can cause fitment issues bc your scanned ankle /knee flexion depth may be diff than during stride. That's my 2 cents at least.

Because you're so used to it and trained so much this way is heel lock even an issue or something you even think about during games with only four eyelets done? For the avg person I'm guessing there's no way it would provide any kind of heel lock, but for you, because of your technique, is it even apparent?

They are way stiffer in ur hands but skating wise they don't feel remotely as stiff as you think they will be. I can squeeze the as1s in my hands easier than my trues but the as1s felt stiffer while skating. Trues eyelets and height of the boot allows for proper forward flexion. I had to really loosen the top eyelet on my as1s to get a similar knee bend. Mind you I've never tried the mako so...

I get the benefit of skating with no laces and I already feel the benefits of my edges from recently dropping my top eyelet, but the thing i would be concerned about is my skates falling off lol. And I'm assuming this is more of a training technique? Couldn't imagine playing a game like that and not risking skates flying off the feet.

The thing about the Trues is that the facings are very stiff, so if they weren't heat moulded to wrap your feet completely with no negative space, you aren't going to be able to adjust the tightness that much with the laces alone since they won't really flex... That's why the saran wrap method is best. It saves the eyelets from stress and gives your a complete wrap around the whole boot from heel up. It moulds the skate so that you won't need to tighten the skates that much. You can still tighten with the laces but only incrementally, and nothing drastic. Like I said in my pm to u. Just get a separate thermometer and just be sure the overall heat in the oven doesn't pass 200.. I would even go on the safe side and keep it at around 180-190. 5-6 mins on each side and the skates will be super malleable. U can always test to see if they are ready by pressing the ankle areas. Those should be nice and soft. Do one skate at a time so you aren't rushing. And let the skates cool on ur foot for at least 15 mins. Watch some YouTube while it cools down. Lastly I'd tinker with removing the res insoles to see if that gives u a better feel. The extra mm or 2 lift it provides may be misaligning ur heel with the heel cup enough for you to notice issues. I found I preferred the feel with no red insole. Gave me better feel of the ice and boot.

Bauer and CCM total.customs are about 200 more than trues so the price isn't the same. Bauer and CCM skates are high pressure moulded to your custom skate last. True builds their skates around your last from the inside out. It's s totally diff process. Bauer and CCM don't incorporate a built in custom arch. True does. That's why CCM still includes the brutal orthomoves, and Bauer had the speedplates. True skates are a totally different feel and fit than Bauer and CCM so it's not for everyone. Even the scanning is done differently. Bauer you're standing. CCM you're sitting. True you're in a lunge position. Because the skates are built off those scans in diff positions, even if they are all custom to your foot, each skate will feel and fit differently. What you prefer is up to you... I've discussed it before in the true thread how the heel pocket is deeper because of how you're scanned and ppl feel that bc of this their heel doesn't feel as locked when standing or walking vs Bauer and CCM. U have to remember that Bauer and CCM skates are made from a scan of your foot that isn't in a dynamic position. So the heel pocket isn't as deep and feels snugger standing and walking. But on the ice we aren't upright. We're bent forward and knees ankles flexed. Again it's personal preference what you want in your skates and how you want them to feel. Crappy thing is you won't know until you try the Trues and usually it's getting a pair and spending the money, or trying to find a used pair that is ur size and hoping it's close to your specs so you have an idea what you're getting. If you're happy with Bauer or CCM retails for the most part minus a few minor things, it's probably safe to go with their custom version as there won't be any surprises. Going from Bauer or CCM to trues is a big change. When I first switched over it took me a good 12 skates to be comfortable and not thinking about how it felt different. There's def an adjustment period. Although the finish on the Trues can be hit or miss ,imo, the overall feel and construction of the true boots feel more sturdy and more durable. CCM and Bauer feel like a thin carbon layer over a thermoformable plastic whereas true feels rock hard and you know it's all carbon on the lower half. Also I've seen a few custom ccms that have uneven stitching etc. I think that's just what happens with custom skates that are ... Made in Canada? Lol. Seems like ppl criticize made in China or Asia stuff but they seem to know what they are doing with sewing machines vs North American factories. It's a dying skill in North America vs Asia. I'm sure all three brands are great skates but I'll say it again, it's all personal preference.

Looking at the holders from this angle it looks completely fine. The other set of pictures made them look really short like half in front and back. My bad! Hope I didn't make you sweat over nothing lol. You actually have no stick out on the rear... What is sticking out is the heel pocket which you don't measure from. You actually should be looking at the edge of the bottom where it's flat and uours looks like there pretty much zero gap. As for rebaking you can do it yourself it's easy. Just make sure you have a thermometer in ur oven and don't trust your ovens preset temp. Ive baked my trues a number of times myself. Just do one skate at a time so you aren't rushing. And be sure to use a shoe horn when putting them on. 180 Fahrenheit for 10-12 mins. I did about 6 mins a side and flipped them. If your oven has a convection option, even better. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.

I had issues with the as1 retail in the toe box area where it met the boot. Huge plastic bump digging into my pinky toe. Had to line it with thin foam. As for customizing the fit type if u scan a tacks but want an ft2... If there are volume issues wouldn't you have to get the ft2 but increase the facing? My belief was that they just make the boot the same way as retail except a few things like 1/4 sizing, eyelet options, stiffness, etc. And just high pressure mould the boot to your foot last for the "custom" fit portion.... So if u didn't get advanced facings on the ft2 wouldn't u still have volume issues?

I think it depends. The mouldability of the Trues is forgiving unless the width is off in the forefoot / toecap area by quite a bit. I guess the heel pocket size is an area that isn't that mouldable either esp if it's too large Retail skates are sized using the avg person in x sizes and width. Whereas a custom u might end up with someone with crazy proportions. But you're right, either options the skate wasn't made for u.

Pretty much majority cotton but I'm not down to spend 16usd for a pair of socks esp since the fabrics are pretty much same as most other cotton based socks. But I guess being waterproof it keep the water from soaking up the sock and transferring into the skate as well.

Aside from custom bauer and CCM, All skates have at least the inside most rear front tower rivet a copper one. CCM does the most rear front tower copper x2 and trues do the same thing. As for rear tower rivets all companies only do the most rear two of the rear tower coppers. I've seen alternating but all rear Coppers is new to me, esp in combination of no front tower ones. I'm a size 7 in all retail skates and have been on 263 holders with Bauer and CCM... And now on my trues. The holder line up all the way to the edge of the heel and pretty much as far as you can at the toe without the holders being "oversized"

I wrapped it so many times the clear wrap looked solid and you couldn't see anything under Neath. And when the skate cooled my feet were numb lol that's how tight I did mine. Once the skate breaks in a bit it'll also loosen a touch due to materials softening up a touch and also when the tongues compress a bit. Since dropping the eyelet my skates obviously aren't as tight but the extra flexion makes up for it. So much more agility. Really like it. I do miss the super locked in feeling of having all eyelets done but the pros of the on ice performance with dropping the top eyelet squashes and "psychologicall" pros, lol. As for the my socks experiment, I got a 6 pack of Hanes 80% cotton over the half socks for 16$ from Amazon and my theory was right. The cotton not wicking as much sweat keeps the clarino dryer and I didn't feel any slip near the end of the game from sweet. The clarino liner also felt just a touch moist and no where near as slick as when I use my UA socks. Now what am I going to do with my three pairs UA socks???? Hope this helps ppl that experience the same sweaty ass feet as me. 😬

Seems more like a PHL thing than true. Esp if they didn't send the info to true yet.

Any reason why you went full Coppers in the back? Do you have any coppers in the front? I think having all coppers in the back is overkill. If done properly and the rivet holes are aligned you only should need the two in the back and two in the front towers. What size skates do you generally wear/holder size? I ask this bc it looks like you could go up a size in holders as there looks like a decent sized gap between the front of the holder and the toe. Lastly, the shop should have baked them with the shrink wrap method to begin with. The traditional way isn't sufficient to really eliminate all negative space esp in the areas you're talking about. Using the shrink wrap is unreal and locks your foot in completely. Be aware that as discussed briefly by myself and @SkateWorksPNW that the true heel pocket is a lot deeper than other brands out there so when in a standing or walking, the heel may not feel completely cupped, but once u lean in ur heel should suck into the heel cup and lock in (ie skate stance). I think a lot of ppl mistaken that for a poor heel lock. One way to test actual heel lock is to stand and lunge forward as if in stride and see if u can lift ur heel while holding ur skate down... Also can do this while sitting and leaning one leg forward so the ankle and knee bends.