Sniper9

U don't have to bake the skates. Ideally yes but you don't have to. I've used speed plates on skates that were baked previously with diff insoles inside. If you want to test out different insoles then again ideally you should rebake your skates for the best fit but you don't have to. U can try them on without baking your skates to get a general feel for them and if you like them and want them more fine tunes then bake them.

I still don't know what you mean. No CCM insole should be baked. If you're not using the CCM insole it came with, take it out bake the boot with the speedplates. There are videos online showing how to bake the speedplates with the skates together and also how to bake the sp on its own if the boots are already baked. It you're using the CCM insole u need to remove them while the skates are baking and put them back in prior to putting them on for the mould.

U want to be able to get them out.... To air them out and extend the life of your boots. The first gen also was more rigid and harder to take out bc there's less flex. The sp 2.0 is more flexible You AREN'T supposed to bake the CCM orthomoves.

I know but some ppl don't like the idea of pro stocks. Then again some ppl do I guess 🤷‍♂️

Don't tell that to your customers 😬

If you're set on Bauer just look for pro stocks or previous years models. True and warrior sticks always go on sale /clearance too. More than CCM and Bauer since warrior and true don't restrict retailers (and online) to a minimum mrsp. Some killer deals around for the 2018 true A series and warrior Alpha qx

For those who did their warranty submission online, did you receive an email saying it was approved etc. Or did the product just show up at your door?

Lighter than the 1n... And just 5 grams more than the 2n. Good price for those specs.

Totally know what you mean. Using the CCM or Bauer spacers will resolve this issue. Using the old school circle spacers that come with the ronin visors will cause the temples to flare out bc it doesn't properly fill the gap between the visor and helmet. These are the spacers you should look at getting. A&R Sports Visor Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DJM9DDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XmQgEbCJC6D1R My favourite are the CCM spacers. Absolutely no flaring at all. https://images.app.goo.gl/vWLbs5465FTePuid7 I extra like the CCM kit bc of the t nut style posts that make visor installation much easier not having to dealing with a free spinning nut. Not gonna lie. The main reason I chose the CCM visor over any other brand was bc of their mounting kit and their visor cover 😬 PS my helmets are medium, so technically the larger helmet you have the less the visor should stretch your temples as the gap won't be as big as say a visor on a small helmet.

Well, one of my intermediates just exploded in the shaft where my bottom hand sits. Good thing it's still within the warranty period. Did the claim online. @SkateWorksPNW do you know how quick they are to reply to the online warranty submissions, or as a retailer, is it different for you. Also there was no option for the intermediate size for the a6.0ht on the pull down list. Not sure why. Would be a nice surprise if they sent me an ax9 😬

Never said he did but just replying to the post above about true changing their design

Just tested out the 68 flex for afew mins. What I noticed was wristers were good. Just as good as 75 flex but less effort. Accuracy good too. Slap shots took a tiny adjustment but seemed just as good as the 75. The only diff I noticed with shots was snap shots. Def felt off with snappers. Felt almost like there's too much whip and accuracy wasn't quite there. Hitting the net but when wanting to go bardown the pick didn't get there. Only about 3/4 high off the ground. Overall I like it but the 75 is def more versatile for me. Stickhandling etc seemed more or less the same.

The medium cage doesn't fit,? Sorry might have missed it if it was already mentioned.

Use a thermometer to ensure the peak heat is what you want it at. This way you know it won't really rise above that. Stoves get hotter than the set temp as it will go down to it's setting when it's pre heating. Once it's preheated, just wait another 5-10 to ensure it stabilizes around the temp u want. I wouldn't even bother turning it off while your skates are in there since Bauer and CCM don't even recommend having your skates in there for longer than 3-4 mins. Def not long enough to do damage esp at that temp. Just make sure you dont lace up tighter than 75% and don't stand/walk around until it's fully cool. I generally throw the skates in the freezer or fridge for five mins after.

Don't think they will since the easy option is just not to lace the top eyelet. It will be too much of a hassle to redesign the skate to appease another category of players when the solution is already there (skip the top eyelet). From just looking at pictures, even though the trend right now seems to be players starting to skip the top eyelet, the majority still tie their skates all the way up.

I wonder why they went form a 65 to 68 flex option Also, how did you find the difference between the 65 vs 75? Big diff or only slightly in terms of adjustment?

Just got my two 68 intermediate a6.0 ht sticks. I can confirm they are identical in dimensions to the Sr version. I measured the across section of them at the butt end with the plug out. 👍.

The CCM orthomove insoles are pretty wide and I found it was a PAIN to get them out of the boot once inside. So if they are the yellow CCM orthomove insoles they aren't glued in there just wedged in there...

The facing on the CCM skates actually do wrap over the tongue during the heat moulding. It inevitably does it when you lace them while they are hot. It may not to the extent of the Trues but they still do to w degree. I would imagine the same with Bauer's with their traditional eyelets. Not sure about the lace lock system as it's one strip of hard plastic.

The reduced facing makes it easier to reduce negative space without necessarily doing the wrap technique though. You don't need as much wrap to reduce the negative space as the laces can be used to adjust the fit more so than the facing. With more wrap the laces have less to do with actual adjustment, and also makes it easier to get your foot in and out. But like you said, even without a reduced facing you can eliminate the negative space from heating alone unless it's in the area like the toebox and base of the skate / sole.

If heat moulded properly with the tongue, it should literally mould to your foot and the facing should wrap your foot and accommodate your low volume foot. My trues def seemed like it had more volume than my as1 pencil test wise (tongue pulled out) but the true tongue is quite a bit beefier than most stock retail tongues and once the tongue was in place, it filled up the difference in negative space. Along with using the wrap technique on the top of the skates, I used tensor for the entire forefoot so I had a complete wrap on my entire boot during the heat moulding. If this doesn't work then you should request a remake if the fit does cause you issues. If you're basing it just off the pencil test and not actual performance and fit wise laces up, it's not really a fair comparison bc the fit of Trues is like no other. They were great skates imo, but of course to each their own and they aren't for everyone.

Ya I liked the rigidity of the originals. The arch support area of the 2.0s are noticeably flimsier. Still a better option than anything else out there for me.

Are you using the stock CCM insole? The CCM orthomove insoles are not good imo. I've used speed plates on both my as1 and true skates with no issues. I really like the speedplates. Won't use anything else. I've even stocked up and have three pairs of the original speed plates as I like those better than the 2.0s.

Ya I'm more interested in this as it looks more grippy/sandpapery. I've used and didn't like these. They got cut fairly easily and I didn't like how rubbery they were. Felt like almost as if the puck bounced ever so slightly off the blade.

I think it's just a matter of getting used to the new boots if you swapped the steel and still have the same issue. Skates now adays a quite a bit stiffer than even 3-4 years ago, and the tongue on the 2s is def a totally diff feel. That and/or the diff insoles. Try putting your old insoles in the new skates?