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Sniper9
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Everything posted by Sniper9
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Read my edited post. I edited it while you replied. But like I said. I never had issues with the rivets with step holders from the factory. So really it's not a design flaw. The issue for me arose when I made modifications after the fact and the places where I had my holders swapped didn't use the same rivet/copper pattern that true had. So I assume true is somewhat aware of rivet issues and the need of extra copper rivets for added strength, since they are one of very few companies that utilize four copper rivets per skate.
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A design flaw how? The inability of rivets grabbing properly to the sole of the boot? If this is the case, it isn't a just a true problem but a vh problem as well. I think it's probably just as common with the new ccm boots that are also of a monocoque design. I don't think it's so much a flaw that the rivet system needs updating big time now that soles of boots aren't fabric/leather anymore and energy transfer is much more efficient with the carbon boots. What true, and other companies should do is start using the t nut design Graf has. Now that most new holders have more or less the same hole pattern, it only makes sense to have bolts that make holder replacement and swapping a cinch. A cheaper option would be to line the inside sole of the boot with some kind of material that would allow standard rivets to grip better. Lastly, this issue seems to be resolved simply by alternating steel and Copper rivets. EDIT come to think of it, I never had rivet issues with the stock step holders nor did I with the first set of edge holders I put on. I believe the issues started because when I had my second set of edge holders put on the tech only user copper rivets on the two rear towers and standard rivets on all eight on the front tower. True put copper rivets on the two rear of the front tower, and the first edge holders had the same rivet pattern as Bauer's with the copper on the rear instep of the front tower. When My ls2 holders were put on, they followed the same rivet pattern as when I had the rivet issues where no copper was used on the front tower. I should have told them to put at least two on the front tower. Oh well, I don't see this being an issue that can't be solved simply by adding a couple extra copper rivets in the front tower.
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It's like the hole for that one spot may be stretched a bit or was widened slightly when I swapped the step holder for the tuuk? I only assume this because this one rivet always seated slightly at an angle as if the hole was a bit too big and when the rivet is pressed it would moved slightly and not be compressed flush, causing it to be easily loosened when strained. These are technically the fourth set of holders on these skates. First was the stock step. Two diff edge holders. And now on the ls2. I noticed the issue on the second set of edge after one skate. So it could be the fact so many holders were put on and taken off, or just techs not taking the time when riveting and inspecting their work. I don't plan to change the holders anymore at this point unless due to breakage. Hopefully the copper route does the trick as the other ones seems snug and fine. Also, It really looks like the carbon sole makes it hard for traditional steel rivets to get a good grip.....
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So that pesky rivet came loose again after three skates. Replaced it with copper. Hopefully that's the end of that....
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Just figured out a way to use the Powerfoot without cutting anything. Put adhesive loop Velcro on the Powerfoot that faces up so it actually just hooks into the velcro tab by the toe box... This way u don't need to permanently stick the Powerfoot onto the toe box as well.... 🤙
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If you don't like the logo cover it up yourself. There's many ways you can do it.
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Only problem I can think of by putting the Powerfoot under the Velcro tab is having the hook on the velcro rib on my socks/toes. That's why I would either cut the tab or put the Powerfoot over it.... But that would mean I would be stuck with that setup and the tongue only able to be in the one position.
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Did you figure out how you wanted to install them? Adjusting the tongue all the way up so it doesn't go into the toe box and then having the velcro tab covered by the power foot? That's what I think I'd do if I were to use it. Don't really wanna have up the power foot. But for now having the tongue into the toe box has decreased enough room in the toe box for me to be happy with it.
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Either mail it in to some of the places listed on this thread, or buy new steel online from tydan etc who actually does profiling etc for you before it's shipped out
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Is that like the zherdev pro/frk?
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The Powerfoot for trues is the same as the mako. I wanted to get Powerfoots but I'm not sure what to do with the Velcro tab as well. Not sure if I'm supposed to put the powerfoot over it or under it. I currently have my tongues so they are a but lower and overlap the Velcro tab in the toe box. So there isn't any Velcro sticking out on the bottom. It has decreased some negative space but I want more space taken away at the tip of the toes. It doesn't really bother me but it would definitely perfect the fit. I'm thinking if I do go the Powerfoot route, I'd either move the tongues up and put the Powerfoot over tht tab or cut the Powerfoot to accommodate the tab. Would like to see what others here have done.
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Removing the red insole definitely provided a better fit with superfeet. I just can't use the stock insoles due to it's sponginess. It also almost feels slippery too.
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Yea if ur feet lines up with the. Blue insole then the fit is correct (pretty much biggest toe in line with the end of the insole). Mine brush. When I had the step holders the left actually touched. But like I said it was bc of the pitch. Now they only brush.
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There is a layer of foam inside of the toe caps. You can shave some of it off or remove it. I'm pretty sure it's just a layer or two of the red footbed that's on there for shock absorption and/or for reducing room in the toe box. I'm sure that's one of the things they already suggested though. If you are using the step holders, the pitch makes the toes against the toecap more noticeable. When I went from the step holders to the tuuks it def reduced the amount of contact between my toes and the toe cap due to the change in pitch. If your feet line up fine with the footbed/insole, it isn't going to be a size issue in terms of a boot that's too short.
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Step is 10' radius stock
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My clicking on the edge holders came from the steel having movement up and down and it was hard for me to replicate it with my hands only. I had to actually put weight into it.
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Might be the dreaded edge holder steel click..... U should inspect if the steel is snug. Both laterally and vertically. My guess is no. What steel are you using btw. Also it could be rivets since the tuuks were installed after the fact....
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No but it can be many things.the holder. Steel. Shin guards rubbing. Insoles. Loose rivets. I'd first check to see if the bolt for the steel is tight, assuming you have the step holders.
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Anyone else think the loop Velcro on the tongues need to be a bit better? One of mine is already starting to get pretty fuzzy and not holding on to the hook part as well. Would be nice if the velcro on the tongue went up a bit higher too. I have mine lower so it takes away negative space in the toe area, which leaves only half the tongue latched onto the hook part on the boot. Might replace the loop part on the tongue with the heavy duty stuff that sticks on with an adhesive backing. https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/1369495/VELCRO-Brand-Heavy-Duty-Strips-Set/
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Step black was nice but edge retention in the reg step stainless was also very good. Personally, I wouldn't spend the extra 30-40 on the black, but that's just me.
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I went from a regular 9' to quad zero as well and love it. The thing I noticed was the forward pitch and the addee stability I got when skating backwards. Love it.
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For those who ordered boot only. Did they come pre drilled for the holder you told true you were going to use, not pre drilled at all, or pre drilled for the step holder (which is more or less the same pattern as most holders on the market )
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I wouldn't consider it moving down. The only benefit the edge holder offers is the ease of swapping steel which realistically the majority of rec players don't even utilize. The cast majority use the same steel from day one until they need to replace it due to wear or even lasts for the life of their skates. The extra 3mm height of the edge is negligible esp with all the tall steel out there today. I found with the step steel and edge holders, I even felt way too high up. To each their own though.
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Finally got the setup that I like and everything is dialed in.... Can't explain how much frustration the edge holders caused me... But was able to take these for a spin and just love the ls2 holders. And the peace or mind that the steel is locked in by a bolt again. I ordered the holders purposely avoiding the versions with the red accent. The eBay listing I got it from even had ones with black accents showing, but it was a bulk ad for various sizes so I got whatever they had in my size. Oh well. When I have time I'll use a bit of acetone to remove it or really fine grit sandpaper and wet sand it off and some plastic polish to match the gloss back. My setup is currently as follows; Standard tongue with embroidery Superfeet carbons with the red footbed out Tuuk ls2 holders Ls3 steel profiled to quad zero and 9/16" roh Elite yellow waxed laces Finally a happy camper now. My advice for those who are going to order these, just get the boot and have the holder of your choice that you are used to, and currently use, mounted. Save yourself the time and money of getting holders swapped multiple times like me. I actually didn't mind the step holders but aesthetics got the best of me.
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I didn't have issues with the step holder. And didn't have issues with the black edge since the shop did the same rivet setup as Bauer does and has a copper on the rear front instep. But when I put the white edge on at a diff place, they did all steel rivets on the front and after one skate 3 of them in the right foot came loose. I think it was more to due with the rivets not being properly installed in the first place though. I've since put ls2 holders on at a diff place, and they didn't use copper on the front as well. I'll see how that holds up although I can tell the rivets seem to be installed alot snugger this time around. Like u said though, worst case if need be, I'll have additional coppers added here and there.
