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Sniper9
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Everything posted by Sniper9
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Is that like the zherdev pro/frk?
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The Powerfoot for trues is the same as the mako. I wanted to get Powerfoots but I'm not sure what to do with the Velcro tab as well. Not sure if I'm supposed to put the powerfoot over it or under it. I currently have my tongues so they are a but lower and overlap the Velcro tab in the toe box. So there isn't any Velcro sticking out on the bottom. It has decreased some negative space but I want more space taken away at the tip of the toes. It doesn't really bother me but it would definitely perfect the fit. I'm thinking if I do go the Powerfoot route, I'd either move the tongues up and put the Powerfoot over tht tab or cut the Powerfoot to accommodate the tab. Would like to see what others here have done.
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Removing the red insole definitely provided a better fit with superfeet. I just can't use the stock insoles due to it's sponginess. It also almost feels slippery too.
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Yea if ur feet lines up with the. Blue insole then the fit is correct (pretty much biggest toe in line with the end of the insole). Mine brush. When I had the step holders the left actually touched. But like I said it was bc of the pitch. Now they only brush.
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There is a layer of foam inside of the toe caps. You can shave some of it off or remove it. I'm pretty sure it's just a layer or two of the red footbed that's on there for shock absorption and/or for reducing room in the toe box. I'm sure that's one of the things they already suggested though. If you are using the step holders, the pitch makes the toes against the toecap more noticeable. When I went from the step holders to the tuuks it def reduced the amount of contact between my toes and the toe cap due to the change in pitch. If your feet line up fine with the footbed/insole, it isn't going to be a size issue in terms of a boot that's too short.
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Step is 10' radius stock
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My clicking on the edge holders came from the steel having movement up and down and it was hard for me to replicate it with my hands only. I had to actually put weight into it.
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Might be the dreaded edge holder steel click..... U should inspect if the steel is snug. Both laterally and vertically. My guess is no. What steel are you using btw. Also it could be rivets since the tuuks were installed after the fact....
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No but it can be many things.the holder. Steel. Shin guards rubbing. Insoles. Loose rivets. I'd first check to see if the bolt for the steel is tight, assuming you have the step holders.
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Anyone else think the loop Velcro on the tongues need to be a bit better? One of mine is already starting to get pretty fuzzy and not holding on to the hook part as well. Would be nice if the velcro on the tongue went up a bit higher too. I have mine lower so it takes away negative space in the toe area, which leaves only half the tongue latched onto the hook part on the boot. Might replace the loop part on the tongue with the heavy duty stuff that sticks on with an adhesive backing. https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/1369495/VELCRO-Brand-Heavy-Duty-Strips-Set/
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Step black was nice but edge retention in the reg step stainless was also very good. Personally, I wouldn't spend the extra 30-40 on the black, but that's just me.
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I went from a regular 9' to quad zero as well and love it. The thing I noticed was the forward pitch and the addee stability I got when skating backwards. Love it.
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For those who ordered boot only. Did they come pre drilled for the holder you told true you were going to use, not pre drilled at all, or pre drilled for the step holder (which is more or less the same pattern as most holders on the market )
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I wouldn't consider it moving down. The only benefit the edge holder offers is the ease of swapping steel which realistically the majority of rec players don't even utilize. The cast majority use the same steel from day one until they need to replace it due to wear or even lasts for the life of their skates. The extra 3mm height of the edge is negligible esp with all the tall steel out there today. I found with the step steel and edge holders, I even felt way too high up. To each their own though.
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Finally got the setup that I like and everything is dialed in.... Can't explain how much frustration the edge holders caused me... But was able to take these for a spin and just love the ls2 holders. And the peace or mind that the steel is locked in by a bolt again. I ordered the holders purposely avoiding the versions with the red accent. The eBay listing I got it from even had ones with black accents showing, but it was a bulk ad for various sizes so I got whatever they had in my size. Oh well. When I have time I'll use a bit of acetone to remove it or really fine grit sandpaper and wet sand it off and some plastic polish to match the gloss back. My setup is currently as follows; Standard tongue with embroidery Superfeet carbons with the red footbed out Tuuk ls2 holders Ls3 steel profiled to quad zero and 9/16" roh Elite yellow waxed laces Finally a happy camper now. My advice for those who are going to order these, just get the boot and have the holder of your choice that you are used to, and currently use, mounted. Save yourself the time and money of getting holders swapped multiple times like me. I actually didn't mind the step holders but aesthetics got the best of me.
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I didn't have issues with the step holder. And didn't have issues with the black edge since the shop did the same rivet setup as Bauer does and has a copper on the rear front instep. But when I put the white edge on at a diff place, they did all steel rivets on the front and after one skate 3 of them in the right foot came loose. I think it was more to due with the rivets not being properly installed in the first place though. I've since put ls2 holders on at a diff place, and they didn't use copper on the front as well. I'll see how that holds up although I can tell the rivets seem to be installed alot snugger this time around. Like u said though, worst case if need be, I'll have additional coppers added here and there.
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Any of u guys have rivet issues? I know I've read it here and there in this thread but does the fact that the boot is full carbon make it harder for the rivets to hold and stay tight? I'm only 160 lbs and have never had rivet issues. The most recent holder swap I did, the place only used copper on the rear two. Whereas true did copper on the rear two of the back and front part of the holder, and I know Bauer adds one copper on the front rear instep as well.
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Picked the skates up from my lhs with the ls2s mounted. Swapped the ls2 steel that came with the holders with my old ls3s that we're on my one100. Man the feeling of tightening that bolt... And having the steel nice and snug from front to back. The nightmare is over 🤪😁👌
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Personally, if you're willing to spend the money and willing to put the time into getting used to a totally different feel of skate go for it. If you're happy with what you have and play at a recreational level, I'd personally stick with what works.
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It's funny bc I'm a size 7 and my laces we're a 108 it seemed. Although probably safe to use after a couple hrs after baking, I personally would allow at least 12 hours before using them on the ice after heat molding since these boots are heated for so much longer than other skates, and get to such a pliable state when hot.
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Dropped the skates off at the LHS to have the ls2s swapped in..... need this headache to be over lol
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It's good they are able to work around the patent but it's obvious it is causing some fit issues, whether it's happening a lot or just bad luck for me. Most people wouldn't test the fit of their steel to the extent that I do but once it's in your head.... The ls2 holders have the best fit out of the edge, and step holders I have right now. Even the step holders which have the same bolt system as the ls2 have up and down play when I push the blade into the ground with alot of weight. I can live with that because it's like that for BOTH holders and will feel the same on both feet. Whereas the edge one foot I have to skate a certain way not to toe pick while the right I'm fine. Not sure I'd that makes sense. The play itself isn't a huge deal but the non uniformity is.
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I've contacted them and am awaiting a reply. I've also asked to exchange for steel for ls2 holders if a refund isn't possible.
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Yea I have. It seems to only be an issue with the holder just like with my black edge holders which were brand new. It's not a tydan defect. It's just something for whatever reason is causing issues with the left holders. Not sure if it's the trigger system that causing overall fit issues or not. I just need to give up on these holders or settle with only using Bauer steel potentially. I actually have a feeling the different rear hook on the afternarket steels like step and tydan may have something to do with it. If you compare those with the ls steel u can see there's extra notches on step and tydan
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I know I said the previous was my last post but I wanted to provide an update. Went for my first skate with my new edge and tydan blades and the up down movement on the left skate was very noticeable. To the point it caused me to toe pick here and there. I've also figured out it's a combination of the holders and steels tolerances. I lined up the ls3 steel to the tydans and there's def a shape diff. The tydans front hook is a bit shorter than the ls3 so the hook doesn't sit all the way into the notch for the hook of the holder (likely causing the play since it throws the rest of the proportions off a bit). The funny thing is that it doesn't seem to effect the right holder so it could be a left holder mold tolerance ... But for sure the ls3 steel is molded more specifically for the edge holders. Since I'm 0/2 for left edge holders with this problem on both step and tydan steel, I don't think I'm going to try to warranty and get another left holder since I think the problem will.stil exist. I've decided to just put back my step holders on and cut my losses. Just a shame my tydan steel will.br collecting dust if I can't sell them.
