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Sniper9
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Everything posted by Sniper9
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I know I said the previous was my last post but I wanted to provide an update. Went for my first skate with my new edge and tydan blades and the up down movement on the left skate was very noticeable. To the point it caused me to toe pick here and there. I've also figured out it's a combination of the holders and steels tolerances. I lined up the ls3 steel to the tydans and there's def a shape diff. The tydans front hook is a bit shorter than the ls3 so the hook doesn't sit all the way into the notch for the hook of the holder (likely causing the play since it throws the rest of the proportions off a bit). The funny thing is that it doesn't seem to effect the right holder so it could be a left holder mold tolerance ... But for sure the ls3 steel is molded more specifically for the edge holders. Since I'm 0/2 for left edge holders with this problem on both step and tydan steel, I don't think I'm going to try to warranty and get another left holder since I think the problem will.stil exist. I've decided to just put back my step holders on and cut my losses. Just a shame my tydan steel will.br collecting dust if I can't sell them.
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We will see what happens.... I think things will only improve from here. At least they better or they're not going to be able to stay alive, especially since Bauer and ccm have stepped up their game, and most people don't need a 100% custom skate. For me, I had no issues with Bauers fit and my skates were from 2010. I haven't tried any retail skates since. The only reason I got the true was because of the novelty and curiosity. Happy with them but if Bauer offers the same comfort, my next pair would likely be with Bauer again. The thing about retail skates is you can actually try them on before you buy them, which is also a huge plus. And exchanging them due to warranty would be much easier at the retail level. Not back and forth emails, and then potentially a remake of a skate which could be weeks.
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Regarding laces, you would think they would just send skates with laces no shorter than 96, since it's better too long than too short...
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I wonder what the % is regarding ones that get sent out that shouldn't have. I mean, you only really see the bad ones being posted. Most people that are happy obviously wouldn't make a post and rant about it.
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Just tried the tape method using only Scotch tape as sock tape would have been too thick and it worked like a charm. Let's see how long it will last if I don't remove my blade (which I don't intend to do) Also just for kicks, I swapped the tydan with the ls3 I had laying around and it fit snug no clicks movement, nothing. You could also visibly see less gap between the holder and the ls3 steel where it clicked with the tydans. So either Bauer made their steel thicker to compensate for possible fit issues, or it just so happened the one set of ls3s I have is on the thicker side, OR Bauer steel fits best bc it's their steel for their holder? Oldtrainerguy, do you have issues with lateral move movement with ls steel too, or primarily with other aftermarket brands? I actually wonder now if its not even an issue with the trigger and just the width of the blade channels vs the diff variable widths of steel out there. And because so many people have the edge holder, it makes it seem like it's an edge holder issue? I mean the trigger holds the blade in place but even the bolt of an ls2 holder wouldn't prevent side to side movement of the steel if the channels were just a hair too wide...... And I've also read a post earlier about steel being so tall now that it puts more strain on the holders which were developed for older height blades. Anyways, I think this will be my last post about holders etc. I'm occupying way too much time worrying over something so petty.
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I hope it works out for you and I hope this was a learning point for true. Whether performance is effected, all companies should know that esthetics plays a pretty huge role in quality as well. VH is now backed by a huge company and the QC should be improved greatly. There should be people paid to literally look at a finished skate and inspect them for glue etc.... I had glue residue on the actual silver logo. It wasn't easy to get off but it wasn't hard either. That could have been easily remover before it was sent out. Whether they're unable to keep up with the demands at this point may be another issue they are running into, but pumping out products with the carbon weave like yours will only deter future sales.
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To have to do that on every holder just to see if it's good isnt worth it imo. Products should be reliable enough for defective ones to be a one off and fee and far between, not a coin toss. Also, my clicking is from side to side movement on my new holder. The other ones I had it was from up and down. So go figure. Oh well as long as it doesn't get worse I can live with it. It's at the very back two inches of the blade behind the actual trigger, and it's so minimal, so it's likely not even going to cause any problems.
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I would think the sock tape would do a good job. Anything thicker to reduce the play, I wouldn't even bother as that's just way too much play to try to fix.
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Can u send me a pm regarding what you mean exactly when repairing with the tape. I am picturing the below link, but in case you had a diff method http://blogs.sparxhockey.com/stop-the-clicking-fix-your-loose-steel-with-this-hockey-hack
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Maybe. But I got these holders on before my steel came in. And the frustrating part is that one set of steel may click while the other won't and vice versa. So really, that may help with your first set of steel but not future ones. At the end of the day, it is just too inconsistent, and it gets old returning holder after holder. I play 1-2x a week max during the winter season and 1x a week tops during the summer, so this issue likely won't even be an problem for the life of my steel. My last ls3 steel lasted me a good 4 years and they still have a lot of sharpening in them and they were profiled twice. So even if I get a good 2-3 years out of this holder, I'd be happy, but will be switching out to the ls2 (I have a spare new set), or look at whatever new options are available at that time.
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So basically the holders are hit or miss.... And when it's a miss your Sol.
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You may be right that we, and I may be making a bigger deal than it really is. But it's in my head now and it's going to bug me now that I know it's there or it will eventually happen. If it doesn't get worse over time that's fine, but if it does it means it's something I'll have to constantly monitor which is mentally exhausting. I just like the piece of mind with the ls2 holder. I had them.on my one100 for the 7 years I had the skates. No issues at all. Went through two sets of steel and they are still super snug. With all the diff companies making steel these days, there may also be some play in ls2 holders though, who knows. I've only ever used ls2 and ls3 steel for my ls2 holders. For my edge I've used step, tydan and ls3. Step was the loosest, tydan was pretty snug but some minor clicking, and ls3 was pretty good overall. So it could be the steel tolerance, or the holder, or both. And just that the edge has a more sensitive tolerance because of it's locking mechanism being plastic components vs a nut and bolt that can be adjusted in the ls2.
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Yes it is. What do u mean use the furniture felt. I know there's the tape trick to reduce wiggle room but I am not going to use that until there's a more noticeable play. Right now it's very minimal just enough to make a click. I think even the thickness of Scotch tape would make it really difficult to install the steel. That's how small of a tolerance it takes to be off for the edge holder to cause issues, which is why I'm not a fan at all. The trigger lock holds the blade in place to a certain degree but will never be as firm as s bolt and nut. I think having a very thin layer of rubber or silicon in the holder channels to hug the blade would be a good idea potentially, unless it really absorbs energy transfer of the skaters. This way though, it would adapt to the minor size tolerance differences alot better from holder to holder/steel to steel Aesthetically the edge holders are the best, imo, but reliability wise, not so much. I wish they made a refined ls2 holder that had the updated body lines of the edge. Step/graf holders have the brilliant idea of having the bolt on the outside, but they aren't the best looking.
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What?
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I'm glad someone feels the same way. Most people I talk to say "mines tight and not loose" without ever even looking at their holders, let alone not even knowing what hollow their skates are sharpened at. But I'm also ocd for certain things.... 😋
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I had that setup but the steel didn't fit the holders that great. It was slightly on the looser side and caused some clicking and movement. But looking back now i don't think it's so much of a step issue than the edge holder issue in general. The edge holders aren't that consistent in how steel fits in them. I got brand new holders and tydan steel and these are really snug but still has some minor clicking and play in one of them. Something most people probably won't even notice, and probably something that won't even affect performance, but for me now it's in my head. I've even tried ls3 steel and noticed they don't fit consistently. That is why I'm opting to switch back to ls2 holders once the tydan steel wears down. I might stick with the edge holders if the issue I have doesn't get worse and doesn't seem to affect performance, but there's something about a nut and bolt securing the blade that gives me the peace of mind.
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So I had my black edge holders swapped out and replaced them with new white ones. Ordered a set of tydan steel. The fit is Def snugger but there is still some movement up and down when I put my body weight into the skates. Like stepping down on the toes and heel I can feel it move in a hair if I put my fingers on the steel. I can't actually feel it with my feet, only when my fingers are touching the steel and holders. Not a big deal as I'm sure it actually occurs more often than not in other holders as well. I just scrutinize it more now bc it's in my head. I did notice though that the very last inch or two of the blade at the heel of the left skate has an ever so slight side to side play, which causes it to click lightly when I push it with my fingers. Again none of this is probably even an issue on the ice especially if it doesn't get worse, but it's just annoying, and again bc it's in my head now. So I've decided that I'll keep the setup until the tydans wear out since I spent a decent amount on the steel, and when they wear out, I'll replace the edge holders with new ls2 holders that I just got off eBay for cheap. The labour for the swap will be cheaper than buying new steal for these holders that seem very inconsistent when it comes to how steel fit in them.
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The holes do line up but the lhs that did mine said a couple had to be beveled a bit to ensure a property fit, so short answer is yes. As for the heel cup I left mine on and it was fine. I had edge holders put on twice with the cup by two different lhs without any issues. I'm not a fan of the edge holders though. I've had two sets and both there have been some issues with clicking steel. Although the play is minimal, once I burn through my new set of tydans, I am going to put ls2 holders on them and not have to worry about loose steel.
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That doesn't look good at all, even if it is just cosmetic. Not sure what the deal with True/VH regarding their QC and attention to detail. It's quite disappointing to receive that after waiting weeks and spending 1000+ on them. Hopefully the fit issue will be resolved with baking them properly.
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I found mine felt best with superfeet alone without the red footbeds. It's all personal preference. I personally found the stock footbeds too spongey.
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If you are getting the stock step holder, pay the extra to get blacksteel. The stock step steel is far more superior than the ls4 (which they won't have for the step holder since Bauer doesn't make any steel for the step holder) If you're insistent on the ls4, get tuuks put on, especially if that's what you're used to using. It'll save you the hassle and money of swapping holders in the future. Sorry I re read your post and I'm assuming you meant the ls edge holders when you said ls4. In that case. Get the boot only and get the tuuks added on after. Most shops will do the labour for free or minimal charge if you get the holders from them.
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That is why it is recommended that you use a shoe horn whenever u put on the skates during the heat molding process. I also read that happened to another member on this thread for his goal skates and vh recommended just using loctite gel super glue to glue the liner back on. Hth I also am going through an adjustment period regarding stopping and turning. A bit frustrating and only time will tell if these are better suited for me than my trusty Bauer's.
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Anyone know if swapping holders more than a couple times will compromise the strength of the outsole of the boot? Or are the true skates not really susceptible to this due to it's monocoque boot and not having a separate outsole that's softer like Bauer does.
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I'm interested In Tydan as well. I think it's a good alternative. Lots of nhlers using it now. I want to give it a try if the prices are similar to step but am not willing to pay more. I've had a bad experience with the fit of the step blacksteel in my edge holders. The clicked from day one and never fit snug. Three my ls3 in there and it was snug with no clicks. At the end of the day subconsciously I feel the Bauer steels, even if inferior in quality, will always fit better than any other brands.
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Found it..
