Sniper9

Lizard skin fan here. I love the way the lizard skin feels. Adds some cushion and just the right amount of tack. My grip is about 6 inches so I can't get away with splitting the grip on half and end up wasting quite a bit.. I might make them shorter to get two sticks out of one as they are a bit pricey. Durability is decent but like others I also notice the edge part of the very top of the butt end starts to wear more.

I'm guessing retailers will let consumers try them on baked first before they buy since that's really the only way to experience them.

I have the qredge non pro. But from what I can tell with what I've read and also with their gloves, the pro version offers a touch more roomier fit.

Ya that's one thing I don't like about the retails. Well the only thing I don't like. It's nice that it's going to be quite a bit cheaper than customs and most people won't need a fully custom true boot since they are so thermoformable.

I'll have to confirm that the CCM skates are very very mouldable. In terms of pliability pretty much the same as true, and takes less heat / time when using a heat gun. The Bauer's still are no where near thermaformability vs the two mentioned.

Warrior feels stiffer than my trues. CCM seems about the same as my true if not just a touch stiffer. I actually like how true feels softer vs other brands as I don't have to drop down to an intermediate flex and the fact they don't offer a 70 Sr. Bauer comes in 77 so it's not really a fair comparison. Kind of sucks it's not standardized across companies, but I realize kick point etc affects how whippy or stuff a stick feels vs how it plays. Oh Sher wood. Def is stiffer. 75 is def more like an 80-85

I use a p28 so everything except sauces are toe lol.

For me low wristers have nothing to do with the type of curve. Think of it as you're passing it but harder. Which brings me to my next question, are you able to make hot passes without it being a foot off the ice? Lol. I play with some who for the life of him can't pass a puck with some kick behind it without it being at least a few inches off the ice. He literally shoots it. Your follow through will definitely bc shorter for low shots. Because the follow through of your blade should be where you're aiming. It's probably already been covered by the above replies but I'm too lazy to read all of it right now. I've never had to really thinking about how I keep my low shots low, but to me I don't think the mechanics are much different than making a really hard pass.

If I was as into roller as ice I would get true inlines. But I haven't played inline hockey in about 8 years. I'm looking to get back into it next summer. If roller is your primary type of hockey you play I say go for it. If not I'd try to find some used or pro return ones. Or even wait for their retail version ice skates to come out and slap some online chassis on them.

Got some Bauer x2.9 roller but had to retune them bc of volume issues. Pencil test passed but bc there was not enough wrap the laces on the forefoot were too much pressure on the tendon on both my feet. I had them on inside my house for not even an HR and my left foot was in pain for two days. First time I've worn a vapor skate though. Previously I've had supreme, as1, and currently true. It's a shame Bauer only offers vapor for inlines otherwise it's mission which is only an e width for models other than the top two. I'm going to prob get a used set or pro stick return of Trues and have the marsblade rs1 holder mounted.

Same. Me and a buddy ordered the chassis and wheels combo. Great price. Haven't been on roller blades in years!

Shave the blade. Also try heating up the shaft only so the blade hosel doesn't expand from the heat, and only the shaft. Just use enough heat to melt the glue on the hosel but don't heat it to the point that it may cause the wood to expand.

Possibly. Mine have been baked quite a few times too. I'm also only 160-165 lbs

I haven't broken one speed plate and I use the 1.0. I think they fixed the brittle issue after they rolled them out and realized there was a defect.

Wrong skates or pronation issue. When you have pronation issues your arch will collapse in the skates when you hear weight on that foot.. it'll throw that Skate off and make it feel "sloppy" regardless how good the heel lock is. One way to test it is by sitting with your skates on Tied up. Lean forward on one skate so the knee bends and heel pushed back into the heel pocket of the skates. Hole the skate down and try to lift your heel up. If you have little to no heel lift the lock is fine. Now walk around, if you get heel slip then it might be pronation issue. Or something else going on with biomechanics. Mind you, walking in skates and skating are completely different positions. So use the walking guideline as just a guideline.

U need a heat gun to spot heat it. But be careful. Go on YouTube and look up mlx skates and you'll find a few modification videos for the arch and I think heel as well. You'll get s good idea on how to spot heat the skates by looking at the mlx videos.

The increased heel pocket is to allow more forward bend. The further the heel sits in the pocket the more forward you are in terms of knee bend. I have a feeling it has to do with how you are scanned. If you are scanned with TOO much forward flex , then technically the heel pocket could be created too deep. I think this is where training their fitters/scanners properly is key and doesn't seem like true is really doing this. If u think about it if they create a last from a scan where the player is too flexed forward, Itll create a boot that doesn't resemble a players proper stance. Conversely if they create a boot off a scan where the player isn't flexed far enough it'll create a boot that's restrictive in the forward flex position and too neutral, causing a heel pocket that's too shallow and potentially restriction forward flex. When I first transitioned to from my old Bauer supreme one100s to the Trues it took me some adjustment in terms of how they fit. The Bauer's were pretty locked. The trues were more comfortable and I felt they performed better but I did feel like they were more roomier. Not sure if it's bc of the padding being thicker. But as the padding did pack slightly, it def felt more locked in. I do recommend a second bake after about a month or two of skating though after the padding settles. Either way if you aren't happy and believe there is a fit issue outside what I described, then you should bring it up, but if you are having a skate remade you should def have your feet rescanned to eliminate that aspect as being the problem. When you do your knee bend you really need to make sure your knees are centred over your feet and not leaning onward causing probation/flat foot, or to the outside causing supination / higher arch. Lastly your knees should not go past your toes during the bend.

I find The Bauer cut resistant socks actually the best in terms of grip so ya there's definitely something wrong. Maybe you should play with the tongue to see if it'll fix the toe box issue. All the toe boxes are the same as those aren't custom but they merely just go over the carbo. That is made for your foot... I mentioned before the for is quite different than other brands like Bauer any CCM and part of it is the way the heel fits. There's def more room in the Trues but it shouldn't be sloppy while skating. Did they rescan your foot for the remake?

Totally sucks. But did you try moving the tongue lower to remove more toebox space? For me that removed s significant amount of space but that only takes away the height not width. I found the clarino liner pretty slippery when wet. If you're using a really thin dri fit type sock that adds to the problem. When. I use regular Hanes cotton socks the trip is much better and slipping is pretty much non existent.

Probably double the price too lol. I have three gen 1 SPs and one gen 2 stocked up. Haven't had any issues with cracking with the Gen 1s so far so they should last me a little while

Measuring sticks against the wall isn't accurate as some blade patterns are shorter/longer than others. Measure from the actual base of the blade where it contacts the ice I use a p28 and I measure it from the top to the base in the exact same spot on ally sticks and when standing up against the wall they differ slightly in height between brands.

You shouldn't need stable socks for a custom skate otherwise they weren't made properly for you. It's been discussed in this thread regarding how the true skates may feel a bit more roomier in the heel as the pocket is deeper to allow a deeper knee bend. The clamp will only help is the heel pocket is too wide. Did u heat mould using the stretch wrap technique? If not, I would do that first as that method really eliminates every ounce of negative space.

I used them when they first started out and was the most durable sticks I've ever used. But it's been a long time and many models since their original Savoy special, which they still sell. Imo though the prices have gone up and although still sub 300 Canadian, I rather get last year model of say warrior or true at s large discount. Mind you my pattern is a p28 and 65-70 flex so it's not hard to come by retail wise. When I did use base I went with the hossa pro which was a very fun blade.

+1 speedplates are the best insoles imo. Really locks the fit that much more. I even use them in my trues. And I can't imagine using anything else for retail skates.

I think it was s mistake to have made the holder taller and steel shorter just to save weight. Having steel that short really kills the potential to have them profiled more than once and really decreases the lifespan. Ya, they give you two hit that just means profiling two sets. If I'm gonna order another pair of Trues, I'd stick with the CCM holders anyways.