Sniper9

You should just do the arch cutout technique on the red insole on the left skate rather than removing it completely. Might be just me but I'd be too ocd to know one skate had less volume than the other lol. The arch support shouldn't really change if u completely take the red insole out bc it adds volume to the entire sole of the skate not just the arch.

Don't think it's any diff than putting your helmet in a helmet bag, without having to remove the visor. I had the Bauer hdo clip visors and never really took it off other than switching visors. I've kept my helmet with visor attached in a helmet bag for as long as I rmbr and never had issues.

It's normal for edge holders to have movement, but it's not normal 🙃. I've never had any movement in my ls2 holders or my SB 4.0. My experience with Edge was a nightmare I'll never go through again.

I had the same issue even with the other type of spacers that angle like that. The good thing about those is that it doesn't cause your visor to pull the sides of the helmet out like it does with the old school circle washers. The bad thing is, well, what you posted. By using wasters between the screw and visor, it helped it sit more flush. But you'll need screws long enough to work with additional washers.

It's interesting that they call it the "thin" tongue yet to me they are actually quite thick. Maybe not as thick as the felt bc of the contour channel down the middle, but they aren't by any means "thin" like the CCM thin option on their total customs.

When I directly emailed true about baking they said the skates can be baked up to something like 9-10 times. Forgot the exact number but it was definitely way up there towards 10. I've already baked my current ones 3 times.

You can get just the regular non t guard which I like. It's comfy and a decent tongue. But yes the low profile one is an option as well but it's not as low profile as I expected when I saw it in store.

Ya. I'm always surprised when I see ig posts of ppl getting them baked and the method isn't used. Not sure if it's an issue with true not updating all their fitters or the fitters are just lazy. When I got my skates the guy that deals with all the true orders wasn't there and the person who baked my skates threw them in there for only a few mins like you would for Bauer or CCM. They were barely even warm. I didn't say anything bc I knew I would rebake them myself anyways bc I'm pretty particular with how they are done and I knew even with the actual true guy there , that they don't use the stretch wrap method.

I used a gas oven. Mine is gas and I used the convection option. No issues at all. Preheat to 200 and made sure it didn't go over checking every CPL mins. One skate at a time. I baked each skate 5-6 mins on one side and flipped it. Near the 5 min mark on the second side I checked to see how soft they were and gauged how much extra time I'd leave them in for after that. Amazon also has the stretch wrap for cheap and check your local dollar store too. Id only use a heat gun to spot heat a very specific area like maybe the inner ankle only, not the entire ankle area on both sides and the cuff

Forgot you didn't do the stretch wrap method. Totally do this. It'll ensure every bit of neg space around the ankle etc is eliminated. Sounds like they didn't even do the method on the old true vids which is tie up all the way to 70% and use your hands to really work in the boots so it forms your foot all over. The stretch wrap method was night and day for me even vs the above method. The heel slippage feeling could also be due to the heel pocket being deeper on the Trues vs other brands. I explained this in previous posts, but if you've rebaked with the stretch wrap method etc and still believe or feel some heel gap, give it a couple months. As @z1ggy realized recently, a lot had to do with the fact the trues just feel a lot diff than CCM or Bauer, where your heel is basically jammed into the heel pocket even when you're not in the skating stance. With trues, they are made to cup ur heel as u bend forward, therefore causing a bit more gap when you're walking or standing up straight. Hope that makes sense. When I dropped the top eyelet, it allowed more knee bend and ankle flexion and I felt the heel space pretty much eliminate vs when I was tying up all the way to the top. Having more flexion allowed my heel to fully fit into the pocket as well. I have very skinny ankles and bc of the wrap on the Trues, tying my them all the way to the top really inhibited forward flexion. And again, the fact that the lining packs in a bit also def helps make the skate fit better and less squishy. When my trues were brand new they almost felt "too" comfortable and squishy. After about ten skates they should pack a bit and feel more secure. That's what I noticed at least. So in a nutshell, give it about a mth and see how things are. But def should rebake with the stretch wrap method as soon as you can. PS. I still use waxed laces and although I don't crank on my laces I do still give them a small tug especially on the 3 eyelet from the top, and I tie my right skate a bit tighter than my left but thats due to my pronation on my right foot.

You should always wear the same socks, or thinner than what u normally do. I actually found with the red footbed removed it felt better overall and better heel lock. You never should have to "crank" on ur skates. Skate on it for a few more ice times then if you think you need to, rebake them with your normal socks and without the red insole (if you concluded it fits better without". Also once the liner packs In a bit, it'll also feel more locked in and less spongey.

I'd do this over heating the eyelets. Personally, I don't like the idea if messing with the great wrap by flaring the eyelets. Alternatively you can also get even longer laces so there's enough slack created without having them out of that many eyelets. I'm one of the few that only need the top eyelet undone.

Ya it actually does feel very similar to my hanwag boots In that they are very supportive and comfortable. Stiffer obviously but good comparison.

The instructions online are for conventional skates that only need to be heated 3-5 mins tops. I guarantee you if u left true skates in the oven with the oven off for 10+ mins, it won't heat up enough. But hey it's your call.

For trues turning the oven off will allow it to cool down too much. The sheet that came with the skates should tell you how to bake at home. I think it was 15+ mins at home. I have a convection gas stove and I baked mine for 6 ish mins at 200, then flipped them and let it bake for another 5-6 at 200. This allowed it to be the perfectly malleable. Just make sure you keep an eye on the thermometer. I did one skate at a time to be sure I wasn't rushing and took my time using a shoe horn etc. I allowed it to fully cool for 15 mins per skate before taking them off then straight into the freezer for another five mins. I really wrapped the crap out of the skates with the shrink wrap, probably excessively lol. But I figured I wanted it to be as tight as possible. I'm really happy with the outcome. I also made sure I wrapped them the same way on both skates. In my case working the wrap from medial side of the skate up towards the laces then around down the outside of the skate.

Willie Mitchell used blade tape 😂. I personally enjoy and prefer traditional hockey tape for the blade. I don't like having the top and especially bottom of the blade exposed. Might be something that roller hockey players would be really interested in though.

Don't see it being much different than bladetape and other brands that have done this

Can you dm me the shop so at least I'm aware?

Maybe you're over thinking it and it's just what the player grew up using mainly and stuck with it. Or what they were forced to use at the jr level etc. Thr super low kick technology/idea is fairly new. Part of it is probably a marketing gimmick. At the retail level. Pros get to choose exactly what they want and not care about whether it's called a drop kick taper or sabre taper or xe taper etc.

I never had issues wirh backhand witj the p28. Didn't have to adjust at all. The forehand sauces I notice aren't as second nature with this pattern though. Only pattern I really had issues wirj the backhand is the hossa pro.

Thr rough edges on thr vents is what i noticed as well in the first leaks from summer. I thought maybe it was bc they were just the test helmets but I guess it's not. Yet another attention to detail thing true doesn't seem to care about.

Glad to hear.

It could be the area where it stops being the hard carbon like the heel and meets the thermoformable plastic. But still should be able to fix the issue if done right.

You need to heat gun the area. It's a waste to rebake the whole skate just for that one area. I've never had issues where I couldn't specifically alter a certain area of the skate with a heat gun and keep it that way. And ur description of it feeling like "nails" doesn't make sense at all. I've owned two pairs of Trues. Also worst case they will probably remake the skate for u no charge but you need to show you've gone to your pro shop and they've tried to do everything to remedy.

If u use a heat gun to that area there is no way that area will "cave" back in. You said it's punched in like it's supposed to be but that doesn't make sense. If it's supposed to be like that it shouldn't be causing you any issues. Is that area or your foot susceptible to being more sensitive? Have you tried the tissue technique with that area along with a heat gun? Sorry, but I also found your post a bit confusing regarding especially with the Christmas card ending... 🤷🏻‍♂️