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Emerald
Chocolate
Marble
Sniper9
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Content Count
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Everything posted by Sniper9
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You should always wear the same socks, or thinner than what u normally do. I actually found with the red footbed removed it felt better overall and better heel lock. You never should have to "crank" on ur skates. Skate on it for a few more ice times then if you think you need to, rebake them with your normal socks and without the red insole (if you concluded it fits better without". Also once the liner packs In a bit, it'll also feel more locked in and less spongey.
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I'd do this over heating the eyelets. Personally, I don't like the idea if messing with the great wrap by flaring the eyelets. Alternatively you can also get even longer laces so there's enough slack created without having them out of that many eyelets. I'm one of the few that only need the top eyelet undone.
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Ya it actually does feel very similar to my hanwag boots In that they are very supportive and comfortable. Stiffer obviously but good comparison.
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The instructions online are for conventional skates that only need to be heated 3-5 mins tops. I guarantee you if u left true skates in the oven with the oven off for 10+ mins, it won't heat up enough. But hey it's your call.
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For trues turning the oven off will allow it to cool down too much. The sheet that came with the skates should tell you how to bake at home. I think it was 15+ mins at home. I have a convection gas stove and I baked mine for 6 ish mins at 200, then flipped them and let it bake for another 5-6 at 200. This allowed it to be the perfectly malleable. Just make sure you keep an eye on the thermometer. I did one skate at a time to be sure I wasn't rushing and took my time using a shoe horn etc. I allowed it to fully cool for 15 mins per skate before taking them off then straight into the freezer for another five mins. I really wrapped the crap out of the skates with the shrink wrap, probably excessively lol. But I figured I wanted it to be as tight as possible. I'm really happy with the outcome. I also made sure I wrapped them the same way on both skates. In my case working the wrap from medial side of the skate up towards the laces then around down the outside of the skate.
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Willie Mitchell used blade tape 😂. I personally enjoy and prefer traditional hockey tape for the blade. I don't like having the top and especially bottom of the blade exposed. Might be something that roller hockey players would be really interested in though.
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Don't see it being much different than bladetape and other brands that have done this
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Maybe you're over thinking it and it's just what the player grew up using mainly and stuck with it. Or what they were forced to use at the jr level etc. Thr super low kick technology/idea is fairly new. Part of it is probably a marketing gimmick. At the retail level. Pros get to choose exactly what they want and not care about whether it's called a drop kick taper or sabre taper or xe taper etc.
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Thr rough edges on thr vents is what i noticed as well in the first leaks from summer. I thought maybe it was bc they were just the test helmets but I guess it's not. Yet another attention to detail thing true doesn't seem to care about.
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Glad to hear.
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It could be the area where it stops being the hard carbon like the heel and meets the thermoformable plastic. But still should be able to fix the issue if done right.
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You need to heat gun the area. It's a waste to rebake the whole skate just for that one area. I've never had issues where I couldn't specifically alter a certain area of the skate with a heat gun and keep it that way. And ur description of it feeling like "nails" doesn't make sense at all. I've owned two pairs of Trues. Also worst case they will probably remake the skate for u no charge but you need to show you've gone to your pro shop and they've tried to do everything to remedy.
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If u use a heat gun to that area there is no way that area will "cave" back in. You said it's punched in like it's supposed to be but that doesn't make sense. If it's supposed to be like that it shouldn't be causing you any issues. Is that area or your foot susceptible to being more sensitive? Have you tried the tissue technique with that area along with a heat gun? Sorry, but I also found your post a bit confusing regarding especially with the Christmas card ending... 🤷🏻♂️
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Or just a plastic polish that would remove just enough of the painted logo.
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Thanks. I was just curious as to whether it changed the volume of the skate if the tongues were thinner, which would potentially require a remould
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Anyone swap their old to guess for the new ones? Just wondering if you had to re hear mould the skates along with the new tongue. I really don't want to do this as the skates are pretty dialed in. I noticed the new tongues are almost if not just as thick as the felt ones so it may not be necessary, and just get away with heating the tongues alone.
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The hex of the SB bolt prob fits nicely against the tendon guard too as it has a hex cutout.
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Then I guess you'll always wonder 🙃
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I def notice a diff in lag when using a high to mid kick stick like the 1s vs my 1n and also qrls etc. Does it actually make a diff in terms of velocity and results who knows. But i def feel the lag in the shaft when loading the 1s. In general I find I do have a better slapshot with mid kick sticks though. Overall I like the feel better of variable and low kick sticks and that's really all that matters. What feels good to u.
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They generally are but Amazon has them for pretty cheap rn. I just order a set for 24 cdn on Amazon Canada. Where did u see them for 10? You can technically spot mould the arches. I did that before to both flatten and increase the arch and it worked well with a hear gun. Not sure if it's worth the time etc for some ppl though.
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Well I'd argue air drying isn't working well bc it's still causing damage. Also there are also skate dryers you can shove into your skates that help dry the skates up faster. Something like this Or even generic dehumidifier packs.
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Have u tried using the rocket dryer or literally a blow dryer to dry out the skates asap rather than air dry? I agree the Trues really soak up the sweat, esp with how the inside sole of the boot has a layer of saran wrap and what appears to be masking tape. It is odd that your eyelets are rusting over that quick as they are easily dried by wiping them down.
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I think more ppl have had issues with their injected eyelets then standard ones. At the end of the day wear issues occur in some and not in others in diff areas of skates throughout all brands. True may just not be for you in terms of what you want out of a skate durability wise. Also, who knows whether the current line if Bauer's last as long as ur mx3s
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No one can really answer this because your arch pain can be caused by various things. I saw the new tongue in person today for the first time and it's actually quite beefy. I expected it to bee really thin but it's not.
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This. It has nothing to do with time frame but total hours. I am on the ice 1-2 times a week and about 1.5-2 hrs a session and my skates show no real issues after a year. Just surface scratches and scuffs and just some minor surface rust on some of the rivet prongs. Not even all just the ones more prone to exposure to sweat and water. You should rebake them after the foam compacted. I've rebaked my skates three times in the first four mths. The first bake was meh. The last bake really dialed them in bc it took into account the foam being a bit more compact etc. You shouldn't have to crank on the laces with these skates at all.
