Custom Skates / Ice to Inline Conversion

[krisdrum 233]

19 minutes ago, DRR said:

Hey guys! Visiting you from the ice hockey side. I have a couple of conversion questions I hope you'll be able to answer, or at least point me in the right direction.

Looking at a pair of skates for roller hockey. Not so much games, but more for training purposes. So I don't need the priciest/lightest/nicest setup, but rather looking for a good pair of skates to mess around with.

Have an old pair of Vapor 10 ice skates, which could be a good conversion candidate. The holder on one is cracked but the boots are in otherwise decent shape, and are still fairly stiff. (Prefer a stiffer boot) I'd have to buy a 

Or the other option is, just go and buy a new pair of intermediate-level Bauer Vapor roller skates. 

So the questions -

1) How much does a conversion typically cost (labor cost - assuming I am providing the holders)

2) I have a Pure Hockey locally, they'd typically do this right? Or is there somewhere recommended that I could send the skates and holders, and have them do the conversion for me?

3) Still leaning towards the conversion vs buying a pair of Vapor x400, is there a good reason why I should definitely consider the X400 instead of converting?

4) This is probably going to be a question without a right answer, but could someone point me towards some good options for holders (frames?) for this purpose? 

Many thanks for any help you can lend me.

 

I'm in the same boat, have no intent of playing competitive roller hockey at this point.  Just need more stick/puck/skating time.

I'm in the midst of a conversion currently.  Been doing it on and off for the last week or so.  The process has been really easy and straight forward.

I watched a few YouTube videos to get a sense of the process.

Bought a used pair of inlines off ebay that had the right sized chassis and wheels, boots didn't fit, so separated them and discarded.  Chassis is an older HiLo with some decent indoor wheels.

Removed the holders from an old pair of beat up skates I had acquired that I knew fit pretty well.

Bought all the screws and nuts to re-assemble.  Marked up the boot sole, drilled the holes and I'm in the process of assembly.

I've invested maybe $70 and my time to get to this point.  Should have them done this week.

[DRR 112]

4 hours ago, krisdrum said:

I'm in the same boat, have no intent of playing competitive roller hockey at this point.  Just need more stick/puck/skating time.

I'm in the midst of a conversion currently.  Been doing it on and off for the last week or so.  The process has been really easy and straight forward.

I watched a few YouTube videos to get a sense of the process.

Bought a used pair of inlines off ebay that had the right sized chassis and wheels, boots didn't fit, so separated them and discarded.  Chassis is an older HiLo with some decent indoor wheels.

Removed the holders from an old pair of beat up skates I had acquired that I knew fit pretty well.

Bought all the screws and nuts to re-assemble.  Marked up the boot sole, drilled the holes and I'm in the process of assembly.

I've invested maybe $70 and my time to get to this point.  Should have them done this week.

Is there a youtube video in particular that you've been using as a guide?  I always assumed I needed a riveting press or other specialized tools to do it. 

Keep us updated on your progress!

[krisdrum 233]

Sure.  Found this one the most complete and helpful.  But there are a few others that were useful or had some unique tips.  Basically replacing rivets with t-nuts and bolts. 

 

[krisdrum 233]

Update: Got the left skate most of the way assembled last night while watching the Pens/Caps game.  Need to re-drill 1 hole up in the toe and the plastic I cut to shim my heel didn't work out the way I thought, so I need to re-assess and figure out another solution.  Might just finish assembly without the shim for now and alter down the line if needed.  Should have the pair complete by tonight.  Realized after a few bolts in the toe area that I was trying to assemble with too short a bolt, so I adjusted and the rest went much easier and have gone back and switched the shorter ones out.  I'm doing a dry assembly at the moment to double check fit.  Will go back and add threadlock once I have everything square.

Updation Nation: Finished them up last night.  Salvaged some thinner shim material from the garage, re-made my shims based on the ones I had already made.  I may need to increase the size down the road, but at least I have a starting point to work from.  Found a Torx 15 screw driver too, which made assembly alot easier and faster.  I was using one of those stupid "flip out" kits the night before and it was a PIA.  Only had to re-drill 2 holes.  1 per skate to get proper hole alignment.  Not too bad.  Assembled dry then backed the screws out and dropped thread lock into the T-nuts from above.  Everything seems solid.  Laced them up quickly last night and did a lap of the dining room table.  Hope to give them a real go on some Ice Court this weekend. 

Edited May 5, 2017 by krisdrum

[datsvechkin 38]

 

Edited July 12, 2017 by datsvechkin

[jmiro 55]

Son's new pair first conversion using t nuts.  The toes were a pia. Other things i learned:  not a fan of slotted screws, but they work great to pull the t huts into the foot bed.  Make sure you buy at least one long screw to get the t nuts started. Turned out well.  Now he has the same boot for ice as he does for inline.

[SCATMAN 33]

Can anyone tell me if I need to drill any new holes if I swap between chassis? (or do the holes line up across the different brands?) 

I have some Hi-Lo's but looking to try out Hummers/Alkali/CCM chassis but want to know if I'll keep the option to swap back if I don't like them. Boot is Vapor 1X 8.5EE.

[adams2001 54]

 

My NXGs when I first got them converted.

[Paddywhackery 0]

Rike Bandit Pro conversion. Question about T-NUTS & Bolt set up:

Posting from Ireland.  Recently managed to get my hands on some 1999 Easton Z Air and same circa Kevlar 952 Tacks. Deciding which ones to convert to inline. Hopefully someone can advise

- I have noticed the T-NUTS and bolts typically in use for conversions in the US (Imperial) 6/32. Have searched the net but for the life of me cant find out how to convert into UK(metric size). The local hardware store is a bit clueless also. Any clarification / advice appreciated.

Will post pics when I finish. Managed to source some Old school Rike Bandit pro trucks, brand new. So its a toss up between mounting them , Easton Konkis or even older Bauer 6000s. Opinions appreciated. Cheers

[gosinger 122]

With regards to euro/metric sizes: I always use M4 hardware, worked out fine for me. Just get a few different lengths of stainless screws for the different areas of the boot, a few washers and some LocTite or similar.

So get M4 T-Nuts (about 50% more than you actually need, I always mess up 1-2) and M4 stainless screws (plenty of 10mm, few 12mm/14mm/16mm, at least one 20mm+ in order to easily pull in the T-nuts tight).

Sidenote: I just had added a heel-lift to my 1X for ice, and didn't even need to extend the holes, the M4 T-nuts were pulled right into the existing ones.

[Paddywhackery 0]

2 hours ago, gosinger said:

With regards to euro/metric sizes: I always use M4 hardware, worked out fine for me. Just get a few different lengths of stainless screws for the different areas of the boot, a few washers and some LocTite or similar.

So get M4 T-Nuts (about 50% more than you actually need, I always mess up 1-2) and M4 stainless screws (plenty of 10mm, few 12mm/14mm/16mm, at least one 20mm+ in order to easily pull in the T-nuts tight).

Sidenote: I just had added a heel-lift to my 1X for ice, and didn't even need to extend the holes, the M4 T-nuts were pulled right into the existing ones.

Much appreciated!  The part that I'm worried about it the drilling but, I'm sure if I am meticulous with the measurements there shouldn't be a problem.

With the M4s what size drill bit did you use? 3.5mm/3.8mm or the full 4mm because the t nuts are flush in the hole? Or, is 4mm the internal measurement of the t nut (so, eg 4.1mm would be the drill bit if you want the hole flush? (bit lazy of me to ask instead of just doing the sums lol.)

I'm not sure what you meant on the side note, I didn't even know you could fit a heel lift into hockey boots! Is that to achieve a more aggressive stance or something?

I think I'm gonna go with allen bolts rather than screws to get consistent torque when fitting but yeah using a 12mm and getting good purchase on the t nuts/ foot bed is a great tip! 100% gonna use.

In my mind, doing your own conversions is one of these mythical skills people are in awe of. A bit like re spoke-ing/building a bike wheel. People think its difficult and are put off. But yet when you do it, its both a pleasure and surprisingly easy.. Says the guy who hasn't attempted it yet! :D

Thanks again 

Edited August 16, 2017 by Paddywhackery
omission/question

[gosinger 122]

With M4 T-Nuts the inner diameter is 4mm, so you will use a 4.5mm drill to do the new holes (depending on the outer diameter of your T-Nut and the "stretchability" of your outsole). I so far had the best experience with slotted stainless screws and have not had a problem yet, but hex-bolts should work out nicely if you can get them. I always place a washer between holder/chassis and the screw as-well for good measure.

 

With the heel lift: yes, you fit them between holder and the heel of the skate to get a more aggressive forward-pitched stance. 

 

Definitly, a conversion is a very easy but rewarding thing, and once you've gotten over the "mystical fear of touching something as complicated as a modern skate" you'll do it without a second thought.

[caseyjones 26]

Im having issues with a new conversion.  I want to convert a pair of my Graf's with an aluminum chassis.  I have the marsblade on a different pair and i love skating on them i just feel that it has zapped a considerable amount of my speed in league play and it's really hindering my game. 

Here's my issue.  I wear a size 6.5/7 skate and i want to get my roller hockey wheelbase as close as possible to my ice skates.  I have a ton of 80/72 chassis which are fine, but the problem is with the graf boot I cant position the frames back far enough towards the heel.  The outsole of the skate is too narrow and the rivet holes and the frame winds up hanging over the sides of the heel so there's nothing to drill into.  I'm wondering if this is a graf thing or a new skate thing.  I have older Bauer supreme's and Vapors that seem positioned fine, but being that the Graf skate cannot accommodate moving the frames more towards the heel i get the front wheel sticking out way too far and I cant skate like that.  I wanted to have the same skates for roller and ice, but if i have to look into a different boot ( I was thinking either Mako's or an older graf boot with the white plastic outsoles) I will.  The other option I am contemplating is buying a jr. size chassis 76/68.  I'm just not sure if that will fix the issue or not. 

[Decline 3]

Paid $40 for mine to be riveted. The guy lined up a hole in the heel and one in the front and drilled the rest. 

9.5 CCM ribcor 66k boot and large mission magnesium vanguard hi/lo

 

Edited September 30, 2017 by Decline
Add image

[jmiro 55]

What are you guys using for shims........  i am doing bauer supreme 170s with a hummer 2 chasis (all 80s is to long).  I need more of a pitch.  I currently run alkali shift and nexus s8000 ice.  The alkali kill my feet aftwr two hours and the computer machine told me to try supremes.  I need some help here.

 

[althoma1 574]

If the computer told you to try Supremes then you could just move to Mission skates. The Mission skates are built using the Supreme last. The Mission skates also use a Hi Lo chassis though; so if you prefer the Hummer 2 or another chassis then of course converting would make sense. I'll let others answer the shim question as I haven't used them myself. 

Edited October 1, 2017 by althoma1

[wildcats2203 0]

I'm looking to convert a pair of Bauer Vapor X 5.0 size 8.5. Saw a pair of Easton Konki 250 frames on Ebay, size small. Is anyone familiar with sizing on these? Will Pure Hockey do conversions?

[nils 0]

My first conversion in 2016
Bauer Vapor XX with Hi Low Chassi in size 11,5ee-slightly too small

My second rebuild 2017
Bauer Vapor APX2 with Hi Low Chassi in size 12ee- Fits perfectly, but is now for sale.

My third rebuild 2018
CCM 50k with Hi Low Chassi in size 12ee- fits perfectly, my first CCM skate.

Edited January 17, 2018 by nils

[nils 0]

9 minutes ago, nils said:

My first conversion in 2016
Bauer Vapor XX with Hi Low Chassi in size 11,5ee-slightly too small

My second rebuild 2017
Bauer Vapor APX2 with Hi Low Chassi in size 12ee- Fits perfectly, but is now for sale.

My third rebuild 2018
CCM 50k with Hi Low Chassi in size 12ee- fits perfectly, my first CCM skate.

don't know why I can't post photos here?! ... does anyone have instructions?

[althoma1 574]

1 hour ago, nils said:

don't know why I can't post photos here?! ... does anyone have instructions?

You can't post them directly. Use an external hosting site and then post the URLs. tinypic.com is one example of a free image hosting site. There are plenty of others.

[IPv6Freely 2092]

3 hours ago, nils said:

don't know why I can't post photos here?! ... does anyone have instructions?

Go to imgur.com and upload, then paste link here. 

[darkdays 8]

Had these done a while ago but never had the chance to post.

Easton Mako M7 Boots with the Mission Hi-Lo setup. Dropped in some Speedplates too and they are great!

[IPv6Freely 2092]

1 minute ago, darkdays said:

Had these done a while ago but never had the chance to post.

Easton Mako M7 Boots with the Mission Hi-Lo setup. Dropped in some Speedplates too and they are great!

I just bought a pair of M7s to do this exact thing. Debating between marsblade or something else. I don't play roller hockey so really just need something for skating on asphalt and sidewalks.

How do you determine what size chassis you need? And did the holes line up or did you have to re-drill?

[darkdays 8]

2 minutes ago, IPv6Freely said:

I just bought a pair of M7s to do this exact thing. Debating between marsblade or something else. I don't play roller hockey so really just need something for skating on asphalt and sidewalks.

How do you determine what size chassis you need? And did the holes line up or did you have to re-drill?

I got my chassis online and they have the size measurement that goes along with whatever size hockey boot you have. I got L cause my boot is 11. Also, I had to get the holes re-drilled.

I only play roller once or twice a week and it's beer league stuff anyways so I opted for the Mission Aluminum chassis instead of Magnesium. I throw on some outdoor wheels to skate around on asphalt as well and the chassis and boot combo feels good.

[215BroadStBullies610 435]

Does anyone know a good place in the Philadelphia, PA area to get work done? @EBondo may you would know? I have a pair of old Graf Supra 705's that I don't use but still have a good amount of life left. One of the guys on one of my ice hockey men's league teams is in need of guys for the new season that starts next Thursday haha. Late notice but I'd like play again and even if I start the season late, I'd like to make use of skates that are still usable. Thanks MSHers.

Edited February 17, 2018 by 215BroadStBullies610
Update skate model #