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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/08/20 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Just pre-ordered mine, very interested in this version. Got 2 original Marsblade going strong for multiple years, plus 1 Sprung, so this will be very interesting to compare.
  2. 2 points
    Vs the O1, the R1 chassis has a larger radius to provide more support and stability when pushing off. The smaller radius in the rear allows to still get the smoothness in turns and longer wheel contact with the surface. It offers 4 different interchangeable radius inserts so you can customize according to personal preference. The O1 has a straight 4 ft radius. The R1 comes with the combinations: 5 (rear)-8 (front) ft, 8-8ft, 5-15ft and 8-15ft. //Per, Inventor
  3. 2 points
    At that price I jumped on the preorder as well!
  4. 2 points
    Not doubting you’re playing experience at all, just pontificating on differences.... I feel like when I play higher levels of hockey, shots from the point are always coming in low. People can very reliably be in front of the net and not worry about taking one in the stomach or chest or face. And when I play at lower levels, dudes are just ripping high shots from wherever without regard to anyone’s safety or accuracy or whether that corner shot is actually going to miss high and rim around and be a breakout for the other team.
  5. 1 point
    The O1s definitely sit tall. That was the biggest adjustment when I first started skating with. It was/is still worth given the much easier transition from playing ice to roller and vice versa much more smoother. From the looks of it, the R1s do look to have a lower profile.
  6. 1 point
    Good question. I've been using the off-ice training model for 2 years now for playing and I've really enjoyed them. I've always been concerned about how the O1s would hold up though. The R1 chassis is what I hope is the right upgrade.
  7. 1 point
    This is good advice and can help immensely because a low, hard wrist shot has a lot of similarities to a long, elevated outlet pass. Why, in my experience, defensemen typically have stronger low wrist shots. (cause we all know in beer league, when a defensemen gets possession of the puck at the goal line, all the forwards are already at the red line!...lol).
  8. 1 point
    🤯 Finally something to get excited about!
  9. 1 point
    SISU, by far. Only mouth guard I can tolerate wearing.
  10. 1 point
    If you have some tools at home it is relatively easy. 2 x C clamps, stones from the garden and some blocks of wood to form a frame. Here is a thread on it (as well as your own spot puncher), scan down to my post with pics so you can see what you need and it working: This is easy to set up, make sure you lace the first eyelets so the top of the boot keeps its shape. Measure up the width of the boot before you start and as you use the clamps so you can control the amount of the stretch. I don't use heat, just time. The downside is getting right into the toe cap area (if that is where you need to get to), the shape of the c clamps make this an issue. This is why boot stretchers use curved arms. A while ago I made another simple tool to get right into the toe cap area, you need a strap hinge, 2 round head bolts and a small length of hollow pipe (to fit over the bolts) cut to the required length (different sized boots require different lengths) and a ratchet spanner or ring spanner. pic here https://imgur.com/a/4APhUS9 You will also need something to pack the back of the strap hinge against the heel of the boot, this is to stop the device sliding back down the boot as you begin to open it up. I also packed the sides of the strap hinge to help keep it in place. Pretty self explanatory, cut the tube to length, slide the tube over the two bolts, fit into the boot and start winding away. I filed out the strap hinge for the bolt that has the nut on it so the bolt sat in the clamp and would not turn. This works really well, almost too well as I could see the toe cap starting to separate away from the boot. I subsequently made a clamp for the bottom of the toe cap to stop this from happening. Only downside with this is the further you get into the toe cap, the harder it is to wind the nut, you need patience, feel and time. If you just want to widen the forefoot area this would work really well. Edit - I left a washer out that sits between the nut and the tube.



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