Stewie

All aboard! Jumping on the konixx pure train here. I’ve owned a number of other wheels, mostly labeda, and their performance is better then all those. Also very noteable, they do not crack for me anywhere near as easy as other wheels have, so they’ve lasted longer.

I don’t know your skates very well, but I’d assume it’s an easy convert. the main differences between an ice boot and a roller boot typically are that an inline boot will have more ventilation (toe cap etc) and many times better wear resistance on the sides due to the abrasion roller skates will take. The rest of the recommendations will likely depend on what your end goal is for these skates and usage, but they should be good as long as you like how they fit

I’m ok with the format. The league was quite bunched up for the last playoff spots, especially when you count the uneven amount of games played by teams. The only team that is part of this bracket that I don’t believe had a real legitimate shot of making the playoffs in a full season was Montreal, and Chicago would’ve had a hard path as well. I think a better system in my opinion would’ve been 11 teams, with 5 guaranteed slots and 6 teams playing in the play in round.

I’ve been using their one piece sticks for a while now. Impressed for the price, currently my go to for roller hockey as I love the customization options and that I can get them already to size

Item 3 warrior stick sold!

Hello Petter! do you know if True is going to offer the marsblade on their custom boots by any chance? Looking to try that combo out!

Yeah that’s the FMT skates. The shop I’ve bought my true skates from said that True has made with the mars blade roller chassis before, but that also could’ve been when you can send in a chassis for them to mount before they had their own thing, so he’s clarifying through True for me

My original hesitation was I am looking In to wether they will be available as an option for True inline skates. I think the original mars blade was offered by true. I was just gonna get them for that price though in case I like them so much and want to convert my existing inline skates over so that I can have the same off-road and on road experience maybe @Marsblade knows?

Damn! What was it at before? Meant to check out a few days ago and totally got side tracked. Still may check it out, not interested in the wheels and bearings as I prefer my konixx and bones.

Love the pouch, have one, but the shift steel has a part that sticks up taller than the zipper so it cannot he zipped shut. Could potentially look into replacing the zipper with some other closure system, but I also work around lots of nice 3D printers and foam so making my own wouldn’t be too hard either.

Anyone know a good steel holder that fits the shift steel? Thinking about 3D printing one if nothing easy enough exists on the market

Have the same issue with my a6.0 stick as well as a shaft I have of theirs. Both super gummy.

My mistake, misread it.

I think the confusion is stemming from you possibly quoting the wrong post. He’s talking about the difference between p90t and p90tm, so showing pictures of p28, p29 and p90t isn’t going to show that difference

There’s some advantage to roller players too who eat through the bottom of blades quicker than normal

Definitely rough looking fit and finish wise. I’ll probably wait on either a price drop or bonus time to get one

They are also at peranis as well

Photos to be added over holiday weekend. 2 pairs of modded Mako M8 skates in size 7.5D Sold RH STX Surgeon RX3 75flex x88 curve grip stick. Mild usage. measures 63.25 inches flat against wall. $80 RH Warrior Super Mac Daddy Retro 75 flex W16 Karlsson grip stick. Sold Revision Flex wheels- Version that comes with True Custom Inlines. 80 80 76 76 from both skates (8 total wheels) Used only 2 hours, just prefer my Konixx wheels. Soft Version of the wheels. $60 All prices include shipping to the US.

No, the last several posts were tangentially discussing the VT testing and methods and not directly this helmet. I’d prefer to see more input on the helmet than discuss a topic that’s already discussed in length

with his shot, meters per hour.

I believe there is already a topic where this has been discussed at length. Can we stick to discussing the helmet here?

I went through the same process as everyone else. I noticed the masking tape issue in store, they offered to remove the masking tape from the right boot for me but I said I could just as easily do it and I would prefer that we waited for the boot to cool down to remove it. I glanced over the rest of the skate, but couldn’t really spend a lot of time looking at the bottom as I also had an appointment for a replacement of my cell phone which died, so was in a bit of a time crunch, and don’t get out to that side of town too often so maybe I overbooked. Again none of these issues weren’t fixable by me, and I’m overall happy with the skates. Perhaps as a consumer I didn’t spend enough time looking at every detail, but then again, someone there has to have the job to do such a thing before the skate goes out. I guarantee if I was that person I would’ve caught these issues and cleaned them up really quick before sending out, because details matter. All of these issues were noticed prior to usage as I have had them for 3 weeks but due to a wrist injury as well as a death in the family I hadn’t skated in a month prior to this week. I may mention the glue issue to the shop when I order the ice version, but like I’ve mentioned in another of my replies, the issue wouldn’t probably be noticeable on the ice skate due to where the holders are riveted on to the boot. Some other slight cosmetic issues on the boot exist but I don’t really care about those so much since it’s roller hockey and the boot is likely to get beat up anyways after some usage 🙂

please note that i have the inline version. not sure how many of those you have done, but the holder on the ice version would cover up the glue issue i am seeing, as the copper rivet on the front tower would press down and combine toe cap to the boot. The tower on the inline boot is much more narrow and shorter, the copper rivets on the front tower do not reach the toe cap edge, hence why people probably aren't seeing this issue as much.

could also be that some people arent reporting the issues to the shops. Mine were easy enough fixes, just removing the taping material from the right skate vent inners, and cleaning up some of the other stuff. Just something that couldve been caught pre consumer to give a bit of a better impression, but nothing out there. Perhaps i am harder on stuff like this having worked in a QC lab prior to moving into research.

True called the shop I was scanned at and asked them if I wanted indoor or outdoor wheels, so I went with indoor thinking I’d re sell them. Unfortunately I forgot it was a Hilo style chassis so I couldn’t just switch my Konixx over so I’ll be selling the wheels gently used 🙂 if it’s truely soft vs firm indoor wheels it wasn’t conveyed well to the shop. Really it should be on the order form.