VegasHockey

FT4 Pro and FT6 pro are the only pads that fit me and offer good protection. Everything else doesn't stay locked in place. The MACH looks to have good protection, but the poor fit and overall design were dealbreakers for me.

I also need a small in this model. The medium, even when collapsed, is too big.

I do. Need to request if they will allow me to share that information, though. Stay tuned.

I move between CCM (100K and FT6 Pro) and TRUE skates (SVH Custom) and have not had the issue you speak of. I assume it's the pitch of the TRUE boot that might be throwing off your center of gravity since it's more pitched forward. You might want to try putting in a heel lift in the FT6 Pro.

Normally a 7.5 regular, in the FT6 Pro I wear a 7.0 Tapered. The changes to the new skate last has made them fit overall bigger.

Catalyst and Hzrdus now fit the same.

Ice Warehouse shows the following: 600 grams: https://www.icewarehouse.com/CCM_Jetspeed_FT6_Pro/descpage-CSGFT6P.html 619 grams: https://www.icewarehouse.com/CCM_Jetspeed_FT6/descpage-CSGFT6.html

I normally wear a 14" shin, but with the FT6P I had to change to a 15" otherwise the tongue would not tuck properly. It seems the 15" FT6P is actually more like a 14.5”. Otherwise, I have had no issues and like the FT6P a lot.

Use one of these. They weigh a ton. https://www.hockeymonkey.com/blue-sports-accessories-adjustable-composite-end-plug.html

X5 Pro and X4 are also both 10'

Seemed to work for those players I know who played D1 and Major Junior. That being said, yes, it's not ideal, and I would not do it myself to my own holders. YMMV.

The FT6 and FT6 Pro both have the Aer-Tec suspension system. I think it does make a difference in the shoulders and shins. Maybe a slight difference in the elbows, but the new strapping systems seem to be the biggest improvement with those. In the pants, there is no discernible difference at all. The main difference between the FT6 Pro and the FT6 is the FT6 has less ZoteFoam / DryFoam. See images below.

10'

I have seen some players use a dremel to widen the parabolic channel in the middle of the holder, so they could use their old steel.

TC2 is a P92, not a P90. That would be the TC6. All the TRUE stick curve names will be changing this year though to be closer to other brands... Thank God! The new sticks releasing this year will have that curve offering.

Yeah, the “cooling” in the FT6 Pro vs FT4 and others are pretty much non-existent. As you noted, the marginal changes are nice, but not significant. If I had to choose between the FT6 Pro at full price and the FT4 Pro at 40-50% discount, I would go with the FT4 Pro.

I also have seen the FT6 Pro skate in person, no exposed carbon is visible. I think only the custom option will have exposed carbon. Such a shame, since they look so good!

Most marine epoxy needs 24 hours to fully cure. Make sure to read the back of the packaging to verify, as it dependent on brand. The tape will get stuck to the resin, so use something like thin scotch tape which is easily removed with light sanding, or you can melt it with a heat gun.

I checked LS Edge holder vs PowerFly holders at the store and the PowerFly holder is actually slightly longer than the LS Edge.

I weighed the Hyperlite2 and Mach today. The Hyperlite2 was 10 grams lighter than the Mach without steel. With steel, the Hyperlite2 was 16 grams lighter.

When I weighed the Mach and Hyperlite in the same size, there was about a 7 grams difference, with the Hyperlite weighing less. This was a size 7.0 Fit2. Maybe the larger the size, the less the difference in weight. Not sure. Agreed. Unless we are talking about 200+ grams, I don't think it really matters.

Correct. It's a "like for like" replacement with the CCM XS and LS Edge. You can literally pop off an LS Edge holder and swap a PowerFly on if you want.

It feels slightly similar to the SSM Natural profile, but less aggressive in the toe and heel with a little less glide. If you prefer a less aggressive heel and toe and are looking for more agility than glide, the Power Cut is a good option. I personally like the SSM Natural and also the Skatescribe Power Cut profile. For those not familiar with the SSM Natural here is that information: SSM has developed a set of multi-radius profiles in connection with the Sweden Hockey Institute. The SSM Natural Curve combines 4 radii and pitch to optimize your performance. The Natural Curve can be customized by adding pitch. The approximate specifications for the Natural Curve are (A) 4.9’, (B) 9.84’, (C) 26.24’, (D) 6.56’ where “A” is the front most section of the profile and “D” is the back. Radius A : A small radius gives perfect insertion and fast acceleration. Radius B : Choose from 10’ to 13’ for a combination of mobility and glide. Radius C : A large radius improves glide / stability / balance. Radius D : A small radius makes the profile fit an existing shape of a skate blade. The list below details the SSM Natural Curve profile options: Natural Curve Quick, Radii A, 10’, C, D (246-254) Natural Curve Quick, Radii A, 10’, C, D (263-272) Natural Curve Quick, Radii A, 10’, C, D (280-288) Natural Curve Quick, Radii A, 10’, C, D (296-306) Natural Curve 11, Radii A, 11’, C, D (263-272) Natural Curve 11, Radii A, 11’, C, D (280-288) Natural Curve 11, Radii A, 11’, C, D (296-306) Natural Curve 12, Radii A, 12’, C, D (263-272) Natural Curve 12, Radii A, 12’, C, D (280-288) Natural Curve 12, Radii A, 12’, C, D (296-306) Natural Curve 13, Radii A, 13, C, D (263-272) Natural Curve 13, Radii A, 13’, C, D (280-288) Natural Curve 13, Radii A, 13, C, D (296-306)

The recommended ratio for mixing graphite powder with epoxy is 10% by volume. This is equivalent to 1.5 tablespoons of graphite powder per 8 fluid ounces of epoxy. Clean blade thoroughly. Do not use anything aggressive that could possibly melt the foam inside the blade. Buy some powdered graphite and marine epoxy. Make a mixture based on the values specified previously. Spread it into the cracks or apply to the rough surface. If you are filling in a damage area, such as a gash, tape it down to compact it and use a clamp if needed to keep pressure. You can lightly sand the area after the epoxy is fully cured, if needed.

No. The Hyperlite weighs less.