Sniper9

Totally know what you mean. Using the CCM or Bauer spacers will resolve this issue. Using the old school circle spacers that come with the ronin visors will cause the temples to flare out bc it doesn't properly fill the gap between the visor and helmet. These are the spacers you should look at getting. A&R Sports Visor Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DJM9DDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XmQgEbCJC6D1R My favourite are the CCM spacers. Absolutely no flaring at all. https://images.app.goo.gl/vWLbs5465FTePuid7 I extra like the CCM kit bc of the t nut style posts that make visor installation much easier not having to dealing with a free spinning nut. Not gonna lie. The main reason I chose the CCM visor over any other brand was bc of their mounting kit and their visor cover 😬 PS my helmets are medium, so technically the larger helmet you have the less the visor should stretch your temples as the gap won't be as big as say a visor on a small helmet.

Well, one of my intermediates just exploded in the shaft where my bottom hand sits. Good thing it's still within the warranty period. Did the claim online. @SkateWorksPNW do you know how quick they are to reply to the online warranty submissions, or as a retailer, is it different for you. Also there was no option for the intermediate size for the a6.0ht on the pull down list. Not sure why. Would be a nice surprise if they sent me an ax9 😬

Never said he did but just replying to the post above about true changing their design

Just tested out the 68 flex for afew mins. What I noticed was wristers were good. Just as good as 75 flex but less effort. Accuracy good too. Slap shots took a tiny adjustment but seemed just as good as the 75. The only diff I noticed with shots was snap shots. Def felt off with snappers. Felt almost like there's too much whip and accuracy wasn't quite there. Hitting the net but when wanting to go bardown the pick didn't get there. Only about 3/4 high off the ground. Overall I like it but the 75 is def more versatile for me. Stickhandling etc seemed more or less the same.

The medium cage doesn't fit,? Sorry might have missed it if it was already mentioned.

Use a thermometer to ensure the peak heat is what you want it at. This way you know it won't really rise above that. Stoves get hotter than the set temp as it will go down to it's setting when it's pre heating. Once it's preheated, just wait another 5-10 to ensure it stabilizes around the temp u want. I wouldn't even bother turning it off while your skates are in there since Bauer and CCM don't even recommend having your skates in there for longer than 3-4 mins. Def not long enough to do damage esp at that temp. Just make sure you dont lace up tighter than 75% and don't stand/walk around until it's fully cool. I generally throw the skates in the freezer or fridge for five mins after.

Don't think they will since the easy option is just not to lace the top eyelet. It will be too much of a hassle to redesign the skate to appease another category of players when the solution is already there (skip the top eyelet). From just looking at pictures, even though the trend right now seems to be players starting to skip the top eyelet, the majority still tie their skates all the way up.

I wonder why they went form a 65 to 68 flex option Also, how did you find the difference between the 65 vs 75? Big diff or only slightly in terms of adjustment?

Just got my two 68 intermediate a6.0 ht sticks. I can confirm they are identical in dimensions to the Sr version. I measured the across section of them at the butt end with the plug out. 👍.

The CCM orthomove insoles are pretty wide and I found it was a PAIN to get them out of the boot once inside. So if they are the yellow CCM orthomove insoles they aren't glued in there just wedged in there...

The facing on the CCM skates actually do wrap over the tongue during the heat moulding. It inevitably does it when you lace them while they are hot. It may not to the extent of the Trues but they still do to w degree. I would imagine the same with Bauer's with their traditional eyelets. Not sure about the lace lock system as it's one strip of hard plastic.

The reduced facing makes it easier to reduce negative space without necessarily doing the wrap technique though. You don't need as much wrap to reduce the negative space as the laces can be used to adjust the fit more so than the facing. With more wrap the laces have less to do with actual adjustment, and also makes it easier to get your foot in and out. But like you said, even without a reduced facing you can eliminate the negative space from heating alone unless it's in the area like the toebox and base of the skate / sole.

If heat moulded properly with the tongue, it should literally mould to your foot and the facing should wrap your foot and accommodate your low volume foot. My trues def seemed like it had more volume than my as1 pencil test wise (tongue pulled out) but the true tongue is quite a bit beefier than most stock retail tongues and once the tongue was in place, it filled up the difference in negative space. Along with using the wrap technique on the top of the skates, I used tensor for the entire forefoot so I had a complete wrap on my entire boot during the heat moulding. If this doesn't work then you should request a remake if the fit does cause you issues. If you're basing it just off the pencil test and not actual performance and fit wise laces up, it's not really a fair comparison bc the fit of Trues is like no other. They were great skates imo, but of course to each their own and they aren't for everyone.

Ya I liked the rigidity of the originals. The arch support area of the 2.0s are noticeably flimsier. Still a better option than anything else out there for me.

Are you using the stock CCM insole? The CCM orthomove insoles are not good imo. I've used speed plates on both my as1 and true skates with no issues. I really like the speedplates. Won't use anything else. I've even stocked up and have three pairs of the original speed plates as I like those better than the 2.0s.

Ya I'm more interested in this as it looks more grippy/sandpapery. I've used and didn't like these. They got cut fairly easily and I didn't like how rubbery they were. Felt like almost as if the puck bounced ever so slightly off the blade.

I think it's just a matter of getting used to the new boots if you swapped the steel and still have the same issue. Skates now adays a quite a bit stiffer than even 3-4 years ago, and the tongue on the 2s is def a totally diff feel. That and/or the diff insoles. Try putting your old insoles in the new skates?

That's the cage version of the visit flip lol. Aka monahan, kronwall, hagelin etc.

If they're anything like the as1, the boots are very spot heat mouldable with a heat gun. You could get easily great up an area and form it with ease. I did this when I had mine. You have to be careful bc they heat up fast and get super soft.

Guess you'll hate me for posting this then..... https://hockeysupremacy.com/en/helmets/visors/bauer-hdo-deluxe-replacement-lens-2-sets.html They don't make them anymore but some places still have stock

You're looking for the actual screws that have the flush top vs the dome shape that all other screws are like, am I correct? Most pro shops should have the hardware kit but it will come with the plastic clips too. Also what would have been cheaper and more economical is to buy the two pack replacement visor and the hardware set separate (this is about 10-15 bucks). When u buy the single visor it's one visor and hardware for 99. (or equivalent in USD). If you're in Canada, here. https://cyclonetaylor.com/bauer-pro-clip-side-kit-1-set-2017.html If you don't want to buy the kit with clips u may have to just go to the hardware store to find the equivalent. Bring your helmet posts to ensure the threads are the same

By instep do u mean arch. Instep is on the top of your foot , the area where lace bite generally occurs with ppl.

I'm 5'10 165. I cut my sticks 2.5" from the standard 60". Interested to see how the 68 flex works for me. Used the 75 flex true a6.0ht yesterday and was very happy with it coming off of the ek365 75 flex which played more like an 80-85. Clappers with the ek was better, prob the best with any stick I've used. The true 75 was good as well but def felt the stick bend a lot more and although velocity seemed to be there I rarely gor it over 2-3 feet off the ice, whereas with the ek365 it was bar down almost every time. I guess it's a give and take going with diff flexes.

What's your height and weight.

I'll let you know. 75 is fine for me but I've always wanted to try something with a lot of whip. When cut down my 75 is closer to an 80. I'm 5'10 165-170 lbs so the 75 is technically the "ideal" flex for me even cut down. I cut my sticks 2.5 inches on 60" sticks. I have no problems getting my stick to flex but wanted to try one flex eating lower just bc it seems like what all the cool kids in the pros are doing these days. Or petterson Matthews etc. The intermediate true in 68 flex is listed at 58" tall so I'd still have to cut it about half an inch and would technically make it feel closer to 69-70 at most, so it's a good 10 flex in feeling drop from my cut down 75. Should be interesting to see how it feels. If you use your Sr sticks full length you def would need an extension, and that would make the stick feel even more whippy than 68... I think big you went from 75 to something as low as 60-65 with an extension it would be too much of a change.