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VH Footwear/TRUE by Scott Van Horne

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1 hour ago, flip12 said:

Do you lace to the top in AS1’s and Trues? How high cut are they, comparatively?

The true I lace up to the top and even tightness throughout.

The as1 I can't lace tight on the top eyelet. It has to be fairly relaxed or I have no flexion so the as1 seems to be higher for sure but I haven't measured.  What seems to work is just regular tension throughout until the top where I'll bend forward to where I think my stride bend is and tie it tight on that position. This way it gives me decent flexion. 

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22 minutes ago, Sniper9 said:

The true I lace up to the top and even tightness throughout.

The as1 I can't lace tight on the top eyelet. It has to be fairly relaxed or I have no flexion so the as1 seems to be higher for sure but I haven't measured.  What seems to work is just regular tension throughout until the top where I'll bend forward to where I think my stride bend is and tie it tight on that position. This way it gives me decent flexion. 

If you can measure where the first and second eyelets line up from the AS1 compared to the Trues, I'd be keenly interested.

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45 minutes ago, Sniper9 said:

The true I lace up to the top and even tightness throughout.

The as1 I can't lace tight on the top eyelet. It has to be fairly relaxed or I have no flexion so the as1 seems to be higher for sure but I haven't measured.  What seems to work is just regular tension throughout until the top where I'll bend forward to where I think my stride bend is and tie it tight on that position. This way it gives me decent flexion. 

I dont lace the top two eyelets in the AS1 or FT1/FT2 and dont lace the top eyelet in the TRUE skates. I think in my next TRUE order I am going to ask them to use fewer eyelets and not to put in a top eyelet. 

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31 minutes ago, flip12 said:

If you can measure where the first and second eyelets line up from the AS1 compared to the Trues, I'd be keenly interested.

Sorry, my skates are in my storage room and I honestly don't want to go out of my way to do that. 

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52 minutes ago, Sniper9 said:

Sorry, my skates are in my storage room and I honestly don't want to go out of my way to do that. 

No worries, doesn't have to be this month. Just if you remember to make a visual comparison before you offload your Trues. I'm in no rush, just curious.

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9 hours ago, flip12 said:

Aside from fit, how do people who've tried other top end skates feel about the performance of the Trues? If I were to get new skates now, I'd probably get Trues, simply because I like lower cut skates. I've tried MLX, and like the glide and the edge control I get in them, but I haven't tried newer top model skates from Bauer or CCM to compare.

I didn’t find much of a performance difference.  I skate still like I skate.  However from a comfort standpoint, significant difference.  My Trues were pretty close to spot on in terms of fit;  I had no break-in period, no hot spots, and no need to punch or alter the actual shape of the boot like I previously had to do in other skates.  Previously, I always left top eyelet unlaced, but tie all the way to top on Trues.

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On 2/15/2019 at 6:17 AM, adam14 said:

Anybody that is doing this on their own without a shops help, you're either doing it wrong or your shop isnt doing their part. Of course True doesn't want to deal with each customer on an individual basis. Our relationship and business was steady enough with them that they could update me with everything we had on order on a weekly basis so I could update our customers. 

 

My shop is 2 hours away and the reason I had to have them remade.... not going to the shop to introduce a middleman when I can go straight to the source. I get your point though.

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I used the search feature but couldn't easily find an answer to my question so......

how do we get new tendon guards when the originals break? the tendon guard on my gf's VH/True skates has cracked. a google search wasn't horribly helpful. I emailed True but haven't heard anything back as of yet. we don't have a local shop that sells True skates so that's not an option.

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Probably only option is contacting True as you've already done. Maybe call their customer service? They're probably overwhelmed by people emailing them asking for status instead of their LHS :trollface:

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37 minutes ago, shoeshine boy said:

I used the search feature but couldn't easily find an answer to my question so......

how do we get new tendon guards when the originals break? the tendon guard on my gf's VH/True skates has cracked. a google search wasn't horribly helpful. I emailed True but haven't heard anything back as of yet. we don't have a local shop that sells True skates so that's not an option.

Generally you can purchase accessories from them via email. Tongues etc. Or go through the shop u got scanned. It's a provincial holiday in Canada so likely won't get a reply until later this week or tomorrow. 

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I’m sure this info is in here somewhere, but I don’t feel like digging through hundreds of pages. I have a few fit issues that I imagine several others have experienced and I’m looking for suggestions. 

Ive had my Trues for about three months now and have only baked once (would like to try it at home, but I’m weary). 

The issues I’m having:

1. I have a bump on the outside of both of my heels. It causes significant pain if I skate several games. Should this be addressed by pushing that spot out?

2. I have some pretty severe blisters on both arches. I have noticed that this area runs when I do multiple games (I’m an official), but I had 12 this weekend and it’s left me with two nearly identical 3-inch blisters. Is this a matter of negative space? I’m using the stock 2-piece foot beds. Would switch to a foot bed with stiff arch support address this?

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35 minutes ago, jared9356 said:

I’m sure this info is in here somewhere, but I don’t feel like digging through hundreds of pages. I have a few fit issues that I imagine several others have experienced and I’m looking for suggestions. 

Ive had my Trues for about three months now and have only baked once (would like to try it at home, but I’m weary). 

The issues I’m having:

1. I have a bump on the outside of both of my heels. It causes significant pain if I skate several games. Should this be addressed by pushing that spot out?

2. I have some pretty severe blisters on both arches. I have noticed that this area runs when I do multiple games (I’m an official), but I had 12 this weekend and it’s left me with two nearly identical 3-inch blisters. Is this a matter of negative space? I’m using the stock 2-piece foot beds. Would switch to a foot bed with stiff arch support address this?

Are both 1 and 2 being caused by the skates, or were they prior issues?

1 - yes

2- possibly, worth a try. 

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8 minutes ago, IPv6Freely said:

Are both 1 and 2 being caused by the skates, or were they prior issues?

1 - yes

2- possibly, worth a try. 

Both came with the skates. As for pushing out the heel area, should I try the tissue technique or just push it out by hand.

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2 hours ago, oldtrainerguy28 said:

Tissue technique always first. 

 

 

Figured. How thick should the tissue be folded to, roughly? 4-6 mm? Don’t wanna push it out too far and have negative space there.

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2 hours ago, jared9356 said:

Figured. How thick should the tissue be folded to, roughly? 4-6 mm? Don’t wanna push it out too far and have negative space there.

Those areas are very solid. You aren't pushing the carbon but more the lining. From my experience to get the lower part of the boot to change shape ( arch, heel), a heat gun is the only way to spot mould it. Baking the skates as a whole isn't going to allow you to Target the certain areas well enough nor is the heat high enough. 

Personally I'd use a heat gun especially if you need to redo the tissue technique more than once. Seems like waste to have to rebake the whole skate for a couple of small areas. 

Blisters are from friction. I'm not a fan of the stock insoles. You can also trim the red insoles arch areas to see if that would work. 

Your heel issue I would try the tissue technique but with a heat gun. Personally, Ive had great success dialing in my skates with the heat gun where baking in general wasn't cutting it. 

Edited by Sniper9
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1 hour ago, Sniper9 said:

Those areas are very solid. You aren't pushing the carbon but more the lining. From my experience to get the lower part of the boot to change shape ( arch, heel), a heat gun is the only way to spot mould it. Baking the skates as a whole isn't going to allow you to Target the certain areas well enough nor is the heat high enough. 

Personally I'd use a heat gun especially if you need to redo the tissue technique more than once. Seems like waste to have to rebake the whole skate for a couple of small areas. 

Blisters are from friction. I'm not a fan of the stock insoles. You can also trim the red insoles arch areas to see if that would work. 

Your heel issue I would try the tissue technique but with a heat gun. Personally, Ive had great success dialing in my skates with the heat gun where baking in general wasn't cutting it. 

Very useful input. I plan on rebaking just to get an overall better wrap. When I originally baked the skates, I had the tongues (which are very stiff and thick when new) pushed down too far which resulted in extra negative space in the midfoot. Would you recommend a full bake before spot heating or vice versa? If it even matters.

I believe the arch problem is to do with too much space rather than not having enough. So I’m thinking I’ll try superfeet or the new CCM insoles. 

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3 hours ago, jared9356 said:

Very useful input. I plan on rebaking just to get an overall better wrap.

Creating a pocket in the heel for a bump is really hard to do unless you have the right tools or the material on the inside of the heel has enough thickness to make a pocket. If not the latter (first skates I dd this on were pro spec apx2's that had very thin inner heel material), the heel is a very reinforced, circular area and it takes a lot of pressure to make it move. Typical punches don't work because they actually push the outer area of the punch inwards in the heel whilst you get a little bit of movement in the middle of the punch ergo no result. You need a punch that is shaped liked the heel for the punch to work or you can do this: I made a frame that clamped and locked the boot into the middle of it and attached another frame that sat outside the quarter panel where I wanted the punch to occur. Then I used a c clamp to pull the heel area at that spot out with heat added. You need a lot of pressure to get the heel to move so you have to be careful here with the heat and pressure or else you can distort the shape of the heel. This worked ok but it is a slow process. I now have access to a 3D printer and I print up a punch according to the boot size, heel shape and position of the punch. Good luck with the tissue process but I wouldn't be holding my breath, heat and pressure will most likely give you the best result.

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7 hours ago, jared9356 said:

Very useful input. I plan on rebaking just to get an overall better wrap. When I originally baked the skates, I had the tongues (which are very stiff and thick when new) pushed down too far which resulted in extra negative space in the midfoot. Would you recommend a full bake before spot heating or vice versa? If it even matters.

I believe the arch problem is to do with too much space rather than not having enough. So I’m thinking I’ll try superfeet or the new CCM insoles. 

The tongues being too far down is a common issue I see where people aren't pulling the tongues up after putting the skates on. I see so many pics of this online. Of people or even lhs watched the videos produced by true and svh, all these things are addressed as well as little fine tuning techniques. 

If you need to rebake hour entire skate bc of overall fit, do that first, and try the tissue technique in the heel and see how it goes. 

The CCM Orthomove insoles are garbage I'm. Worst feeling aftermarket insoles that I've tried. 

Personally, even with the trues being a custom skate, I find the best insoles I've tried in them and with other skates are the speed plates.  Using SP will also possibly prevent you from having to fiddle with the skates arch as the SP will fill in any negative space you may have without you having to alter the actual shape of the boot (unless you want to). 

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23 hours ago, Sniper9 said:

Generally you can purchase accessories from them via email. Tongues etc. Or go through the shop u got scanned. It's a provincial holiday in Canada so likely won't get a reply until later this week or tomorrow. 

they got back to me this morning. it's funny, all these years and I've never heard of the Canadian holiday known as Family Day. 😆

and for the other poster kind enough to answer, we didn't really get her feet scanned at a shop. JR did measurements for us when we visited Detroit for USA Hockey Nationals a few years ago. it was right in the middle of the transition from VH to True.

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2 hours ago, shoeshine boy said:

and for the other poster kind enough to answer, we didn't really get her feet scanned at a shop. JR did measurements for us when we visited Detroit for USA Hockey Nationals a few years ago. it was right in the middle of the transition from VH to True.

I did.  Did them how I normally would custom fit other brands (which was more information than what VH was asking for at the time.)  Only VH/True fitting I ever did.  LOL

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4 hours ago, shoeshine boy said:

they got back to me this morning. it's funny, all these years and I've never heard of the Canadian holiday known as Family Day. 😆

February was the only month of the year without a long weekend. So obviously it makes sense to create one for no reason 🙂 

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