TRUE TF9/TF7 skates

[pisani34 10]

3 hours ago, hockeydad3 said:

How many hours have you been on the ice with them?  Even minor changes with my blades take me up to ten hours to fully adapt. 

If the boot fits you better than your other skates, you could go the profiling or  changing the holder way. 

Only 3 games so far with the size 6. I've had about 10 hours in the TF9s in total, but the other hours were experimenting with other bigger sizes, and those were a ballgame of different problems dealing with the fit of the boot. Now that those were mostly addressed I was hoping to focus on the fine tuning of them, just been a little difficult to find ice time.

 

Didn't think it would be so hard to adjust as I've been in makos for a long time, but just not over the past few years as I was in my super tacks. I will have to try and get to more ice times and ODR

[Sniper9 529]

On 12/14/2021 at 8:39 PM, PBH said:

Nice! I hate dropping down holder sizes. I usually skate on a 271/272 but recently borrowed a friends skates that are pro stock Patrick Kane and they have a 280 holder. I love the 280 holder on a size 7.25 skate. I might actually tinker with going up a holder size!

Is this bc of stability? Seems like something more than preference bc most nhlers use oversize. 

[VegasHockey 1280]

On 12/23/2021 at 2:02 PM, Sniper9 said:

Is this bc of stability? Seems like something more than preference bc most nhlers use oversize. 

I think the longer steel changes the balance point but also allows for more of a working area on the blade. It feels more stable overall compared to a 263. 

[hockeydad3 51]

Do you really think that changing the length of the blade by 3,4% will have a noticeable effect? 

I think tat it's more about the profile and the mounting point of the holder. This would mean that you could get a similar effect by profiling and/or a realignment of the holder. 

[VegasHockey 1280]

10 hours ago, hockeydad3 said:

Do you really think that changing the length of the blade by 3,4% will have a noticeable effect? 

I think tat it's more about the profile and the mounting point of the holder. This would mean that you could get a similar effect by profiling and/or a realignment of the holder. 

I would normally agree with you but consider how such a significant number of high level players use oversized holders. I find I get better balance and toe snap out of a longer holder/steel combination.

I personally tell a noticeable difference between the same profile on a 263 vs a 271 regardless of altering the pivot and balance point to be similar. 

[hockeydad3 51]

How do you mount the holder? Do you align it with the center, the heel or the toe? And how are you sure that you don't change the pitch, pivot point and blade alignment? Is the longer holder also taller? Do you have to drill all holes? 

Edited December 26, 2021 by hockeydad3

[VegasHockey 1280]

On 12/26/2021 at 3:23 AM, hockeydad3 said:

How do you mount the holder? Do you align it with the center, the heel or the toe? And how are you sure that you don't change the pitch, pivot point and blade alignment? Is the longer holder also taller? Do you have to drill all holes? 

Thats a lot of questions. 

I align the holder to the center of the boot. This requires drilling many new holes, though sometimes a handful of them actually line up and can be reused. I tend to use a mix of carbon and epoxy to close all holes that cannot be reused before drilling and mounting. 

Pitch doesn't change. Holder height doesn't change. Steel height doesn't change. 

Pivot point does change. Since the holder itself is longer even when you mount the oversized holder centered to the boot you are moving the pivot point back. 

[Westside 232]

Question for you guys regarding hot spots. I’ve got blisters a few times on the inner upper arch of my right foot. At first I thought it was my ‘tape tab’ to more easily remove my superfeet, but that didn’t seem to be it. From there I’ve tried using a rock/clamp to punch the area out and rebaked them with a tape bump on the spot of my foot. Both the clamp and the rebaked seem to have fixed the issue for a game or two, but I just got off two hours on the ice today and got a nice puckered piece of skin again. I’m kind of surprised it hasn’t callused over at this point, but I’m looking for other opinions on how to correct this. I don’t feel my foot moving in the boot and am not getting any hot spots elsewhere. For my next game I was going to swap out the superfeet for the stock insoles to see if that makes a difference, but in general I like superfeet and would prefer to keep them. 
 

thoughts/suggestions?

[JBP 18]

What type of sock are you wearing? If it is cotton it is incredibly abrasive, especially when wet with sweat, even with the best fitting skates...blistering, as all on this forum know, is caused by movement of the foot in the boot. 

[Westside 232]

Darn tough ultra thin wool socks. Been wearing them for years without issue. Maybe the boots have loosened up after a half season of use and I need to rebake them tighter? ie, a more compressed wrap in the forefoot and heel 

[Westside 232]

Had two games this weekend and swapped super feet carbons with super feet comfort. No issues with rubbing or blisters. So…. Maybe the carbons push your arch up a bit higher than the comforts? Either way, I’m hopeful swapping insoles was the simple fix I was after

[VegasHockey 1280]

15 hours ago, Westside said:

Had two games this weekend and swapped super feet carbons with super feet comfort. No issues with rubbing or blisters. So…. Maybe the carbons push your arch up a bit higher than the comforts? Either way, I’m hopeful swapping insoles was the simple fix I was after

The carbon does push your arch up higher and is stiffer. T

[VegasHockey 1280]

15 hours ago, Westside said:

Had two games this weekend and swapped super feet carbons with super feet comfort. No issues with rubbing or blisters. So…. Maybe the carbons push your arch up a bit higher than the comforts? Either way, I’m hopeful swapping insoles was the simple fix I was after

The Carbon do push your arch up higher, and they are stiffer.

The Comfort have a more flexible arch allowing the insole to collapse slightly when under pressure. 

We sell significantly more Comfort insoles than Carbon insoles.

[Ranger-#8 1]

Have you guys noticed low inventory right now? Driving up to Minneapolis this week and struggling to find a shop with size 7 or 7.5 TF9s for me to try on. 

[LauraPalmer 4]

11 minutes ago, Ranger-#8 said:

Have you guys noticed low inventory right now? Driving up to Minneapolis this week and struggling to find a shop with size 7 or 7.5 TF9s for me to try on. 

I bought skates a few weeks ago in Minneapolis and had a hard time finding sizing in general, I think there was a single pair ofr True's in my size between 3 stores (Ended up with Bauer supremes). 

Pure hockey locations might have them, I think Westwood in Apple Valley had some as well (obviously call).

 

 

[VegasHockey 1280]

6 hours ago, LauraPalmer said:

I bought skates a few weeks ago in Minneapolis and had a hard time finding sizing in general, I think there was a single pair ofr True's in my size between 3 stores (Ended up with Bauer supremes). 

Pure hockey locations might have them, I think Westwood in Apple Valley had some as well (obviously call).

 

 

"Damn Good Coffee!"- Cooper (Twin Peaks)

[krisdrum 233]

Anyone know of a shop that carries "spare" TF7/9 footbeds with the arch pieces and the screwdriver/quick change tool?  Just picked up a pair of barely used TF7 off SLS and they didn't come with any of the goodies.  Or should I reach out directly to True to see if I can purchase those items direct?

Edited January 21, 2022 by krisdrum

[Westside 232]

Might want to check SLS. With my first pair of TF9s I sold both of those things since I use superfeet and mounted Marsblade to the boots

Edited January 21, 2022 by Westside

[krisdrum 233]

Baked my TF7s yesterday.  Haven't skated them yet.  Putting them back on this morning left boot feels perfect, great heel lock, even pressure/contact over the entire foot.  Right foot feels a bit sloppy in the heel area.  I can raise my heel in the boot a bit.  I do have a larger "Bauer Bump" on my right heel and it has been a fit issue for me in the past.  I think it has to do mostly with reduced surface contact between my heel and the boot.  Maybe I need to find the sweet spot tying them up, but the heel lock was not nearly as good as the left foot at first try.  We did not do the "plastic wrap" method when molding.  Talked to the shop that did the bake and asked if re-baking the right boot using the wrap method would give better results.  His take was try skating in them a few times, but they usually get the same results with either the wrap or traditional lace all the way up method. 

I'm going to skate in them Thursday night and see how they feel.  Has anyone tried both methods, and found the wrap method provided better molding?  I know many of you have had good success with the wrap method.  My LHSs (I called several) all said they don't do the wrap method anymore unless specifically asked to.  Not sure if that is just a time saving approach or if the two methods really provide nearly identical results. 

[epstud74 24]

On 1/18/2022 at 5:04 PM, LauraPalmer said:

I bought skates a few weeks ago in Minneapolis and had a hard time finding sizing in general, I think there was a single pair ofr True's in my size between 3 stores (Ended up with Bauer supremes). 

Pure hockey locations might have them, I think Westwood in Apple Valley had some as well (obviously call).

 

 

At this point, I’d probably stick with Strauss Skate in St Paul. 

[flip12 714]

52 minutes ago, krisdrum said:

Baked my TF7s yesterday.  Haven't skated them yet.  Putting them back on this morning left boot feels perfect, great heel lock, even pressure/contact over the entire foot.  Right foot feels a bit sloppy in the heel area.  I can raise my heel in the boot a bit.  I do have a larger "Bauer Bump" on my right heel and it has been a fit issue for me in the past.  I think it has to do mostly with reduced surface contact between my heel and the boot.  Maybe I need to find the sweet spot tying them up, but the heel lock was not nearly as good as the left foot at first try.  We did not do the "plastic wrap" method when molding.  Talked to the shop that did the bake and asked if re-baking the right boot using the wrap method would give better results.  His take was try skating in them a few times, but they usually get the same results with either the wrap or traditional lace all the way up method. 

I'm going to skate in them Thursday night and see how they feel.  Has anyone tried both methods, and found the wrap method provided better molding?  I know many of you have had good success with the wrap method.  My LHSs (I called several) all said they don't do the wrap method anymore unless specifically asked to.  Not sure if that is just a time saving approach or if the two methods really provide nearly identical results. 

Did you kick your heel back in them? I’ve found you really have to aggressively sink your heel back in the pocket when molding SVH boots, as they’re so deep in the heel. It really snugly holds the top of your heel bone if you get it right.

Edited January 26, 2022 by flip12

[krisdrum 233]

15 minutes ago, flip12 said:

Did you kick your heel back in them? I’ve found you really have to aggressively sink your heel back in the pocket when molding SVH boots, as they’re so deep in the heel. It really snugly holds the top of your heel bone if you get it right.

I did.  Although I did it after they were already tied up, not before tying. 

[Sniper9 529]

On 1/26/2022 at 9:02 AM, krisdrum said:

I did.  Although I did it after they were already tied up, not before tying. 

Then you did it wrong

[Sniper9 529]

On 1/26/2022 at 7:52 AM, krisdrum said:

Baked my TF7s yesterday.  Haven't skated them yet.  Putting them back on this morning left boot feels perfect, great heel lock, even pressure/contact over the entire foot.  Right foot feels a bit sloppy in the heel area.  I can raise my heel in the boot a bit.  I do have a larger "Bauer Bump" on my right heel and it has been a fit issue for me in the past.  I think it has to do mostly with reduced surface contact between my heel and the boot.  Maybe I need to find the sweet spot tying them up, but the heel lock was not nearly as good as the left foot at first try.  We did not do the "plastic wrap" method when molding.  Talked to the shop that did the bake and asked if re-baking the right boot using the wrap method would give better results.  His take was try skating in them a few times, but they usually get the same results with either the wrap or traditional lace all the way up method. 

I'm going to skate in them Thursday night and see how they feel.  Has anyone tried both methods, and found the wrap method provided better molding?  I know many of you have had good success with the wrap method.  My LHSs (I called several) all said they don't do the wrap method anymore unless specifically asked to.  Not sure if that is just a time saving approach or if the two methods really provide nearly identical results. 

The wrap method makes a huge diff. Night and day. Whether you need it or not is a different story. 

[krisdrum 233]

1 minute ago, Sniper9 said:

Then you did it wrong

Guy helping me didn't even give me a chance to tap the heel back before tying.  Another shop I've been to also does the heel tap after tying, but they do it as an assisted "heel drop" (usually 2-3 times), which they seem to swear by and the shop is one of the best in the area.  So process should be.  Foot in boot, tap heel back, tie up?  Always?