Buzz_LightBeer

I don’t know the thresholds for their customs, but NHL player customs are migrating to be made in Thailand, your retail customs may be the same. If that’s an important aspect for you.

you may consider a more supple insole in your current goalie skates for comfort otherwise a middle to lower-middle end player skate might be softer and easier on the feet for standing. you could have a flatter profile done to the blades to give the stability you're accustomed to in goalie skates.

Someone familiar with heating and a boot stretcher should be able to help you. Even if there is a small fee it’s well worth it.

I’ve had a few brands of coated steel and in my experience at least, they tend to go dull unexpectedly and all of the sudden. In Randow spots all over. not gradually like a stainless would. Maybe the intensity of the league matters too, I do t think they take kindly to contact with boards, other blades, etc

It’s about exactly this much different. TC6 has white tape

I have both and CCm is slightly lower

First time the build code was clearly legible, I guess was my point

https://sidelineswap.com/gear/hockey/sticks/9228470-warrior-new-novium-pro-w28m-75-flex-left-hand-pro-stock-stick-item-tdnvp First time I've seen a legitimate Novium Pro build in a Pro stick, T8NVMP

It may be available in the pro bank, but it isnt listed as an offering in the 2025 catalog

It's less a matter of flattening the blade as it is removing the factory polish or coating. New blades come very inconsistent on the bottom, but the coating really gums up a sharpening wheel. Removing that first layer with a mostly flat hollow makes the first sharpen and every subsequent one easier. If you try to do a new cut with a normal hollow, at least with a traditional sharpening wheel, you heat the steel and do a number on the wheel unnecessarily. Plus it takes twice the time. I imagine the same principle applies with these sharpening rings. Also, I would put out there that a "flat" ring and say a 1 1/2" hollow are reasonably similar at those widths, you could accomplish the same with either

I would disagree with your one commenter, the big silver wheel should move the diamond in and out (closer to or further from) the grinding wheel horizontally.

I did iterations of the “retail custom” MIC skates in the FT2, FT4 and FT6, had great experiences with all three. The fit and customization was great. As long as you’re committing to that, definitely find the most reputable shop close to you, and you should do fine.

https://sidelineswap.com/gear/hockey/skates/8621094-true-pro-custom-size-9-5?referral_code=Zydo441 would love to make a deal here, price is negotiable.

Older Warrior intermediates in the dynasty line ran narrow as well and I believe they went up to 14”

If you like wider, find some Fischer's, good deal quality glove, very similar to old 4 roll TPS

It’s more likely To crack than fail completely. Go ahead and skate on them

Not that I’ve had any success with. I’ve tried to salvage a few with no luck

Heated the ever loving eff out of it and chiseled it out with a flathead screwdriver. Not a very graceful process. Just make sure you don’t knock it down the inside of the shaft.

People will probably disagree with me but as you said, I’d play around with profiles long before I’d do a holder swap. There isn’t enough difference in size or amount of steel on the ice at any given time to justify it imo. a good profiler could look at your current blades, get a general idea of the balance point and ice contact you like and get you something similar to what you’ve been using. it will likely take longer to adjust to the boots than the blades anyway.

Stock I’d say Aero, otherwise CP94 or X844 Pro are probably close

Dumb question perhaps but did you hold one up to that other steel to see where the discrepancy lies?

Rock'n Green is a great soak for smelly gear https://rockingreen.com/collections/active-wear-detergent/products/platinum-active-wear-two-pack Gear Halo pods are a must for skates/bag https://www.amazon.com/Gearhalo-Sports-Deodorizer-Pods-Stops/dp/B071XWM1JH/ref=asc_df_B071XWM1JH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693295483335&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2094030929703982636&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018838&hvtargid=pla-493626010011&psc=1&mcid=8f4adae2dad133b69a158a6ab12060eb&gad_source=1 These two sprays are good for inbetween skates, one hockey specific, one not https://www.icewarehouse.com/Beeks_Reek_Out_Pro/descpage-RO32.html?_gl=1*5rtjc*_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwvvmzBhA2EiwAtHVrb2L3bgDP_LZ3ow8mWLBq3CCkmwQdCjusQQXk8KtiLL49-Qs3skiVtBoCynEQAvD_BwE https://www.seventhgeneration.com/disinfectant-spray-eucalyptus-spearmint-thyme-scent

If one is a 6.5 Wide it might have 263 holders, or if they're pro skates, they might have come from the custom department with 263, even 272 i suppose

Some one who knows what they’re doing could pretty well eyeball and put a straight edge on the blades to make sure they aren’t bent. If all they’re doing is replacing factory rivets and not drilling new holes it should be pretty straightforward.

The pictures make it look more similar to a P46 than a W28