Westside

Not upset, simply stating that you didn't seem to be listening to feedback anyone was giving you. Your (now edited) post also had you saying you were going to size UP to get more space between your toes and the cap of boot rather than size DOWN which is what myself and others had recommended. Same goes for disregarding how substantial the fit of a True boot changes when baked and how malleable they become

I don’t think you’re reading my response correctly. You claimed that your toes were ‘almost touching the cap’ which means they weren’t. This was BEFORE baking them as you also stated. Read any comprehensive write up on fitting True skates and you’ll see that they all say your toes should be pushed pretty hard against the toe cap before baking. Once they are baked, they open up and your toes should no longer be against the toe cap, but will fit how you’re describing them now. But hey, it’s your money. Not sure why you bother asking for advice if you disregard it

I thought it started with the Yotes, specifically Bauer 4500 helmets, because they couldn’t get the color so the team had to spray paint it. Maybe that was BS, but when they first launched the desert alts all other helmets were glossy. Honestly not sure how I feel about it. On one hand, matte helmets don’t show finger prints or scratches which would be a huge plus for us players and I’d imagine EQM. On the other hand, they just look off… https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/carson-soucy-of-the-vancouver-canucks-flashes-a-smile-news-photo/1940920539 Lokks like uni watch made a post about this topic too if you zoom in on Hughes’ Bauer helmet (4th in the carousel) it is definitely a matte vinyl wrap on a glossy helmet https://uni-watch.com/2023/11/21/are-matte-helmets-about-to-become-an-nhl-trend/

If your toes aren’t even touching the cap, the skates are way too big. Your skates should be hard against the cap before baking. They open up about a 1/2 size after baking. Based on what you wrote, you should try a size 6W

“G8RSkin significantly reduces these peak acceleration values“ Is it because wearing it keeps you from moving at all since you’ll be on the bench for looking like such a fool?

Saw that description in the email PSHS sent out last month. Definitely plan on trying it out on my next order. I know I could ‘learn’ to keep other curves down but I have zero issue getting height off a P88

Are there any new Sprung components being made? I thought Thom simply bought up all the supply and that was it. Didn't realize he was still producing components

FB adjacent… https://www.instagram.com/p/C1z9OqnyHE-/?igsh=ZWMyNDBlOTQyNg==

Couldn’t find the Sprung thread and figured the chassis was mentioned in this one so it seemed appropriate. Agreed about potential pricing although at least Sprung chassis have an actual benefit unlike what Labeda is trying to do. Components look minimal and I thought I recalled magnesium being discussed after aluminum for the material so it’ll be interesting to see what they go with and how how much it weighs

7 years later and could there finally be light at the end of the tunnel!!?! https://www.facebook.com/100064129385552/posts/758794172934889/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v

Didn’t have extra shrink wrap in the house and didn’t want to go out. Figured this way was also a bit more environmentally friendly and worked exactly how I needed it to

Watching the Winter Classic and rebaked the boots using the convection setting on my oven (never used that before) and used thick neoprene strap from when I had shoulder surgery for the wrap. DEFINITELY got a tighter wrap using this method including around the ankle. Will try to find time this week to test them out on the ice, but I’m crossing my fingers I may have finally got them dialed in. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions!

Definitely outside of any return window. I’ve baked a number of True skates at home and did the same with these initially but perhaps I need to leave them in a bit longer so the become a bit more pliable

Wasn’t expecting that tight of a wrap, just looking to see if it was possible to get a better wrap than i currently have Might try to make the trek to the local pure hockey next week and ask to use their oven

Would you please share your baking settings? I don’t recall what I used with these, but I probably went with True baking instructions since that’s what I’m used to doing at home

The measurement results are the same as I’ve shown in the other photos. Approximately 1/4” taller with the FT6

I would agree with that. Apart from the Tendon guard, I don’t notice any significant difference between the TF and Cat as far as flex is concerned. I had both skates set up the same (tongue, insole, holders, runners)

The boot is a Regular fit. Can’t squeeze my foot into a tapered boot. No heel lift, toes brush the cap, minimal negative space around my feet. It’s worth noting the laces are almost completely undone and the tongue is pulled way out. Only area that is ‘wide’ is the ankle. The facing of the True boot may appear more snug but it doesn’t move whereas the CCM facing still flexes when I tighten the laces. Edit, undid the laces on the FT6 to hopefully show the volume a little bit better. Pencil test across the top of my foot and the pen just misses my foot. Same applies to higher up my foot where my ankle flexes. In my eyes, it’s only the upper ankle area where it flares out that is too big. My foot is hugged everywhere else in the boot

I can drop an eyelet with the Trues no problem if I want to. I normally don’t, but when I do it’s not an issue. I didn’t wrap the Cats as much as I did with any of my TF boots. The TFs were really tight and I had to twist like crazy to get them on/off. Decided to make it a bit more relaxed with the Cats, so I don’t have to twist my foot near as much

Reference the photo above to see where the eyelets fall. 9.5-ish vs 9.25-ish CCM vs True so the CCM comes up higher

FT6 Pro: 10 3/16" so my 0.25" guesstimate was just about spot on Catalyst Pro: 10" on the dot from the floor to the top edge of the cuff The spot heating/wrapping idea was what I had planned to do next. Like I said, I did this method previously although I baked the entire skate. Might ask the help of a friend to try and coax the cuff in a bit more. I think your last comment is probably most accurate and what I was expecting. Just figured there are so many players here that use multiple skates, including True, that I figured someone would have experience with it.

The Cat Pros are actually slightly taller than the FT6 Pros (approximately 1/4"). Both have the exact same holders and steel so this height difference in boot is as apples to apples as you can get. The FT6 rear heel/achilles area drops down substantially more compared to the Catalyst boot, but that shouldn't have any relevance to the conversation here.

I've been skating in Trues for the last 3, almost 4 years. Before that I was skating in a few different models of Bauer for about a decade. The Trues make my feet feel more connected to the ice than anything I've ever skated in and made leaning on my outside edges extremely easy. A few months back I picked up a pair of heavily discounted FT6 Pros just because. The first few skates on them were terrible because they felt so sloppy. Tried a few different lacing techniques, rebaked them, and they feel solid now. However, the ankle area is still very wide, requires me to crank on the laces, and still outside edge work is not as smooth as with the Trues. Now, I'd imagine this is probably more my technique (or lack thereof), but does anyone have any experience, or is it even possible to get CCM boots to wrap more tightly like True boots? I've done the Saran Wrap method, but as you can see in the below photo, the opening is still extremely wide. The True opening isn't even as tight/narrow as my last pair of Trues, yet I can tie them barely snug and not have any problems. I have grown to really enjoy True skates, but am on my 3rd pair due to cracks so I'm just looking toward the future which is why I am hoping to make these FT6s work. I do not play at a competitive enough level that should require me to replace skates every year.

I bought this material in two sizes for shoulder pad strap replacement. It’s the exact same looking/feeling material CCM used for the CLs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABTQ80A?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title To make it look more original, I used a seam ripper to take off the original end pieces and then sewed them back onto the straps. Here’ an example of the front and back of a pair of CL shoulder straps that go along your ribs

Any reason you don't simply want to replace the straps? I've done this on shoulder/elbow pads in the past when they're in great condition overall and it's only the elastic that's worn out. If you want new, agree with others about checking out the Tacks line