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Sniper9

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Everything posted by Sniper9

  1. Diy is just do it yourself. I make my own volume reducing foams for the toebox. I just use sheets of Eva foam from the craft or dollar store until I get the thickness I like. I build the thickness with the Eva foam but the part that would touch my toes I put a layer of dollar store memory foam shoe insoles so it's softer. I attach them to the toebox using stick on Velcro so it's removable and replaceable. I hate negative space in the toebox. This helps keep my toes and forefoot flat.
  2. Question regarding the facing where the eyelet tore through. How much composite is actually there holding the eyelet? I'd assume if the facing was made out of the same thermoplastic material as the boot, it would take a lot of effort to deform that material. Id imagine even if you drilled a hole in the material and laced through it with no eyelet it'll be able to hold up? Or is the facing a different/more flexible type of material?
  3. Just wanted to update this. I recently got Machs and it seems this is a "normal" issue with these skates. I started seeing this bit of stretch in the facing for used machs online and even in person with a buddies. Got me wondering. So when I got my brand new machs that weren't even tried on by anyone, the eyelets didn't look like this and we're in mint condition. I put them on and laced them fairly tight WITHOUT baking and it already created this small facing stretch around some of the top 3-4 eyelets. I baked them after tying at about 70% and pulling outwards only and finished with shrink wrap to snug everything up. So it must be the rubbery material of the facing that stretches when tension is placed on the eyelets, is my guess and doesn't mean the actual thermoformable plastic is stretched. I haven't seen one used mach skate online without at least a couple of the eyelets with this issue. Just search them on eBay and you'll see some closeup pics. What did you end up doing Op?
  4. I never had issues switching between Supremes, as1s, and trues. I found the biggest adjustment was the feel and flex of the boot between the different skates vs how my edges and steel were. I always used the same profile though. The thing about trues is that you will never feel nimble in them. They are for comfort and their one piece boots allows for better edge feel. If you're looking for a lighter more agile skate, it won't be in a true skate. As for lace bite. Try not tightening the laces so much. Or skip the top eyelet, or skip the eyelet in the area where you're getting the pinch so that area doesn't have so much pressure. Also the cat 7 has a felt tongue. The felt tongue didn't go well for me for my catalyst pros. I've always used felt even with my true tf customs. But with the catalyst pro I had to use their molded tongue and that helped solve the pinching issue for me. Lastly, doesn't true offer the 30 day money back fit guarantee?
  5. Thanks for the catalogue. How is that rivet replaceable for the t guard when it's covered up? I stand corrected with regards to looks. The 9x4 looks pretty good. The picture I saw were for the 7x4. I think the blue looks hideous imo. Not a fan of colors around any eyelets/facing. Looks tacky to me. So what's going on with the "pro" being a custom tailored fit. What's going to be the custom tailored for the catalyst? Same as the 9x4 but same process at the current catalyst pro?
  6. I never argued those points. Our disagreement was on fit and comfort and mold ability
  7. My cat pros are a year old and I play 1-2x a week. I see a small crack on one of the heels and um keeping an eye on it. I'm not sure if it's something that just fails on its own form urinal wear or from repetitive contact like the odd slash, puck, or even hitting your heels against something on the bench. It seems totally random how it happens. True addressed this issue with the cat pros by adding an additional layer of carbon to the stock shell. Hopefully it is addressed with the hzrdus line but I think it's too early to tell as it's just been released and not sure how many they've actually sold to get a good sample size. I'm not sure if anyone on this forum has even pulled the trigger on the hzrdus. As for me sadly, it looks like I'm done with true skates after my current pair. Combination of durability issues and poor esthetics (I saw leaked pics of the new catalyst skates 🤮) has really put me off.
  8. The upper half/top is just plastic. As in the top. Any area that encompasses your feet and edges of your toes has carbon.
  9. Is it their Cali location that's only"open"
  10. If you're gonna pull the trigger on an expensive skate don't narrow it down. To two models before even trying them on. Btw ccm stopped making ribcore. At least with pure hockey you have a good return policy if you get it from there.
  11. The construction of the entire true boot is carbon fiber. This means the entire toe and forefoot area as well. In one piece. The toe cap simple slides over top. You can also see for yourself that the toecap is a flexible plastic on the sides and is only thicker on the front and top for obvious reasons. It's up to you what you want to do but I think we're beating a dead horse by telling you that making a decision without actually baking isn't a completely informed one. You might be happy with 6.5w but you'll never know for sure whether the 6w fits even better if it was fully baked and broken in. I get at the retail level you have to compromise some fit issues to accommodate others.. but your fit issues, I personally believe you can achieve the "perfect" fit of toes brushes and not have width issues. My feet are like yours were the toes are the widest part which is why I have a hell of a hard time finding retail skates that fit properly. Either the toe cap area is crammed or boot is too big overall.
  12. He's wrong. The width does change after a bake. The toe cap is literally a plastic shell/sleeve (flexible too) that covers the front part of the one piece boots which is also moldable. True skates don't have a junction between the toecap and boot which also benefits being able to punch out pretty much anywhere on the boot. If you look up how true skates are made you'll see what I mean.
  13. I have three sets of speed plate 1.0 and one of the 2.0. Fwiw, the size 7 and 6.5 speedplates are the same but you just trim them to the 6.5 length. But I'm with you, I prefer the 1.0 because I like the rigidity. The profile of the 2.0 didn't bother me but the arch support wasn't as firm as the 1.0. I hope Bauer keeps up with the speed plate. I know the 2.0 is still floating around and even in one of their more recent catalogues.
  14. Glad to hear. I actually went out and took my own advice trying all diff fits and sizes and have a couple hyperlite 2 s coming in the mail in diff sizes and fits. I think ultimately the best fit for me is going to be half a size down from what I've been wearing for years and a fit 3 with Bauer. Never thought I would wear any skate in the max volume fit but goes to show you just need to try on everything as sizing is never consistent even within the same brand and model. Btw, how much room is there when you push on the speedplates inside your boot? If it's only a few mms it's not an issue as when you tie the skates, the actual insole will be locked in. Even stock footbed will have about 1-2mm play.
  15. Ya noticed this too. Pretty annoying having to try on so many models and fits again.
  16. I don't understand how you are that far off the superfeet but when you're on the stock insoles you completely cover the ends. Also keep in mind that even if a certain model skate is fitted properly for you, it could be that it just doesn't work for your feet. Whether or be the height of the boot, where the ankle pads are, stiffness, etc. Sometimes it can get expensive trying different skates but hopefully your issue is just poor sizing.
  17. I'm a shoe size 9. Been wearing 7 forever but recently tried 6.5 just bc. And although my toes did push up against the toe cap when standing straight (vs brushing) it didn't feel all that uncomfortable. 6.5 fit 3 gave me a bit more length and that actually felt good. But like people have mentioned every foot is diff. I'm in between a fit 1 and 2 in siZe 7 and my right foot is a 6.5. So me finding a happy medium with retail skates have been a challenge but I think ultimately I'm a 6.5 fit 3 with Bauer. As for you trying other skates being too tight. Being tight has nothing to do with length but more to do with depth and width. Look at my example, I actually sized down lengthwise to get a width that fit me. As for you, if 9.5 is what allows you get fit Inna skate that isn't too tight all around, you should look into going down half a size and up one in the width department (unless your already in a wide boot). Lastly, I pronate with my right foot and the one thing that helped a lot without me tinkering with anything is using Bauer speedplates. They are firm and hard and don't give. I mold them standing up so my arches aren't collapsed. This way when I do put weight on my right foot the speed plate holds it's arch and prevent my foot from rolling over inside the boot. It's been great for me. I also did a lot of exercises to reduce my pronation as well. But as hills said. Stand on your insoles and take a picture. Your biggest toe should completely cover the tip of the insole, otherwise skates are too big.
  18. My question regarding height was moreso how the edge of the cuff depending on the skate height can dig into the outside of my leg and not so much the technical aspect sof the ankle padding itself.
  19. After asking the question, I actually went out and measured both the hyperlites 2 and machs in store. They are both 6" from the bottom of the boot to the cuff. Ccm ft6 pros are the same as well, and true hzrdus more or less in that range give or take a couple mm.
  20. Is your ankle bone hitting the eyelets or is it just rubbing against the liner? Either way it could be from the to vue sliding outwards which is likely due to a pronation issue you have. When you put weight on your feet does your arches collapse and your foot kind of roll inwards? If so then, in a perfect world would need to fix your probation issue which van be a lot of dedication and time. I'll let @Vet88 chime in all about pronation. But you can also search pronation and see his very useful posts. You never had any of these issues with your previous skates? Could be also due to how stiff modern skates are now vs what you had and it's only exposing your pronation issue. In the short term you can a little tongue loop to keep the tongue centered and that might help with the inner ankle rubbing but that seems like a bandaid resolution. But if it works it's better than nothing for now. Another bandaid solution would be to get gel pads for your ankles.
  21. Are the vapors generally higher or lower cut than the Supremes. In this case, are the hyperlites higher or lower cut than the machs?
  22. Doesn't it have a significant amount more padding as well.
  23. I don't think less than a mm of masking tape will affect the fit and even if it does affect how your skates feel, you can always just add a thin layer of whatever you want to fill in that space. Ie. Thin piece of plastic, foam etc. Personally I don't think it'll affect the feel.
  24. It's masking tape. And its how they make the mold around the last I guess. But you'd think they could remove that after the boot is casted and cured but who knows what goes on in the heads of these people who work at True.... To answer your question it isn't a cause for concern but like you said it does soak up sweat and is the cause for rusted out rivers imo. Up to you whether you want to remove it all or not.
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