Sniper9

Well the thing about customs is that right now you still don't know what tongue works for you. Potentially none would and then you're out of money on customs. At least with these, the worst case is you spend money one or two sets of tongues and it doesn't work out and you return the skates because true has their fit guarantee. Obviously the first tongue to try would be their traditional felt tongue or their molded tongue that has no t guard. You can always look on marketplace or sideline for them. Or, pure hockey or another shop near you may have tongues in stock to try. I know my LHS do have them in stock and allow you to try them with your skates.

Try dropping the top eyelet. When I wore trues I had to drop the top eyelet to get proper flexion. With true skates instead of rebaking the whole skate it's best to just use a heat gun and spot heat the problem area.

Which is kinda bunk. I don't really care because I have a sparx and it was free with the blade purchase. But if I paid for brand new steel and paid for profiling and sharpening as well I would be upset.

And they supply NHL and other pro teams too. So weird. Maybe it's just for the convenience of being able to order bulk and getting them profiled. Trainers might re sharpen them. I also am not a fan of the way the skatescribe sharpens the skates. Leaves a scale like finish in the hollow. But with that said their "like new" pro stock steel with free profile and sharpen is a good deal regardless of uneven edges lol.

The last two blades I got from tydan came back with quite uneven edges. Just barely staying in the green zone on my sparx edge checker. So ya.. even that machine isn't always perfect.

I frikking knew it! I've always felt on my sparx that going with my 1/2" hollow was equivalent to my local pro shop's sharpenings 9/16 or even closer to a 5/8. I thought I was doing something wrong with deburring but I always felt this way. I also noticed with the fingernail test that the edges for the sparx feels smoother and less "crisp." I can run my fingers along my sparx sharpen and not really worry about getting cut but with a hand sharpen I would be cautious. I'm glad this proved what I felt all along. I still love my sparx though and it just means I have to remember to ask for a 9/16 or even a 5/8 if I'm ever get it manually done.

Kind of makes sense that the dlc coating is so hard it can be brittle almost in some circumstances.. the actual steel on bladetech is supposed to be one of the hardest out there too so maybe that's something....

Ya im aware of tydan and their good deals on prostock but they only have mainly Bauer steel for that. They must have something going on with Bauer bc they don't sell any other steel for Bauer skates such as jrz or blade tech but they carry those brands for other skates like true and CCM

Thanks for the update. I wonder what's going on with the set I have. Maybe not enough passes with the sparx since the steel is so hard. A bit of a pain though since I didn't have any issues with the fly /pulse ti steel on the sparx.

Ya I'm thinking of getting rid of these. Something is to with the edges as they come seem to hold very well. The steel is strong in that they didn't have nicks etc but I'm finding random logs of edges twice now after fresh sharpenings. This along with my sparx not liking the steel. Might just get the jrz pro black

I think I'm going through this right now. I ordered mine online (not from bladetech) had had them profiled and sharpened. When I got them I ended up re doing the hollow from 1/2 to 9/16 on my sparx because 1/2 was too deep. I ensured it was deburred and I also did the finger nail test to make sure there was an actual edge. I skated on it once but after, I noticed an inch near the rear of one skate had no edge. You can't visibly see any damage but that area doesn't shave off any fingernail at all. I assumed okay maybe I stepped on something and resharpened again with 3 passes on the sparx. Deburred fingernail rest along the entire blade and checked for level edges. All was good. This second sharpening lasted two Ice times before I noticed another approx one inch section on a different part of the steel with a dull edge. I don't know what's going on. But if I'm required to sharpen these every 2 skates that defeats the whole purpose of having these.

Don't the low to mid tier lines still use D and E?

No. It's been so long and different lasts used to make the boots. Even a fit 1 and 2 Mach changed from the ultrasonics fit 1 and 2 (in the toe box), and these are just 2 years apart.

I've seen quite a bit of issues with their goalie gear too. But maybe that stuff is kind of standard across all major brands

News flash. True products are already mediocre slop.

The wrong size or improper seating of the rivets could have been the issue which is simple to fix. But I question why a copper rivet was used on the second from the toe there.... Still a possibility that a couple holes were stretched. Either way, you'll find out if it's an issue once you get it back from your buddy. If it's simply a rivet size or seating issue it should be fine now.

After being on these blades for a few ice times now, I kind of question whether I like them. They do have a lot of bite and it's gotten me to mess with different hollows. It also feels that even though the bite is there, I don't feel as confident with the edges, as if it could give out it I'm turning hard. Could be my skating technique and just adjusting to the new feel of the steel but it's definitely something I've noticed. Although I get how a super hard steel is beneficial for edge retention and less sharpenings, i find I have to do more passes on my sparx to achieve a proper edge, which will probably kill the life of the ring quicker. That and the harder steel may have more of a negative affect on ring life than a softer steel. That said, if I sharpen it less overall it may not make a difference at all. What's odd is I read a lot to people saying how well it sharpens in the sparx and deburring is a cinch but I actually find deburring the Bauer TI steel much easier and faster. With the TI I can simply use the gummy hone. With the bladetech I need to use a regular stone at a slight angle then finish with a gummy to "polish" off the area honed. As a home sharpener I may switch back to my TI steel. If I didn't have a sparx and had my pro shop sharpen my skates I would probably stick to the bladetech.

what's the plan now? It's really a shame. True seems to be completely hit or miss.

Sorry I read your post wrong and thought you said the steel had side to side movement. What could have happened was whoever fixed your rivets initially could have stretched the holes where the rivet goes in when removing the old rivets (it happens) which is why you can move it side to side but it's still snug in terms of not having a gap and falling out. The only real way to fix the stretched holes is to remove the holders fill them with epoxy and re drill the holes. I would bring it back to the shop that did it to see what they say. I'm only guessing from your description

The holder channels holding the blades are loose and obviously you need new rivets. Might as well swap the holder since half the rivets are loose too. Most places will do the labor free if you get the holders from them. I'd swap the other side too because why not. That one skate could've taken a puck at some point which caused both the rivets to loosen and the channel of the holder to warp a bit.

You should only change one variable at a time. If you're trying a new profile you should keep the same sharpening you had prior and then adjust from there if needed. And vice versa. Profiles can change how edges feel for sure. Also there's always going to be a transition period when you go to and from inlines.

I just got a set of bladetech dlc and I'm impressed by the quality of the steel. It is very hard and has great bite and glide. I have used step blacksteel in the past for many years but switched to pulse ti bc I went from true skates to Bauer machs last year. The pulse ti were nice but they didn't hold an edge that well. They had good glide but lacked the bite other dlc coatings and other top brands provide. For example, I was skating on 1/2 hollow on my sparx for the pulse ti and it felt more like a 9/16. I initially sharpened the bladetech to 1/2 and there was way too much bite. I then went down to 9/16 and it was much better but it still felt like there was more bite than my pulse ti with the 1/2. I'm going to try a 5/8 on the bladetech and see how that goes. The last time I skated on 5/8 was about 8 years ago and it was on a set of ss tydan blades and I was sliding all over the place lol. I'm only 160 lbs. But I feel with the amount of bite and edge retention the bladetech dlc has, I may be able to finally be part of the 5/8 club. The only thing I'm watching out for is the durability of the dlc coating. I already noticed the areas that insert into the holder has some chipping of the coating. Not sure if this is normal as I do see this a lot for used steel online for different brands like step as well.

I don't think anyone can tell you the exact numbers of a lie by eyeballing it lol.

Wonder why they decided to launch another catalyst line a year after the 9x4

I think it's just your perception of how it should fit then. All my helmets have been medium and I've never had any issues with the CCM visor and spacers fitting properly with NO pull at all, but the helmets I've used have been ccm and warrior, not Bauer. Have you tried a size small helmet? Maybe you're in between sizes and the smallest temple pull makes the helmet a bit loose or at least looser than you personally like. Some pull in the temples shouldn't make or break the fit. You should consider the warrior alpha helmets since the adjustment is like a bike helmet with three boa adjustment system. Nothing to do with front back or side to side. It's a full all around adjustment. Like you said in the other post just get nylon washers and longer screws. Not the end of the world