Sniper9

I have three sets of speed plate 1.0 and one of the 2.0. Fwiw, the size 7 and 6.5 speedplates are the same but you just trim them to the 6.5 length. But I'm with you, I prefer the 1.0 because I like the rigidity. The profile of the 2.0 didn't bother me but the arch support wasn't as firm as the 1.0. I hope Bauer keeps up with the speed plate. I know the 2.0 is still floating around and even in one of their more recent catalogues.

Glad to hear. I actually went out and took my own advice trying all diff fits and sizes and have a couple hyperlite 2 s coming in the mail in diff sizes and fits. I think ultimately the best fit for me is going to be half a size down from what I've been wearing for years and a fit 3 with Bauer. Never thought I would wear any skate in the max volume fit but goes to show you just need to try on everything as sizing is never consistent even within the same brand and model. Btw, how much room is there when you push on the speedplates inside your boot? If it's only a few mms it's not an issue as when you tie the skates, the actual insole will be locked in. Even stock footbed will have about 1-2mm play.

Ya noticed this too. Pretty annoying having to try on so many models and fits again.

I don't understand how you are that far off the superfeet but when you're on the stock insoles you completely cover the ends. Also keep in mind that even if a certain model skate is fitted properly for you, it could be that it just doesn't work for your feet. Whether or be the height of the boot, where the ankle pads are, stiffness, etc. Sometimes it can get expensive trying different skates but hopefully your issue is just poor sizing.

I'm a shoe size 9. Been wearing 7 forever but recently tried 6.5 just bc. And although my toes did push up against the toe cap when standing straight (vs brushing) it didn't feel all that uncomfortable. 6.5 fit 3 gave me a bit more length and that actually felt good. But like people have mentioned every foot is diff. I'm in between a fit 1 and 2 in siZe 7 and my right foot is a 6.5. So me finding a happy medium with retail skates have been a challenge but I think ultimately I'm a 6.5 fit 3 with Bauer. As for you trying other skates being too tight. Being tight has nothing to do with length but more to do with depth and width. Look at my example, I actually sized down lengthwise to get a width that fit me. As for you, if 9.5 is what allows you get fit Inna skate that isn't too tight all around, you should look into going down half a size and up one in the width department (unless your already in a wide boot). Lastly, I pronate with my right foot and the one thing that helped a lot without me tinkering with anything is using Bauer speedplates. They are firm and hard and don't give. I mold them standing up so my arches aren't collapsed. This way when I do put weight on my right foot the speed plate holds it's arch and prevent my foot from rolling over inside the boot. It's been great for me. I also did a lot of exercises to reduce my pronation as well. But as hills said. Stand on your insoles and take a picture. Your biggest toe should completely cover the tip of the insole, otherwise skates are too big.

My question regarding height was moreso how the edge of the cuff depending on the skate height can dig into the outside of my leg and not so much the technical aspect sof the ankle padding itself.

After asking the question, I actually went out and measured both the hyperlites 2 and machs in store. They are both 6" from the bottom of the boot to the cuff. Ccm ft6 pros are the same as well, and true hzrdus more or less in that range give or take a couple mm.

Is your ankle bone hitting the eyelets or is it just rubbing against the liner? Either way it could be from the to vue sliding outwards which is likely due to a pronation issue you have. When you put weight on your feet does your arches collapse and your foot kind of roll inwards? If so then, in a perfect world would need to fix your probation issue which van be a lot of dedication and time. I'll let @Vet88 chime in all about pronation. But you can also search pronation and see his very useful posts. You never had any of these issues with your previous skates? Could be also due to how stiff modern skates are now vs what you had and it's only exposing your pronation issue. In the short term you can a little tongue loop to keep the tongue centered and that might help with the inner ankle rubbing but that seems like a bandaid resolution. But if it works it's better than nothing for now. Another bandaid solution would be to get gel pads for your ankles.

Are the vapors generally higher or lower cut than the Supremes. In this case, are the hyperlites higher or lower cut than the machs?

Doesn't it have a significant amount more padding as well.

I don't think less than a mm of masking tape will affect the fit and even if it does affect how your skates feel, you can always just add a thin layer of whatever you want to fill in that space. Ie. Thin piece of plastic, foam etc. Personally I don't think it'll affect the feel.

It's masking tape. And its how they make the mold around the last I guess. But you'd think they could remove that after the boot is casted and cured but who knows what goes on in the heads of these people who work at True.... To answer your question it isn't a cause for concern but like you said it does soak up sweat and is the cause for rusted out rivers imo. Up to you whether you want to remove it all or not.

Thank you!

I just purchased a pair of pro stock Bauer 1x 2.0 skates online. Brand new. They are listed as 7d left and 6.75d right. Which is the perfect lengths for me. I know that the older fit system for Bauer the vapors were narrower than Supremes so the d in vapor was actually slightly narrowed than the d in supreme. My question is, for pro stock/custom Bauers, would this apply to their widths as well or do they use a diff last system where a "d" for custom vapor or supreme is pretty much a standard d width for both models? From what I saw in previous videos of custom Bauers, they use a high pressure machine to mold the quarter package around a last that was made for the custom order. Just curious as I wait for the order to arrive. In the old fit system I fit a supreme d pretty well width wise.

Sport chek actually has very good inventory online. And when they go on clearance due to being 2+ years old there's quite a decent selection for flex and curves. The most recent being the ft4 pro sticks. Was on sale for 199 since end of summer but recently went back to regular price and inventory is pretty much diminished.

Stock up on older models on clearance, find them on marketplace or SLS, pro stocks, team versions. That's the order I would go. That said pro stock specs are all over there place and you usually aren't getting the retail version if that's what you're looking for in terms of specs. Team versions are generally heavier although the most reason jetspeed ft+ SMU hovers around 409 grams which is really good.

You didn't have shrink wrap laying around. I would imagine shrink wrap would be the tightest wrap. I usually go to town when doing my trues. 12-15 revolutions of the shrink wrap per skate lol

Just came to my head but did you try doing the runners/lace lock loop method as well? It may not help you achieve more wrap per se but it'll def keep the laces tight especially during forward flexion.

I think his skates are beyond the warranty is I remember correctly as to when he got them

If you have a convection just use that. I've done many skates in mine and it's fine as long as you keep an eye on the temp. For trues I don't turn the oven off and flip them halfway. For Bauer ccm I'll turn it off once the target temp has reached but i tend to leave their skates in a couple mins longer bc their baking instructions are very modest.

If you went with true baking settings then it would've been pretty soft. Although the retail guidelines for true is only 6 mins at around 180 f. But that should be plenty for ccm skates. If their shells are anything like the as1 skates they get soft pretty fast and are very moldable, especially with a heat gun.

True boots are the stiffest out there. Even with the cats supposedly being their more flexible version I don't really find it much different than the tf customs I had. So add another variable to reasons why they ft6 pros feel much different around the ankle

Very interesting. I did always notice how I have to drop the top eyelet on true skates but don't with Bauer or ccm and if I did I felt my ankles were mangled lol. So it is definitely more than just boot height. Stiffness, wrap, etc. Just completely different boots. I know a lot of people that own trues who flare out the cuff so it doesn't wrap as much for ease of getting the skates on and off. So those people would theoretically be able to go from one skate to another without as much of an adjustment period since there's less of an aggressive wrap.

But when you actually use a tape measure from the base to the cuff edge what are the numbers? Why don't you try spot heat gunning the cuff area then shrink wrapping. I think a big difference is also the length of time true skates are baked. 10+ mins vs 5 mins tops for ccm. All that said, it could be just you need to adapt to the fit of the ft6 pro and accept that the cuff won't wrap as much as the trues. Every time I try skates on whether it be Bauer or ccm, I definitely noticed more flex and ankle instability but nothing to the point I didn't think I couldn't get used to after a few skates. I'm actually thinking of trying the ft6 pros as I don't want to go back to true due to their poor QC and durability.

Maybe try tying the machs with the runners loop. Google it if you don't know. I think that might solve some of your issues since it will restrict some flexion at some point in your range of motion since it essentially acts like a lace lock.