Sniper9

Order them with holders not attached and no holes drilled (or just tell them to drill holes for the marsbalde). I had them do that for my ccm SB holders. They drilled the holes specifically for the SB holders and kept the true holders off. I just ended up selling my true holders on sideline.

I'm assuming the tf7 would still have an adjustable tongue Wonder if they will make a retail goalie skate too.

Lizard skin fan here. I love the way the lizard skin feels. Adds some cushion and just the right amount of tack. My grip is about 6 inches so I can't get away with splitting the grip on half and end up wasting quite a bit.. I might make them shorter to get two sticks out of one as they are a bit pricey. Durability is decent but like others I also notice the edge part of the very top of the butt end starts to wear more.

I'm guessing retailers will let consumers try them on baked first before they buy since that's really the only way to experience them.

I have the qredge non pro. But from what I can tell with what I've read and also with their gloves, the pro version offers a touch more roomier fit.

Ya that's one thing I don't like about the retails. Well the only thing I don't like. It's nice that it's going to be quite a bit cheaper than customs and most people won't need a fully custom true boot since they are so thermoformable.

I'll have to confirm that the CCM skates are very very mouldable. In terms of pliability pretty much the same as true, and takes less heat / time when using a heat gun. The Bauer's still are no where near thermaformability vs the two mentioned.

Same. Me and a buddy ordered the chassis and wheels combo. Great price. Haven't been on roller blades in years!

Possibly. Mine have been baked quite a few times too. I'm also only 160-165 lbs

I haven't broken one speed plate and I use the 1.0. I think they fixed the brittle issue after they rolled them out and realized there was a defect.

U need a heat gun to spot heat it. But be careful. Go on YouTube and look up mlx skates and you'll find a few modification videos for the arch and I think heel as well. You'll get s good idea on how to spot heat the skates by looking at the mlx videos.

The increased heel pocket is to allow more forward bend. The further the heel sits in the pocket the more forward you are in terms of knee bend. I have a feeling it has to do with how you are scanned. If you are scanned with TOO much forward flex , then technically the heel pocket could be created too deep. I think this is where training their fitters/scanners properly is key and doesn't seem like true is really doing this. If u think about it if they create a last from a scan where the player is too flexed forward, Itll create a boot that doesn't resemble a players proper stance. Conversely if they create a boot off a scan where the player isn't flexed far enough it'll create a boot that's restrictive in the forward flex position and too neutral, causing a heel pocket that's too shallow and potentially restriction forward flex. When I first transitioned to from my old Bauer supreme one100s to the Trues it took me some adjustment in terms of how they fit. The Bauer's were pretty locked. The trues were more comfortable and I felt they performed better but I did feel like they were more roomier. Not sure if it's bc of the padding being thicker. But as the padding did pack slightly, it def felt more locked in. I do recommend a second bake after about a month or two of skating though after the padding settles. Either way if you aren't happy and believe there is a fit issue outside what I described, then you should bring it up, but if you are having a skate remade you should def have your feet rescanned to eliminate that aspect as being the problem. When you do your knee bend you really need to make sure your knees are centred over your feet and not leaning onward causing probation/flat foot, or to the outside causing supination / higher arch. Lastly your knees should not go past your toes during the bend.

I find The Bauer cut resistant socks actually the best in terms of grip so ya there's definitely something wrong. Maybe you should play with the tongue to see if it'll fix the toe box issue. All the toe boxes are the same as those aren't custom but they merely just go over the carbo. That is made for your foot... I mentioned before the for is quite different than other brands like Bauer any CCM and part of it is the way the heel fits. There's def more room in the Trues but it shouldn't be sloppy while skating. Did they rescan your foot for the remake?

Totally sucks. But did you try moving the tongue lower to remove more toebox space? For me that removed s significant amount of space but that only takes away the height not width. I found the clarino liner pretty slippery when wet. If you're using a really thin dri fit type sock that adds to the problem. When. I use regular Hanes cotton socks the trip is much better and slipping is pretty much non existent.

Probably double the price too lol. I have three gen 1 SPs and one gen 2 stocked up. Haven't had any issues with cracking with the Gen 1s so far so they should last me a little while

You shouldn't need stable socks for a custom skate otherwise they weren't made properly for you. It's been discussed in this thread regarding how the true skates may feel a bit more roomier in the heel as the pocket is deeper to allow a deeper knee bend. The clamp will only help is the heel pocket is too wide. Did u heat mould using the stretch wrap technique? If not, I would do that first as that method really eliminates every ounce of negative space.

+1 speedplates are the best insoles imo. Really locks the fit that much more. I even use them in my trues. And I can't imagine using anything else for retail skates.

I think it was s mistake to have made the holder taller and steel shorter just to save weight. Having steel that short really kills the potential to have them profiled more than once and really decreases the lifespan. Ya, they give you two hit that just means profiling two sets. If I'm gonna order another pair of Trues, I'd stick with the CCM holders anyways.

From the pics I've seen the black steel he had is def taller and not because it hasn't been profiled. U can see the blacksteel he has is slightly different in that the hole in the rear hook is even smaller.

Shouldn't be the speed plates. Did you try them on with the stick foot beds?

The wick liner actually looks nice. Might go that route next. Also nice to see that they raised the height on the steel. I wonder who is gonna be making steel from them here on in. I hope it's tydan..

🤮 I really hope those are retails.. actually. Regardless... Wtf

Why don't u just try doing it yourself. Chances are bc of the long bake times , the adhesives get loose/ melt a bit. It happens. So it may not necessarily be a qc thing as pre bake it could've been stuck pretty good. Honestly I wouldn't bother paying someone to do it and just get some flexible adhesive and do it myself. Or even loctite gel super glue. I know true used to recommend using the loctite super glue for liner issues.

Ya that's worse than I thought. The area on the upper cuff part. Is the stitching still in tact? If so you can just use loctite or similar product. Or even shoe glue. Something flexible is prob best. As for the rubber trim, looks like it wasn't laid properly and is almost lifting bc it should be stretched out more. Possibly Remove the tendon guard and shorten the strip and put the tendon guard back on... Which isn't as much work as it sounds. Interesting how it doesn't look like they used the bead of epoxy to seal the rubber and the carbon together.

Post pics