althoma1 574 Report post Posted October 29, 2015 We'll probably start seeing details sometime between mid-December and February and the skate will likely be released in May or June of 2016. That's not based on any hard facts, only previous skate releases.I've demoed the Supreme skates - they're good skates, but they don't have the same wrap and running shoe like feel of the Makos. I'm always open to demoing other skates, but unless I'm really blown away I could never see going back to a non-speed skate based skate like the Makos or VH. If your Makos 1's are wearing out I'd either try to hunt down a clearance pair in your size or wait until the Mako 2's drop in price sometime next year. If money is no object then you could also consider the custom VH route. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jared9356 39 Report post Posted October 29, 2015 We'll probably start seeing details sometime between mid-December and February and the skate will likely be released in May or June of 2016. That's not based on any hard facts, only previous skate releases.I've demoed the Supreme skates - they're good skates, but they don't have the same wrap and running shoe like feel of the Makos. I'm always open to demoing other skates, but unless I'm really blown away I could never see going back to a non-speed skate based skate like the Makos or VH. If your Makos 1's are wearing out I'd either try to hunt down a clearance pair in your size or wait until the Mako 2's drop in price sometime next year. If money is no object then you could also consider the custom VH route.The only reason I've never considered VH is that I have a very "normal" foot other than a slightly pronounced arch. If I had severe fit issues I'd definitely check them out. I got great wrap in ONE100s and ONE.9s. NXGs were horrid as far as heel lock and wrap. My big concerns in going back is the mobility and forward pitch. Injected lacing looks like it may provide more forward flex than traditional eyelet Bauers (?) but I wonder if it wraps as well as traditional eyelets. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mojo122 535 Report post Posted October 29, 2015 I made the switch from Mako to 1X and now MX3 smoothly. Having never skated in a Vapor boot I was eager to try out the 1X, but have transitioned back to Supreme which is a better fit for my foot type. Supreme is going to wrap better than the Vapor. From my experience the injected lacing system performs better than the traditional facing/eyelets, but I wouldn't say it provides more forward flex. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jared9356 39 Report post Posted October 29, 2015 I made the switch from Mako to 1X and now MX3 smoothly. Having never skated in a Vapor boot I was eager to try out the 1X, but have transitioned back to Supreme which is a better fit for my foot type. Supreme is going to wrap better than the Vapor. From my experience the injected lacing system performs better than the traditional facing/eyelets, but I wouldn't say it provides more forward flex.I enjoyed the Supremes until the NXG. I attribute a lot of that to the thin tongue. Caused metatarsal pain and the lack of thickness made a 10.5D feel a half size to big. I'm very interested in the 1X because of the Speedplate and low volume. I know better than to judge a skate by just having tried it on, but APX 2s were the most comfortable skate I've tried on. How drastic is the difference in forward pitch between the CXN and Lightspeed? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mojo122 535 Report post Posted October 29, 2015 I had my steel profiled with a forward pitch so I didn't notice a difference. You can do that or add a 3mm heel lift if you're looking to maintain the forward pitch of the CXN. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albert1754 0 Report post Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) After lurking on this topic for a long time I finally went to purchase a pair. I normally wear 7.5D Bauer Nexus so tried that size first (Mako M8) after baking. They were super super snug borderline uncomfortable. After about 10 minutes the bottom of my feet were getting numb and tingly and my right ankle where I've previously broke it started hurting. I then tried 8.0D (Mako 2) and while they were more comfortable, now my left foot started getting some pain on the outside at the bottom. Because this store had no return policy and I wasn't loving either pair I decided to pass.I really want to love these skates. Any thoughts? Worth trying again?Edit for clarification - I tried each pair after baking. Edited October 30, 2015 by Albert1754 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
althoma1 574 Report post Posted October 30, 2015 (edited) A D width Nexus is like a EE in most other models. Try the EE width Makos in 7.5 and 8 and see how they feel. Edited November 4, 2015 by althoma1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albert1754 0 Report post Posted November 6, 2015 Thanks for the advice Althoma1. I went to Paragon Sports in NYC. They're having a 20% off sale for all Easton skates plus $50 gift card for purchases $500-750. Went with the 7.5EE and skated on them for the first time today. The aggressive pitch made me feel unbalanced but got better throughout the skate. Definitely felt faster than my old Nexus skates. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NiCnoK 61 Report post Posted November 6, 2015 Count me among the legion of Mako lovers. I found a new pair of ii's on ebay for around three bills and took the plunge. They just came in the mail yesterday and I took them to TH and baked them. I printed out the box-top baking instructions from page 85 of this topic and I'm glad I did, because the kid looked at them like they were written in French.I think he figured it out tho, cause once he brought them out for me they felt like heaven. Like I've read here on the forum, they were too small beforehand and afterward felt like god had crafted them specifically for my feet. I haven't had the chance to skate on them yet, but thank you ModSquad for once again putting me up on a great piece of gear that I never, ever would have given a second thought to otherwise. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sectachrome 40 Report post Posted November 6, 2015 I think I'm going to give these a good look if/when the new model comes out. I haven't been super happy with the Supreme 180's I got earlier this year and I like what I've been reading about the Mako's. I've seen some complaints about durability on the first Mako, did they resolve that for the II? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IPv6Freely 2092 Report post Posted November 7, 2015 Mostly yes, though my mako 1s have held up fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nicktsigos 12 Report post Posted November 24, 2015 Did you guys have any issues with numbness? Long story but roughly a year ago I had a pair of mako 2s but was having some issues with my feet going numb, this was around the time they had their fit guarantee. I had broken my ribs and was a little stressed about the feeling in my toes so I returned them and went with vapor x100s because I didn't have much time to mess with the fit. Fast forward to now and I'm not having a great fit in the bauers but they are the best fit I can find but the boot is breaking down and am getting close to picking Up a new pair of skates. I loved the fit of the makos just want to see if there is a method for helping with the numbness. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
syinx 139 Report post Posted November 24, 2015 Did you guys have any issues with numbness? Long story but roughly a year ago I had a pair of mako 2s but was having some issues with my feet going numb, this was around the time they had their fit guarantee. I had broken my ribs and was a little stressed about the feeling in my toes so I returned them and went with vapor x100s because I didn't have much time to mess with the fit. Fast forward to now and I'm not having a great fit in the bauers but they are the best fit I can find but the boot is breaking down and am getting close to picking Up a new pair of skates. I loved the fit of the makos just want to see if there is a method for helping with the numbness.Yeah. Don't crank the laces. Lace them snug, perhaps even just a touch loose, and then tight at the ankles for support. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
z1ggy 81 Report post Posted November 24, 2015 My feet go cold if I crank down my Mako's. I basically just tie the first 4 eyelets snug, then do the remaining ones tight, up until the very top eyelet, which I do loose enough to get good ankle dorsiflexion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IPv6Freely 2092 Report post Posted November 24, 2015 Yea i tie mine barely snug for most of it until the last 3 eyelets. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mnpucker 33 Report post Posted November 25, 2015 Sorry I have been following this thread but cannot recall anyone addressing rivets? Is anyone having issues with rivets not holding? Either premature corrosion or just pulling through the sole of the skate? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
start_today 770 Report post Posted November 25, 2015 Colin Wilson had some rivet issues the other night in Makos... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IPv6Freely 2092 Report post Posted November 25, 2015 No issues here with rivets.Colin Wilson had some rivet issues the other night in Makos...He also had Bauer holders, so that one was definitely not Easton's fault. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sparky1 29 Report post Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) I've gone to t-bolts after breaking a CXN holder.Sometime this winter I am thinking about going to TUUK edge holders just because I can easily swap them in now.here's my post on this thread on how to convert over: http://modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/61887-easton-mako-skates/?p=1020505 Edited November 25, 2015 by sparky1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mjpisat 36 Report post Posted November 27, 2015 Question. I have a Wagner heat gun with multiple temp settings. How hot to set when working out spot fitting? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anjin-san 29 Report post Posted November 27, 2015 (edited) I'd start at the lowest heat setting. Better to be safe than sorry. Keep the heat gun moving and periodically check to see if that spot has softened up. You'll feel it become really malleable. Edited November 28, 2015 by Anjin-san Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mc88 160 Report post Posted November 28, 2015 (edited) Would you happen to know what kind of shim I would need to make the LS edge holder be the same height/angle as the CXN's by chance? I like the forward angle of the CXN's, I just don't like their durability so far. Maybe I just had a bad pair or something like that.In the process of converting my old VHs over to T-nuts/Socket cap screws and stumbled across this article when trying to figure out how to top coat zinc-plated metals:http://www.galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/dissimilar-metals-in-contactIn your links, you have 3 different types of metals:zinc plated steel18-8 stainless steel316 stainless steelIn other words, your T-nuts will corrode the quickest (I remember reading somewhere that it would only stand up to about 6 months of use).Types of stainless steel:http://www.bosunsupplies.com/StainlessInfo2/I'm currently experimenting with 18-8 stainless t-nuts (which is similar to 304 stainless steel, but with a different chemical make-up) and 316 stainless screws and washers that will be primed and top-coated with an enamel. It's still way, way early too to tell how well the coating will work, but I'm giving it a solid month of use before I'd recommend it. Either way, I'd avoid zinc-plated parts. They're nearly impossible to top-coat (it's possible to prime them with a cold galvanizing compound, but top-coats are hard to come by) and has a relatively low protection against "marine-like" environments (in this case, withstanding sweat...sodium and water) Edited November 28, 2015 by mc88 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmic 178 Report post Posted November 28, 2015 (edited) In other words, your T-nuts will corrode the quickest (I remember reading somewhere that it would only stand up to about 6 months of use).What would the Broski say about that?In all seriousness though, my Mako 2s are holding up brilliantly; playing 3x/week, for almost 1 year (I keep seeing concerns of durability). To accommodate the low volume in the mid forefoot (is that what the area is called between eyelets 4-7?), I trimmed the felt:So far so good (after a few months), I got the idea from Dougie Hamilton (1:34 or so on): Edited November 28, 2015 by Cosmic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sparky1 29 Report post Posted November 28, 2015 In the process of converting my old VHs over to T-nuts/Socket cap screws and stumbled across this article when trying to figure out how to top coat zinc-plated metals:http://www.galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/dissimilar-metals-in-contactIn your links, you have 3 different types of metals:zinc plated steel18-8 stainless steel316 stainless steelIn other words, your T-nuts will corrode the quickest (I remember reading somewhere that it would only stand up to about 6 months of use).Types of stainless steel:http://www.bosunsupplies.com/StainlessInfo2/I'm currently experimenting with 18-8 stainless t-nuts (which is similar to 304 stainless steel, but with a different chemical make-up) and 316 stainless screws and washers that will be primed and top-coated with an enamel. It's still way, way early too to tell how well the coating will work, but I'm giving it a solid month of use before I'd recommend it. Either way, I'd avoid zinc-plated parts. They're nearly impossible to top-coat (it's possible to prime them with a cold galvanizing compound, but top-coats are hard to come by) and has a relatively low protection against "marine-like" environments (in this case, withstanding sweat...sodium and water)Thanks for the info!I got lazy a couple months into installing my t-bolt setup and have since stopped pulling out the footbeds.I'll take a peek at them and see how they are holding up so far. I think last time I checked, they were a little corroded, but nothing major. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mjpisat 36 Report post Posted November 29, 2015 I have volume issues in mine too. Trimming the side of the tongue really helps? What did you use to trim it?I'm so mad. Baked me be again after a year of use and created a problem area that never bothered me before on the inside of my right foot around the ankle bone.What would the Broski say about that?In all seriousness though, my Mako 2s are holding up brilliantly; playing 3x/week, for almost 1 year (I keep seeing concerns of durability). To accommodate the low volume in the mid forefoot (is that what the area is called between eyelets 4-7?), I trimmed the felt:So far so good (after a few months), I got the idea from Dougie Hamilton (1:34 or so on):https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrOJax5MSIA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites