Jump to content
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
tamtamg

Sparx Skate Sharpener - At home sharpener

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, helmet91 said:

Dumb question...

Do you think you could use a 1-1/4 radius wheel as a de facto cross grind wheel?  I have four skaters in the house, not including me... and they're regularly dinging up their blades (5/8 Fire, 1/2 and 5/8) at no fault of their own.  The rinks here aren't the best and there's plenty of blade unfriendly things in the locker room, the halls, the benches, etc.  Most times a regular four passes cleans everything up, but on occasion it looks they ran across the parking lot (slight exaggeration) and all the passes in the world won't "fix" the issue.

Would the relative "flatness" of the 1-1/4 cleanup those stubborn dings?  Or is that going to waste passes with my other rings after using the 1-1/4?  Granted I wouldn't do it very often, just in dire circumstances.

Thoughts?  I'm just spitballing here...  And please don't suggest taking the skates to a shop - hockey shops are few and far between here; with limited hours; and questionable sharpening results.  Throw in the new COVID lockdown and getting skates sharpened outside of our Sparx here at home is pretty much not going to happen.

Thanks and Happy New Year!

It's not a bad idea. Especially if you have rings you don't use. I do the same with an Fire ring I don't like. For example. I recently got some new steel so instead of doing 10 passes with my 3/4 ring. I did 4-6 passed with that old Fire ring to flatten things out then finished with my desired 3/4 hollow. I'm still doing 10 total passes. I'm just not burning thru my good ring in the process.

I wouldn't do this every time. It actually takes more passes to cut a new hollow than it does to maintain one. I find this method works well for new steel, really bad edges or a change in hollow. I find going flatter than your normal hollow works best. 

What I am unsure of is how this affects runner life. Am I removing more steel than I need to by doing this.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/20/2021 at 9:18 AM, bcboy20 said:

Hey Guys, 

ive owned a sparx for 3 years now and live it. Go through about 5-6 rings a season. Has anyone had their machine start to “skip” or have the belt “skip” or click on the return pass and is almost home. I emailed sparx and they said it either needs to be returned for work or needs to be cleaned thouroghly.  I vacuum and blow the machine out regularly.  
Has anyone taken their machine apart also ? I dont want to but might have to get down to the bottom of this and oil up a bearing or something. Thanks! 

Can you take a video of this? I had an issue like this in the past when we had Sparx machines and I disassembled the machine at one point to get a better understanding of how its assembled. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, PBH said:

Can you take a video of this? I had an issue like this in the past when we had Sparx machines and I disassembled the machine at one point to get a better understanding of how its assembled. 

Hey, I got it to stop. What I found was when I had the machine run without the glass, it seemed like it was sticky and couldn’t pull the ring back to home along the blade.  I started to use a skate guard and pushed it and it had no problem. I ended up cleaning the whole machine inside and out, then used just a tiny bit of grease on the inside along the rail that it runs on.  Moved it. Sick and forth a bit and runs perfect again now. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎12‎/‎31‎/‎2021 at 6:27 PM, stick9 said:

It's not a bad idea. Especially if you have rings you don't use. I do the same with an Fire ring I don't like. For example. I recently got some new steel so instead of doing 10 passes with my 3/4 ring. I did 4-6 passed with that old Fire ring to flatten things out then finished with my desired 3/4 hollow. I'm still doing 10 total passes. I'm just not burning thru my good ring in the process.

I wouldn't do this every time. It actually takes more passes to cut a new hollow than it does to maintain one. I find this method works well for new steel, really bad edges or a change in hollow. I find going flatter than your normal hollow works best. 

What I am unsure of is how this affects runner life. Am I removing more steel than I need to by doing this.

 

It definitely wouldn't be a regular thing.  I'd bet the 1-1/4 ring would last me a very, very long time.  I can't imagine I'd have to go this route more than once or twice a season, and that's across the board for all the skaters in the house.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How many passes to change your sharpening? I used the sharpie method and after 1 pass it was completely gone so that's unreliable IMO. I'm trying to change from 5/8 fire to 3/4 fire (more glide). I did 2 passes each skate and it actually felt waaay sharper while skating than 5/8 and even when I used 1/2 fire in the past. Lots of leg fatigue in a game. Maybe it's some crazy in between because I didn't do enough passes?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, rh71el2 said:

How many passes to change your sharpening? I used the sharpie method and after 1 pass it was completely gone so that's unreliable IMO. I'm trying to change from 5/8 fire to 3/4 fire (more glide). I did 2 passes each skate and it actually felt waaay sharper while skating than 5/8 and even when I used 1/2 fire in the past. Lots of leg fatigue in a game. Maybe it's some crazy in between because I didn't do enough passes?

I usually do 4 passes when switching hollows. 

If skated on the 3/4 Fire. Sharp is not a word I would use to describe it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Howdy,

Yes, I don't think the sharpie method works at all.  My guess is that the sparks/swarf thrown from the grinding wipe out the sharpie long before the wheels actually hits the metal there.  I've done it a few times and literally have never seen sharpie remaining regardless of the number of cycles.

I've not done any microscopic analysis, but I tend to use 6 cycles when switching hollows.

I can't come up with any reason that 5/8 Fire to 3/4 Fire should have given you more bite.  I've done that same switch and not experienced that... My experience was what you'd expect... A little less bite and a more concerted effort needed to get onto your edge with the 3/4 Fire vs. the 5/8 Fire.  I suppose maybe the 3/4 Fire ring without enough passes may have skinny-ed up the "fangs" on either side while leaving the center of the runner 'deep'?  Just a guess.  I would run more cycles and re-test.

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

3 hours ago, marka said:

I suppose maybe the 3/4 Fire ring without enough passes may have skinny-ed up the "fangs" on either side while leaving the center of the runner 'deep'?  Just a guess.  I would run more cycles and re-test.

I've done 2 more passes (total 4 each skate) and will test this afternoon.  But I've been thinking more logically about this.  If I was on 5/8, the hollow would be deeper than when I apply a new sharpening of 3/4. That 3/4 pass or two, if it doesn't reach down to the current hollow of 5/8, will effectively just make the 2 edges flatter & wider than it was. And that's why I was feeling more bite.

Edited by rh71el2
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, rh71el2 said:

How many passes to change your sharpening? I used the sharpie method and after 1 pass it was completely gone so that's unreliable IMO. I'm trying to change from 5/8 fire to 3/4 fire (more glide). I did 2 passes each skate and it actually felt waaay sharper while skating than 5/8 and even when I used 1/2 fire in the past. Lots of leg fatigue in a game. Maybe it's some crazy in between because I didn't do enough passes?

If the sharpie is gone then you are making full contact with the steel.

This however would change if going from a flatter hollow to a more aggressive hollow 3/4 FIRE -> 5/8 FIRE, for example. This is because the new hollow is deeper than the old hollow. Going in the opposite direction 5/8" FIRE -> 3/4" FIRE once the marker is gone you have removed the old hollow entirely. 

Not sure why the 3/4" FIRE felt more sharpen than the 5/8" FIRE. Maybe you rolled the edge when honing or something...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Howdy,

56 minutes ago, PBH said:

If the sharpie is gone then you are making full contact with the steel.

I've tried this enough times that until someone posts high speed video or something I'm not going to believe that this is true.  I've literally never seen sharpie left over after a cycle.

I think its WAY more likely that the sparks/swarf from the grinding is sandblasting away the sharpie long before the wheel actually grinds the steel.

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, rh71el2 said:

 

I've done 2 more passes (total 4 each skate) and will test this afternoon.  But I've been thinking more logically about this.  If I was on 5/8, the hollow would be deeper than when I apply a new sharpening of 3/4. That 3/4 pass or two, if it doesn't reach down to the current hollow of 5/8, will effectively just make the 2 edges flatter & wider than it was. And that's why I was feeling more bite.

You are right until you get to your last sentence. You should be feeling less bite when the internal angle of the edges are flatter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, marka said:

Howdy,

I've tried this enough times that until someone posts high speed video or something I'm not going to believe that this is true.  I've literally never seen sharpie left over after a cycle.

I think its WAY more likely that the sparks/swarf from the grinding is sandblasting away the sharpie long before the wheel actually grinds the steel.

Mark

If the shavings are removing the sharpie that would be an issue. Not sure what markers you use but the ProSharp marker is not as easily removed. I think their marker is more of a fast drying paint pen. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Vet88 said:

You are right until you get to your last sentence. You should be feeling less bite when the internal angle of the edges are flatter.

I do suppose that's right.  Interestingly, the 2 additional passes have made it less sharp again.  I can't quite tell a difference yet between this 3/4 and 5/8 I had been used to.  At least not after 1 [coaching] skate.

Bottom line - it takes 4 passes or more to change a hollow going shallower.  2 doesn't cut it.

Edited by rh71el2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, rh71el2 said:

I do suppose that's right.  Interestingly, the 2 additional passes have made it less sharp again.  I can't quite tell a difference yet between this 3/4 and 5/8 I had been used to.  At least not after 1 [coaching] skate.

Bottom line - it takes 4 passes or more to change a hollow going shallower.  2 doesn't cut it.

You’re going from 10/16” to 12/16”, a difference of two steps. I always considered 2 passes okay for 7/16” to 8/16” and back. I guess if we knew how much metal was removed on one pass, we could calculate the precise minimum number of passes required. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Leif said:

You’re going from 10/16” to 12/16”, a difference of two steps. I always considered 2 passes okay for 7/16” to 8/16” and back. I guess if we knew how much metal was removed on one pass, we could calculate the precise minimum number of passes required. 

We can easily figure that out by measuring the height of the runner and see how many passes it takes to cut it down say a full 1/2 inch.  Volunteers?  😄

Edited by rh71el2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, rh71el2 said:

We can easily figure that out by measuring the height of the runner and see how many passes it takes to cut it down say a full 1/2 inch.  Volunteers?  😄

Just use a digital micrometer and after once pass you'll know. Multiple such by the number of passes. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/20/2021 at 12:18 PM, bcboy20 said:

Hey Guys, 

ive owned a sparx for 3 years now and live it. Go through about 5-6 rings a season. Has anyone had their machine start to “skip” or have the belt “skip” or click on the return pass and is almost home. I emailed sparx and they said it either needs to be returned for work or needs to be cleaned thouroghly.  I vacuum and blow the machine out regularly.  
Has anyone taken their machine apart also ? I dont want to but might have to get down to the bottom of this and oil up a bearing or something. Thanks! 

Having the same issue developing lately with about the same ownership timeframe. I did not clean it much though, so that's on me. After a thorough cleaning, it seems it has gotten a lot better. Mine stuttered and stopped to the point of getting the 3 6 10 error. I found that there was a lot of really hidden dust up above the grinding ring in the area the spring connects to. Must be gunking up some sensor or something.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...