Slate
Blackcurrant
Watermelon
Strawberry
Orange
Banana
Apple
Emerald
Chocolate
Marble
Slate
Blackcurrant
Watermelon
Strawberry
Orange
Banana
Apple
Emerald
Chocolate
Marble
-
Content Count
968 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
16 -
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Downloads
Gallery
Store
MSH News and Articles
Everything posted by Larry54
-
Just to add to krisdrum's post, use truss head screws because they have a bigger diameter head so you don't need to use washers.
-
If I'm not mistaken, there's no rocker on that chassis so with 74 74 80 80 the result would be like I described in my other post. Because of geometry wheels 2 and 4 would be .5mm from the ground, or wheels 1 and 2 would be 1mm from the ground depending if your weight is on your toes or on your heels. It's not much but it's not ideal. Of course your weight would squash the wheels closing those gaps but the wheels would have uneven pressure on the court.
-
If the chassis is designed to have the 4 wheels touching the ground with 76 76 80 80, then wheel 2 (1 being the front wheel) won't touch the ground with 74 74 80 80 wheels. And the front and back wheels will never touch the ground at the same time. What chassis is it?
-
I also wonder about the validity of matching old profiles unless there is a way to record that banana-ed profile so you can re-apply it to new steel or to a profile refresh later on. Otherwise, the matched banana profile gets corrupted even more with further sharpening, and the player adjusts his muscle memory to it so on the next profile-copying it gets even more banana-ed, etc. A player should find his profile and stick to it even if it takes a bit of re-adjusting to it when it gets reset.
-
The rating of the power adapter won't tell you how much power the machine consumes. It will be rated higher than the machine so it can supply the required amount. As long as the adapter supplies 24VDC at the required current (and thus power), it could be a 1000000000W adapter and it would do the job as long as it isn't rated lower than the machine. And if you look at the label on the machine in that same picture, you can see that it says Ptot:30W. It may however be more of an average power rating and the adapter is oversized to handle current surges like when starting up the machine.
- 109 replies
-
- as 2001
- skatepal pro 3
- (and 5 more)
-
Did you gain some weight during the layoff?
-
24v x 1.2A = 28.8W. That can be rounded off to 30W so I assume it's correct. Whether it's mechanically powerful enough for quality sharpening is beyond me.
- 109 replies
-
- as 2001
- skatepal pro 3
- (and 5 more)
-
I tried their Thin Sport model once and even after heat molding they had too much arch support for my flat feet. I imagine they might do the trick if you have high arches.
-
True skate owners - how often do your rivets loosen?
Larry54 replied to Westside's topic in Ice Hockey Equipment
Those are not the original holders, right? -
learning hockey at an advanced age
Larry54 replied to Amazinmets73's topic in General Hockey Discussions
Awesome! In a few years you managed to reach a higher level of skating technique than many players who have been playing all their lives. I assume you're practicing those exercises on the other foot, too. 😉 -
I had this happen to the matte grip finish on some old BASE sticks. IIRC I used Krud Kutter with a small plastic brush to wash off the whole grip finish. I ended up with a non-grip finish because there was no way to keep the grip finish without stickiness. It didn't affect the graphics on the sticks.
-
Ellipse Profiles – The next revolution in skate profiling?
Larry54 replied to VegasHockey's topic in Ice Hockey Equipment
FWIW, I've tried Speedplates with my VH skates and the arch/instep really got in the way since the boot itself had enough arch/instep for my feet. I guess the Speedplates might be good if your feet have a higher arch/instep than what's built into the boot. But my reason for trying Speedplates was to get a bit of metatarsal arch support that Graf/SIDAS molded footbeds provided on my previous pairs of skates. I just ended up using Specialized Body Geometry cycling footbeds for their metatarsal button, and they come in 3 different instep heights of which I chose the lowest. -
I think there would have to be a way to get a scan of the foot while supporting the body weight but with even pressure on the sole unlike a flat surface. When making Graf/Sidas heat-molded footbeds, the casting process does that. I remember how great those footbeds felt. If it could somehow be incorporated into the scanning, I think it would produce the best representation of the foot under load.
-
They had this video for the custom skate. I don't know if it applies to the TF-7.
-
According to this video at 2:18, he states that they "add spots" when they build the mold. I know they did that to the sides of the carbon toecaps on my first VH skates 7-8 years ago to accomodate for some bumps on my big toes. I assume they do something similar for the heel.
-
While I didn't have pain in the arch, I did feel pressure on the instep because of my somewhat flat feet. I modified the red inserts like in the video. But I also noticed that the insoles had a bit of a built-in arch or instep. I sanded that down to end up with a relatively flat insole. It made them feel much better. If you don't want to sand down the arches, you could try replacing them with Elite Hockey insoles which have no arch and are very inexpensive.
-
Call me cynical, but maybe manufacturers feel that it's preferable not to disclose that information because then some people would start making their own measurements according to those parameters and reveal how much error there was in the flex ratings. Manufacturers don't really have anything to gain from it.
-
In a nutshell, if you have a 66"/85flex stick and a 60"/85flex stick, and cut both to 58" they will feel the same.
-
I'm pretty similar but I skip the top 2 eyelets and lace them moderately and evenly tight from top (3rd eyelet) to bottom.
-
The idea of having the longer wear of black steel is nice in theory. But even with regular Step steel, I very rarely reach a point where I need a sharpening because of regular wear. Before reaching that point, there always occurs some edge damage from playing which requires sharpening. And while black steel wears longer, I don't think it's much less susceptible to damage. So, to me the longer wear of black steel isn't worth the extra expense.
-
Sock liners. https://foxsox.com/collections/mens-liners/products/wick-dryr-alturas-ultra-lightweight-crew-liner?variant=31529246294059
-
Just an observation, in this picture Orr's top 3 eyelets (if there isn't a 4th under the tape) are unlaced but his tendon guards and tongues are taped against his upper ankle. 🤔
-
I remember having those eyelets with the small thin laces on the tendon guards. They added no support whatsoever. I think their purpose was to keep the tendon guard against the tendon. And with all this talk about maintaining lateral support while having forward flex, one could argue that lateral support is not that necessay if you have proper skating technique, though it might still be good to limit lateral movement just enough to prevent injury. 🤔
-
To keep busy while in covid confinement, I learned to use Shotcut video editor and made a video of "myselves". There's even a small hockey reference in it.