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5ish years ago, CCM released a composite version of the Titan 2020. Obviously not as cool as finding an orignal wood one, but since it’s being cast in resin anway, it might work. And we won’t tell anyone you’re using a fake repress version.

- 4 roll gloves in general. I love the way these look, but they are always too loose - Low kick sticks. Probably due more to my self taught mediocre shooting motion, but I can’t get low kicks to consistently flex/shoot the way I want. - Bauer Vapor XXX bag. SIIIIIIIICK looking bag (as far as bag aesthetics go). Awesome gray/black/red colors. Love the pocket design and location of everything. Bought one online when they came out and it’s GINORMOUS. I don’t remember if they had size options at that time, but I can fit two sets of player equipment in it. It lives in my basement and holds old equipment that we keep because hoarding.

Early Mission skates had stiffness ratings on them, but similar problem in that it was done without much context, so it was impassible to compare across brands. A few years ago, didn’t Graf try to offer skates with the same designs and features but varying stiffnesses? Its always been odd to me that if you want some of the fancy upgrades like flexible tendon guards or injected lacing, you also have to buy the stiffest skate. .....But what if the stiffest skate doesn’t benefit you?

Not doubting you’re playing experience at all, just pontificating on differences.... I feel like when I play higher levels of hockey, shots from the point are always coming in low. People can very reliably be in front of the net and not worry about taking one in the stomach or chest or face. And when I play at lower levels, dudes are just ripping high shots from wherever without regard to anyone’s safety or accuracy or whether that corner shot is actually going to miss high and rim around and be a breakout for the other team.

Did flipping the end help? AK27s were standard shafts, so if one side is bigger, aim there. Yeah, too many shafts had symmetrical graphics like that. Easy to mix up the top and bottom.

Do you still have the ls2 holders in the one100s? People complain that the steel can feel loose in the Edge holders after a few years, but if you have the ls2, I’d think you’d be ok unless you’ve put some sort of above and beyond stress on them. Should be able to find some inexpensive Step steel for the ls2, since not many people use that.

As much as people complain about the aesthetics of modern skates, the giant gold print on those 707s is worse than almost anything anyone is putting out now.

I felt like warrior always had the tightest shafts. I’d have to wipe a lot of glue off of hossels to make them fit. (RIP Original Dolomite shaft...a true legend) Maaaaaaaaybe silly question, but are you putting it in the right end? I havent handled a warrior int shaft in a while. If you had it flipped and were putting it in the top, are the shaft dimensions smaller such that the top is essentially a tapered size?

I’m using some elite laces that are kind of ovular- https://www.inlinewarehouse.com/Elite_ProSeries_Premium_Wide_Hockey_Skate_Laces_Unwaxed/descpage-EWIDE.html They are ok. Been using them probably two or three months. They still twist the way other laces do. Before this, I used waxed for the last 10-15 years. These feel like they hold as well.

A) What’s your reasoning for changing curves? Sounds like you almost paid for a custom stick with the Kane curve, and don’t even like it. Are you just wanting to try new stuff? If you’re just looking to try new curves in a mid kick stick, couldn’t you save $150 and just buy a pro stock? Paying for custom is an expensive route if you don’t even know what you want B) If you don’t do well with the p92 (1st post) why consider getting it on a custom stick (2nd post)? Its your money and spend it how you want, but it kinda sounds like you read a whole bunch about curve options, and now you’re getting something just because it’s there, regardless if it suites you.

The skates might feel “off” because of a difference in pitch between the holders, and different pitch of the skate itself, but you can address that with shims and/or profiling. But, it’s not like you’d do irreparable harm or they are somehow not compatible.

Elbows are tricky because height and arm size don’t always line up. If you have longer, thinner arms, you may need a medium circumference but large length, depending on where you like things to sit. Or large circumference and medium length. I’m 6’2”, and historically wear a medium, because it’s what best fist the circumference of my forearm. Currently in a medium original Reebok 10k. The past few years, when I try things on, I’ve felt better in a large (for Tacks, Vapors, Supremes, and Warriors), as I feel like I need the extra volume around my elbow. Even though my pads are old and I’m 8-10 years older than when I bought them, I don’t think my arms have really changed. To me, it feels like the space your elbow sits into is shallower on recent elbow. —- Total aside.... I feel like elbow pads are the most annoying, least sexy thing to buy. They are hard to size and boring to try on, and if you do it right, don’t notice them at all when you get new ones. You can visually see new pants and gloves and helmet, and they let other players know you are awesome. New sticks allow you to rip shots and make buttery toedrags. New skates change your whole game up and down the ice. New elbow pads...immediately go in the background.

Sorry to be Wikipedia about this, but can you verify your source for us?

What curve do you currently use, and what do you like and not like about it?

Percentage-wise, what’s another $400 on top of a new house? Count it as part of the moving costs. New skates are less expensive than ankle surgery if you break your leg using a skate that is falling apart, and the long term health benefits of exercise from hockey are immeasurable. Honestly, I don’t know if you can afford to not get new skates.

Part of the problem with “skates should fit X sizes down from your street shoe” is that we can’t know how people’s street shoes fit them. Given the wild sizing inaccuracies you see in hockey skates, I can’t imagine the discrepancies in shoes, seeing as they are softer and more forgiving and even easier to wear too large or small.

What don’t you like? It doesn’t seem “big” like other other helmets people don’t like.

I have one of the original 5.2 pros in my basement, which is pretty normal basement temp. - Its grip feels the same as when I bought it, so I’d think it’s more the heat than the time. - I wish the blade wasn’t shot, it was one of my favorite sticks. (I had a brand new 5.2 and brand new nexus 8000 stolen from a rink when I left them there after a game. Every True stick thread is total trigger warning.)

Here’s a link the the VA Tech Helmet study thread, so people can rehash the same debate over and over in that thread, rather than this one.

Welcome back to the game! Another vote for the p88. There’s really only 3 curves widely available at retail now on most sticks- p28, p92, p88, unless you’re buying the $300 flagship stick. The other two curves are hellishly open, compared to what you’re used to. If you go with prostock patterns or curves being phased out, you end up chasing them. Whatever stick your trying, start with stuff that initially retailed about $150 or more. You can find stuff on sale or prostocks for cheaper than that. But, if your initial one-piece experience is with a retail $75 stick, it’s going to have some combination of poor blade feel and/or poor balance.

Feels like you would be wasting the moldability and fit of the Trues by not baking them. They’ll fit better and feel better if you bake them. When baking skates was first a thing, it helped break-in the skate, where traditionally you had to wear skates for hours and hours to make the more comfortable and form to your feet. You would have people arguing that if you don’t bake them, you’ll extend the life of the skate. But, with modern materials, that’s no longer the true at all. Especially on other forums *cough reddit cough*, you’ll see bad, outdated advice that baking skates will decrease their lifespan, or if you just toughen up and skate hard in them, you’ll break them in in some more desirable fashion. You have nothing but to gain by baking them!

Obvious advice, but if you can, try on a bunch of of 14”s. Where that extra inch is added and measured and how it feels can change between models. If you wanna get nuts, here’s a thread where people talk about cutting the bottom off of shin guards to address the same problem you are having.

I’d worry about heating and bending shin guards. If the plastic gets weak, a lucky shot could break the plastic and break your shin, which will cost a lot more than buying new shins trying to sell off the old ones. Worst case scenario, but....

What do you mean by “space between inside and outside eyelets?

For older stuff like this, you can check out the catalogue collection on this site. Also, I think Ice Warehouse typically has good descriptions of stuff, so you can google “icewarehouse 16K shinguards” and see their YouTube review and read the archived webpage.