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Your friends should be willing to pay you you to sharpen their skates, especially if it’s better than what they are getting in a shop. If the free beer doesn’t cover the cost of the rings, you explain your costs and time to them and ask them for some money. If they are just using you because you got a new toy, then they aren’t really your friends.

Has anyone skates in both the s29 and 2s? I’m kinda torn between them. I have the exact opposite worries in each- that the s29 will be too soft and break down quickly, and that the s2 will be too stiff. I tried them both on in the store, but I’m not good at translating that to how they’ll feel on the ice. Mid level adult league player, 4 times a week. I have 190s (not the s190, the MX3 line) now, so the 2s seems like the obvious choice and I’m overthinking. I know the 190 and 2s both have Curve composite, but it seems like there’s different types of Curve. I’ll replace the steel with Step, so the garbage ls1 isn’t an issue.

Would love to be in the CCM meeting where they complain that their company put out a stick with holes in it 10 years ago, and everyone thought it was a joke, but now Baauer does it and suddenly it’s cool and cutting edge.

Will he let you try on the size 9 1s and skate a game in them to see how you feel? A skate that’s too big opens up another whole can of worms.

What wheel set up did you have for inline? Going from playing inline all my life to ice, I felt like a shorter profile, 9’, helped me be more comfortable on the ice, because less blade was touching at a given moment. I don’t rememberer what I had on my inline chassis, but I tended toward slightly smaller wheels on the front for a more “rockered” feel.

Are the 2S all THAT stiff? Or, are you saying that they are stiffer than a broken in/broken down MX3?

I started doing just a width-of-tape knob last spring or so, and it’s been great (and by great I mean it’s fine and I don’t think about it.) Prior to that, when I taped a handle, I kept toying with different options of rubbing it with a puck, wax, melting the wax, and baby powder, and it would always be too grippy or not grippy enough. At some point I wondered why I was doing all that work to never quite be satisfied, when everything my heart wanted was already right in front of me underneath that tape. And I haven’t looked back since! (I do miss being able to tape my handle with some stupid bright neon color because I’m secretly 12 years old.)

QXT is more or less the QX3 with different graphics. I don’t have them in front of me, but I think the QX3 has raised grip, and QXT doesn’t. Same weight and feel with the minimus 600 carbon. Those are my favorite stick ever for price/value.

With the rockers on both blades, i feel like the lies on both of those are not as different as reading about them might imply. Cutting the p88 shorter would help playing closer to the body. Or, just find stick handling drills to practice that help with puck control closer to the body.

Check out the discussion in the ProSharp Project Section. Lots of reviews and discussion on people dialing in various quad profile radiuses (radii?). http://modsquadhockey.com/forums/forum/191-the-prosharp-project/ And, if you search “quad” in the equipment forum, you get a lot of returns. Definitely a ton of info and discussion on this board about it.

pm9 and Drury used to be the cool kid curves, and people with big banana curves got busted on. Now everyone loves giant toe curves. The world is changing and I am old and alone. No country for old curves.

Looks like Bauer has it on the 2N Pro and Vapor Flylite. Are there plans to quit producing it? Warrior has the W01 on the DX as well.

...seems like it might be hard to “finally decide which stick is best” for you, if you're buying something in the wrong flex and curve. Why not just wait and buy a stick in your parameters, rather than forcing the extra variables?

In the one piece shorts, depending on how/where the cup is situated, I wonder if it would get in the way of the Kinesiology wrap. Same with wearing the core shorts over your jock. Seems like you’d want the core shorts/KT wrap as close to your body as possible, and the cup/ compression shorts over top of that. That way the the KT is supporting the muscles, not being wrapped over the cup, which will deform the tension/support.

“If you can dangle a wrench, you can dangle a puck!”

Wanted to top this thread, and maybe move the discussion out of the Flare thread, since it’s well away from that brand of steel. What can I look at at home to see if steel is loose in Edge holders? My vices are both vertically mounted, so I can’t hold hold horizontally by the steel. Is there a feeling/experience I can look for on the ice that might point to loose steel? I’ll ask my sharpener next time I’m there, but it helps me to see things with my own eyes.

Relativity. Ever notice how slowly time passes when you’re in the penalty box?

Hasn’t Ribcore been under CCM branding for like 4 seasons now? 🧐

Chars and Hronek, so one Slovak and one Czech. I thought maybe it would be like how T-Blades were only used by German players.

A few questions: Do the Tacks fit? You mentioned buying them, and saying the Vapors are too wide, but not how you feel about the Tacks. You said the Tacks are R...a quick google tells me that there is a size R between D and E, but I’ve never seen retail skates that are anything but D or EE is the USA. Are they definitely R? And, if so, what country did you buy them in? If the EE Vapors were too wide, did you try D Vapors? To me, that seems like the logical starting place. — When going from inline to ice, you don’t really need anything special in the skates to compensate. You want the best fitting skate for both. You’ll probably end up playing with the profile and hollow of the steel to figure out to feel best on the ice for your skating style.

Well, that’s an even better point.

Or it’s got the FT3 graphics to drum up hype. We can’t know the build unless someone posts the code from the stick. Anything else is just speculation or hearsay. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Appreciate the input, but I’d rather have shims because it’s more consistent, and doesn’t run the risk of change with sharpening. I kind of buried that in the middle, but would prefer shims.

Are there any resources that compare pitch between current popular holders? Edge, Speedblade XS, Shift, any others I’m missing? My previous two skates were Mako M8s with CXN, and Vapors x800 with edge holders. Currently in a pair of Supreme 190s with edge holders. I liked the more “forward lean” of Vapors and Makos. Trying to figure out how to replicate that in my current skates, preferably with shins as opposed to profiling. Blade profile and hollow was the same across all three. And, to add another wrinkle, I’ve noiced my left holder clicking, and I think I’d like a new holder, maybe the Shift, since I can get it with Step steel. A) if I leave the Edge on, what size shim do I need to be closer to the pitch of Vapors and Makos? (Which, of course are different pitches on their own and not the same, I just want to get more in that neighborhood.) B) Does the True Shift holder have a more aggressive pitch than the Edge? If so, how much? Thanks!

At the risk of sounding stodgy and condescending...pick literally any blade you want, and practice with it. Since you're used to the p28, and it checks almost all, if not all, of your requirements, stick with that and make it do what you want. If you change curves, that alone might improve some aspect of your game, but other aspects will suffer. From your descriptions, it sounds like you just need to go to stick time and practice wrist shots and passing accuracy.